As I wrote in the “Beginning” blog entry, I have lots of thin lumber on the rack so decided to build up the thicker lumber needed for this project. Honestly, I’ve never done that before, so although I enjoy playing around with the planer and just seeing, feeling and smelling the wood, as I went, I was think that this is a lot of trouble for just a little bit of lumber, but in the end, I enjoyed the process and will do it again.
This is more beginner stuff, probably boring to read if you’ve done it a few times.
I spent a few minutes figuring out how I was going to clamp the glueup. Here is a dry fit of how the clamping will work.
I’ve taken out one pair for gluing and here is the boy watching. A few moments before this he was sucking on a wrench he picked up. LOL. Yeah, he’s still a baby, but he’s a smart one.
Spreading too much glue. I often use my RAS table and extension for various other work, then I have to clean it off so I can crosscut something.
4 pairs, all glued and clamped.
24 hours later, clamps off. I had to beat on ‘em a little because a drop of glue here and there had things stuck together which were not supposed to be.
Here are the glued-up pieces after ripping/jointing on the table saw. Also see the thinner (5/8”) side rails which I had left oversized at this point until I adjust my rip fence so that they are no longer getting burned. These are just sitting on the RAS table because that’s a place to put things in my disorganized shop.
Finished ripping the thinner side rails to final width (3 3/4”) after adjusting fence more parallel with the blade. No burn now. The thick glued-up pieces have been left at 4 1/4” wide but the ends squared now.
I don’t have dust collection on my table saw – but only on the planer and bandsaw.
Thinking constantly about this project – day and night, actually.
I’ve figured out how I want to do a few things.
Since the glued up wood is thicker than called for, and I’d hate to just plane off the excess, I’m changing all the 1 1/4” thick parts to 1 3/8” except the “chop” (don’t know why it’s call that) of the vise, which I’ll change to 1 1/2”.
Also, I plan to cut the doghole blocks from the excess length on the ends of these pieces – so that the doghole blocks will be 1 3/8” square rather than 1 3/32” which would be 5/8ths of 1 3/4” from the original design.
Also, since I have 1/2” extra width on these boards, I plan to saw off strips 5/16” thick (by 1 3/8” wide) which will be used as part of the top cladding between the 1 3/8” square dog holes blocks.
I’m questioning whether I should stick to scaling the dog holes. At 5/8 scale, the dog holes should be 7/16. I can get 7/16 dowel. I could slightly upsize and use 1/2” which makes sense – especially since I think I can get bloodwood or purpleheart dowels in 1/2”. OR, I could use standard 3/4” dog holes – which would enable standard sized holdfasts to be used on this child-sized bench.
I already have some 3/4” purpleheart dowels which I could use if I went with 3/4”.
The dog holes in the bench could be 3/4 and the holes in the wagon vise 1/2.
I haven’t decided yet on that.