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1911 Automatic Rubber Band Gun with working slide.

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Blog entry by Nick_R posted 12-27-2013 01:08 AM 12613 reads 9 times favorited 6 comments Add to Favorites Watch

This is a long project and I was asked to put together a HowTo blog. I will do my best and have taken lots of pictures. My project is located HERE Three Guns For Christmas

A few words and warnings. First if you use this blog to build rubber band guns for children you must paint the tips bright orange. These are very realistic and could get a kid shot or killed. DO NOT MAKE THESE FOR CHILDREN unless you make sure they are easily identified as Toys. Please please please

This is not an easy project you will use all your woodworking skills.
The owner of the plans and the project is on You Tube HERE

He asks you do not use these plans to make money or resell the guns. I have to honor his wishes and hope you do as well. Also.. Watch his video I am sure it will fill in the blanks that I miss.

I have also converted the metric over to inches.

As always… It is required you wear all safety gear, practice safe woodworking, no shortcuts and this is all your responsibility. By taking this project on you agree to abide by the rules.

Step 1:

Download the PDF from HERE

This will give you the diagram and part cutouts you need.

Step 2:

Gather and sharpen all your tools. You will need at a minimum:

Wood Chisels
Scroll Saw or Band Saw or Coping Saw
Wood Files
Strips of good sandpaper 150 grit
Belt Sander
Hammer
Hack Saw
Carpenters Vice with very flat jaws
Back saw or Japanese flex saw
Drill or drill press
Screwdriver
Planer
Wood Glue

Step 3:

Choose 3 boards ( I like to mix the wood for contrast).

Board 1 – will be for the body, grips and some interior pieces. It should be 12”x 6” x 1/4” thick
Board 2 – Is for the slides and trigger. I should be 12” x 4” x 3/8” thick
Board 3 – Is for the trigger locks and slide locks as well as the rubber band “wheel”. 6” x 3” x 1/8” thick

NOTE:::: PAY ATTENTION TO THE THICKNESS. THEY ARE EXTREMELY IMPORTANT.

Step 4:

Print out the PDF and cut out the images and pieces pasting them to the correct board.

NOTE::: ON THE PICTURES YOU WILL SEE MEASUREMENTS IN PENCIL. IGNORE THEM PLEASE

The slides, trigger and hammer should be a hard wood.

The holes should be drilled before you cut. I used a drill press because the holes have to be perfectly straight.
I also did not drill out the large hole for the safety switch. I just didn’t like it.

The doubled up piece is so your body and grips match. One slide is different since it has notches and the ejection port. So once you cut it out separate them before you proceed.

Step 5:

Cut out your pieces and keep things STRAIGHT and FLAT. I cannot emphasize this enough. Sand edges and round the edges on the top of the slides.

Sand and smooth each piece. Be careful not to remove to much material. When you are satisfied… Move on to next step.

Step 6:

The trigger and the front slide block will take some patience and a sharp chisel. These pieces actually attach to the slide. The top of each piece is full thickness 3/8” and the bottom is trimmed down to 1/4”. I used a chisel to thin them down. I also used some bad words. :)

These pieces slide on the body parts. They need to be shorter than the barrel block when assembling, so more trimming might be needed.

DO NOT GLUE THE BARREL TO THE BLOCK

The rest of the pieces can be placed as shown.

Once the glue sets…. Its time to work on the slide…

Step 7:

IMPORTANT NOT TO GET GLUE WHERE THE SLIDE WILL SLIDE.

Place the right side slide in the forward position. Line up the parts using the page one from the PDF.
Glue the trigger and the front barrel block to the slide as shown. YES I USE A PIN NAILER TOO

MORE TOMORROW….

-- Hope for the best but plan for the worst. - 7 finger Nick :)



6 comments so far

View HillbillyShooter's profile

HillbillyShooter

4792 posts in 988 days


#1 posted 12-27-2013 02:47 AM

Thanks for a great, in-depth and well photographed blog! Definitely a favorite and on my list.

-- John C. -- "Firearms are second only to the Constitution in importance; they are the peoples' liberty's teeth." George Washington

View Avg_Joe's profile

Avg_Joe

66 posts in 436 days


#2 posted 12-27-2013 03:16 PM

Wow!!! Just wow! Love the detail and photos! Well done!

View Nick_R's profile

Nick_R

141 posts in 846 days


#3 posted 12-27-2013 09:34 PM

Part 2:

Step 8:

Insert and glue the top slide blocks.

This is a really tricky part and take your time.. Put the three pieces together. Make sure the slide moves easily and does not bind. If it does, sand, scrap, chisel, adjust until it does.

The place a nail in the “wheel” hole and the trigger hole placing those pieces in place.

Temporarily put the wheel stop block in position as shown.. NOTE the position.

Slowly move the slide back and when the trigger gets near the back of the guard the wheel should clear the stop block!!!!!

By the time the trigger is fully depressed the wheel should be clear of the block and then hitting the hammer.

Glue in place.

Take your time and make sure otherwise it will not fire correctly.

Step 9:

Using the nails you have in place slide the left slide in position and glue. Again make sure nothing binds up the slide action on the barrel.

Then do the same for the left body piece. Then start some finish sanding.

Step 10:

Take the nails you used for temporary pinning and cut them down and insert to hold the hammer and wheel in place.

Step 11:

Shape and sand the grips. Pin in place using existing holes and glue.

Step 12:

Shape and sand the locks. You might want to thin them a little and screw in place so the swing out of the way.

Step 13:

Sand, shape, sand, shape, sand, shape till you are happy.. then finish with your favorite finish.

I hope this helps.

-- Hope for the best but plan for the worst. - 7 finger Nick :)

View Avg_Joe's profile

Avg_Joe

66 posts in 436 days


#4 posted 12-29-2013 06:45 PM

You totally rock! Personally… I am a bit AR… So I really appreciate the details and organization! Wow! Cool!

View JbWo's profile

JbWo

27 posts in 201 days


#5 posted 04-13-2014 10:45 AM

Good instructional. Working on the gun now. Started it before I found your instructions. Am using inches also. Same thicknesses as you only using birch plywood. I made a SketchUp model to help which is at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5TdYw8iEoPk . The SketchUp model is available on my web site at http://worksgunwerks.weebly.com/the-downloads.html . The model is being updated as work continues. Will upload new model when finished. Note: I also accidentally have the ejector on the wrong side (model is correct though).
Jb Wo

-- Jb Wo

View Flynn311's profile

Flynn311

1 post in 108 days


#6 posted 07-15-2014 01:39 AM

Here is my version of the 1911. Made it with maple and walnut and finished it up with Birdseye maple grips.

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