While working on building my workbench, I ended up breaking the Y part that is responsible for blade advancement (in/out) in my Buck-Bros #5 Jack plane. This one was probably one of my very first woodworking tools that I still have today, and with it I learned much about hand planing from proper tuning, to usage.
As it happened, a day after It broke, I found a Stanley #6 fore plane on craigslist, and as luck had it – the guy was a few streets away from me. NICE. I figured I’m gonna go with a #6 that might be more suitable for jointing and planing surfaces flat than a #5 (although capable for the task ,is not as heavy and not as long), and since I also have a #4 for smoothing – I should be good to go.
I knew I would have to do some work fighting rust and restoring the plane as it was not being used and was purchased at an estate sale, but at $20 I was willing to take on that project (heck – the buck bros cost me twice that much for cheap material made plane).
here is what it looked like when I got it:



After reading sIKEs’ review of the Evap-o-Rust for removing rust (no harmful chemicals, easy on the skin, safe, and effective) I stopped at a local autozone and picked up a small bottle for ~$10 (with taxes). I wish they came in bigger bottles, cause it was kind of a PITA to try and soak an entire body of a #6 plane in a container so that it’ll be all soaked inside. I couldn’t find a container big enough – so had to resort to using a trash bag, and try to have the liquid contact the plane on all sides). it did a really swell job:

This is actually the 2nd attempt, as after the first attempt of soaking it with Evap-o-Rust and then washing with water/soap to clean them off, I noticed the parts developed flash-rust which I didn’t quite like. so I did it again, and this time- I didn’t dry the parts after the soap/water, but instead, sprayed them with WD-40, and then wiped them clean. worked great.
I also used a coffee filter to filter the dirty Evap-o-Rust back to it’s container. (this is after the 2nd run, so there’s less rust/left overs in the filter, as this is actually the 4th filter I ran through)

After dealing with the rust, it was time to replace the tote handle.
I decided to use a piece of curly maple that Len (Dusty56) gave me when he visit me in June. this was just the right usage for that piece as I’ll be seeing that and admiring that maple every time I woodwork – Thanks Len!!!
so here is the blank I started with (after cutting it roughly on the bandsaw):

the ironic thing is that I’m planing the blank for the tote -with the plane that it’s going to be installed in – quite a nice cycle of life.
the nice thing about hand planes – is that unlike power tools – you can actually plane and mill small pieces such as this one quite safely and quietly.
next – was glueing the template from Lee-Valley (Thanks LV) on the blank:

followed by rough bandsawing the shape:

After that, it was some shaping it with a rasp, and finishing it with wipe-on poly that I mixed:

Back in business!
eventually I would replace the front knob as well when I can turn, but for not this is workable.
working with this #6 made me realize how junk the Buck-Bros was… it was made of light cheap materials. this one is hefty, and heavy, everything is well made, and when it rides the wood, it’s stable, and does the job on it’s own with minimal labor on my side. works like a dream…
Thanks for reading,
Peace.
EDIT: per requests – here is a close up on the tote, I’ve had my shares of errors with it (chipped the top when drilling for the rod – which I glued in place, and fixed, then I milled the part too thick, and tried to fix by bandsawing down in thickness- throwing the center hole off center… I kinda fixed that one, but the hole looks off center, then in the 2nd to last coat of poly I didn’t wipe off after sanding with 600grit, so the next coat was ‘dirty’... maybe one day I’ll strip it and refinish…) but without further ado – here is the tote:

-- When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.






















23 comments so far
a1Jim
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16558 posts in 469 days
posted 90 days ago
It came out great
-- Jim from Heirloom Woodshop Southern Oregon
Bret
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82 posts in 386 days
posted 90 days ago
Gorgeous! And what a bargain.
-- Bret, Colorado
John Ormsby
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503 posts in 628 days
posted 90 days ago
Nice job on the plane.
You can get larger quantities of Evapo-Rust from Fastenal. I just ordered a five gallon container. It is much cheaper to buy in the bigger containers.
Evapo-Rust comes in 1 Qt, 1 Gallon, 2 Gallon, 5 gallon, and 55 Gallon drums.
-- Oldworld, Fair Oaks, Ca
Jimi_C
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183 posts in 126 days
posted 90 days ago
Wow, after reading this I may start hunting for cheap rusty gear on CL, since it seems relatively easy to restore.
ellen35
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529 posts in 324 days
posted 90 days ago
Nice job, Sharon.
Chronology of the restore in pictures was really interesting.
Ellen
-- Ellen on Cape Cod
3fingerpat
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901 posts in 559 days
posted 90 days ago
Nice work, Evapo Rust is a great product in my book. I used on a #4 Restoration I did and it worked wonders. You did a great job on the tote, looks fantastic.
-- "You get what you inspect, not what you expect"
Jimi_C
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183 posts in 126 days
posted 90 days ago
Actually there’s both a #4 and a #7 available in my area (the #7 looks about as rough as the one you restored), but both are listed at $15… I may have some running to do today :)
Scott Bryan
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20536 posts in 713 days
posted 90 days ago
John, Sharon another source for the Evaporust that may a little cheaper than Fastenal’s price of $26.50l is a direct purchase from Evaporust.com. Their website lists a gallon at $21.00 + shipping. Shipping to my home address in Kentucky would run $9.50.
-- With God's help all things are possible- even woodworking. Woodworking is not just a hobby, it is an (expletive deleted) expensive hobby.
kenn
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217 posts in 611 days
posted 90 days ago
That turn out great< congrats on restoring a tool to its former glory. The handle looks super and I can’t believe out clean all of the parts were after using the evapo rust. Keep it up.
-- Every cloud has a silver lining
Rj
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544 posts in 523 days
posted 90 days ago
You got a great deal $20 and its pre ww2 you can’t beat that ! And thanks for the how to tips I’ve never used EvapoRust but I will now !
Here’s some usefull sites on Stanley planes
general info http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan0a.html
Trade mark dates info http://www.antique-used-tools.com/stantms.htm
Purplev have you thought about making you own plane-s ? If you do it right They are sooo sweet.
Bhavens has made alot of his own and I have to tell you they are better than store bought.
(thats just my opinion though)
-- Rj's Woodworks,San Jose & Weed Ca,
Dusty56
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3455 posts in 580 days
posted 90 days ago
Great restoration , Sharon !! Can we get a close up of the finished handle ?
I’m glad that you found a good use for the Tiger Maple : ) Any plans on what to do with the rest of it ?
Have you made anything with the Honduran Rosewood yet ?
-- You know you're getting old when you know the difference between you're (you are) and your (belonging to you) AND how to use them in a sentence .
sIKE
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1094 posts in 645 days
posted 90 days ago
Nice looking handle!. Got those same plans in hand and it is on my to-do list this week. Need to turn a knob at some point also. Good restore on the metal!. I have found it in the Gallon Jug at O’Relliy’s Autoparts. I found an older single space plastic drawer organizer. It is perfectly wide and deep enough for everything up to a #5 and I can submerge almost the whole thing and then flip it over to get the rest…works very well.
If you leave the evapo-rust on the metal it will keep it from flash rusting also. If it is new jucie it shouldn’t leave the dark haze that the heavily used stuff leaves. You can use it mutiple times just leave it exposed to air, for some reason closing it causes it to go rancid…
-- //FC - Round Rock, TX - "Experience is what you get just after you need it"
PurpLev
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2732 posts in 540 days
posted 90 days ago
Thanks Everyone,
good tips on where to get larger containers of Rust-o-leum, if I’m in the need, I’ll go there next time.
Jimi_C – those are good deals on #7 especially, and also a #4 is a good one to have (or 2, or 3 – each setup slightly different). just make sure they are good quality – Stanley, or other known brand.
Rj – thanks for pointing that out (mfg date) I didn’t even think about it – just needed a plane for jointing applications, and a #7 is a bit large for me at the moment (storage limitations). I have been indeed thinking about making my own planes, but for lack of time, and lack of proper lumber (hard and tight) I’m going to hold off on that one for the time being- although in the future I might take up that project.
Len – I’ll get another picture for ya soon,don’t have any more at the moment.
sIKE – I have so many container that would gladly fit a #5 …. but not even one that would hold the body of this #6…. and I’ve checked every corner of the house…lol.
-- When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.
king
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50 posts in 839 days
posted 90 days ago
Nice job, and a good find on the plane,I love seeing old tools brought back to new condition, and able to work again.
-- franklinalbert@sbcglobal.net
Beginningwoodworker
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4098 posts in 565 days
posted 90 days ago
Great job on the handplane.
-- CJIII Future cabinetmaker
Craftsman on the lake
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811 posts in 329 days
posted 90 days ago
I’ve used evaporust a lot. I also did my large plane and didn’t have a container large enough but still narrow enough so that I could use a smaller amount of evaporust. So I got a box of tin foil, gathered it up 4 sheets thick and formed a container the length and width of the plane body. I then put it in a large tray, just in case, and put the plane in it.
Also, for long slender objects a 1/2 inch or 1 inch or 2 inch, whatever size you need PVC with a cap on the end works well. and uses little of the fluid if you use the right size. This would be for long chisels or screw drivers or files.
I’ve also used a 1 liter soda bottle with the cone cut off the top.
-- The smell of wood, coffee in the cup, the wife let's me do my thing, the lake is peaceful. http://web.me.com/deceiver6/Deceiver/Craftsman_on_the_lake/Craftsman_on_the_lake.html
PurpLev
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2732 posts in 540 days
posted 90 days ago
Great idea Daniel with the tin foil- I do that ALL THE TIME for other uses, not sure why I didn’t think of it for THIS ONE…
-- When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.
PurpLev
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2732 posts in 540 days
posted 90 days ago
Update – I’ve added a close up picture of the tote in the original post above
-- When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.
John Gray
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1743 posts in 777 days
posted 90 days ago
Thanks for the post this is the 1st time I’ve seen good pictures of what Evap-o-Rust can do, I have 2 – 1 quart bottles I’m waiting to use.
And the tip about rinsing with WD-40 is good too.
Thanks again,
John
-- Only the Shadow knows....................
Will Mego
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203 posts in 604 days
posted 89 days ago
Great job, I love seeing the restoration of old, but great tools like that. And so glad you used such a nice piece of wood on the tote!
-- "That which has in itself the greatest use, possesses the greatest beauty." - Unknown Shaker
Dennis Zongker
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1014 posts in 484 days
posted 87 days ago
Very Nice! It’s a great feeling to restore old tools. You did a incredible job. This is a great blog, thanks for sharing.
-- Dennis Zongker
Jerry
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58 posts in 45 days
posted 23 days ago
I found the Evapo rust at our local Tractor Supply Co. I have used it for a couple of years now, its great stuff. I follow it up with a quick bath of “Metal Ready” by the POR people. Gives a rust proof phosphate finish , good as-is or a great base for primer and paint.
POR Website
-- Jerry, "Some people are like Slinkies, They aren't good for much of anything, but they put a grin on your face when you push them down a flight of stairs"
bigike
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168 posts in 180 days
posted 3 hours ago
nice job
-- Ike, Big Daddies Woodshop,www.icombadaniels@yahoo.com