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Delta 46-715 Lathe Repower #1: Delta Lathe Repower

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Blog entry by Pete_LJ posted 05-30-2016 12:51 PM 695 reads 0 times favorited 2 comments Add to Favorites Watch
no previous part Part 1 of Delta 46-715 Lathe Repower series Part 2: Fitting the Driven Pulley and Fabbing Support for Motor and Swivel Bar »

05302016:
I have started on the repower of my Delta 46-715 lathe. I am replacing the reeves drive and original motor with 1hp treadmill motor with 8 rib pulley. So far I have disassembled the reeves drive, removed original motor, drilled out original safety shield bolt holes, and tapped safety cover bolt holes 1/4-20 threads.
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I have added pics of some of the key pieces:

Broken hub from one of the Reeves pulleys:

Unbroken Reeves Pulley:

Motor mount and swivel bar from treadmill

New hub for 15/16 shaft

Treadmill driven pulley 8 ribs removed from treadmill roller:

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05312016:
I am attempting to finalize the size of the plywood box that will mount to rear of the lathe using 1/4 20 holes that I tapped. However I need to get a better fix on how I will mount the treadmill driven pulley and where along the shaft before I can finalize the box size.

I have come up with three different ways to mount the treadmill driven pulley as follows:


1.) Maska Pulley Hub with 24mm ID (see picture below) attached to this hub with three fasteners attached through holes that need to be drilled accurately in pulley;

2.) Attaching broken Reeves drive hub (see pic above) to interior of treadmill driven pulley using combination of epoxy and PVC spacer between pulley and Reeves drive hub; and

3.) Attaching 15/16 hub (see pic above) to sprocket made for that hub by welding such sprocket into place and then drilling holes in sprocket and pulley in order to mechanically fastenn them together.

Thinking out loud here on pros and cons as follows:

Alternative one (“1”) PROS: bore of the Maska hub is correct diameter and holes exist in hub to mount pulley, hub has taper which means keyway fit is not critical.

Alternative one (“1”) CONS: Maska Hub keyway is 8mm (rather than 4mm used on Delta shaft), holes in pulley must be correctly centered, and the large hole in middle would be a void (worried that pulley is built to bear pressure on that surface rather than side imposed by holes drilled to accommodate Maska pulley). Hub’s taper makes mock-up difficult.

Alternative two (“2”) PROS: bore and keyway of the broken Reeves drive hub is correct (although may need minor cleanup with file).

Alternative two (“2”) CONS: attachment of hub and pulley and epoxy may not be a long term solution in light of the likely vibration, braking and reversing forces.

Alternative three (“3”) PROS: Hub’s lack of taper makes mock-up easy, welding sprocket and drilling holes are relatively easy.

Alternative three (“3”) CONS: 15/16” Hub must beem reamed to 24mm which means buying a 24mm reamer, keyway is 1/4” (rather than 4mm used on Delta shaft), holes in pulley must be correctly centered, and the large hole in middle would be a void (worried that pulley is built to bear pressure on that surface rather than side imposed by holes drilled to accommodate hub and sprocket). Hub’s lack of taper means that keyway fit must be very accurate.

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Maska hub photo:

Maska hub is a split hub (intentionally has a gap in the hub) which allows for the hub to be about 30/1000s undersize (AKA 0.030”) until the split is pried apart with a wedge (or a screwdriver, if nothing else works).

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06062016 (this portion forward of the blog can a;lso be seen in the beginning of part#2 of this blog)

I got the rough version of the box built and attached to the back of the lathe. In addition, I decided to go with the first option on mounting the driven pulley (namely, Maska Pulley Hub with three fasteners to be attached through holes that need to be drilled accurately in pulley). I created two wooden plugs using two hole saws: i.) 1 7/8”, and ii.) 1 1/8”. Neither hole saw created the perfect size plug. So I wrapped electrical tape around the 1 7/8” plug (actually 1.579” for the plug due to each wall of the hole saw being about 85/1000s) until the plug for the driven pulley until it was very close to 1.640”. With the plug for the Maska pulley hub, I used a 1 1/8” hole saw which created a plug that was too big. I turned the 1 1/8” plug down on the drill press and then added a little electrical tape as took a little too much off. I then inserted each plug and attached them together with a 1/4” stud, washers and nuts. The whole assembly then fit into a 3/4” plywood piece to allow for the holes to be drilled. Unfortunately, I am having a propblem with the morse taper on my drill and the chuck keeps falling out. I need to get the chuck/MT problem fixed so that I can drill the holes through the driven pulley and then mount it to the hub.

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Here are some pics of the project:

Hub and driven pulley bolted together (with plugs installed) while sitting on plywood board with 1/4” hole and recess for fastener attaching the hub and pulley together.

Hub and driven pulley bolted together (with plugs installed) – different angle1:

Hub and driven pulley bolted together (with plugs installed) – different angle2:

Hub and driven pulley bolted together (with plugs installed) – different angle3:

Plywood with recess to hold hub and driven pulley bolted together:

Plywood box roughed out and attached to back of lathe with motor mount/swivel bar assembly (3 pics):



2 comments so far

View Wildwood's profile

Wildwood

1887 posts in 1602 days


#1 posted 05-31-2016 04:18 PM

Look forward to seeing your completed restoration!

-- Bill

View Pete_LJ's profile

Pete_LJ

9 posts in 213 days


#2 posted 06-06-2016 03:18 PM

06062016: Added some more pics and narrative on this project.

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