Unisaw 34-804 at LumberJocks.com http://lumberjocks.com/RCT/blog Thu, 01 Nov 2012 00:58:02 GMT I got this Unisaw 34-804 Unisaw 1963 #7: Red White Blue Motor http://lumberjocks.com/RCT/blog/32752 I forgot to post these pics of the motor after putting it back together and painting it.


Oh and the Rip fence

]]> Thu, 01 Nov 2012 00:58:02 GMT http://lumberjocks.com/RCT/blog/32752 RCT RCT Unisaw 1963 #6: update on tablesaw http://lumberjocks.com/RCT/blog/32751 been a while had to rebuild my clothes dryer then there was Sandy but today got some things done. Installation of the dust collection port and hand wheels, pics below

dust collection port

Hand wheels Outside edges Coated with soft tool handle covering.

]]> Thu, 01 Nov 2012 00:36:29 GMT http://lumberjocks.com/RCT/blog/32751 RCT RCT Unisaw 1963 #5: dust collection tale of woe http://lumberjocks.com/RCT/blog/32336 Started feeling good about how this saw was coming together. Then I started working on the way to get the dust collection worked out. Not wanting to cut into the side or back of the cabinet do to the shape it was in. I thought I would use the dust clean-out door on the front. I cut up the dust collector I had built a few years ago as an experiment. After taking the measurements off of the saw I started cutting the PVC. This has taken way more time than I would have guessed. I guess the engineer in me refuses to deviate from the first concept but I’m willing to alter the design on the fly. Anyway the pics should tell the story.

Looks way too large but my feet fit under it at a normal distance for cutting.

View from inside the saw


The slope of the ID of the PVC will leave a small area that is lower then the port so the turbulence is reduced—-
The time between the pic above and the one below was where the time was spent. once I had the PVC shaped I closed the ends and found I had no way to install it. So I had to make the door so I could reach in to tighten the screws. It was the right mistake now I have a easier way to clean up the dust if need be.


I had to make the flanges for the top and bottom as well as one for the end to hold the port in place.


I’m using and old colonial hinge as a latch for the door it was just right and just sitting in the shop,

This last pic is a view of the outlet before I mount the gate to it and it will be hard to see

I will have more pics of the installed and painted dust collection port in the next day or two.
Thanks for looking and all comments are welcome

]]> Thu, 04 Oct 2012 01:48:20 GMT http://lumberjocks.com/RCT/blog/32336 RCT RCT Unisaw 1963 #4: Colors + http://lumberjocks.com/RCT/blog/32066 Here are some new pics
The body of the saw is coated with epoxy made for floors, blue to fit USA color scheme.

making a bottom plate with a slice through the center for clean out.

Angling the dust plate to the front of saw don’t want to cut another hole “week iron”

I will be making the sawdust port go around under the motor cover.



Using vinyl from old kitchen flooring to make a smooth path for the sawdust.
And now the flag trunnion pics



]]> Sat, 15 Sep 2012 01:01:01 GMT http://lumberjocks.com/RCT/blog/32066 RCT RCT Unisaw 1963 #3: White parts http://lumberjocks.com/RCT/blog/31979 Trying to decide a color scheme My girl said “where is the saw from?” I said “the USA” She said “and what color’s are those” Ah duh. So internal parts white with red stripes.

Here are some pics of prep.

Here are some shots that surprised me, the castings were not cleaned up
this is the kind of thing that we would have accused the Japaneses of doing.

And then white parts stripes later

]]> Sat, 08 Sep 2012 20:49:36 GMT http://lumberjocks.com/RCT/blog/31979 RCT RCT Unisaw 1963 #2: Ready for Paint http://lumberjocks.com/RCT/blog/31933 Here are some pics of the saw after days of hand wire brushing, power wire brushing, hand and power sanding, scotch bright cleaning and degreasing. With a shot of the base for a reminder of how bad it was. I have not gotten up the gusto to start working on the base yet. So far I have determined that the switch will need to be replaced and repositioned, the motor and arbor bearings amazingly seem in good shape no strange sounds or wobbles. The hand-wheel is just in bad shape this is how it looks after 3 days in the anti rust liquid. I’ll be spending some time with it today

]]> Wed, 05 Sep 2012 13:14:33 GMT http://lumberjocks.com/RCT/blog/31933 RCT RCT Unisaw 1963 #1: She Spins on her own http://lumberjocks.com/RCT/blog/31816 See http://lumberjocks.com/RCT/blog/31773 For the real first entry to this blog I cannot get it to move?

She Spins on her own,

set up for 220V. I needed to replace some wire to get her going.The switch box is over built but the switch is cheep and I could not believe that they used aluminum from the plug to the windings.

]]> Thu, 30 Aug 2012 00:19:50 GMT http://lumberjocks.com/RCT/blog/31816 RCT RCT Unisaw 34-804 #2: 1963 http://lumberjocks.com/RCT/blog/31773 Ok went and picked up another unisaw. Look at this junk it is not painted brown this is rust!
Thought I’d show how bad they can get when left out in the weather. I was told this is only about a year of buildup but I am skeptical. I’ll let you know how this works over the next few days.

]]> Mon, 27 Aug 2012 16:52:40 GMT http://lumberjocks.com/RCT/blog/31773 RCT RCT Unisaw 34-804 #1: New old saw http://lumberjocks.com/RCT/blog/31066 I got this Unisaw 34-804 after a 4.5 hour drive across the bridge/tunnel and up the eastern shore of Virginia and Maryland. Having Spent $600.00 for the saw. It also came with a biesemeyer T-square rip fence and a overarm blade guard. It unfortunately had a 3 phase Motor. Not having 3 phase in my house I went on the hunt for a single phase motor. So many things I did not know about motors. Searching for info was tedious, so many woodworking sites try to help but when you don’t know what to ask all answers are good. Well assured I had found the info I needed I ordered a motor it was delivered and of course had to be sent back as it was damaged in shipping and would not have worked as the Unisaw needs a different brace. When removing the old motor I saw that it had no ground wire hooked up (green wire wrapped around the other wires in the junction box) so I assumed this saw was not working when taken out of service. Dam I was going to use the money from its sale to help pay for the new motor. I cannot sale something knowing its not right so I find a motor shop near by that will fix it. They tell me that they can start work on the motor in an hour. Well 3 days later they call and say that the motor works fine and I can come get it. It had nothing wrong with it the green wire is not needed for this type of motor. Again the more you think you know. They did not charge me for testing showed me it working on one of their benches and apologized for the time it took can’t beet that and now I can sale it confident that it works.So that motor is good but I still don’t have 3 phase. I here about these VFD that can run a 3 phrase motor from single phases line. They are way too expensive for a 3hp motor. So the line to use to find a motor 3450(rpm for most table saws) TEFC (totally enclosed fan cooled for cabinet saws because the sawdust will fall right on the motor should be used on contractor saws as well but not as important as the motor on them is more out of the way) Single phase ( most of us don’t have 3 phase) 3hp (or the horse power rating your looking for) 56C ( this is the shape of the motor or the way the base bracket is oriented )
So (3450 tefc single 3hp 56C) if you use this as a search line you would get a grope of motors that will be good for a cabinet saw. Now if they are in your price range is up to you. Don’t be surprised if the prices vary widely. I’m talking $49.00 all the way up to $1800.00 and I cant tell what makes them different I was looking for a used motor thinking it would be cheaper but nope, You will find used ones that must use silver wire or something I don’t get it. I don’t have a motor as of today.

]]> Wed, 18 Jul 2012 12:31:58 GMT http://lumberjocks.com/RCT/blog/31066 RCT RCT