I went to the hardware store in town yesterday and bought a can of Deft brand Lacquer by mistake instead of poly. I thought I would try deft brand poly instead of the only other satin poly that they had (ACE). I did read the back of the can, and picked up some lacquer thinner to clean the brush. When I bought the thinner I should have thought something was not right. I got it to the shop and got it mixed and started applying. The first thing I noticed was that the VOC’s where much stronger than the MinWax Poly’s that I use. I also noticed that the recoat time was only 2 hrs. 6 coats in one day, and sanding with 600 between coats it is a “wow” finish.
Now I can remember as a kid people using lacquer, but don’t know much about it. Any one else use it.
-- Life is to short to own an ugly boat.





















5 comments so far
a1Jim
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15557 posts in 456 days
posted 184 days ago
I used lacquer many times it lends it self to spraying better than brushing because it drys so fast usually you need a reducer to be able to brush it well . but you can re-coat and sand in between coats and even us it as a toner with a little color thrown in.
-- Jim from Heirloom Woodshop Southern Oregon
RBWoodworker
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203 posts in 230 days
posted 184 days ago
I have used laquer for years and it’s a good finish..I have used 2 different kinds..1 is a bartop laquer which in my opinion is a little tougher and a little more water resilient..and the other is a production laquer which has a more amber tint to it and is not quite as durable.. I cut them 2 to 1 with thinner and like a1Jim says use a retarder to slow drying time and allow the finish to lay down clean.. be very careful though for on various pourous woods such as red oak.. it will tend to blister if your not careful and it dries too fast..I usually spray 2 or 3 coats of sanding sealer first, knocking them down between each coat before actually spraying the laquer..it has worked well for me and I usually get a glass smooth finish..remember..it’s also extremely flammable so use pleanty of ventilation and a respirator too
-- Randall Child
Pete_Jud
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114 posts in 632 days
posted 184 days ago
This stuff has “Brushing Lacquer” on the front label, I don’t do much spraying, cleanup time vs a brush is so much longer.
-- Life is to short to own an ugly boat.
marcb
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696 posts in 552 days
posted 184 days ago
I use it all the time, more durable than poly and easier to repair.
CessnaPilotBarry
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1225 posts in 581 days
posted 184 days ago
Brushing lacquer is great stuff, but it handles a lot different than oil varnish (poly). Just carefully flow it on and let it dry. Don’t overbrush or “tip off”. Each coat will melt into the other, which gives lacquer it’s superior repairability. The very fast drying time keeps lacquer far more dust free than varnish. It’s helpful to dedicate some brushes to lacquer. If they get stiff, simply dunk them in lacquer thinner and they’ll soften right up.
HEED THE WARNINGS on the label about open flame, pilot lights, and ventillation. Solvent based lacquer is far more flammable than oil based paints and varnishes, and has very strong odors. The good news is that the stink and solvents flash off quickly.
I respectfully disagree with the comment about lacquer being more durable than poly. While lacquer is harder when dry than polyurethane varnish, which makes it fantastically wonderful to rub out and adjust sheen, poly is far more resistant to moisture, heat, like pots and pans, and solvents.
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