Method to shiplap siding for a new workshop??

I think option 1 would work the best. Set up to use the max width of the stack. That way it will give you a good lap, even if the edges are not completely straight. Option 2 would put a lot of strain on your saw.

-- Tim -- http://tmuli.com

A question why would option 2 put more strain on the saw. The same amount of wood is being removed

Quebecnewf

If you have a jointer with a rabbeting ledge, try that.

-- -** You are never to old to set another goal or to dream a new dream ****************** Dick, & Barb Cain, Hibbing, MN. http://www.woodcarvingillustrated.com/gallery/member.php?uid=3627&protype=1

Option 1 with a sacrificial fence and feather boards. One feather board will hold the work down and the other will hold the work tight to the fence. Then get someone else to unload the saw at the other end.

The other option is to tongue and groove the wood. A lot of roof sheathing is tongue and groove. You can do this with the table saw under less strain since it is a smaller cut. Though there are two set ups.

Option four which I have done and don’t really recommend, is use the jointing rabbeting feature of a jointer if you have one. They make very smooth cuts, but it is tiring.

-- -John "Do I have to keep typing a smiley? Just assume it's a joke." www.flickr.com/photos/gizmodyne

A jointer would be too slow. This is a 1200 ft job. This wood is green fir. It has been air drying for a few weeks but is still very green.
T&G would also be too slow i think and you would have to run the boards on their edge through the table saw , not an easy setup.

Looks like its the dado head on the table saw.

Quebecnewf

I would not use the table saw with green wood because I think you will get uneven rabbets. I would use the router with the fence mounted off the back edge. You may have to take two passes to get your depth of cut. This is a straight walk down the board with chips flying. My router of choice is the Porter Cable 690 and I have no doubt it could do the job in a cake walk. It would be easier if the boards were not loaded with moisture – suspect you will get a lot of furring but don’t be afraid to make a back cut to get rid of some of that. Stick with a half-inch shank cutter.

-- Phil in British Columbia

to shiplap, #1, if it comes out rough—I am suspecting that the boards are rough cut also? another thought put down a layer of roofing felt (tar paper), or paint the bottom of the blue styrofoam board black. I suspect that would be the quickest and easiest solution. might be cheaper than burning out a router . . . or taking a chunk out of your body

-- Fred, Springfield, Ma

what would putting down tar paper do I would see black tar paper instead of blue sty. The boards are rough sawed and a rough shiplap is not a problem. My main reason for the shiplap is to avoid being able to look up through the wood so to speak.

A router seems to be too slight a tool for this job and no router works good on green wood

QUebecnewf

Does anyone make shiplap sheathing anymore, or has plywood taken over?

I haven’t noticed it in the lumberyards lately.

-- -** You are never to old to set another goal or to dream a new dream ****************** Dick, & Barb Cain, Hibbing, MN. http://www.woodcarvingillustrated.com/gallery/member.php?uid=3627&protype=1

Have you checked the math?

Here is what I think (I may be wrong LOL)

I don’t know the dimensions of your lumber but assuming it is 6” wide.

1200 sq ft X 2 lf ft/sq ft = 2400 lf.

Now since you need to mill both sides of each board you are up to 4800 lf, shy of a mile by 480’.

How many dado blades and table saws would you wear out milling that much lumber?

Do you have a company that mills moulding anywhere near? They might tool up for a run that large.

-- Scott - Chico California http://chicowoodnut.home.comcast.net

Table saw would be the fastest.

-- Gary, East TX -- The longest journey begins with a single step.

Dang Gary,

I was hoping the engineer would check my math.

-- Scott - Chico California http://chicowoodnut.home.comcast.net

I don’t do math anymore, I’m retired. :-)

-- Gary, East TX -- The longest journey begins with a single step.

I’m not retired but the math element is making me tired.

-- Todd A. Clippinger, Montana, http://amcraftsman.com

It does seem a bit of a daunting task. I had a guy on another site who said he did all the siding for a 28×48 barn with a handheld router.
I did a few little test boards on my TS today and it seemed to go good not to much load on the saw and I had a good feed rate going.
I think the TS is more than up to the task and the dado stack is brand new but a very crappy one so I don’t mind running it for this job.The boards are for the most part 1×6 so the cut would be 1/4 in wide by approx 1/2 deep.
Quebecnewf

Could you use a regular ripping blade and make two cuts one on edge and the second flat, this would be alot easier and there would be alot less wood chewed up, making it easier on the table saw. Once you have the fence and feather boards or holddowns in place you could run alot of boards threw very quickly.

-- Tom D

Wow Tom,

Now your talking two xtra cuts per side. 9600 linear feet or 1.8 miles of cutting. Woohoo! Maybe a wobble dado would make it easier. I have one hidden away that I can donate.

Seriously though, I once made some siding for an old 1918 bungalow I owned. Some of the original had rotted and I couldn’t find anything to replace it with. I was 28 and I thought I was brilliant! My bride was impressed. Turned out pretty good though. And it was fun. Get a couple of friends and start a production run.

-- Scott - Chico California http://chicowoodnut.home.comcast.net

TomD has it right. That’s what I’d do.

-- Tony, Ohio