While working on building my workbench, I ended up breaking the Y part that is responsible for blade advancement (in/out) in my Buck-Bros #5 Jack plane. This one was probably one of my very first woodworking tools that I still have today, and with it I learned much about hand planing from proper tuning, to usage.
As it happened, a day after It broke, I found a Stanley #6 fore plane on craigslist, and as luck had it – the guy was a few streets away from me. NICE. I figured I’m gonna go with a #6 that might be more suitable for jointing and planing surfaces flat than a #5 (although capable for the task ,is not as heavy and not as long), and since I also have a #4 for smoothing – I should be good to go.
I knew I would have to do some work fighting rust and restoring the plane as it was not being used and was purchased at an estate sale, but at $20 I was willing to take on that project (heck – the buck bros cost me twice that much for cheap material made plane).
here is what it looked like when I got it:
After reading sIKEs’ review of the Evap-o-Rust for removing rust (no harmful chemicals, easy on the skin, safe, and effective) I stopped at a local autozone and picked up a small bottle for ~$10 (with taxes). I wish they came in bigger bottles, cause it was kind of a PITA to try and soak an entire body of a #6 plane in a container so that it’ll be all soaked inside. I couldn’t find a container big enough – so had to resort to using a trash bag, and try to have the liquid contact the plane on all sides). it did a really swell job:
This is actually the 2nd attempt, as after the first attempt of soaking it with Evap-o-Rust and then washing with water/soap to clean them off, I noticed the parts developed flash-rust which I didn’t quite like. so I did it again, and this time- I didn’t dry the parts after the soap/water, but instead, sprayed them with WD-40, and then wiped them clean. worked great.
I also used a coffee filter to filter the dirty Evap-o-Rust back to it’s container. (this is after the 2nd run, so there’s less rust/left overs in the filter, as this is actually the 4th filter I ran through)
After dealing with the rust, it was time to replace the tote handle.
I decided to use a piece of curly maple that Len (Dusty56) gave me when he visit me in June. this was just the right usage for that piece as I’ll be seeing that and admiring that maple every time I woodwork – Thanks Len!!!
so here is the blank I started with (after cutting it roughly on the bandsaw):
the ironic thing is that I’m planing the blank for the tote -with the plane that it’s going to be installed in – quite a nice cycle of life.
the nice thing about hand planes – is that unlike power tools – you can actually plane and mill small pieces such as this one quite safely and quietly.
next – was glueing the template from Lee-Valley (Thanks LV) on the blank:
followed by rough bandsawing the shape:
After that, it was some shaping it with a rasp, and finishing it with wipe-on poly that I mixed:
Back in business!
eventually I would replace the front knob as well when I can turn, but for not this is workable.
working with this #6 made me realize how junk the Buck-Bros was… it was made of light cheap materials. this one is hefty, and heavy, everything is well made, and when it rides the wood, it’s stable, and does the job on it’s own with minimal labor on my side. works like a dream…
Thanks for reading,
EDIT: per requests – here is a close up on the tote, I’ve had my shares of errors with it (chipped the top when drilling for the rod – which I glued in place, and fixed, then I milled the part too thick, and tried to fix by bandsawing down in thickness- throwing the center hole off center… I kinda fixed that one, but the hole looks off center, then in the 2nd to last coat of poly I didn’t wipe off after sanding with 600grit, so the next coat was ‘dirty’... maybe one day I’ll strip it and refinish…) but without further ado – here is the tote:
-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.