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113K views 249 replies 77 participants last post by  KathVent 
#1 ·
Design ideas, need some feedback

OK, so yeah - another blog about a router table, but since I'm going to make one , might as well document it while I go, maybe someone can benefit from this.

I've had a Rockler router table top + plate + fence which I got when I bought my router (Bosch 2 1/4hp). It had the misfurtune of being on the floor when my basement was flooded a couple of years ago, so that top was ruined. I since have been planning to replace it with a shop-built version, and make a full enclosed cabinet for it at the same time… it's been a while… I have finally started putting the thought into ink (so to speak).

for the longest time (seriously) I have been keeping my eye open for material for the top that will be:
1. Flat
2. Weather resistant (mostly to water/moisture)
3. Smooth
4. Thick
5. Inexpensive

5 things, that when combined together don't really go together hand in hand with what's on the market. so I waited for a long time till last week I had my hands on a 1 3/8" Canvas Phenolic board 35"x36" - perfect size, perfect width, smooth, flat, and workable. AND, can handle the weather better than wood/MDF/Fiberboard would.

This thing though is crazy heavy, I can hardly lift it myself.

So I started designing how I'd cut the top and make use of it for an Incra Fence. I will eventually like to get an LS positioner (17") but at the moment I just dont have any more funds to contribute to any of that, so I have to settle for a garage-sale found Original Incra Jig that I found for $20.

THOUGHT #1 (Feedback most welcome):
As much as I'd like to incorporate a router lift into this table, I just cannot spend any more money right now, and getting a $300 lift and plate is out of the question. I thought about getting a similar size plate for ~$40 and use that as a 'temporary' place holder until I can afford a lift, but I could also just mount my fixed base of the router (that would otherwise be mounted to the plate) directly to the table top, and route a small 4"x4" hole for a shop-made insert that I can close in around the bits:



I've seen other's have similar setup. my only concern is how easy access to the router would be. any takes on this? would you prefer to have a removeable plate? would you rather have the router mounted directly to the table top?

THOUGHT #2 (Feedback most welcome):
The other things I'm contemplating is how extreme I should go with supporting that top. my initial design is a torsion-box structure under the plate that will support the top throughout the plane, and will help avoid low/high spots in the long run (also will hide the electrical switch and cables in it):



Am I going overboard here? is this too much? I guess in this respect, I'd rather go overboard today, then wish I had added that extra support further down the line. should I enclose the torsion structure from underneath, or just leave it 'open' as it?

Thanks in Advance for all responses, and comments. I'm really excited about finally getting this project going, and can't wait to actually have a router table again to use.
 
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#27 ·
A further thought on the Router Plate:

I don't have absolute faith in someone else's measurements. I don't know if that person is as picky as me, and I also don't know if their measuring instruments are exactly the same as mine. When last was your tape measure calibrated LOL Mine never has been. I know for a fact that my two 5m tape measures are at least 0.5mm per 1m different from each other. I always stay with one tape measure for an entire project for that reason.

I know you don't want to shell out for the Lift now, but I suggest you buy their template now before you cut into your nice new phenolic top. You don't want to find out that the hole is 0.5mm oversize after you buy the Lift.

Maybe I'm just picky, but I'm and engineer - I'm supposed to be LOL
 
#28 ·
FWIW - I can't see spending big bucks for a router lift.
My router table, http://lumberjocks.com/jocks/JohnGray/blog/5615, I did not use a lift. When I want to change or recalibrate a bit I simply unplug the router, remove the plate and router, take it to the bench, and do whatever is needed. When it's on the bench it's easier to see what you are doing than having to fiddle with it in the table.
 
#29 ·
John, I think that It's a matter of convenience and personal preference mostly. for me I find it much easier to be able to sneak up on cuts and fine tune depth of cuts with a turn of a dial as opposed to getting to the router, unlocking the depth fastener, changing height of cutter, locking router again, and repeat… Also to change bits without having to pull the router out, taking it out of the plate base, and returning everything to it's proper place… just a matter of convenience I guess and personal preference.
 
#31 ·
OK, so based on your feedback guys (Thank you so much) I think I'll make my own phenolic plate and see how that will work for the time being. I'll make it the same size as the pinnacle/woodpecker plate so that if I ever want to upgrade it'll be an easy swap. I placed the plate 6" from the left side of the table which I think will be a good amount of support, and will also give me enough space on the right size to fit an Incra LS17" in the future should I decide to do so. the fit will be marginal, but it will be possible.

I also removed most of the grid support, and stuck with 4 lateral ribs that will help even out the support for the top and all. and I also moved the middle panel more to the left - reducing the size of the cabinet for the motor (doesn't really need that much room, and will make dust extraction easier and more efficient) and enlarging the other side that will be made for storage/drawers:



Note the "place holder" on top of the table top - this is a template I made from Incra online info regarding space required for the LS17" positioner - looks like it'll fit in there, maybe protrude a bit from the back, but there's little I can do about that.



Thank you everyone that posted, and offered insights and suggestions!
 
#32 ·
If you haven't started construction yet I have one more idea for you. Construct a basic torsion frame for the top, attach it to the top and surface mount your router, then hinge the whole thing. It's a design I saw in "Woodworking With The Router" by Bill Hylton, an excellent book. Of course you'd have to find or make some pretty serious supports for when the top is lifted, but that shouldn't be too hard.

Just a thought.
-Sean
 
#33 ·
Thanks Sean, I actually saw someone online doing a similar thing and thought it's a cool idea ( the hinge), I may just incorporate that into the top as I have 3 spare door hinges laying around. About the Torsion-box idea - since I already have the thick top, I dont think I'll want to replace it with a torsion-box, and since it's phenolic board and not wood, it'll be impossible to glue this thing properly as part of a torsion box (and In my case, I dont think this will be necessary), so I'll stick with the support beams under, and the top resting on those.
 
#35 ·
I built a router table which you can see at www.woodshopics.com. I wanted a longer table to support my work so I took one of Norm Abrams plans and altered it as you can see if you visit my website. It's build mainly from 3/4" maple plywood with some maple trim. I used Woodpecker's router lift which I have been very happy with. I was concerned about building the fence out of MDF but it has worked perfectly. First, I purchased the fine grain MDF and covered the appropriated faces with formica. The fence is accurate, easy to move and will handle tall stuff. The extra plate on the table is nice to house a router with a roundover bit which I seem to use all the time. I have an extra blank plate with I can insert in place of the router plate with the router with a roundover bit. Any questions, you can email me at woodshopbits@gmail.com
 
#36 ·
Ok, I'm sorry, I just don't get it. What is it with these "position systems" and "router lifts?" I pop out my base plate, grab a couple of wrenches, change the bit, set the depth dump the whole mess back into the table clamp the end of the fence on, set the width of the cut, clamp on the other end, adjust judiciously lock 'er down and away I go molding the edge of a board that I could do with a bearing on a bit. Wherein comes the need for 1/1000ths inch precision on something that will move that much in a minute or less?

If you were using a router lathe and that 3', three rope, unsupported twist with the ball in the middle decided to move 1/1000ths of an inch you wouldn't notice it let alone do something about it.

I need some hard facts to sell me on the idea that a micrometer positioned router fence means a whole lot. I can get an accurate adjustment, a whole lot quicker with a hammer.

This is in no way a criticism of anyone but more an expression of my frustration. I need help setting the hook on a scraper because my hook is too thin not what is the latest toy. I get that in the wood shows.

Sorry Mick. Venting!
 
#37 ·
no worries- as you said, for me it's not really about the 'need', but more about the want. is it a toy? definitely. does it help me out? yes it does. I don't get to spend much shop time, so I do, I want to be able to set things quickly and continue where I left off - few days/weeks/months ago with little fuss as possible. I also like the possibilities this precision presents for joinery which although not impossible - but harder without it.

when you think about it - even a router is not really needed. one really can make anything with just a chisel and mallet (even that can be argued) - it's all about convenience, and preferences. to each their own.
 
#38 ·
Hey A. venting is an allthunbs tradition. Why stop now? I agree partially. Most folks don't need that micro-ability for what they do. But when one is making finger joints, or some other more complicated work, that fancy Incra or Jointech sure makes the whole process so much simpler and less worrisome.
 
#39 ·
I learned to use measuring blocks. More accurate, (don't think rules and scales are accurate) a lot faster, and less error prone. Combined with my fine adjusting tool (a 16 oz hammer) you can't find a faster, more accurate measuring method for routers.

Turners-you're on your own.
 
#40 ·
I must say that I partially agree that rulers and scales shouldn't be completely trusted in the shop - but the scales on the positioners are not intended to find that exact 1.001" from the edge of a board - but repeatability and the ability to get back to the exact same position over and over again - regardless of where it is in terms of distance/numerical value. actually - the templates don't have any numbers on them - only reference marks that you can come back to even after doing a different operation with the router table.

like any other power tool in the shop - it's all about repeatability, and consistency without having to pull out that measuring block for each and every cut you make. I am in no way an advocate for Incra- but with all due respect, I highly doubt you could compete with the positioner with your measuring blocks and hammer for intricate joinery work. again - the strength of these really pops up when you focus on those projects more than edge treatment, In which case they really may not justify their price and space.
 
#41 ·
Hi PurpLev:

I have 3 four foot scales in my shop. I compared each measurement to a 6" digital micrometer. None of the scales, except my father's pre-war 4 foot, is accurate. I have one 39" (metre stick) that is out almost 1/8" over it's length. None of my tape measures are usable either for any more than close guesswork.

My measuring blocks are sold as being +/- 2 thou and the 3-2-1 block is sold as accurate to 2/10000 (Lee valley part no. 05n58.01).

My measurement technique is to place the extreme tip of the cutting edge against the block with barely a bit of resistance between them. I certainly can't be out more than 5/1000ths repeatedly. I've tried repeatability tests with rules and even using ruler stops, I can't get better.

I do pull out the measuring blocks for every measurement. Along with an optical centre they are in constant use in my shop. I figure I can add enough error on my own, I don't need my tools adding to the confusion.
 
#42 ·
I fully agree with you on scales varying in measurements between one another - a good reason not to rely on the numbers, and if you must - then always use the same ruler for all the measurements of a given project.

a 3-2-1 block is a fantastic tool.

however my point was - in order to make a double dovetail jointed 12"x12"x10" box a positioner system makes things easier - just 1 example. FYI - there are 0 numbers used for measurements when making that box. you are not taking measurements, and not positioning anything to a known numerical distance value, but the ability of the fence to get to specific cut locations time and time again without having to measure even once is fantastic.
 
#43 ·
I went to see Woodhacker's article on "hand cut double dovetail experiment" to see how you're using the fence or position-er. All I got was "Upgrade to Pro today! Bandwidth Exceeded." It must be a Micro$oft service. May I suggest Picasa.

PurpLev, I need a lesson in double dovetails. Could you oblige please. I'm still trying to figure out where a setup block is less effective than a thumb screw.
 
#44 ·
Iallthunbs, I think Woodhacker either removed his pics from photobucket, removed his account with them. he did however do a really good job. that said. it did take him a while to make it. nothing is impossible -it's all matter of personal choice how to do things.

If you are so inclined - you can check Incra's website, they have all the demos there on how the positioner is used. I don't really like to think that I market for them - just another happy customer that appreciate their products.
 
#45 ·
The Motor's In - Triton 3.25hp TRC001 1/2" Precision Router

It really started a while back, I got hooked on the idea of a router lift for the table after seeing the Incra Router lift with the magnetic inserts. after that the obsession was fed by finding Woodpeckers' router lifts with the quick release mechanism which allows for quick lift of the router to rough positioning, and for pulling it all the way up for over the table bit change.

then came the Woodpeckers PRL-V2 (also rebranded by Incra with their magnetic inserts, and recently also rebranded by Kreg tools.) which blew me away. I'll admit it - I'm very mechanical and electronic and I love those devices.

my barrier was the $300 price. which for my 'serious' hobby, I cannot justify at the moment - same goes with the Incra LS-TS fence which I would really like, and this router table is designed for - yet, just cannot justify the expense.

Then came the Rockler sale for their (Jessem) router lift. it was (still is) affordable, yet does not have the quick lift feature for rough positioning and over the table bit change. so, no go for me.

Then came the Woodcraft sale for the Triton 3.25hp router, which caught my eye, but wasn't enough to make me consider it too seriously. Thanks to Daniel (LJ craftsman-on-the-lake) who brought it back to mind as he started a discussion about it here. reading through reviews, it seemed like a good unit, at a great price. it can be used in a router table, and has built in lift mechanism, has both rough positioning and fine tune positioning possibilities, and has above table bit change feature using only 1 wrench (auto collet lock). this will also be a more powerful motor for use under the table (as opposed to my 2.25hp bosch) and will also free up my bosch for free hand work.

however, I figured there must be a reason why they updated that router model (hence the old model was on sale).

further researching showed that the new model also comes with above table crank handle. for some this is no biggy, but since I plan on enclosing the router in the table, I figured this might come in handy. also the router received some upgraded design and parts, such as sealed power switch (If it's enclosed in the table, I'd rather have it sealed from dust), the lift plastic gear has been replaced with a metal gear, the lift bushing has been updated for smoother travel, and the collet reducer (for 1/4" bits) have been changed for better use.

I figured the extra is worth my peace of mind, and made the plunge (pun intended) and ordered it from woodcraft.com. we're in the holiday season and they have free shipping on everything which was a nice bonus. (woodcraft don't carry this router locally here).

The router arrived one day earlier than expected. I have yet to use it, but my first impression is a positive one- it feels comfortable in my hand, heavier than my 2.25 Bosch, but not overly heavy that it would feel uncomfortable. all the mechanisms work pretty nicely.



All in all, it's an expense that I wasn't really planning to make, but am very happy with it as this will allow me to continue with the router table project, and get something that will work as I wanted it, with the lift capabilities I was hoping for, a bigger motor than I would have had until now, at a low(er) cost than other options would have cost me.

Triton seems to be controversial as they went under last year, and were resurrected, they have minimal online resources, and seems like there are still some things floating around. hopefully I can add a bit more content online regarding this unit.

I'll review this router as I get to use it for making the router table (I will use this one freehand as opposed to using my lighter bosch just so that I can get a feel for how this one performs while I can still do something about it).

This router table project feels stuck, I have so many ideas for it. maybe too many that I'm overloaded, and can't find a combination of them all that I would like. uughhh…
 
#60 ·
Simplifying and Completing the Design

Finally had a weekend with shop time, but alas - mother nature had other plans.

Saturday was 14 degrees (F). a bit on the chilly side of things, but I figured I need to make use of that time. so I took out the phenolic sheet (36"x36") and marked it for both 24" width and 28" width. I wanted to get a visual representation of the actual top size. the 28" looked a bit too wide in sketchup, and the 24" is the "standard" when you purchase a top. looking at both marked sized the 28" does looks somewhat too wide, and does not conform to the golden-aspect but the 24" was too narrow especially considering the cabinet space I want to have underneath. I decided on the 28" and made the cut.

I dont like working with phenolic. I really dont. the dust gets on everything, and is super fine. I worked outside with mask/goggles on and made sure garage doors are closed, it still made a mess on everything. I then vaccumed the remains. if it was a warmer day - I might have also air-blow clean my tools (circ-saw) but in such cold temp. my air compressor won't compress air. it'll run and run and run, but the pressure in the tank won't rise- seems like the air is leaking from the actual motor or the motor is not even capable if compressing the cold air. sucks - but that's the DCs job. oh well. have to clean it up when it warms up a bit (summer?)

because of the phenolic dust - I did not have my cam with me, so pics of the top will only be seen later. I took the top and put it on saw horses in the garage which I re-organized to make room for the router table - It will be positioned as an outfeed table for the TS.

Sunday was a bit warmer, but the 8" of snow kept me from getting to the garage. instead, it was snow throwing day. it was snowing for most of the day, and I did not care much for the idea of being inside the garage when snow might be blowing in (cracked window, under garage door)... instead, I figured I might make use of the time to finalize the design in Sketchup and get mentally prepared for the parts I need to make.

This is what I came up with:


the triton router will be mounted directly to the top with no plate - if It doesnt work out I can always cut the opening bigger to drop in a plate later on. under the router there will be a pullout shelf that can house the 2 routers I have for storage. and a set of drawers on the other side for everything router related (layout tools, bits, inserts, jogs, accessories, etc), the shelf under the router is slanted towards the back for DC purposes:


what I like about sketchup, is how it makes things easier, when I can explode a view and get a simpler idea of the parts I need to make, their sizes, and hole/alignment locations:


for lack of materials, I may replace the full sized 3/4" thick back piece, with 3 narrower parts, and cover it up with 1/4" ply/masonite to cover the seams. I don't really want to get a full sheet just for that missing part.

I'll let this image settle in a little, and this week hopefully drive this project from start to end during the xmas days off from work.
 
#61 ·
Sharon,
What do you mean whining about blowing 8" of snow!! We down here on the Cape are shoveling 20 inches!
Nevertheless, nice sketch-up drawings.
Hope to see the real thing soon.
Happy holidays.
Ellen
 
#87 ·
cabinet frame started

Started last night, I remembered that I forgot (go figure) the glue in the garage last time I used it (in the summer) so I went to bring it into the house so that it can defrost overnight as I planned on using it today.

I got out of the house today and it felt so nice… kinda warm… 32 degrees (F, 0 degree C) didn't even need gloves. amazing what a couple of weeks in 12F can do to you.

I was planning to have most of the long weekend dedicated for this project, but as things seem, this may not be the case anymore. I was contemplating whether to even start this, as I don't want to have to leave it half made, but ended up starting it after all.

I made another view in Sketchup of the carcass parts, printed it out, and took it with me so that I can have a reference to work against, and a paper to note things on:



As it happen, I already altered the height of the parts by 3/8" making it slightly lower than originally planned.

my plywood source is leftovers from past projects, so I'm half improvising. the project I got the plywood from is an old project that was done with a circular saw- it's quite amazing to see now how unstraight my cut lines used to be… made it quite hard to rip and cut the pieces on the TS this time around. but close enough is good enough for this project. I also don't have a large enough piece for the back, and will have to make the back from 2 pieces one on top of the other:



all in all, it's about half of what I expected to accomplish today, but it's better than nothing.

I did get to use the triton router freehand, and although it has some things that could use refinement, it does perform very well, and since it'll be perm. in the table, I think I'll be ok.

you can also see the phenolic top in it's planned position (albeit lower than it supposed to be)

Peace.
 
#88 ·
Looks good and I am sure it will turn out great. Looks like you have done due diligence in your planning. I sort of just threw our router table together on the 'fly'.

I like the part about getting 1/2 done what you wanted to. That is our daily routine. I always end up taking much more time then anticipated. If I say 1 day, then it is probably going to take me 2 days.

Jerry
 
#103 ·
Half Throttle - Cabinet is Framed!

I picked up today where I left yesterday. today however, I had a bit more time to work on this. I printed the face frame design/layout from Sketchup, and out to the freezer we go:



I added the 2nd piece that makes up the back (had to use 2 pieces of plywood as I don't have 1 large enough part for the back), and then I noticed that my plywood carcass is a bit out of wack- the back aligns with the left side, but the right side is a bit lower, ah crap, I guess I'll have to shimmy shim the thing after all. I know where I messed up - I started putting the parts together in the wrong order, starting with the bottom and back, then had to align the left and right to 2 parts each. I should have started with the left-back-right, and align the bottom to all 3 parts which would then be align a the top… oh well, too late for me now.

Another unfortunate thing happened today. I am using pocket holes (and glue) for the construction of the carcass and face frame. somewhere towards the end of the carcass build my drill-bit-stop was pushed up (I guess it lost it's grip) and the last part in the carcass was drilled too deep!!!!! which means, that the pocket screws once driven all the way in, end up being driven through the 2nd part, and are left with their tip exposed. I only discovered it later on after I placed the cabinet on my table saw, and felt it 'grip' the top of my TS - made some nasty scratches in the granite :( it's only visual, and minor, and easily fixed with epoxy, but I would have had it better if it didn't happen at all. just something to keep an eye on when doing pocket holes… uuuuggggghhhhh. I wonder what would have happened with Cast Iron - would it scratch as well?

so, aside from the scratches on the granite, and the low right side which will need to be trimmed and shimmed to match the rest of the cabinet to make it steady, and have a good support for the top, It ended up pretty nice. this sucker is getting heavy, and from now on (after I put the casters on) will stay on the ground:



In terms of progress, I'm at the end of day 2 and have accomplished what I was planning to accomplish at the end of day 1. could say that I'm 1 day behind… or more mathematically correct - that I'm working in half-throttle, and at 1/2 the production rate. as it seems, I'll at least have the cabinet made by the end of the weekend, so it can stand on it's own and not take benchtop space. drawers, and the rest, can be taken on one at a time later on.

Peace.
 
#104 ·
Sharon, this is looking pretty good. Bummer about the scratches but they really are only cosmetic.

The same thing would have happened in a cast iron top. I have put a few scratches in my cast iron top from my miter sled. I used carriage bolts to mount the hold downs and apparently there is enough friction from the head of the carriage bolt to scratch the cast iron unless they are tightened down. So I hesitate to think what the end of a screw would do.
 
#120 ·
Cast(ers) Away

Not much done today, had time to install the casters. had to go the lowes for some lag bolts (5/16) as the casters did not come with it.

I found the casters on eBay for a fantastic price. it's sold by SES Casters which are here in Massachusetts. total price was ~26 including shipping. they may not be red and shiny - but they are soft, heavy duty, and work fantastic! I highly recommend this seller by any means.

I installed 2 swivel casters on the front of the table, and 2 non swivel casters in the back. when the front casters are locked, there are no wheels that can slide/move in the direction of the feed:



I installed 2 lag bolts into the end of the plywood sides, and 2 bolts with nuts that go through the bottom piece. I'm not too sure about the bolts in the ply-edge as the edge usually doesn't have much holding power (but I have been pleasantly surprised in the past from screws into ply-edge), but being a physics major - having the plywood sides (which hold the rails and drawers, and all their weight) rest on the casters will create less stress on the bottom piece, and the pocket screws that hold it to the sides. besides, there's not much pressure on these lag bolts. worst case, I can always remount the casters.

so here it is, in it's planned location that will/might double work as an outfeed table (just have to figure out how to handle the DC hose in the back of the saw):



the top lays on the cabinet and is very very stable (surprisingly). there is a gap between the top and the right side as it was installed too low, but I can shim that, or fill it with something. I think I'll mount the top to the cabinet with triangle blocks in each corner (and 2 in the center) to secure it from moving about.

not much done today for lack of time, and the need to drive around for bolts. but at least it took the cabinet off the tablesaw/workbench, which are now back to being functional.

Next I would like to work on the top, and mount the router in it somehow.

Peace.
 
#144 ·
Drawers Under the Weather

and I mean literally - we've had a snow storm here, and the garage is covered with more than a foot of snow.

It was blazing outside and the high winds were blowing snow all over the place. my garage is unheated, but neither of those stopped me from making the most I could with an open window of time I got this weekend.

I caved in, and ordered an Incra router plate for the top when they just posted the phenolic version on sale for $35 (they had a 10% off last week). I really like the magnalock concept, but wasn't about to spend $90 on a plate (their aluminum plate is priced that way)... anyways to make story short. I can't continue with work on the top as I'm waiting for the plate to arrive so that I can make a template, and install it in the top.

Instead, I undid the face frame, and replaced the shelf under the router which was originally a masonite sheet with a full 3/4" plywood for some added ridgidity, and also to seal the router enclosure better for DC purposes. then I glued and screwed the face frame back on. and added triangular bracket on all the corners which will secure the top in place later on.

Originally I was planning to use the router table to make the drawers with dovetail joinery and test my incra-jig while at it. but since I had this time window today, and no router table, and no top to work on (waiting for plate) I decided to forgo the dovetailed drawers idea, and make use of the 1/2" plywood scraps I have, which also helps clear some more space. I'll use dovetails for something more meaningful in the future :)

I installed all the slides, and then started making the drawers. so far I only have 2 as these are all different heights so I'm limited with the amount of automation I can use.

I used is simple lock-rabbet joinery for the drawers, and went REAL simple on it since it'll have drawer fronts to cover it all up. I just wanted something fast that will hold the drawers well:



then I covered both TS and router cabinet with masonite sheets, and it was glueup:



At these temperatures, glueup takes a bit longer.. but then again - I'm not sure when I'll get another time window to continue this - I'm pretty sure it'll be glued up by then :)

I'll take the clamps off tomorrow though.
Peace
 
#145 ·
Take the shop time when you can get it. Looking good. I feel for you with the cold shop, our 2+ feet of snow from Dec. 19 has ceased melting as it was 11 whole degrees this morning, never made above freezing today.
 
#158 ·
Insert an Insert an Insert an Insert an....

OK. I caved in and bought an Incra Insert for the router table after they posted it back in stock. It's the 3/8" phenolic plate that is their 'old' design. the opening for the router is 3 3/8" as opposed to the new Aluminum plate which are 3 5/8". also it's not as mechanical capable as the aluminum plates, but for $35 it's within my budget. and still a very good plate. what I really like about the Incras is their MagnaLock plate inserts which snaps into place with magnets and is toolless - no need for a screwdriver, or a handle to lock/unlock the inserts in place.

I definitely didn't want to mess up the phenolic top (of the table) so I decided to make a test run on a board of MDF and if I get good results - to use that MDF as a template and follow that opening over the phenolic top. Actually, it's not that I didn't want to mess up the phenolic (cause I slightly did) - what I didn't want is to mess up the phenolic top beyond salvation… thats what I meant.

And so, I began by placing the phenolic plate over a board of 3/4" MDF. I then ripped 4" stips of 3/4" plywood from the same board so that I'll have even thickness for my "pre" template. I pre drilled the strips and coutersunk those holes to make sure the screws are below surface and won't interfere with my router:



I cross cut those stips at 5 degrees to make sure I get a nice tight fit around the router plate (not trying to make a perfect 90 degree between the strips - just making sure they are all snug against the plate):



For the next step I was a bit stumbled for a while, and researched many places. in order to make the corners nice and round and match the router plate, some places recommend using a 1-1/2" drill bit (shopnotes) while others recommend using a 3/4" router template bit (benchdog). I never installed a router plate before, so I had no idea what would work the best so I bought a 3/4" router bit (a good bit to have in the arsenal regardless of this project) and had my 1-1/2" holesaw at hand. trying to compare between the 2 and the radius of the router plate, It looked like the router bit radius was too small, while the holesaw was just perfect. so, I drilled the 4 corners with the holesaw. then, using the 3/4" template bit, I followed the plywood makeshift template to cut through the MDF board.

my work was a bit sloppy, and I lost alignment of the router a couple of times which messed up the MDF AND the plywood strips in a few places. so I left things as is. and started it all over again with new material. If I'm going to screw anything up - I don't want it to be the template itself :)

round to was much better. this time around I also screwed a block in the middle so that the router will have support on both sides of it's base. this was great. but on one corner I pulled to hard trying to run through it, and the router jumped and notched the template - not too bad. not bad enough that I wanted to start over again (and I didn't have any more materials either).

after completing the cutout, I fit the template in - it was SNUG. It required some rasping of the corners, and straight lines in order to fit the insert. and it's TIGHT. maybe too tight… but I can always sand/shape it open wider if I feel it's a problem. Going the other way around would be impossible (at least as far as I've been told).

I then took the template, and placed it over the original board of MDF that I screwed up, and used the template to cut open an opening for the router plate. I figured I might as well test how the template delivers. in the picture you can see the top hole which was the first attempt for the template, and the lower hole which was made by the 2nd attempt template as it's holding the plate:



once I had that dialed in. I setup the template over the phenolic top:



To get the depth of cut, I placed the Incra plate on top of my template, placed the router on top of that, and plunged (router unplugged) until the bit hit the table top. then set a depth stop for that setting. sorry I didn't take a picture, but I think shopnotes has an illustration of this in their "6 steps to install a router plate". what this does is sets the depth of cut for the template AND the router place, which means it'll cut exactly the thickness of the router plate below the template. I did find that this made the cut about 1/64" too shallow, and had to micro adjust the depth of cut to allow the plate to sit just slightly below the table top (so that I can shim it precisely level with the table top).

I then followed it with the 3/4" template bit on the router. this created a 3/4" lip all around for the plate to sit on. I wanted to have a wider lip than what I've seen on commercial tops (1/2"?) and the 3/4" seemed like a balanced size, large enough, but not overly large that it'll be in the way of the router.

to cut off the center I was a bit stumped again. I don't have a jigsaw. and didn't really want to route all that phenolic away (it's messy , very messy, and its hard hard hard on the bits) so I used a circular saw and plunged my way down through the phenolic, and following a straight edge as much as I could from both sides. the line doesn't have to be perfect as this is unseen, I just needed to take that center out. once I had the 4 edges cut through, I used a drill bit to release the corners and was left with this:



all in all, I was glad how the cutoff part came. I did slip with the circ saw beyond my end point, and notched the top part of the top. not a deal breaker, but would have been nicer if I didn't have that cut notch there.

I installed the router in the plate, and put it in. I need to tilt the router as I put it into the opening, but I think that's a usual thing with larger routers (this one is rather large). it sits very nicely, and extends through the table to change bits:



the first thing that I checked for which I was curious for all along was how convenient the controls on the router would be (on/off button, and height adjustment). I must say - with the router installed diagonally over the plate, reaching for both the power button, and for the height control is very very convenient - I was very positively surprised with this as I expected this part to be somewhat disappointing.

so far, so good. I'm glad how this came out, and I'm even more glad to be DONE with this phenolic hell (at least for now).

Peace.
 
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