This is a project I’ve been wanting to build for some time and I finally just knuckled down and built it. The plans are from woodsmithshop.com. I wanted to change up the look somewhat from the plain look that the plans depicted.

The case is made from maple plywood and poplar edge trim. The drawer boxes are made from pre finished maple 1/2” plywood and mounted with 16” blum full extension drawer slides.

The drawer fronts are made from poplar with walnut trim strips and a 45 deg. bevel around the perimeter of each drawer front.

I added a removable shelf to the top also made from maple plywood and poplar trim and I carried over the walnut trim & beveled the top & bottom of the front trim.

The case is stained with 3 coats of Minwax Gunstock stain until I got it dark it enough and then applied 4 coats of Minwax wipe on poly. The drawer fronts and shelf I left natural and finished with clear poly so they stood out from the case.

Thanks for looking!

This is a fretwork heart box I made for my wife’s Valentine’s day present. It’s made from a modified plans from Creative Woodworks & Crafts magazine. The lid and base are Walnut and the body of the box is Maple. The fretwork is filled with Polymer clay then cured in the oven. I finished the box with 4 coats of Minwax Polyacrylic gloss spray. See my blog for how I built it. http://www.thepatriotwoodworker.com/profiles/blogs/valentines-fretwork-heart-box-fretwork-filled-with-poleymer-clay

I’ve been working on these for awhile and finally getting the time to finish them.

Both Jewelry boxes are made with Mahogany for the case and lid frame, walnut splines for the corner joints, Lace wood veneer and banding around the Lace wood for the lid. the finish is General Finishes clear sealer and 4 coats of clear matte wipe on poly then 4 coats of hand rubbed wax. The bottom is covered with red velvet. The dividers are made from Maple that where Ebonized with India ink. Thanks for looking, and comments welcomed!

This is a design I found on IAP. A gentleman with the handle of “FireWhatFire” was kind enough to provide a blog for those that wished to try it out.

My rendition is made from segments of Paduk, Rose wood and Aluminium mounted on a Craft USA Artisan Aero 10K gold & chrome kit. The finish is 10 coats of CA. Building the blank didn’t take very long but the turning was very time consuming. I had 2 blowouts during turning and repaired them. Next time I will use wood that has greater contrast with each other and I’ll use a less porous wood than paduk.

Thanks for viewing and comments and critiques welcome!

These are a couple of pens I turned. The first is an acrylic floral pen with a Wall Street II Elegant black titanium & platinum that I turned for my daughter while she was here visiting while my wife undergoes Kimo treatments. The second one is an acrylic MADREPERLATO-CHERRY RED blank from Exotic Blanks with a Craft USA Artisan Rollerball that I turned for myself. Thanks for viewing. All comments welcome.

This board is made from Hard Maple for the weave, Cherry for the contrast strips for the weave pieces and Purple Heart for the background. I was going to assemble it into a square but I didn’t like it that way so I re-arranged the pieces into a rectangle. The finished dimension is 19” X 14” X 1 9/16” thick. The weave pieces are made from hard maple stock that’s 1” wide X 24” length. I then ripped cherry stock into 3/16” thick X 24” length X a little greater than desired board thickness. I then laminated the cherry strips to the side edges of the maple. I then ran the laminated assembly through the drum sander until I had achieved the board thickness + 1/8”. I then ripped 1/16” off each cherry strip to obtain a finished width of 1 1/4” I then cross cut the assembly into 3 3/4” length pieces. I drum sanded the Purple Heart to the same thickness as the weave pieces. I then ripped my Purple Heart stock to 1 1/4” width X 24”and then cross cut them into 1 1/4” blocks. I then dry fit all pieces and if there were any gaps I lightly trimmed to close any gaps. Glued all the pieces then after cured ran the board through the drum sander until both surfaces were true. I then sanded sides and both faces with my ROS starting at 100 grit through to 320 grit until the board was glass smooth. The finish is General salad bowl finish mixed with mineral spirits at 40% x 60%. I’ll be applying 3 more coats over the next few days. This board was inspired by Degoose AKA Lazy Larry who provides excellent instructions for this pattern.
http://lumberjocks.com/degoose/blog/series/4167 .
Thanks Larry I hope I did your pattern justice!
Thanks for viewing!

A month or so ago I built a miter saw station from plans from www.woodsmith.com. The station is great and I’ve used it for several projects but the only problem with it is it has no dust collection so I set out to remedy that situation. The collector is made from 1/2 Maple cabinet grade plywood and a 4” port for my DC hose, It attaches to the saw base with star knobs and “T” nuts. The collector hood is slotted for easy removal and installation from the saw base. I tried to reduce as much weight from the hood as possible for easy transport and it came out very light. I also had some clearance issues I had to deal with both for the saw for full range of angles and clearance between the hood and the wall which is why I have the port attached to the bottom. All in all it came out very well and captures 90% of the sawdust exiting the saw. Thanks for viewing!

This is a great project from Woodsmith Shop Plans which are free by the way. It’s very straight forward and can be built from common construction grade lumber. Its made from 1/2” plywood, Douglas Fir 2” X 4” X 8’ & 2” x 6” x 8” lumber, T TRACK, 2” X 2” X 1/” X 6’ aluminium angle and hardware.

I used cabinet grade maple plywood for the support bases for the fence and the saw and I used poplar for the fence faces and the center guide. The base uses I beam construction with a guide strip that the supports are keyed to and allows you to slide the supports and saw to varying positions depending what your cutting. The fence is made from Poplar and aluminum angle that makes up 2 3’ fences. It is very accurate since the supports are keyed to the center guide and the fence is keyed into the support clocks. When not in use you can build a wall mounted rack or you can remove the saw and stow the fence and store it on a french cleat.

I’ve had the miter saw for many years I just couldn’t justify the expense of the factory made saw platforms and I’ve seen several shop made platforms that just didn’t ring my bell for one reason or other until I saw the episode from Woodsmith shop when they built this station.

My wife and I are getting ready to build a shed and I want a quality built shed plus I’m tired of using the old standby folding table so I convinced the wife I needed a miter saw station. You can go to www.woodsmithshop.com and see the plans that you can download for free. A truly great site. See my blog at http://www.thepatriotwoodworker.com/profiles/blogs/portable-miter-saw-station-from-woodsmith-shop-plans

The plans called out for a hard board key recessed into the stop block but because of wear and the possibility of swelling of the hardboard if it gets wet I used 1/4” aluminum and epoxied it into the block. I also drilled shallow holes into the block grove and the aluminum key to give the epoxy some teeth to hold the key in place. The plans also called for attaching the self adhesive tapes to the top of the fences but to prevent the tapes from lifting during everyday use I cut a shallow recess in the top of both fences to protect the edges of the measuring tapes

The fences are registered in slots cut into the supports and non skid tape is in the slots which keeps the fences from moving when clamping them down. After squaring the saw I added the measuring tapes and this project is complete. It cuts square and is accurate and this is something I’ve needed for a long time. I can now cross cut wood without having to use the table saw sled and make repetitive cuts with the stop block.

Questions and comments are always welcome. Thanks for viewing!

I’ve been meaning to build this for some time but just hadn’t gotten around to it. I was forever having to look around for my dust pan, fox tail, rags, etc. The other problem was trying to cut paper with a utility knife. This solves these problems. It’s made with 5/8” & 3/4” shop grade maple plywood and Birch edge banding, piece of 1 1/4” angle iron for the paper cutter & then painted to match the other cabinets in the shop, mounted with a french cleat with pegs on each end for hanging up the push broom. It’s nothing spectacular but a worthwhile project. Thanks for viewing!

I constructed this from plans found in Wood magazine May 2011. I made a few changes. Instead of just a drilled hole in the arm pivot I used bushings which gives the brass shaft a bearing surface which cuts down on friction and allows for further distance when launching the peanut. I also waxed the bed to reduce friction after finishing the assembly with Danish Oil. Instead of knots I used loops in the string that is seized with rod building thread which make for a cleaner look. I can launch a peanut in the shell approx 20 – 25 feet.
Thanks for viewing!

This project is from a book I bought a few months ago The Best of Scroll Saw Magazine Creating Wooden Boxes Published by Fox Chapel Publishing.
The body is cut from a solid block of Walnut, the bottom & lid is Maple. The flat & wavy ribbons are laminated from Purple heart & Cherry then cut out on the scroll saw. The ribbon bows are laminated Cherry, Purple heart & maple then cut on the scroll saw. Finished with Danish Oil.
Thanks for viewing.

This is a Jewelry Box I made for my wife. It’s made from curly maple. The main body is dyed with a liquid dye mix and the sides are dyed with India Ink then 6 coats of lacquer and then waxed. The plans are from www.woodsmithshop.com. Thanks for viewing.

This is a Potpourri Box I made for my wife. This is a free pattern from www.scrollsawworkshop.com provided by Steve Good. It’s made from Walnut & Hard Maple and 2 rare earth magnets to keep the lid closed. Finished with 4 coats of danish oil. It was a lot of fun and it’s addictive.Thanks for viewing.

These are for two ladies that helped me when my wife was in the hospital. The boards are end grain, with hard maple & walnut and are 10.5” X 12”. Finished with 3 coats of mineral oil & 2 coats of mineral oil and bees wax. Thanks for viewing!

This is from the same process as the last board I built. I had to make it 1” thick as I was limited by the amount of material I had on hand so I had to cut the blocks a little thinner. The outer dimension is 11” X 18”. It’s made from Walnut, Maple & Cherry. Thanks for viewing!

This is my first project with my new scroll saw. It’s a simple project but it was fun to do. It’s a free pattern from Wood Magazine.

Here is my rendition of the 3D cutting Board originated by SPalm. It’s made with Walnut, Hard Maple & Cherry. For details on the construction of the board including the jigs that I built for the assembly of this board go to: http://lumberjocks.com/RetiredCoastie/blog/27568

I’d like to thank SPALM and CALGARYGEOFF for their informative posts, blogs and and assistance in this project of which made this project possible! All comments welcome and if I can assist anyone in this undertaking please let me know and I will help where I can. Thanks for viewing!

A few months back I bought the Incra LS Positioner with the table, insert and a leg set with the intention of mounting the table in a cabinet with dust collection and storage. Here’s my finished product. The base cabinet is 3/4” maple plywood with popular face frame. The drawers are Baltic birch plywood with poplar drawer fronts mounted on full extension ball bearing guides. Double locking casters all around. The template storage organiser is made from two sheets of synthetic cutting board material and machined with 52 individual slots and the top is covered with poly carbonate then mounted in the top drawer. Rockler safety switch mounted on the side and a 4” dust port and a vented door on the front of the router compartment. I applied 2 coats of General Finishes Seal A Cell and 3 coats of semi gloss Oil & Urethane. The top is attached through 6 corner blocks, weather stripping between the top and the cabinet structure and secured with just enough pressure to slightly compress the weather stripping. Thanks for viewing!

This is the 2nd pen I turned today. It’s a Stars & Stripes laser pen blank with a black titanium Jr. Gents II pen kit. The stars and stripes are a real pain in the butt to glue into place, I’m glad they have extra stars in the kit. This is a pen I turned for my son. Thanks for looking!

Almost a month ago ScrapArt sent me some wood blanks in exchange for a cigar pen. well here it is. It’s a black titanium cigar pen kit. ScrapArt I hope you like it!