I don’t recommend that you do a larger resaw for the top of your table. While doing this gives you the option to book-match figure, that invites two problems. One, the grain direction on a book matched table top reverses across the joint making the smoothing operation a more more careful process. Two, resawn stock always moves…no matter how dry it is, it is always more moist on the inside of a board than on the outside. As it equalizes it moves. This requires you to either re-saw your stock early in the project and let those components rest while you work on other parts (what I do), or to resaw, square and cut joints all in one day before the wood has a chance to move (a serious gamble and not a feasible option for a table top).
However the likelihood is you will have to resaw a board at some point (especially when you start building drawers). Since I ran into the need to do this for the stretchers in my desk (I only have the one slab of wood to work with) I think this is a good time to show you how to do it.
Careful layout is key to a good resaw, a deep scribe line and possibly a small knife cut along your layout line make a huge difference in starting your saw. If I am working with rough stock, or if I have to resaw a board other than in half this is what I do. If I am working with nearly dimensioned stock I can cheat a bit and use a marking guage to make a V groove for me (simply mark the center-line from both sides, the bevel of the gauge makes your V).
When starting a saw, use a light touch and a light angle to kerf in your work on the line, (an eighth inch groove is sufficient.) Do this from both side to make sure you don wander to much. Take you time. With you have a kerf around the initial part of your cut. You will use the heel of the saw mostly to do this. You can saw at an angle once this is done. Work at roughly a 45 degree angle to the work, and flip the work over often to ensure you don’t go astray. This should be more monotonous than exhausting, use a light touch, whistle, and let the saw work for you. If the work is long enough sit on it and finish the saw cut using an overhand grip. If it is shorter clamp it in a vise and finish it from the other side (I hate the hump this creates so I present an alternate solution in the video).
Always give yourself extra thickness to deal with warp after resawing…it’s a fact of life learn to cope with it.
As far as stock prep is concerned, I am starting (or re-starting) on the legs. Make your true faces the inside of the piece, they accept the joinery. Pick the two ugliest sides and make those flat. For a stock prep session like this what I like to do is get all of my true faces done for each leg and then use one setting on my marking gauge to plane to thickness and width on all the legs. This gives me very uniform looking stock as well as giving me the opportunity to modify my design a bit if the components need to come out slightly undersized do heavier than anticipated planing.
I should be able to post video of planing to thickness soon.
Have fun making a pile of shavings.
-- Make furniture that lasts as long as the tree - Ryan