A local mill contacted me about installing panel lock fasteners to hold 4×9 foot honeycomb panels together. These are for a sliding wall in a large room. I built the jigs and installed them and then they wanted a door installed in one of the panels. This is the door and three of the panels attached. Not fine woodworking, but it keeps the lights on. Buy the way, I am not in the picture. I posted the glue up a couple of days ago.

When gluing a door frame into a movable wall panel last week I needed a few clamps. Now when the better half bugs me when spending cash for more clamps, I can just show here this picture. The panel is a honeycomb material made at a local mill. In this case its faces on both sides with 1/4 MDF. Interesting stuff to work with. This 4×9 x 2.5 panel weighs in at 123 lbs.

I got frustrated with the bench top router tables that I had, and was running a lot of stock that was 8 ft long and having a hard time working it, so I got a hair up my *ss and built a 15 ft long router table to house the bench top tables. The table was cut from the economy bin Lowes 2×6x8’s and cheap ½ and ¾ inch plywood. We have a cheap outlet place not far away that I got the laminate top material from as well. The micro-adjusters for the router tables were made using T-nuts 1/4 -20 carriage bolts, nylock nuts and a nut welded on to the end of the bolt. I haven’t done much counter top work in a lot of years, and forgot to check the hex nut on the router bit, and it came of at one end of the front of the project. Can’t afford to by more of the top material, so I will live with it and use it as a reminder to check the bearing screws. I also added 4 20 amp duplex outlets to the front of the table.

I needed an out-feed table and an assembly table for the shop, so I built this one using fir 4×4 for legs, and fir 2×4’s for the framing. The top is a full 4×8 feet of witch I fastened ¾ inch mdf to the framing with a ½ inch mdf replaceable top floating on top for a 1 ¼ inch flat top. I built this to sit 1/8th inch lower than the table saw top. It sits on 6 locking casters (Harbor Freight), and when they are locked, it is very stable. All framing was done with rabbits and dados. I added 4 20 amp duplex outlets, one on every corner. Can’t have enough power in the shop for portable tools.

Pete

My sister in law has a copper fetish, everything in her kitchen has to have some copper in it. When I built the pad for her pellet stove I even used copper speckeled grout.

This breadbox started out when I found the copper face pannel on the internet for around 10-15 bucks. I then downloaded some free plans of the net to get an Idea as to what a bread box should look like, and then built the unit around the copper face. We never had a breadbox as a kid, and at home we keep the bread in a drawer.

The breadbox is built from western red alder that I have reclamed and resawn. The finish is “Gerneral Finishes Candlelight”. It is an oil based stain with 2 coats of Minwax satin poly over the top. I wanted to try to make this look as if it was made in the “arts and crafts” time frame, and keep it a little primative to match the looks of her kitchen.

Total cost,
around 20 bucks.

I needed another router table to just do a 1/8th inch grove notch in the product that I make, so I found some old cutting board, and made this table using reclamed western red alder that I resawed to 3/4 inch x 3 inch boards and dadoed the corners. The router was free from the local pawn shop because the stop lock was broken. I set up the top supports to hold the top for changing the router bits. I figure I have less than two bucks of glue and materials into this project.