To make the crib into the toddler bed, the front is removed and the toddler guard rail is connected to the end assemblies.

To make the crib into the day bed, the toddler guard rail is removed and the front caps are bolted onto the end assemblies.

To make the crib into the full size bed, you remove the end assemblies and attach the bed rails with slats to the head and front assemblies of the crib.

The crib is done and I will finish it after I get done building the 6 drawer dresser.

I need to make the guard rail for the toddler bed and the bed rails with slats for the full size bed yet. This will be done after I get more wood for the 6 drawer chest. I am going to wait to finish the crib until after I get the chest done. Next I will show what the toddler bed, day bed and full size bed looks like together.

Step 1. After cutting the pieces for the end assemblies to finished size, I laid out the slats and doweled them to the bottom and top boards. The bottom board and slats are glued, but the wide top board and slats are not; again, I had to remember to work from the center out.

Step 2. The next step was to cut the curve on the bottom of the top board. I marked the center of the board and lined it up with the center of the smaller jig. I traced the curve on the board and cut close to the line with a jig saw. I then clamped the board to the jig and routed it to the curve on the jig. Before I cut the board, I drilled the dowel holes deeper to mark where the slats would be.

Step 3. I then had to figure out the length of the slats. I did this by laying out where the legs went and moved the top board down 2 ½” from the top of the legs and marked where the slats hit the top board.

Step 4. I was able to slide the slats into the smaller jig and mark the contour on each slat. I used the jigsaw to cut off close to the lines. I then lined up the marks with the jig and routed the slats flush with the jig.

Step 5. After that, I glued the slats to the top board – the jig allowed me to get a nice fit.

Step 6. After the sub assembly was dry, I doweled the short leg to the top and bottom boards. The longer leg is attached to the end assemblies with threaded inserts and connector bolts.

The top caps, bent moldings and trim pieces were glued up using the two jigs.

The headboard assembly will need one top cap, two pieces of bent molding, and two trim pieces. The end assemblies will need just top caps.

I am in the process of attaching these pieces to the headboard and end assemblies.

After this is done, I will finish sanding all the assemblies and bore all the holes for the connector bolts, threaded inserts and cross dowels.

I also need to make the guard rail for the toddler bed and the bed rails and slats for the full size bed.

After cutting the pieces for the front assembly to finish size, I laid out the slats and doweled them to the bottom and top boards. I had to remember to work from the center out for layout and routing. While the glue was drying, I shaped all my different moldings.

The next step was to put the top and bottom cap boards on and cut and fit the moldings to them. Then I added the feet and turned pieces. The front assembly is sanded and ready for finishing. I do have to put in 6 threaded inserts but will do that after I determine where they go.

After cutting the pieces for the head board assembly to finish size, I laid out the slats and doweled them to the bottom board and wide top board. The bottom board and slats are glued but the wide top board and slats are not; again, I had to remember to work from the center out.

The next step was to cut the curve on the bottom of the top board. I marked the center of the board and lined it up with the center of the jig. I traced the curve on the board and cut close to the line with a jig saw. I then clamped the board to the jig and routed it to the curve on the jig. Before I cut the board, I drilled the dowel holes deeper to mark where the slots would go.

I then had to figure out the length of the slats. I did this by laying out where the legs went and moved the top board down 10 ¾” from the top of the legs and marked where the slats hit the top board.

I was then able to slide the slats into the jig and mark the contour on each slat. I used the jig saw to cut off close to the lines. I then lined up the marks with the jig and routed the slats flush with the jig.

After that, I glued the slats to the top board – the jig allowed me to get a nice fit.

When the sub assembly was dry, I doweled the legs to the top and bottom boards. Then I put the curve on the top of the top board in the same manner that I did the bottom curve. This assembly is ready to sand and put the curved moldings on after I get them glued up and shaped.

I will start the side assemblies next.

I used 2 sheets of ¾ inch particle board to make these jigs. The first thing I needed to do was make patterns out of poster board. I then taped them onto ¼ inch masonite and cut them out.

These templates were used to rout the first board of each size. Then the first boards were used as a template for the rest of the boards. I put the template on the bottom of each new piece to be routed. I clamped them together and used a flush trim bit with bearing. (Once you rout through the board, you MUST keep both pieces together; the top half and bottom half will fit perfectly together.)

The slats in the ends and headboard assemblies need to fit tight to the curved pieces. I used the same pieces for the jig that will form all the curved pieced. I laid out the spacer blocks, working from the center out, making sure the spacers hang over the curved edges. These will be routed off to the contours of the headboard bottom and the end assembly’s top. I need to order a longer bit to do this.

I continued putting pieces together until I got 5 layers. I used the combination square to keep the layers even. The most important edge to keep square is the contour edge. I marked them so that they could not be turned over by mistake. I would hate to be gluing up the strips and find out that one of the sections had been flipped over and they did not match.

I used a cloth tape to measure my curved pieces. All the curved pieces are going to be longer, then cut to fit during the assembly.

Now I am ready to get the cherry wood and start cutting strips into the different widths and lengths I need. I am guessing I can go with ¼ inch thick strips for the glue up. I will need to play a little to see what thickness will work. The next blog will cover the glue up of the moldings and trim pieces.

The Ezee-Feed Table has proven to be the answer. With the folding legs, it is easy to store when not in use, which is a must in a small shop like mine. The Ezee–Feed system is exactly what I was looking for and fits my needs perfectly. I would like to tell you about the product, the service, and how it works to make me say “I can’t believe I didn’t buy it sooner”!

Let’s talk about first impressions. How many times have you gotten a heavy piece of equipment and have it arrive with parts hanging out of the cardboard box? Or worse yet, have missing parts because the box is open? At the very least, items I have purchased have arrived with loose parts that have rubbed together and bounced off of each other so that there is scratches and wear to my “new” item. (You’ve all seen my shop so you know I’m a little picky about condition.) The Ezee-Feed came to me in a wooden crate. I opened it with a pry bar, not a utility knife. There was a wood brace and cardboard holding everything in place.

After unpacking, I found all the pieces were there, and all were in perfect condition.

There were detailed instructions and pictures that make sense, obviously written by someone who knows woodworking first-hand.

It took me about two hours to put everything together, get it mounted to the saw and adjusted. There were three things that I had to do a little differently to get things to work well for me. I had to move the power switch on my Powermatic 2000 farther to the left. When mounting the track to the mounting brackets, I had to put the spacers on top of the sliding mounting bracket instead of the top of the track to get the spacing I needed. And I had to cut the mounting bracket above the saw crank level with the bottom of the track (the last modification was to prevent barking up my knuckles on the bracket). I considered these changes minor and expected since all saws are different and adjustments are just part of adding any improvements to shop equipment.

I used spring clamps for added stability of the bracket to the table unit, but found that it wasn’t necessary. It’s just a “Tom” thing.

The sheet just glides along as you feed it into the saw. I can easily concentrate on keeping the wood even with the fence and there is no effort whatsoever. I truly believe you could cut a sheet with one hand. Now my wife doesn’t have to worry about me being hurt when cutting sheet stock. I could see where you could increase production greatly with the help of this infeed table.

This is a quality product that is made by people who care about customer satisfaction and take pride in what they are selling. And are you ready for this?! When you buy the table, the president of the company gives you his personal cell phone number and you can call him day or night! My hat goes off to Lee Jesberger and his staff. Thank you from a satisfied customer. I only have one complaint – the track should have been red to match my shop!

The new equipment I got is set up, adjusted, hooked into the dust collection system and is ready to go. I will do individual tool reviews as I use them more.

All of the equipment was very well packaged and had no damage from delivery. There were no missing parts and all the hardware to assemble everything was there. I felt the assembly instructions were good and I had no problem with any of the assemblies. Very little adjustment, if any, was needed on any of the equipment. It is well built and good quality. I am pleased with what I’ve purchased so far.

Jet 14” Pro Band Saw

Jet 12” Planer/Jointer

Jet 17” Drill Press

Jet 1 ½ HP Shaper

Powermatic Bench Top Mortiser

Jet 16-32 Drum Sander

Ridgid Oscillating Edge/Spindler Sander

I have not been looking much at the LJ site for the last month and a half because I have been mostly bow hunting during my free time. I shot a nice 9 point buck and decided it was time to get back in the shop again.

While I was hunting, my new equipment was delivered. I got a Jet 14” Deluxe Pro Band Saw, Jet 17” Drill Press, Jet 12” Planer/Jointer Combo, Jet 1 1/2 HP Shaper, Jet 16-32 Drum Sander, Rigid Oscillating Edge Belt/Spindle Sander and a Powermatic Bench Top Mortiser. Seven good reasons to get back in the shop! I want to thank my lovely wife for allowing me to get this equipment.

As I get the equipment set up, I will add pictures of each piece here and do a separate tool review as I use them for awhile. It is great to be back in the shop and looking at the LJ site again. Do you realize how many postings are put on in a month and a half !!!!! I don’t think I will ever get caught up again.

God Bless

tom

Because my shop is small, I need to use ever available space I have. I put an air hose reel with filter on the back wall where my assembly table is going to be to run my nailers and staplers. I ran an air line from the reel to the compressor which is sitting in the bottom of the storage cabinet next to my cyclone.

I also have a coil hose attached to the compressor with a blow gun for cleaning up. Thanks for looking!

These are the sketches I did for the arbors and picket fence sections:

Here are pictures of the first arbor and me making fence sections:

Here we are starting to install the first arbor and fence sections.

Once it’s all put together, I’ll post pictures of the finished fence. This is the “first” project coming out of my new shop and the wife is very happy that she got the first finished project!!

God Bless
tom

I have been laid up now for two weeks with gout in the left foot. Never had it in my life. I would not wish this on anybody. Well maybe one or two. I have had pain in my life before but never for so long of a period. My wife kids me, that a real man would drag it behind him, NOT! Everytime I lift up my foot or straighten it out when I sit down after standing or walking it takes my breath away. Been seeing the doctor for the past two week and go back tomorrow. My wife always tells me things happen for a reason. This has been a turning point in my life. Stopped eating alot of red meat and went to more fish, chicken and turkey. Stopped drinking pop and started drinking cherry juice, water and tea. Eat a lot of fruit and vegtables. I found out there is more than corn and banans. Started eating a lot less, loosing weight and feel better. Go figure!. I am going to be a lean, mean, sex machine! Like most of the guys my age we were raised on home made breads, fried meat and potatos.

Does anyone have any suggestion on reliefing this pain, grandmas old remedy, medications you have taken? Any information would be greatly appriciated. A prayer for me would be greatly appriciated as well.

God Bless
tom

God Bless
tom

The dust collection unit that I chose for my 14 X 21 shop was the Temp142CX from Penn State Industries. Some specifications and reasons for picking this unit are as follows:

2 HP, 220V Motor
14” Impeller – 6 Fin
½ Micron Filter Cartridges
Up to 12 Drops
Up to 30 Ft. Runs
Up to 1200 Sq. Ft.
5 Yr. Warranty

I used the economy 26 GA duct work which was noticeably heavier than the stores. Penn State had everything I needed to put this unit in. There was nothing that I ordered that they did not have.

Everything went together very well, from the cyclone unit to the duct work. It took me 5 days to put everything in. I will hook up the hoses as I get the new equipment.

There were three accessories I added to my dust collection system:

1. Cyclone muffler, which really makes a difference. It is quieter than a shop vac.

2. A long range remote dust collection switch and motor starter.

3. Recirculating clean-out system to clean the micron canisters.

The only thing I am going to add to the system is a level cyclone bin sensor.

Penn State Industries had quick shipping and great technical and product support if needed. I highly recommend Penn State Industries and their products. A special thank you to Bill Whitaker for his assistance and guidance.

These are the components for the cyclone unit. All the parts were there and it went together very easily.

This is what the cyclone looked like after being put together and hung on the wall.

Because I am working by myself, I had to figure out a way to hold up the duct sections while I hung them from the ceiling. I came up with a cradle on my scaffolding to accomplish this.

If you have the height, it is better to come straight out of the cyclone. If you do not, you need to come out gradually for better air flow.

I have two main runs on each side of the shop. I used 6” duct on the mains and 4” on the drops.

You can see that I have quite a few elbows, laterals, wyes, reducers and blast gates.

I have a very understanding wife! She let me silicone the canisters together in the kitchen. I do not know if she was real keen on my putting her antique child’s trunk on top for weight.

Here are some pictures of the accessories I added to my dust collection system – the recirculating clean-out system, long range remote and cyclone muffler.

I built a storage cabinet in the dead space between the cyclone and the wall. You will also notice that the wainscoting is done and the chair rail is on. All I need to do is clean up the floor and put the baseboard on.

This is my first major piece of bigger equipment. It is a Makita12” sliding miter box saw. What a great machine! Hope to order the table saw the end of this month.

Thanks for looking at my shop!