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Frame Saw Build #1: design considerations - blades

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Blog entry by PurpLev posted 1002 days ago 7463 reads 5 times favorited 21 comments Add to Favorites Watch
no previous part Part 1 of Frame Saw Build series Part 2: Blades are in, Conceptual design is out »

OK, so I broke the teeth of my japanese saw and it’s time I build a replacement saw. I always wanted to build a frame saw as the design and capabilities of such saw seem to outmatch any other saw type. It is tight, can do joinery, rip, resaw (within it’s size range), and stores easily unassembled.

I think I have the lumber to make the parts, but am currently stumped with blade selection and saw length consideration.

I am not interested in the gramecy bow saw 12” blade as it is mainly aimed at curved cuts which I have a coping saw for. I am more interested in the 1”+ wide blades for general cross/rip/joinery work (obviously not a single blade for all 3 but you get the point). I see that traditional woodworker has german blades which seem decent, they are either 24” or 15” long blades. I think I am more inclined to start with a ~16” long saw for now. I also see that highland woodworking has a 26” long blades but that seem a bit too long for me especially to do joinery. they also have ~15” long blades, but those look like japanese style tooth setup which I am not interested in at this point.

A few questions to you:
1. Does anyone have any other recommended saw blade supplier they had good experience with? is traditional woodworker considered a good supplier ?
2. Does anyone have any feedback as to ideal saw length for joinery/cross/rip/general use? should I go with 15-16” or 24-26”? (leaning towards 15-16 at the moment)

Thanks in advance,
Peace.

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.



21 comments so far

View brianl's profile

brianl

108 posts in 1665 days


#1 posted 1002 days ago

Kari Hultman used a blade from Highland woodworking (one of my favorite stores).

-- Brian - Belmont, Massachusetts

View PurpLev's profile

PurpLev

8475 posts in 2232 days


#2 posted 1002 days ago

Thanks Brian, that by the way is a panel saw and is huge (but the blade is the same).

since I had to get some other stuff I ended up ordering the blades from Highlandwoodworking after I inquired with them about shorter blades to which they replied they do not carry any but suggested I could cut the longer blades down to any size which I may or may not end up doing…

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

View Dennisgrosen's profile

Dennisgrosen

10850 posts in 1699 days


#3 posted 1002 days ago

I don´t know Purplev
I have both 50 cm , 60 cm and 70 cm frame saws
and you proopebly wont believe me when I said the 70 cm is my crosscut saw …. though for firewood
with big teeth 3-4 per inch but sinch I don´t have a stowe I´m thinking of resharpening it to be a ribsaw

the 60 is a ripsaw I think , and the another 60 is a turn saw with a 1/8 blade …... so
a good thing with framesaws is that they can be used both as a push and as a pullsaw if you want

Dennis

View mafe's profile

mafe

9413 posts in 1673 days


#4 posted 1002 days ago

20 inch / 50 cm is a good allround size, and I would say minimum for ripping.
Smaller is for detail work, so if I were you I would not go for the 15-16.
I just ordered a 60 cm / 23 inch Japanese blade for my next homebuild framesaw…
http://www.fine-tools.com/gestell.htm
I did build two small framesaws it was easy and rewarding you can look in my posts.
Best thoughts,
Mads

-- Mad F, the fanatical rhykenologist and vintage architect. Democraticwoodworking.

View PurpLev's profile

PurpLev

8475 posts in 2232 days


#5 posted 1002 days ago

Thanks Dennis and Mads for the first hand experience feedback. I thought about it and this saw will be mostly for joinery which is why I was leaning towards smaller scale. I did end up ordering the 26” blades (rip and xcut) and my idea is to make the handles and a couple of cross braces for the saw at difference lengths to accomodate different blades. I’ll start with the full length and see how I like it, I can always then shorten it if I feel it is too big. or make a 2nd one.

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

View Dennisgrosen's profile

Dennisgrosen

10850 posts in 1699 days


#6 posted 1001 days ago

I don´t think you want to have differrent crossbracess ….. then you need to rewind the robe
at the top every time …. its possiple but not very convenient as a shoptool
then if you only want one saw its better to have the same length on the blades and just
live with it

here is a few pictures of a big swedish rip framesaw …. loke at the joinery ist much sturdyer
than they usualy show and talk about when people want or have make one and using it
talking about bowing factor in the wood and take a look at the teeth tooo …. biiiig


.
.
.
Dennis

View mafe's profile

mafe

9413 posts in 1673 days


#7 posted 1001 days ago

Nicde teeths Dennis.

I think 26 is a good size, and I will also say make a few ir is easy once get started.

-- Mad F, the fanatical rhykenologist and vintage architect. Democraticwoodworking.

View PurpLev's profile

PurpLev

8475 posts in 2232 days


#8 posted 1001 days ago

oh wow, talk about BIG – nice one Dennis. And thank you and Mads for the explanation. I think I will follow it and just make a 26” saw for now, and if need a smaller version just make another one.

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

View WayneC's profile

WayneC

12237 posts in 2681 days


#9 posted 1001 days ago

Any thoughts about making blades from bandsaw blade stock?

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

View PurpLev's profile

PurpLev

8475 posts in 2232 days


#10 posted 1001 days ago

Wayne I thought about it, the only blades I have are 1/8” scroll blade and a 1/2” woodslicer which I am not sure would work well for hand saw based on the teeth configuration and geometry. I think frame saw intended blades are better suited for this job (I will probably mostly use this for joinery).

That said – I originally planned on using bandsaw blade, but in the case that it doesn’t work as well, I wanted to make sure I built the saw based on commercially available blades so that I’ll have alternatives. so for first blade I wanted to start with something ‘off the shelf’ for size. can then always custom fit a bandsaw blade to it (once mine breaks or is retired)

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

View WayneC's profile

WayneC

12237 posts in 2681 days


#11 posted 1001 days ago

You might be able to get larger width blades from an industrial supplier in your area. Next time I am out I will check the supplier by my house and see if they have any one inch or larger blades and what type of teeth options are available.

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

View PurpLev's profile

PurpLev

8475 posts in 2232 days


#12 posted 1001 days ago

Thanks Wayne!

I am currently awaiting blades from highland to arrive on monday – those are 1 1/2” wide blades for frame saws. I will post once I get those.

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

View mafe's profile

mafe

9413 posts in 1673 days


#13 posted 1001 days ago

;-) look forward to see the result.

-- Mad F, the fanatical rhykenologist and vintage architect. Democraticwoodworking.

View PurpLev's profile

PurpLev

8475 posts in 2232 days


#14 posted 1001 days ago

Merci Mads… same here, looking forward to see the results

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

View mafe's profile

mafe

9413 posts in 1673 days


#15 posted 999 days ago


Put the blade in my saw yesterday evening and testet it on a piece of oak, it cuts really good.
Not so fine, but this might be also the hard wood and my lack of training with it.


Here the blade and cut.


And here comparet to my normal 8 teeth per inch blade.

Hope it can be useful.

-- Mad F, the fanatical rhykenologist and vintage architect. Democraticwoodworking.

showing 1 through 15 of 21 comments

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