Router Table #7: Drawers Under the Weather

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Blog entry by PurpLev posted 01-04-2010 04:27 AM 4530 reads 0 times favorited 13 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 6: Cast(ers) Away Part 7 of Router Table series Part 8: Insert an Insert an Insert an Insert an.... »

and I mean literally – we’ve had a snow storm here, and the garage is covered with more than a foot of snow.

It was blazing outside and the high winds were blowing snow all over the place. my garage is unheated, but neither of those stopped me from making the most I could with an open window of time I got this weekend.

I caved in, and ordered an Incra router plate for the top when they just posted the phenolic version on sale for $35 (they had a 10% off last week). I really like the magnalock concept, but wasn’t about to spend $90 on a plate (their aluminum plate is priced that way)... anyways to make story short. I can’t continue with work on the top as I’m waiting for the plate to arrive so that I can make a template, and install it in the top.

Instead, I undid the face frame, and replaced the shelf under the router which was originally a masonite sheet with a full 3/4” plywood for some added ridgidity, and also to seal the router enclosure better for DC purposes. then I glued and screwed the face frame back on. and added triangular bracket on all the corners which will secure the top in place later on.

Originally I was planning to use the router table to make the drawers with dovetail joinery and test my incra-jig while at it. but since I had this time window today, and no router table, and no top to work on (waiting for plate) I decided to forgo the dovetailed drawers idea, and make use of the 1/2” plywood scraps I have, which also helps clear some more space. I’ll use dovetails for something more meaningful in the future :)

I installed all the slides, and then started making the drawers. so far I only have 2 as these are all different heights so I’m limited with the amount of automation I can use.

I used is simple lock-rabbet joinery for the drawers, and went REAL simple on it since it’ll have drawer fronts to cover it all up. I just wanted something fast that will hold the drawers well:

lock rabbet joinery on drawers

then I covered both TS and router cabinet with masonite sheets, and it was glueup:

drawers glueup

At these temperatures, glueup takes a bit longer.. but then again – I’m not sure when I’ll get another time window to continue this – I’m pretty sure it’ll be glued up by then :)

I’ll take the clamps off tomorrow though.

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

13 comments so far

View Tim Dahn's profile

Tim Dahn

1568 posts in 3713 days

#1 posted 01-04-2010 04:50 AM

Take the shop time when you can get it. Looking good. I feel for you with the cold shop, our 2+ feet of snow from Dec. 19 has ceased melting as it was 11 whole degrees this morning, never made above freezing today.

-- Good judgement comes from experience and experience comes from poor judgement.

View blackcherry's profile


3338 posts in 3971 days

#2 posted 01-04-2010 04:59 AM

Nice to hear you when with the plate…it more work but well worth it in the long run..Blkcherry

View sIKE's profile


1271 posts in 3902 days

#3 posted 01-04-2010 05:00 AM


I haven’t been able to comment on the entire blog, but your progress is great and you will be happy with it when you are done. Make sure that you keep your top nice and flat!

-- //FC - Round Rock, TX - "Experience is what you get just after you need it"

View jlsmith5963's profile


297 posts in 3497 days

#4 posted 01-04-2010 08:23 AM

Although its a little late to be saying anything the issue of gluing in the cold was in the most recent issue of FW:

Titebond III: “47°” Titebond II: 55º F, and Titebond Original, Carpenters glue, liquid hide glue, and polyurethane must be above 50º. Below this, the glue dries white and powdery instead of transparent, and has virtually no bond strength.

Cyanoacrylate (“Super Glue”) also is not suitable for applications in the 40° to 45º range. Some epoxies work, but take much longer than normal to cure. Gorilla Glue polyurethane can handle 40°, but the cure time also is slower.

-- criticism: the art of analyzing and evaluating the quality of an artistic work...

View PurpLev's profile


8540 posts in 3797 days

#5 posted 01-04-2010 08:26 AM

hmm… I guess It’ll have to be reglued then. I’ll check for strength when I take off the clamps, if I can open it by sheer force – I’ll wait for a warmer day. thanks for the info. I’ll check out the article.

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

View PurpLev's profile


8540 posts in 3797 days

#6 posted 01-04-2010 08:50 AM

Thanks jlsmith!
went and checked FW glue at low temp article and some other glue articles they have – thanks for the info, I never would have thought about this. gonna keep this in mind for future reference – maybe have a heated area for glueups, or take glueups into the house/basement

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

View degoose's profile


7238 posts in 3503 days

#7 posted 01-04-2010 12:13 PM

I too cant wait to see this completed.. I am in the market for a new router table set up and am leaning to the Incra fence system and maybe a router lift..

-- Don't drink and use power tools @

View naomi weiss's profile

naomi weiss

207 posts in 3542 days

#8 posted 01-04-2010 01:07 PM

looks great so far. can’t wait to see the finished table.

-- 'Humility is a duty in great ones, as well as in idiots'--Jeremy Taylor

View ellen35's profile


2738 posts in 3581 days

#9 posted 01-04-2010 01:39 PM

Lookin’ good! Looking forward to the finished table… if it is anything like your workbench, it will
be heavy!
We didn’t get quite as much snow as you, but Cape Cod sure is cold!

-- "Don't let the perfect be the enemy of the good." Voltaire

View Craftsman on the lake's profile

Craftsman on the lake

2810 posts in 3586 days

#10 posted 01-04-2010 03:37 PM

Been offline for a couple of days and saw your glue postings. I did the cold glue up one day. Decided not to heat up the shop just for a few glue joints. They seemed to be ok but came apart later. Titebond, if does right never comes apart in my experience so I attribute it to the glue.

Glue tip: I buy titebond in gallon jugs. It’s just so much cheaper that way but once you make that airspace at the top by pouring some off into a smaller bottle to use it slowly gets thicker and thicker. After awhile what’s left in the gallon jug is unusable. My solution? Once I pour a pint off to use from the jug I use a funnel and pour the rest into 8 or 12 ounce coke bottles. I fill them right to the top and tighten the cap. No air, no thickening. Of course I keep my glue in the house where it won’t freeze.

-- The smell of wood, coffee in the cup, the wife let's me do my thing, the lake is peaceful.

View PurpLev's profile


8540 posts in 3797 days

#11 posted 01-04-2010 04:19 PM

thanks everyone – I too can’t wait to see the finished table :)

Daniel – I just posted about it yesterday on the recycling thread – I recycle boars-head mustard bottles from the office’s cafeteria as glue bottles. why boars-head ? first – cause I like their products ;) but to the point – they have a small bottle with a large opening cap that is easy to feel. I pick them up whenever the cafeteria has an empty one, and reuse them when empty after cleaning them with some soap and water. I recycle them with the rest of the plastics when they are too beat up (hasn’t happen yet).

all the glues go back into the heated house with me everytime I use them in the shop.

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

View PurpLev's profile


8540 posts in 3797 days

#12 posted 01-05-2010 05:12 PM

checked the drawers yesterday after work, and they are rock solid. I put some serious sheer force trying to open them up and break the glue but it didn’t budge. one less thing to worry about.

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

View jlsmith5963's profile


297 posts in 3497 days

#13 posted 01-08-2010 02:30 AM

Good to hear the glue didn’t fail.

-- criticism: the art of analyzing and evaluating the quality of an artistic work...

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