Disclaimer: This blog follows my Magen David Board that is already finished and posted here
Once everything was glued up into a single slab, it was time to plane it flat and parallel. one of the strips I jointed happen (don’t ask me how…lol) to be jointed off square, throwing the last 4-5 strips in the glueup off flat (mostly flat). I was tired at this point, and just figured I’m not going to rejoint it, but will pay the price and plane it all down at the cost of having a thinner board – it didn’t seem like it was going to take off too much material, but more than what I had hoped for.
I took the board to the garage, and went at it with hand planes. Unlike planing cross grain, planing end grain is a serious task, the bites are hard, the setting needs to be such that the plane will take ultra thin shavings in order for it to be able to handle the shearing force, and the lumber is not very friendly to the blades – I think now that I’m done I’ll have to resharpen all plane blades just because of this one job.
I was able to decently plane most of the board down flat , but those last 4-5 strips were too low that I wanted to keep at it with this method.
The next day, I reconfigured my old drill press table that served me as a glueup guide, and was not setup as a planing base along with 2 jointed flat support boards that are slightly taller than my cutting board.
I shimmed the cutting board between the 2 ‘rails’ so that it won’t be moving about, and using my old workbench-planing-sled and a 1-1/4” mortising bit, I went at it taking ~1/32 passes until I was able to level out the board on one side, flipped it (and put a 1/8” masonite sheet under to lift it up a tad bit) and did the same thing to the other side to get a flat and parallel board – rough looking:
After that, I went back to hand planing it flush and smooth. still not an easy task, but at least the bulk of it was done. remember – bevel the edges slightly so that you don’t chip it as your planing through it.
Now that I had a flat board to work with, I trimmed it on the TS tot make it square on all the edges so that I can edge treat it with the router table.I then (finally since setting it halfway up) was able to utilize my router table and the LS positioner to get:
- A nice consistent bevel around the edges (top and bottom)
- fingers handles on both sides – this was real nice since I setup stops on left and right of the fence, and was basically following along, while taking 1/8” passes to get the total of ~2.5” deep pockets in a matter of seconds – no guessing, no remeasuring – once the stops were set, they kept their location throughout the entire process. I’m really liking this fence.
- V shaped juice grooves. again – setting up the stops on both ends, and sneaking up on the final stops was easy with the precision of the Incra positioning method.
what I eventually got. was this:
A bit thinner than I had planned for, the geometry is a bit off from the original lines I had designed for it, but I think it came out great! I’m really liking this one, and the thickness actually looks more elegant than the original thicker design.
With a bit of mineral oil. this project was done and done, and can be seen here:
After applying the oil, the board twisted corner to corner. at first I freaked out, but then it hit me that this might be the effect of the oil and once it is fully absorbed evently, the board will naturally balance itself out – which it has, and is back to flat.
So, the project is done, Lessons learnt, Experience gained, and I’m pretty happy with it all. All in all, even though there was a lot of fixing and dealing with the improperly milled lumber – it was a fun project to work on, and I already have a couple more in mind.
Thanks for reading,
-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.