Shopsmith Restoration #5: Started the Strip-Down

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Blog entry by PG_Zac posted 02-27-2010 09:08 PM 4432 reads 0 times favorited 10 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 4: We have identified the machine Part 5 of Shopsmith Restoration series Part 6: Stripping and Cleaning »

I started stripping my Goldie today, so I knocked this cradle together to support it while working.

I rough cut the base and overlong uprights. I then clamped the uprights together and used a large Forstner to drill the support cut-outs and cut off the tops off the uprights to give me half-round cradles for the way tubes. A few angle brackets later all glued and screwed, and I have a good work stand.

I can even turn the unit on its side to access the underside.


I then started stripping down the headstock to find out what internals I have. To get the belt cover off, I had to take the end casting off the way tubes. Not very cooperative due to rust.

Not commonly used restoration tools

Speed pulleys seem to be in decent condition

The motor appears to be original

It seems to be able to handle both 110V and 230V without mods

Wiring is all shot

Good news though – The quill rack & pinion seem to be in very good condition, just greasy & dirty

That’s it for today.

-- I may be schizophrenic, but at least I have each other.

10 comments so far

View Hacksaw007's profile


612 posts in 3122 days

#1 posted 02-27-2010 09:43 PM

Wow, this one is a bit on the rough side. I await with excitment to see how it goes on this great machine! This isn’t your first one I am guessing?

-- For God so loved the world, that he gave his only begotten Son, that whosoever believeth in him should not perish, but have everlasting life. John 3:16

View woodworm's profile


14457 posts in 3524 days

#2 posted 02-27-2010 10:41 PM

Now I’m scared….and very anxious to see the result.

-- masrol, kuala lumpur, MY.

View John Stegall's profile

John Stegall

498 posts in 3450 days

#3 posted 02-27-2010 11:41 PM


-- jstegall

View SST's profile


790 posts in 4128 days

#4 posted 02-27-2010 11:58 PM

You definitely have a challenging one there. I recommend replacing the bearings in the motor as long as it’s out. It’s not uncommon that, even though they feel good now, if it’s been sitting for many years, that you’ll get it back together & run it a few times & then the dried and/or congealed grease will cause bearing failure & you’ll have to take it apart again.

If the bearings in the upper & idler shaft or quill feel “lumpy” or tight, you can sometimes save them by warming them (not too hot) with a hand held propane torch & then putting a couple of drops of oil (I use Marvel Mystery Oil…don’t really know why, I just always have) into the bearing & spinning until it smooths out. The quick way to do this is to hold the shaft with the bearing lightly up against a buffing wheel or soft wire wheel & turn on the buffer/grinder machine. If the bearing is off the shaft, slip it over a dowel or rod. Let the wheel spin the bearing for a few minutes. I wouldn’t do that with the motor bearings, only the headstock ones. Also be aware that some motors have a different size bearing at each end of the motor shaft. (but not all motors) The difference is slight, so measure carefully.

Oh, and have fun. -SST

-- Accuracy is not in your power tool, it's in you

View PG_Zac's profile


368 posts in 3322 days

#5 posted 02-28-2010 09:51 AM

Thanks for the pointers SSTom.

Hacksaw – You are wrong, this is my first one, and it is a lot on the rough side :-)

-- I may be schizophrenic, but at least I have each other.

View Derek Lyons's profile

Derek Lyons

584 posts in 3501 days

#6 posted 02-28-2010 07:09 PM

I hope the motor is still functional under all that… I’d figure a way to mount and run it outside of the machinery and give it some thorough testing before committing to it.

-- Derek, Bremerton WA --

View dusty2's profile


323 posts in 3362 days

#7 posted 03-01-2010 03:26 PM

According to the label, the motor is switchable 115/220vac. Wish they had left them that way.

-- Making Sawdust Safely

View EEngineer's profile


1092 posts in 3547 days

#8 posted 03-28-2010 02:21 AM

Sorry about the end casting. Is that a piece you can easily get a replacement for?

I love seeing old arn restored but this one does look like a rough one!

-- "Find out what you cannot do and then go do it!"

View PG_Zac's profile


368 posts in 3322 days

#9 posted 03-28-2010 11:59 PM

EEngineer - The casting is very easy to replace. ShopSmith still sells new parts for machines dating back to the early ‘50’s, and if you don’t like their prices, there is a ton of used stuff on eBay in decent condition.

I don’t have to replace this part, as the Taiwanese clone I have has one in good condition.

-- I may be schizophrenic, but at least I have each other.

View jman95's profile


12 posts in 728 days

#10 posted 01-19-2017 06:09 AM

Dont know where you are on this but on .Ebay you can pic up the tie bar for 15 bucks. wrap the tubes up in news paper and soke with lemon juice and leave on it a day or twoo and the rust will come right off. The motor has been replaced at some point because they did not put 1 1/8th motors in until 1980 prior was a 3/4hp. I re bult won about a year ago not as rough but still rough and I own 3 I you ever have questions I would be happy to help. anyway this is how mine came out. If yous is done or close I would love to see a update. I just love these old machines.

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