LumberJocks

Quoridor board: How to (quick & dirty)

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Blog entry by Picklehead posted 10-26-2016 01:11 PM 745 reads 1 time favorited 0 comments Add to Favorites Watch

A fellow Lumberjock requested more info on how I made my quick & dirty Quoridor board. After sending him the info, I figured I might as well post it here. It’s been almost a year since I made the board so I hope my memory is correct. Let me know if you have any questions and I’ll do my best to answer them.

MAKING A QUORIDOR BOARD

The overall width is determined by the size of the squares that make up the board plus the width of your blade. I made mine by allowing for extra room then trimming off the extra when I was all done. My squares are 7/8 inch because that dimension worked with the size board I was starting with (already had it glued up from another project). The total width of the board is determined by the fact that you need room for:

-9 squares + 8 kerfs (the playing area) +
-2 kerfs (one for each wall of the border) +
-4 squares + 2 kerfs ( 2 squares + 1 kerf is the length of one piece in the “parking area”) +
-2 times whatever bevel you want on the edge.

I used a 1/8 inch chipper blade from my dado set because it has a flat bottom and is wider than my regular blades. I used an incra positioner to move the fence, but you can just make a spacer piece and use it between your workpiece and the fence after each cut to move the fence over by a consistent, uniform distance. Do all your crosscuts first so your nice clean ripping cuts will be your last cuts. If you do your ripping cuts first, then all your crosscuts will generate blowout wherever they cross a ripping cut.

Figure out the size of the “parking area plus the bevel” outside the border wall. Probably a good idea to leave yourself some extra width then come back when you’re all done and trim it to finished size. Make your first crosscut where the border wall should be. Then, with the saw off, before moving your fence, slide your piece back over the blade so the blade is under the piece about centered halfway through the cut you just made. Slide the fence away from the workpiece, insert the spacer piece you made (which is the width of one square plus one kerf), and bring the fence back to touch the spacer. Remove the spacer, reposition the workpiece, and repeat the process until you have nine squares and ten kerfs. Turn the board and repeat the process for your ripping cuts. Trim to final size then cut the bevel on the edge. Truth be told, the bevel on mine was a “design feature” I added to clean up blowout around the edges, but I think it looks better with the bevel after all.

Your wall pieces need to be exactly two square plus one kerf long. They can be a hair shorter, but they cannot be any longer because they need to be able to form a “T” or an “I” on the board and therefore they can’t stick out into the “intersections”. Have fun getting them the right thickness and length. That was, ironically, the hardest part of this whole project. The length wasn’t too hard with a cutoff stop, but ripping to a consistent thickness on the outboard side of the blade was hit or miss, even with my thin ripping jig.

-- You've got to be smarter than the tree.



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