I had in mind to make a rail and stile sort of thing, with what I think are called box joints in the frame. After I took a whack at using the fence on the table saw to guide some pieces on end to cut the box joint notches, I decided that I really needed a tenoning jig.
So, after reading a bit on-line, I ordered a tenoning jig from Rockler. I think you can get the same jig for $20 less from Grizzly, but I didn’t notice that til after I ordered it.
To obtain the maximum range of motion, and allow me to cut at zero (tight agaist the blade) without worrying about cutting into the cast-iron fence, I added a 3/4” plywood face plate to the fence of the jig.
After playing around with the thing a little, I decided that it needed an upgrade, so I ordered a 6-inch digital readout (iGauge) from Grizzly. The same DRO is available from many on-line sources. I had only to get a friend to drill and tap a hole for a #8-32 screw in the cast-iron moving plate (to attach the end of the DRO rail), and hammer one of the brackets supplied with the DRO into the shape I needed to connect the puck of the DRO to the base plate on the tenoning jig, and I had a jig that could position a workpiece within a thousanth of an inch over a 2.2” range of motion.
I can just turn the screw to get any position to the thousanth of an inch.
Then tighten it up to fix that setting.
It tends to move 1 or 2 thousanths when I tighten it up, so I plan ahead and dial it in a bit high.
I’ve used it to make some saw-kerf box joints out of scrap which I’m quite pleased with.
I’ve had to fiddle with the alignment of the jig, and I’m going to re-allign my saw as well, but I’m really having fun with the things I can do with this set-up.
One added bonus is that I can use this jig to align my saw. I only need to clamp a peice into the jig which has a protruding post or finger, then dial the jig out to touch that finger against the tooth of the blade on each side to measure (using the DRO) the distance from the slot in the table top.