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Blog entry by RichClark posted 03-01-2009 10:53 PM 874 reads 0 times favorited 2 comments Add to Favorites Watch

OK Cherry is ready to finish (Notice pores are white)

Cherry Filled

Here it is done (You can still see the filler but I was trying to learn how far to go sanding
cherry  Finished

A look at the walnut before its filled
Walnut Pores

Finished and rubbed out with OOO Steel wool to get a nice satin look
Walnut Finished

-- Duct Tape is the Force! It has a light side and a dark side and it Binds the Universe together!



2 comments so far

View BigBard's profile

BigBard

114 posts in 2881 days


#1 posted 03-02-2009 04:31 AM

Very nice, what did you use on the cherry?

-- Carolina Panther fan!

View RichClark's profile

RichClark

157 posts in 2897 days


#2 posted 03-02-2009 04:19 PM

The cherry was sanded with 220 then I filled it with Bhelen’s Natural water based wood filler (usually you dye this with tints, to match the darkest or a bit darker then the darkest color in the wood). I sanded with 320 until it looked filled with a raking light
across it. You may have to do this step again if your not happy.. Wait a few hours before you do so you are not soaking the wood.
Then that is 2 “reps” of laying down a base with just the cheese cloth until it becomes tacky , recharging the cloth and placing it into your linen piece (smoothing with the grain) and as it gets tacky, you add a drop of olive oil and then swirl in small circles until it starts sticking again then you want to go back to long with the grain strokes. (that is one rep).. Repeat – being careful to be gentle as you start out and go light. Once you happy with the finish, Id level it with blocked 1200 and do one more rep.

You then “flash off” the oil. You can use straight DNA charging your cheese cloth with it and then place that in the linen. Twist the linen until the DNA beads out then back it off. (not a lot is better then too much, you can melt thru your work this way) then with the lightest touch with the grain you pad off the oil (this can take a long time if you used to much, charge the cloth squeeze out most, if you get to much on stop and open the cloth and wave it around a bit, then put it into the linen. ) as this dires out you should begin to press harder and harder and keep going with the grain until the pad is dry. Then you start this step it looks like you have screwed up the finish! Keep going and as the pad dries out press harder and harder until its dry and your finish is back!

You can “cheat” by using a Petroleum Distillate like Naptha, Or Ive heard of using Kingsford charcoal lighter fluid (its cheap) you just need a little bit on a paper towel to remove then dry the surface. (this is not going to “FLATTEN” nor help level the surface as the DNA does since with DNA your pushing the finish around and pressing it into the grain. But if you put down alot of shellac you can use this cheat if you leveled well with 1200 after every 2-3 rep. I have never needed to do more then 2-3 to get a really nice finish. (That is as far as I went with the Cherry) Last nights class was on finishing the finish and Ill post on that soon as I get the stuff I needed (the instructor likes to show a lot of alternatives and let us buy what we can locally, So Ill experiment and once I am happy Ill post about it.

In the mean time -

If you want a satin 000/0000 steel wool and a clear or near match tinted and with just a bit of the paste for a lubercant rub it gently with the grain use a raking light to check the edges and corners and your progress. Once ya have it where you want it you can use a clean cloth and a spritz of water to clean it up and your done.

If you want to go for an even better shine (like glass) you finish that with some automotive swirl remover, There are alot of alternatives here, and both a mechanical and hand method that were demonstrated last night.

-- Duct Tape is the Force! It has a light side and a dark side and it Binds the Universe together!

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