MDB

PurpLev said:

So many cubes - GULP! ....I mean GLUP..... um - GLUE UP

Disclaimer: This blog follows my Magen David Board that is already finished and posted here

This phase of the project took on a different pace. it was all hand tools oriented, and I was able to work on it at nights and at quick sessions as there was little setup involved, and not a whole lot of noise.

To start. I took my old drill press table that was just hanging around the shop useless after I upgraded it and screwed a straight piece of cherry left over from my milling process to act as a flat reference face to glue everything to. I waxed the table and reference board as well as my cauls, and then positioned all the cubes in their final position, and started gluing one line/column at a time, clamping each to the flat reference strip, and adding a caul (arced bottom) on top to keep everything flat on the bottom. before applying glue I actually scraped each cube on both its sides to clean up any imperfections from the milling process:

Next, after I had a bunch of strips with uneven edges, it was time to joint them to be put together. the bunch of strips on the left are pre jointed and you can see the extra gap between them caused by variations in the first glueup process and parts not being milled precisely the same dimensions to begin with (see my original post and my poor decision on trying to mass produce this - it still is causing trouble). The bunch of strips on the right are after jointing them with my #6 (largest I have), and smoothed them with the #4. After the first couple of strips, I also beveled the ends so that it won't chip off as I'm planing past it:

Planing cross grain is actually not too bad. just as easy as across the grain if the tool is tuned well with the exception that the shavings are short and well - cross grainy (for lack of better words)

PLANING TIP: Planing Uphill, Downhill, or just plain flat I find it that the tendency of jointing is to follow a line parallel with the workbench/earth/ground. If I clamp my part tilting up away from me - I'll be planing it thinner at it's end, if I clamp the part tilting downwards from me - I'll be planing it thinner on my end. If I clamp it somewhat parallel with the bench, I have the best chance of jointing it even across it's length.

And always check that you are not jointing at a bevel every few passes - if you are , move you plane to the opposite side to compensate and bring it back to square.

For poorly milled material to begin with - I ended up having to plane some of the strips quite a bit making them narrower than others - which in effect breaks the continuity of the lines in the geometry on the top of the board. not TOO too bad, but could have been avoided if properly milled to begin with. it does give this piece a handmade one-of look though so I'm ok with it.

At the end of this, I was left with the strips almost ready to be put together for the final glue up stage, although as you can see - I had to cut out 2 squares that somehow were glued in the wrong orientation:

At first I thought of just living it as is, but then I figured since I'm at the stage of no return - I might as well fix it now and not have to see it ever again. and so I did.

After glueing new (I had 4 extras) beveled cubes in place of those I had to cut out and cleaning those parts, it was time to glue up the strips together to what will become the final slab:

Next: The Time of the Machines!

Click to expand...

PurpLev said:

So many cubes - GULP! ....I mean GLUP..... um - GLUE UP

Disclaimer: This blog follows my Magen David Board that is already finished and posted here

This phase of the project took on a different pace. it was all hand tools oriented, and I was able to work on it at nights and at quick sessions as there was little setup involved, and not a whole lot of noise.

To start. I took my old drill press table that was just hanging around the shop useless after I upgraded it and screwed a straight piece of cherry left over from my milling process to act as a flat reference face to glue everything to. I waxed the table and reference board as well as my cauls, and then positioned all the cubes in their final position, and started gluing one line/column at a time, clamping each to the flat reference strip, and adding a caul (arced bottom) on top to keep everything flat on the bottom. before applying glue I actually scraped each cube on both its sides to clean up any imperfections from the milling process:

Next, after I had a bunch of strips with uneven edges, it was time to joint them to be put together. the bunch of strips on the left are pre jointed and you can see the extra gap between them caused by variations in the first glueup process and parts not being milled precisely the same dimensions to begin with (see my original post and my poor decision on trying to mass produce this - it still is causing trouble). The bunch of strips on the right are after jointing them with my #6 (largest I have), and smoothed them with the #4. After the first couple of strips, I also beveled the ends so that it won't chip off as I'm planing past it:

Planing cross grain is actually not too bad. just as easy as across the grain if the tool is tuned well with the exception that the shavings are short and well - cross grainy (for lack of better words)

PLANING TIP: Planing Uphill, Downhill, or just plain flat I find it that the tendency of jointing is to follow a line parallel with the workbench/earth/ground. If I clamp my part tilting up away from me - I'll be planing it thinner at it's end, if I clamp the part tilting downwards from me - I'll be planing it thinner on my end. If I clamp it somewhat parallel with the bench, I have the best chance of jointing it even across it's length.

And always check that you are not jointing at a bevel every few passes - if you are , move you plane to the opposite side to compensate and bring it back to square.

For poorly milled material to begin with - I ended up having to plane some of the strips quite a bit making them narrower than others - which in effect breaks the continuity of the lines in the geometry on the top of the board. not TOO too bad, but could have been avoided if properly milled to begin with. it does give this piece a handmade one-of look though so I'm ok with it.

At the end of this, I was left with the strips almost ready to be put together for the final glue up stage, although as you can see - I had to cut out 2 squares that somehow were glued in the wrong orientation:

At first I thought of just living it as is, but then I figured since I'm at the stage of no return - I might as well fix it now and not have to see it ever again. and so I did.

After glueing new (I had 4 extras) beveled cubes in place of those I had to cut out and cleaning those parts, it was time to glue up the strips together to what will become the final slab:

Next: The Time of the Machines!

Click to expand...

PurpLev said:

So many cubes - GULP! ....I mean GLUP..... um - GLUE UP

Disclaimer: This blog follows my Magen David Board that is already finished and posted here

This phase of the project took on a different pace. it was all hand tools oriented, and I was able to work on it at nights and at quick sessions as there was little setup involved, and not a whole lot of noise.

To start. I took my old drill press table that was just hanging around the shop useless after I upgraded it and screwed a straight piece of cherry left over from my milling process to act as a flat reference face to glue everything to. I waxed the table and reference board as well as my cauls, and then positioned all the cubes in their final position, and started gluing one line/column at a time, clamping each to the flat reference strip, and adding a caul (arced bottom) on top to keep everything flat on the bottom. before applying glue I actually scraped each cube on both its sides to clean up any imperfections from the milling process:

Next, after I had a bunch of strips with uneven edges, it was time to joint them to be put together. the bunch of strips on the left are pre jointed and you can see the extra gap between them caused by variations in the first glueup process and parts not being milled precisely the same dimensions to begin with (see my original post and my poor decision on trying to mass produce this - it still is causing trouble). The bunch of strips on the right are after jointing them with my #6 (largest I have), and smoothed them with the #4. After the first couple of strips, I also beveled the ends so that it won't chip off as I'm planing past it:

Planing cross grain is actually not too bad. just as easy as across the grain if the tool is tuned well with the exception that the shavings are short and well - cross grainy (for lack of better words)

PLANING TIP: Planing Uphill, Downhill, or just plain flat I find it that the tendency of jointing is to follow a line parallel with the workbench/earth/ground. If I clamp my part tilting up away from me - I'll be planing it thinner at it's end, if I clamp the part tilting downwards from me - I'll be planing it thinner on my end. If I clamp it somewhat parallel with the bench, I have the best chance of jointing it even across it's length.

And always check that you are not jointing at a bevel every few passes - if you are , move you plane to the opposite side to compensate and bring it back to square.

For poorly milled material to begin with - I ended up having to plane some of the strips quite a bit making them narrower than others - which in effect breaks the continuity of the lines in the geometry on the top of the board. not TOO too bad, but could have been avoided if properly milled to begin with. it does give this piece a handmade one-of look though so I'm ok with it.

At the end of this, I was left with the strips almost ready to be put together for the final glue up stage, although as you can see - I had to cut out 2 squares that somehow were glued in the wrong orientation:

At first I thought of just living it as is, but then I figured since I'm at the stage of no return - I might as well fix it now and not have to see it ever again. and so I did.

After glueing new (I had 4 extras) beveled cubes in place of those I had to cut out and cleaning those parts, it was time to glue up the strips together to what will become the final slab:

Next: The Time of the Machines!

Click to expand...

PurpLev said:

So many cubes - GULP! ....I mean GLUP..... um - GLUE UP

Disclaimer: This blog follows my Magen David Board that is already finished and posted here

This phase of the project took on a different pace. it was all hand tools oriented, and I was able to work on it at nights and at quick sessions as there was little setup involved, and not a whole lot of noise.

To start. I took my old drill press table that was just hanging around the shop useless after I upgraded it and screwed a straight piece of cherry left over from my milling process to act as a flat reference face to glue everything to. I waxed the table and reference board as well as my cauls, and then positioned all the cubes in their final position, and started gluing one line/column at a time, clamping each to the flat reference strip, and adding a caul (arced bottom) on top to keep everything flat on the bottom. before applying glue I actually scraped each cube on both its sides to clean up any imperfections from the milling process:

Next, after I had a bunch of strips with uneven edges, it was time to joint them to be put together. the bunch of strips on the left are pre jointed and you can see the extra gap between them caused by variations in the first glueup process and parts not being milled precisely the same dimensions to begin with (see my original post and my poor decision on trying to mass produce this - it still is causing trouble). The bunch of strips on the right are after jointing them with my #6 (largest I have), and smoothed them with the #4. After the first couple of strips, I also beveled the ends so that it won't chip off as I'm planing past it:

Planing cross grain is actually not too bad. just as easy as across the grain if the tool is tuned well with the exception that the shavings are short and well - cross grainy (for lack of better words)

PLANING TIP: Planing Uphill, Downhill, or just plain flat I find it that the tendency of jointing is to follow a line parallel with the workbench/earth/ground. If I clamp my part tilting up away from me - I'll be planing it thinner at it's end, if I clamp the part tilting downwards from me - I'll be planing it thinner on my end. If I clamp it somewhat parallel with the bench, I have the best chance of jointing it even across it's length.

And always check that you are not jointing at a bevel every few passes - if you are , move you plane to the opposite side to compensate and bring it back to square.

For poorly milled material to begin with - I ended up having to plane some of the strips quite a bit making them narrower than others - which in effect breaks the continuity of the lines in the geometry on the top of the board. not TOO too bad, but could have been avoided if properly milled to begin with. it does give this piece a handmade one-of look though so I'm ok with it.

At the end of this, I was left with the strips almost ready to be put together for the final glue up stage, although as you can see - I had to cut out 2 squares that somehow were glued in the wrong orientation:

At first I thought of just living it as is, but then I figured since I'm at the stage of no return - I might as well fix it now and not have to see it ever again. and so I did.

After glueing new (I had 4 extras) beveled cubes in place of those I had to cut out and cleaning those parts, it was time to glue up the strips together to what will become the final slab:

Next: The Time of the Machines!

Click to expand...

1. A nice consistent bevel around the edges (top and bottom)
2. fingers handles on both sides - this was real nice since I setup stops on left and right of the fence, and was basically following along, while taking 1/8" passes to get the total of ~2.5" deep pockets in a matter of seconds - no guessing, no remeasuring - once the stops were set, they kept their location throughout the entire process. I'm really liking this fence.
3. V shaped juice grooves. again - setting up the stops on both ends, and sneaking up on the final stops was easy with the precision of the Incra positioning method.

PurpLev said:

The Age of the Machines - Final milling and profiling

Disclaimer: This blog follows my Magen David Board that is already finished and posted here

Once everything was glued up into a single slab, it was time to plane it flat and parallel. one of the strips I jointed happen (don't ask me how…lol) to be jointed off square, throwing the last 4-5 strips in the glueup off flat (mostly flat). I was tired at this point, and just figured I'm not going to rejoint it, but will pay the price and plane it all down at the cost of having a thinner board - it didn't seem like it was going to take off too much material, but more than what I had hoped for.

I took the board to the garage, and went at it with hand planes. Unlike planing cross grain, planing end grain is a serious task, the bites are hard, the setting needs to be such that the plane will take ultra thin shavings in order for it to be able to handle the shearing force, and the lumber is not very friendly to the blades - I think now that I'm done I'll have to resharpen all plane blades just because of this one job.

I was able to decently plane most of the board down flat , but those last 4-5 strips were too low that I wanted to keep at it with this method.

The next day, I reconfigured my old drill press table that served me as a glueup guide, and was not setup as a planing base along with 2 jointed flat support boards that are slightly taller than my cutting board.

I shimmed the cutting board between the 2 'rails' so that it won't be moving about, and using my old workbench-planing-sled and a 1-1/4" mortising bit, I went at it taking ~1/32 passes until I was able to level out the board on one side, flipped it (and put a 1/8" masonite sheet under to lift it up a tad bit) and did the same thing to the other side to get a flat and parallel board - rough looking:

After that, I went back to hand planing it flush and smooth. still not an easy task, but at least the bulk of it was done. remember - bevel the edges slightly so that you don't chip it as your planing through it.

Now that I had a flat board to work with, I trimmed it on the TS tot make it square on all the edges so that I can edge treat it with the router table.

I then (finally since setting it halfway up) was able to utilize my router table and the LS positioner to get:

1. A nice consistent bevel around the edges (top and bottom)
2. fingers handles on both sides - this was real nice since I setup stops on left and right of the fence, and was basically following along, while taking 1/8" passes to get the total of ~2.5" deep pockets in a matter of seconds - no guessing, no remeasuring - once the stops were set, they kept their location throughout the entire process. I'm really liking this fence.
3. V shaped juice grooves. again - setting up the stops on both ends, and sneaking up on the final stops was easy with the precision of the Incra positioning method.

what I eventually got. was this:

A bit thinner than I had planned for, the geometry is a bit off from the original lines I had designed for it, but I think it came out great! I'm really liking this one, and the thickness actually looks more elegant than the original thicker design.

With a bit of mineral oil. this project was done and done, and can be seen here:



After applying the oil, the board twisted corner to corner. at first I freaked out, but then it hit me that this might be the effect of the oil and once it is fully absorbed evently, the board will naturally balance itself out - which it has, and is back to flat.

So, the project is done, Lessons learnt, Experience gained, and I'm pretty happy with it all. All in all, even though there was a lot of fixing and dealing with the improperly milled lumber - it was a fun project to work on, and I already have a couple more in mind.

Thanks for reading,
Peace.

Click to expand...

PurpLev said:

The Age of the Machines - Final milling and profiling

Disclaimer: This blog follows my Magen David Board that is already finished and posted here

Once everything was glued up into a single slab, it was time to plane it flat and parallel. one of the strips I jointed happen (don't ask me how…lol) to be jointed off square, throwing the last 4-5 strips in the glueup off flat (mostly flat). I was tired at this point, and just figured I'm not going to rejoint it, but will pay the price and plane it all down at the cost of having a thinner board - it didn't seem like it was going to take off too much material, but more than what I had hoped for.

I took the board to the garage, and went at it with hand planes. Unlike planing cross grain, planing end grain is a serious task, the bites are hard, the setting needs to be such that the plane will take ultra thin shavings in order for it to be able to handle the shearing force, and the lumber is not very friendly to the blades - I think now that I'm done I'll have to resharpen all plane blades just because of this one job.

I was able to decently plane most of the board down flat , but those last 4-5 strips were too low that I wanted to keep at it with this method.

The next day, I reconfigured my old drill press table that served me as a glueup guide, and was not setup as a planing base along with 2 jointed flat support boards that are slightly taller than my cutting board.

I shimmed the cutting board between the 2 'rails' so that it won't be moving about, and using my old workbench-planing-sled and a 1-1/4" mortising bit, I went at it taking ~1/32 passes until I was able to level out the board on one side, flipped it (and put a 1/8" masonite sheet under to lift it up a tad bit) and did the same thing to the other side to get a flat and parallel board - rough looking:

After that, I went back to hand planing it flush and smooth. still not an easy task, but at least the bulk of it was done. remember - bevel the edges slightly so that you don't chip it as your planing through it.

Now that I had a flat board to work with, I trimmed it on the TS tot make it square on all the edges so that I can edge treat it with the router table.

I then (finally since setting it halfway up) was able to utilize my router table and the LS positioner to get:

1. A nice consistent bevel around the edges (top and bottom)
2. fingers handles on both sides - this was real nice since I setup stops on left and right of the fence, and was basically following along, while taking 1/8" passes to get the total of ~2.5" deep pockets in a matter of seconds - no guessing, no remeasuring - once the stops were set, they kept their location throughout the entire process. I'm really liking this fence.
3. V shaped juice grooves. again - setting up the stops on both ends, and sneaking up on the final stops was easy with the precision of the Incra positioning method.

what I eventually got. was this:

A bit thinner than I had planned for, the geometry is a bit off from the original lines I had designed for it, but I think it came out great! I'm really liking this one, and the thickness actually looks more elegant than the original thicker design.

With a bit of mineral oil. this project was done and done, and can be seen here:



After applying the oil, the board twisted corner to corner. at first I freaked out, but then it hit me that this might be the effect of the oil and once it is fully absorbed evently, the board will naturally balance itself out - which it has, and is back to flat.

So, the project is done, Lessons learnt, Experience gained, and I'm pretty happy with it all. All in all, even though there was a lot of fixing and dealing with the improperly milled lumber - it was a fun project to work on, and I already have a couple more in mind.

Thanks for reading,
Peace.

Click to expand...

PurpLev said:

The Age of the Machines - Final milling and profiling

Disclaimer: This blog follows my Magen David Board that is already finished and posted here

Once everything was glued up into a single slab, it was time to plane it flat and parallel. one of the strips I jointed happen (don't ask me how…lol) to be jointed off square, throwing the last 4-5 strips in the glueup off flat (mostly flat). I was tired at this point, and just figured I'm not going to rejoint it, but will pay the price and plane it all down at the cost of having a thinner board - it didn't seem like it was going to take off too much material, but more than what I had hoped for.

I took the board to the garage, and went at it with hand planes. Unlike planing cross grain, planing end grain is a serious task, the bites are hard, the setting needs to be such that the plane will take ultra thin shavings in order for it to be able to handle the shearing force, and the lumber is not very friendly to the blades - I think now that I'm done I'll have to resharpen all plane blades just because of this one job.

I was able to decently plane most of the board down flat , but those last 4-5 strips were too low that I wanted to keep at it with this method.

The next day, I reconfigured my old drill press table that served me as a glueup guide, and was not setup as a planing base along with 2 jointed flat support boards that are slightly taller than my cutting board.

I shimmed the cutting board between the 2 'rails' so that it won't be moving about, and using my old workbench-planing-sled and a 1-1/4" mortising bit, I went at it taking ~1/32 passes until I was able to level out the board on one side, flipped it (and put a 1/8" masonite sheet under to lift it up a tad bit) and did the same thing to the other side to get a flat and parallel board - rough looking:

After that, I went back to hand planing it flush and smooth. still not an easy task, but at least the bulk of it was done. remember - bevel the edges slightly so that you don't chip it as your planing through it.

Now that I had a flat board to work with, I trimmed it on the TS tot make it square on all the edges so that I can edge treat it with the router table.

I then (finally since setting it halfway up) was able to utilize my router table and the LS positioner to get:

1. A nice consistent bevel around the edges (top and bottom)
2. fingers handles on both sides - this was real nice since I setup stops on left and right of the fence, and was basically following along, while taking 1/8" passes to get the total of ~2.5" deep pockets in a matter of seconds - no guessing, no remeasuring - once the stops were set, they kept their location throughout the entire process. I'm really liking this fence.
3. V shaped juice grooves. again - setting up the stops on both ends, and sneaking up on the final stops was easy with the precision of the Incra positioning method.

what I eventually got. was this:

A bit thinner than I had planned for, the geometry is a bit off from the original lines I had designed for it, but I think it came out great! I'm really liking this one, and the thickness actually looks more elegant than the original thicker design.

With a bit of mineral oil. this project was done and done, and can be seen here:



After applying the oil, the board twisted corner to corner. at first I freaked out, but then it hit me that this might be the effect of the oil and once it is fully absorbed evently, the board will naturally balance itself out - which it has, and is back to flat.

So, the project is done, Lessons learnt, Experience gained, and I'm pretty happy with it all. All in all, even though there was a lot of fixing and dealing with the improperly milled lumber - it was a fun project to work on, and I already have a couple more in mind.

Thanks for reading,
Peace.

Click to expand...

PurpLev said:

The Age of the Machines - Final milling and profiling

Disclaimer: This blog follows my Magen David Board that is already finished and posted here

Once everything was glued up into a single slab, it was time to plane it flat and parallel. one of the strips I jointed happen (don't ask me how…lol) to be jointed off square, throwing the last 4-5 strips in the glueup off flat (mostly flat). I was tired at this point, and just figured I'm not going to rejoint it, but will pay the price and plane it all down at the cost of having a thinner board - it didn't seem like it was going to take off too much material, but more than what I had hoped for.

I took the board to the garage, and went at it with hand planes. Unlike planing cross grain, planing end grain is a serious task, the bites are hard, the setting needs to be such that the plane will take ultra thin shavings in order for it to be able to handle the shearing force, and the lumber is not very friendly to the blades - I think now that I'm done I'll have to resharpen all plane blades just because of this one job.

I was able to decently plane most of the board down flat , but those last 4-5 strips were too low that I wanted to keep at it with this method.

The next day, I reconfigured my old drill press table that served me as a glueup guide, and was not setup as a planing base along with 2 jointed flat support boards that are slightly taller than my cutting board.

I shimmed the cutting board between the 2 'rails' so that it won't be moving about, and using my old workbench-planing-sled and a 1-1/4" mortising bit, I went at it taking ~1/32 passes until I was able to level out the board on one side, flipped it (and put a 1/8" masonite sheet under to lift it up a tad bit) and did the same thing to the other side to get a flat and parallel board - rough looking:

After that, I went back to hand planing it flush and smooth. still not an easy task, but at least the bulk of it was done. remember - bevel the edges slightly so that you don't chip it as your planing through it.

Now that I had a flat board to work with, I trimmed it on the TS tot make it square on all the edges so that I can edge treat it with the router table.

I then (finally since setting it halfway up) was able to utilize my router table and the LS positioner to get:

1. A nice consistent bevel around the edges (top and bottom)
2. fingers handles on both sides - this was real nice since I setup stops on left and right of the fence, and was basically following along, while taking 1/8" passes to get the total of ~2.5" deep pockets in a matter of seconds - no guessing, no remeasuring - once the stops were set, they kept their location throughout the entire process. I'm really liking this fence.
3. V shaped juice grooves. again - setting up the stops on both ends, and sneaking up on the final stops was easy with the precision of the Incra positioning method.

what I eventually got. was this:

A bit thinner than I had planned for, the geometry is a bit off from the original lines I had designed for it, but I think it came out great! I'm really liking this one, and the thickness actually looks more elegant than the original thicker design.

With a bit of mineral oil. this project was done and done, and can be seen here:



After applying the oil, the board twisted corner to corner. at first I freaked out, but then it hit me that this might be the effect of the oil and once it is fully absorbed evently, the board will naturally balance itself out - which it has, and is back to flat.

So, the project is done, Lessons learnt, Experience gained, and I'm pretty happy with it all. All in all, even though there was a lot of fixing and dealing with the improperly milled lumber - it was a fun project to work on, and I already have a couple more in mind.

Thanks for reading,
Peace.

Click to expand...

PurpLev said:

The Age of the Machines - Final milling and profiling

Disclaimer: This blog follows my Magen David Board that is already finished and posted here

Once everything was glued up into a single slab, it was time to plane it flat and parallel. one of the strips I jointed happen (don't ask me how…lol) to be jointed off square, throwing the last 4-5 strips in the glueup off flat (mostly flat). I was tired at this point, and just figured I'm not going to rejoint it, but will pay the price and plane it all down at the cost of having a thinner board - it didn't seem like it was going to take off too much material, but more than what I had hoped for.

I took the board to the garage, and went at it with hand planes. Unlike planing cross grain, planing end grain is a serious task, the bites are hard, the setting needs to be such that the plane will take ultra thin shavings in order for it to be able to handle the shearing force, and the lumber is not very friendly to the blades - I think now that I'm done I'll have to resharpen all plane blades just because of this one job.

I was able to decently plane most of the board down flat , but those last 4-5 strips were too low that I wanted to keep at it with this method.

The next day, I reconfigured my old drill press table that served me as a glueup guide, and was not setup as a planing base along with 2 jointed flat support boards that are slightly taller than my cutting board.

I shimmed the cutting board between the 2 'rails' so that it won't be moving about, and using my old workbench-planing-sled and a 1-1/4" mortising bit, I went at it taking ~1/32 passes until I was able to level out the board on one side, flipped it (and put a 1/8" masonite sheet under to lift it up a tad bit) and did the same thing to the other side to get a flat and parallel board - rough looking:

After that, I went back to hand planing it flush and smooth. still not an easy task, but at least the bulk of it was done. remember - bevel the edges slightly so that you don't chip it as your planing through it.

Now that I had a flat board to work with, I trimmed it on the TS tot make it square on all the edges so that I can edge treat it with the router table.

I then (finally since setting it halfway up) was able to utilize my router table and the LS positioner to get:

1. A nice consistent bevel around the edges (top and bottom)
2. fingers handles on both sides - this was real nice since I setup stops on left and right of the fence, and was basically following along, while taking 1/8" passes to get the total of ~2.5" deep pockets in a matter of seconds - no guessing, no remeasuring - once the stops were set, they kept their location throughout the entire process. I'm really liking this fence.
3. V shaped juice grooves. again - setting up the stops on both ends, and sneaking up on the final stops was easy with the precision of the Incra positioning method.

what I eventually got. was this:

A bit thinner than I had planned for, the geometry is a bit off from the original lines I had designed for it, but I think it came out great! I'm really liking this one, and the thickness actually looks more elegant than the original thicker design.

With a bit of mineral oil. this project was done and done, and can be seen here:



After applying the oil, the board twisted corner to corner. at first I freaked out, but then it hit me that this might be the effect of the oil and once it is fully absorbed evently, the board will naturally balance itself out - which it has, and is back to flat.

So, the project is done, Lessons learnt, Experience gained, and I'm pretty happy with it all. All in all, even though there was a lot of fixing and dealing with the improperly milled lumber - it was a fun project to work on, and I already have a couple more in mind.

Thanks for reading,
Peace.

Click to expand...

PurpLev said:

The Age of the Machines - Final milling and profiling

Disclaimer: This blog follows my Magen David Board that is already finished and posted here

Once everything was glued up into a single slab, it was time to plane it flat and parallel. one of the strips I jointed happen (don't ask me how…lol) to be jointed off square, throwing the last 4-5 strips in the glueup off flat (mostly flat). I was tired at this point, and just figured I'm not going to rejoint it, but will pay the price and plane it all down at the cost of having a thinner board - it didn't seem like it was going to take off too much material, but more than what I had hoped for.

I took the board to the garage, and went at it with hand planes. Unlike planing cross grain, planing end grain is a serious task, the bites are hard, the setting needs to be such that the plane will take ultra thin shavings in order for it to be able to handle the shearing force, and the lumber is not very friendly to the blades - I think now that I'm done I'll have to resharpen all plane blades just because of this one job.

I was able to decently plane most of the board down flat , but those last 4-5 strips were too low that I wanted to keep at it with this method.

The next day, I reconfigured my old drill press table that served me as a glueup guide, and was not setup as a planing base along with 2 jointed flat support boards that are slightly taller than my cutting board.

I shimmed the cutting board between the 2 'rails' so that it won't be moving about, and using my old workbench-planing-sled and a 1-1/4" mortising bit, I went at it taking ~1/32 passes until I was able to level out the board on one side, flipped it (and put a 1/8" masonite sheet under to lift it up a tad bit) and did the same thing to the other side to get a flat and parallel board - rough looking:

After that, I went back to hand planing it flush and smooth. still not an easy task, but at least the bulk of it was done. remember - bevel the edges slightly so that you don't chip it as your planing through it.

Now that I had a flat board to work with, I trimmed it on the TS tot make it square on all the edges so that I can edge treat it with the router table.

I then (finally since setting it halfway up) was able to utilize my router table and the LS positioner to get:

1. A nice consistent bevel around the edges (top and bottom)
2. fingers handles on both sides - this was real nice since I setup stops on left and right of the fence, and was basically following along, while taking 1/8" passes to get the total of ~2.5" deep pockets in a matter of seconds - no guessing, no remeasuring - once the stops were set, they kept their location throughout the entire process. I'm really liking this fence.
3. V shaped juice grooves. again - setting up the stops on both ends, and sneaking up on the final stops was easy with the precision of the Incra positioning method.

what I eventually got. was this:

A bit thinner than I had planned for, the geometry is a bit off from the original lines I had designed for it, but I think it came out great! I'm really liking this one, and the thickness actually looks more elegant than the original thicker design.

With a bit of mineral oil. this project was done and done, and can be seen here:



After applying the oil, the board twisted corner to corner. at first I freaked out, but then it hit me that this might be the effect of the oil and once it is fully absorbed evently, the board will naturally balance itself out - which it has, and is back to flat.

So, the project is done, Lessons learnt, Experience gained, and I'm pretty happy with it all. All in all, even though there was a lot of fixing and dealing with the improperly milled lumber - it was a fun project to work on, and I already have a couple more in mind.

Thanks for reading,
Peace.

Click to expand...

PurpLev said:

The Age of the Machines - Final milling and profiling

Disclaimer: This blog follows my Magen David Board that is already finished and posted here

Once everything was glued up into a single slab, it was time to plane it flat and parallel. one of the strips I jointed happen (don't ask me how…lol) to be jointed off square, throwing the last 4-5 strips in the glueup off flat (mostly flat). I was tired at this point, and just figured I'm not going to rejoint it, but will pay the price and plane it all down at the cost of having a thinner board - it didn't seem like it was going to take off too much material, but more than what I had hoped for.

I took the board to the garage, and went at it with hand planes. Unlike planing cross grain, planing end grain is a serious task, the bites are hard, the setting needs to be such that the plane will take ultra thin shavings in order for it to be able to handle the shearing force, and the lumber is not very friendly to the blades - I think now that I'm done I'll have to resharpen all plane blades just because of this one job.

I was able to decently plane most of the board down flat , but those last 4-5 strips were too low that I wanted to keep at it with this method.

The next day, I reconfigured my old drill press table that served me as a glueup guide, and was not setup as a planing base along with 2 jointed flat support boards that are slightly taller than my cutting board.

I shimmed the cutting board between the 2 'rails' so that it won't be moving about, and using my old workbench-planing-sled and a 1-1/4" mortising bit, I went at it taking ~1/32 passes until I was able to level out the board on one side, flipped it (and put a 1/8" masonite sheet under to lift it up a tad bit) and did the same thing to the other side to get a flat and parallel board - rough looking:

After that, I went back to hand planing it flush and smooth. still not an easy task, but at least the bulk of it was done. remember - bevel the edges slightly so that you don't chip it as your planing through it.

Now that I had a flat board to work with, I trimmed it on the TS tot make it square on all the edges so that I can edge treat it with the router table.

I then (finally since setting it halfway up) was able to utilize my router table and the LS positioner to get:

1. A nice consistent bevel around the edges (top and bottom)
2. fingers handles on both sides - this was real nice since I setup stops on left and right of the fence, and was basically following along, while taking 1/8" passes to get the total of ~2.5" deep pockets in a matter of seconds - no guessing, no remeasuring - once the stops were set, they kept their location throughout the entire process. I'm really liking this fence.
3. V shaped juice grooves. again - setting up the stops on both ends, and sneaking up on the final stops was easy with the precision of the Incra positioning method.

what I eventually got. was this:

A bit thinner than I had planned for, the geometry is a bit off from the original lines I had designed for it, but I think it came out great! I'm really liking this one, and the thickness actually looks more elegant than the original thicker design.

With a bit of mineral oil. this project was done and done, and can be seen here:



After applying the oil, the board twisted corner to corner. at first I freaked out, but then it hit me that this might be the effect of the oil and once it is fully absorbed evently, the board will naturally balance itself out - which it has, and is back to flat.

So, the project is done, Lessons learnt, Experience gained, and I'm pretty happy with it all. All in all, even though there was a lot of fixing and dealing with the improperly milled lumber - it was a fun project to work on, and I already have a couple more in mind.

Thanks for reading,
Peace.

Click to expand...

PurpLev said:

The Age of the Machines - Final milling and profiling

Disclaimer: This blog follows my Magen David Board that is already finished and posted here

Once everything was glued up into a single slab, it was time to plane it flat and parallel. one of the strips I jointed happen (don't ask me how…lol) to be jointed off square, throwing the last 4-5 strips in the glueup off flat (mostly flat). I was tired at this point, and just figured I'm not going to rejoint it, but will pay the price and plane it all down at the cost of having a thinner board - it didn't seem like it was going to take off too much material, but more than what I had hoped for.

I took the board to the garage, and went at it with hand planes. Unlike planing cross grain, planing end grain is a serious task, the bites are hard, the setting needs to be such that the plane will take ultra thin shavings in order for it to be able to handle the shearing force, and the lumber is not very friendly to the blades - I think now that I'm done I'll have to resharpen all plane blades just because of this one job.

I was able to decently plane most of the board down flat , but those last 4-5 strips were too low that I wanted to keep at it with this method.

The next day, I reconfigured my old drill press table that served me as a glueup guide, and was not setup as a planing base along with 2 jointed flat support boards that are slightly taller than my cutting board.

I shimmed the cutting board between the 2 'rails' so that it won't be moving about, and using my old workbench-planing-sled and a 1-1/4" mortising bit, I went at it taking ~1/32 passes until I was able to level out the board on one side, flipped it (and put a 1/8" masonite sheet under to lift it up a tad bit) and did the same thing to the other side to get a flat and parallel board - rough looking:

After that, I went back to hand planing it flush and smooth. still not an easy task, but at least the bulk of it was done. remember - bevel the edges slightly so that you don't chip it as your planing through it.

Now that I had a flat board to work with, I trimmed it on the TS tot make it square on all the edges so that I can edge treat it with the router table.

I then (finally since setting it halfway up) was able to utilize my router table and the LS positioner to get:

1. A nice consistent bevel around the edges (top and bottom)
2. fingers handles on both sides - this was real nice since I setup stops on left and right of the fence, and was basically following along, while taking 1/8" passes to get the total of ~2.5" deep pockets in a matter of seconds - no guessing, no remeasuring - once the stops were set, they kept their location throughout the entire process. I'm really liking this fence.
3. V shaped juice grooves. again - setting up the stops on both ends, and sneaking up on the final stops was easy with the precision of the Incra positioning method.

what I eventually got. was this:

A bit thinner than I had planned for, the geometry is a bit off from the original lines I had designed for it, but I think it came out great! I'm really liking this one, and the thickness actually looks more elegant than the original thicker design.

With a bit of mineral oil. this project was done and done, and can be seen here:



After applying the oil, the board twisted corner to corner. at first I freaked out, but then it hit me that this might be the effect of the oil and once it is fully absorbed evently, the board will naturally balance itself out - which it has, and is back to flat.

So, the project is done, Lessons learnt, Experience gained, and I'm pretty happy with it all. All in all, even though there was a lot of fixing and dealing with the improperly milled lumber - it was a fun project to work on, and I already have a couple more in mind.

Thanks for reading,
Peace.

Click to expand...

PurpLev said:

The Age of the Machines - Final milling and profiling

Disclaimer: This blog follows my Magen David Board that is already finished and posted here

Once everything was glued up into a single slab, it was time to plane it flat and parallel. one of the strips I jointed happen (don't ask me how…lol) to be jointed off square, throwing the last 4-5 strips in the glueup off flat (mostly flat). I was tired at this point, and just figured I'm not going to rejoint it, but will pay the price and plane it all down at the cost of having a thinner board - it didn't seem like it was going to take off too much material, but more than what I had hoped for.

I took the board to the garage, and went at it with hand planes. Unlike planing cross grain, planing end grain is a serious task, the bites are hard, the setting needs to be such that the plane will take ultra thin shavings in order for it to be able to handle the shearing force, and the lumber is not very friendly to the blades - I think now that I'm done I'll have to resharpen all plane blades just because of this one job.

I was able to decently plane most of the board down flat , but those last 4-5 strips were too low that I wanted to keep at it with this method.

The next day, I reconfigured my old drill press table that served me as a glueup guide, and was not setup as a planing base along with 2 jointed flat support boards that are slightly taller than my cutting board.

I shimmed the cutting board between the 2 'rails' so that it won't be moving about, and using my old workbench-planing-sled and a 1-1/4" mortising bit, I went at it taking ~1/32 passes until I was able to level out the board on one side, flipped it (and put a 1/8" masonite sheet under to lift it up a tad bit) and did the same thing to the other side to get a flat and parallel board - rough looking:

After that, I went back to hand planing it flush and smooth. still not an easy task, but at least the bulk of it was done. remember - bevel the edges slightly so that you don't chip it as your planing through it.

Now that I had a flat board to work with, I trimmed it on the TS tot make it square on all the edges so that I can edge treat it with the router table.

I then (finally since setting it halfway up) was able to utilize my router table and the LS positioner to get:

1. A nice consistent bevel around the edges (top and bottom)
2. fingers handles on both sides - this was real nice since I setup stops on left and right of the fence, and was basically following along, while taking 1/8" passes to get the total of ~2.5" deep pockets in a matter of seconds - no guessing, no remeasuring - once the stops were set, they kept their location throughout the entire process. I'm really liking this fence.
3. V shaped juice grooves. again - setting up the stops on both ends, and sneaking up on the final stops was easy with the precision of the Incra positioning method.

what I eventually got. was this:

A bit thinner than I had planned for, the geometry is a bit off from the original lines I had designed for it, but I think it came out great! I'm really liking this one, and the thickness actually looks more elegant than the original thicker design.

With a bit of mineral oil. this project was done and done, and can be seen here:



After applying the oil, the board twisted corner to corner. at first I freaked out, but then it hit me that this might be the effect of the oil and once it is fully absorbed evently, the board will naturally balance itself out - which it has, and is back to flat.

So, the project is done, Lessons learnt, Experience gained, and I'm pretty happy with it all. All in all, even though there was a lot of fixing and dealing with the improperly milled lumber - it was a fun project to work on, and I already have a couple more in mind.

Thanks for reading,
Peace.

Click to expand...