Finally, I’ve pulled the photos from my camera. I neglected to photograph it as I built it, but here it is in finished form. It gives me 8’ of stop range for precisely measured crosscuts. I can use it for through cuts as well as crosscut dados. The extension table top and fence are made of a partial sheet of 18mm (3/4”) oak veneer plywood that I’ve had laying around for 10 years or so. The legs are of ordinary 2×4 stud material. There is no finish on it. The stop rail is two 52” sections of Incra rail.
The saw is mounted on a Ridgid universal tool stand. Dad didn’t have a stand for it, and had it sitting on various things over the years.
This photo shows the right end of the fence. To the right of the blade, there is a partial spacer fence the same depth as the INCRA rail. The back of INCRA rail is fastened to the fence and the top of the extension table is fastened to the bottom of the INCRA rail.
The fence (sacrificial) of the RAS is clamped between the (wooden) table and a floating partial table at the back of the main table. This is the original table that came with the saw when my Dad bought it back in the mid-50’s. It’s not so flat, but my feeling so far is that it is usable.
Under the left front corner of the main table, I’ve got this little drawlatch which pulls the extension table tight to the main table. Since the back edge of the extension is fastened to the fence, which now extends 8’ to the left from the right edge of the main table, I didn’t think I needed any further fastening at the back.
The extension table is supported with two inverted “T” legs which are mounted to door hinges so that the table can be folded for ease of storage or transport when removed from the main saw table. The bottom of each T leg has two “T-bolt” inserts which provide for height adjustment of each corner of the extension table.
Here’s a view from upstairs.
The left side of the saw.
Another left angle view.
This has almost nothing to do with the RAS, but it’s the partially floored upstairs of my shop. When I finish this, I can move a lot of stored craft materials (my wife’s yarn, fabrics etc.) upstairs to free up space to really get my shop set up. So, finishing that is top shop priority!
16 comments so far
Tedstor
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948 posts in 830 days
#1 posted 794 days ago
I love the old iron. Nice machine. Nice save. I recently refurbed a drill press that appears to be from that series/era.
Ocelot
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81 posts in 835 days
#2 posted 794 days ago
Thanks for your comments Tedstor. I’d like to see some photos of that drill press.
Beginningwoodworker
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13238 posts in 1870 days
#3 posted 794 days ago
Nice looking RAS!
-- CJIII Future cabinetmaker
gagewestern
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296 posts in 1547 days
#4 posted 793 days ago
has your saw been painted i just picked up one just like iton CL but in black. also i can’t hind any mod #s on mine.looks good!
-- gagewestern
Gregn
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1639 posts in 1181 days
#5 posted 793 days ago
Looks like my 58 model except for color. They’re good saws even if there mounted to a Ridgid stand. LOL
Nice upper space in the shop, maybe enough room to have a small office even.
-- I don't make mistakes, I have great learning lessons, Greg
Ocelot
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81 posts in 835 days
#6 posted 793 days ago
Gagewestern,
I’m pretty sure mine has not been painted. It’s not the sort of thing my Dad would have done. That’s the original color.
Ocelot
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81 posts in 835 days
#7 posted 793 days ago
Gregn,
I suppose I could paint over the “Ridgid” sign, or maybe it’s stuck on there someway where I can take it off. I never thought about it. I’ll have to take a look.
Gregn
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1639 posts in 1181 days
#8 posted 793 days ago
I’m not sure but I think different years had used different colors much like Shop Smith and other manufactures. Mine is machinery gray. Thats pretty cool that it was your Dads RAS, mine was bought used, although I do have some tools that were my grandfathers and from dear departed friends. Its kinda like they are there in the shop with me.
-- I don't make mistakes, I have great learning lessons, Greg
Gregn
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1639 posts in 1181 days
#9 posted 793 days ago
Ocelot, I was just pulling on your chain. Whatever works is all that matters. I do plan on taking mine off the stand and mounting it in a bench type system, due to my new shop is narrower than my last shop even though the sq.footage is almost the same.
-- I don't make mistakes, I have great learning lessons, Greg
Ocelot
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81 posts in 835 days
#10 posted 793 days ago
I’m not sure what year it is. I looked the model number up on the Emerson Electric web site. Emerson will giive me $100 to remove the motor and send it to them (scrap the saw to settle some kind of safety lawsuite, apparently). I’ll go take a photo of the labels and post them. I’m pretty sure Dad had it before I was born (in ‘58) and aquired it after he married (in ‘52).
Ocelot
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81 posts in 835 days
#11 posted 793 days ago
Here’s the motor cover.
Ocelot
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81 posts in 835 days
#12 posted 793 days ago
Here’s the front of the base.
Ocelot
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81 posts in 835 days
#13 posted 793 days ago
The most important label on the left side of the base. My photo came out badly. I’ll have to shoot it again.
Ocelot
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81 posts in 835 days
#14 posted 793 days ago
Gregn,
No prob with chain-pulling, but on the other hand, there’s no particular reason I shouldn’t pull the “Ridgid” logo off of there if I have a spare moment and it looks easy.
I can see that you could get it closer to the wall with a different stand arrangment. The legs of the stand are slanted for stability, but it really doesn’t need that on the back.
Gregn
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1639 posts in 1181 days
#15 posted 793 days ago
I’m sure someone can tell you from OWWM can tell you the year.
http://vintagemachinery.org/
Yeah Emerson told me the same thing because they didn’t have the retro kit for the blade guard, they did send me a manual for mine though.
-- I don't make mistakes, I have great learning lessons, Greg
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