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Machinist Toolcart #4: Gluing up the Carcass

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Blog entry by PurpLev posted 06-22-2011 04:03 PM 2563 reads 0 times favorited 8 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 3: Dividers Fittings Part 4 of Machinist Toolcart series Part 5: Front Face Frames are On »

Had another quick chance for some shop time and used that to glue together the fitted carcass. I didn’t want to deal with the glueup the day before (after fitting the dividers) as I knew I would need a peace of mind and ample time to do the glueup properly and not rush through it.

And so, I cleared the workbench from all the ‘things’ that always seem to end up on it (how is that always happening?!?) to have use of it’s full length (barely enough) and laid down the carcass sides/top/bottom in their intended orientation upside down so that I can align their edges and then used blue painters tape to keep the parts aligned and together for the glue up.

It’s one thing to flip up taped set of parts for a 6”x4” mitered box, but it’s a whole other experience for a 20”x28” box that stretch far beyond the edges of the workbench from end to end. but somehow I managed it (some tape came off, but I had enough tape to keep things in place so I just had to replace some tap strips here and there when the parts were standing up on their sides on the workbench).

I then managed to slide a sheet of masonite underneath the carcass parts (I know, I should have had it there before I put the carcass parts) to protect the workbench from the glue spills, and I was ready to glue some wood!

Spread glue on the mitered corners (both sides) and started folding the whole thing together as the tape was keeping the joints aligned and tight. I added the horizontal divider before closing the last corner, and the vertical divider, and glued the last mitered corner only to realize (better now then 1/2 hour later) that the vertical divider was put backwards (with the drawer slide facing the back of the carcass). Now it’s funny how quickly the glue actually starts to set as it was almost impossible to pull that divider out – and it’s only held in a 1/8” deep dado and it’s plywood so not a lot of long grain to long grain going on here, but I managed that as well. aaah, that was a close one.

I added some clamps mostly to keep proper pressure and to keep the joints even (I used it to push the top and bottom inwards a little) and to pull the dividers in properly:

And left it as as is for the night

As I mentioned in the previous post, I did route a 1/8” groove on the fronts/back of all the carcass parts to later align the face frames to it. the cut was done to allow for a spline to fit in, but didn’t care much to make a perfect clean cut as it will be covered later. this is purely functional cut/groove:

And this is the victim…. the Incra 1000SE handle bolt. the plastic handle was completely shattered and this bent bold that keeps the miter gauge locked is all that is left:

I was thinking about machining a new one as a one piece aluminum handle+threaded end but am not sure Aluminum would be good enough for this so I may just try to straighten this bold and glue a handle to it – any suggestions (just trying to be creative here as opposed to just ordering a replacement part more than anything)?

Next I’ll probably do the face frames since I may not have enough material for all the drawers at the moment. we’ll see what the mood will strike with next.

Thanks for reading,
Peace

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.



8 comments so far

View SPalm's profile

SPalm

4904 posts in 2605 days


#1 posted 06-22-2011 04:14 PM

Looking good.

Seems like making your own handle should be easy enough. Strange that the bolt bent so much from just a fall. Oh well, maybe you can bend it back. Or find a new one at the hardware store. You could just use a straight bolt epoxied into a wood handle.

Steve

-- -- I'm no rocket surgeon

View CharlieM1958's profile

CharlieM1958

15714 posts in 2942 days


#2 posted 06-22-2011 04:20 PM

I’m glad to know I’m not the only one who ever glued up an assembly only to realize I had something in backwards. :-)

I think it is some sort of corollary to Murphy’s Law that glue sets at three times the normal rate if a mistake has been made.

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

View Jon3's profile

Jon3

494 posts in 2829 days


#3 posted 06-22-2011 04:27 PM

Why not machine one out of steel? You can always use a soft steel and heat treat it yourself after you’ve machined it.

View PurpLev's profile

PurpLev

8476 posts in 2372 days


#4 posted 06-22-2011 04:37 PM

Steve, um…. so its not the usual ‘fall’... my miter gauge is setup in a sliding sled it fell with the sled on top (weight) :) or more :(

Charlie – I wonder if we can use Murphys law and purposely design one part “backwards” so that when we put it the right way it would be against the design and in a way – a mistake. you think that would work?

Jon. I thought about steel. and in fact since it’s a screw it probably doesn’t need to be heat treated. I just didn’t really feel I want to be holding a steel handle… a mental projection I guess, but that is indeed another option. thanks!

Edit: a thought came to mind to incorporate a steel base with a wooden sides for the handle – thanks Jon for making me rethink this.

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

View Dale J Struhar Sr's profile

Dale J Struhar Sr

340 posts in 1854 days


#5 posted 06-22-2011 09:04 PM

Looks good.

-- Dale, Ohio

View rance's profile

rance

4147 posts in 1884 days


#6 posted 06-28-2011 02:15 PM

As for your miter gauge. I got the 1000 SE also. The first thing I did was replaced that knob with a wooden one. I bought a long bolt of the right threads and simply turned a wooden handle for it, just like making a screwdriver. I’ll try to get a pic posted tomorrow sometime. Sorry, that’s the soonest I can. If I knew where I put the plastic one, I’d give it to you.

-- Backer boards, stop blocks, build oversized, and never buy a hand plane--

View PurpLev's profile

PurpLev

8476 posts in 2372 days


#7 posted 06-28-2011 03:33 PM

Thanks Rance, that is what I plan on doing, although I may also turn the screw and make it into post to mount the wooden handle onto like you might see in kitchen knives (now if only I had the time to go at it).

would be nice to see what you did if you can find that photo. Thanks!

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

View ChuckV's profile

ChuckV

2465 posts in 2251 days


#8 posted 06-28-2011 04:27 PM

Thanks for sharing your progress. It is fun to watch.

It is amazing how often something can go wrong once the glue is spread, even after several flawless dry runs. I am glad that you were able to make the save!

-- “While the world with closed eyes sleeps, The sky knows and weeps - steel rain. ” ― Nathan Bell

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