LumberJocks

Tapered Display Tower - beetle-kill pine #5: False tenons (Mahogany) with wedges (beetle-kill pine) ?

  • Advertise with us
Blog entry by NBeener posted 10-11-2010 01:00 AM 1766 reads 0 times favorited 21 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 4: Take out the BIGGEST guy first. Part 5 of Tapered Display Tower - beetle-kill pine series Part 6: Universal truths »

Today, I took some scrap African Mahogany (what a nice thing to have. It’s like saying you have “traveler’s checks left over from your vacation !”), and re-did the false tenons for the display tower.

Rather than use templates, I just laid everything out on the stock, took two 3/8” passes with the dado stack, then ripped to length, cut the bottom at 3*, cut out the tenons, routed the chamfer, and lightly sanded the notches.

Here’s the result:

Now the question: Obviously, I can re-cut the wedges out of mahogany, too, but … personal preference … who thinks I should re-make the wedges, who thinks I should leave the wood pairing as it is, and … who recommends a different wood (other than the beetle-kill pine) for the wedges.

In other words, my wife is out of town, and I’m pretty useless at the artistic part of all of this.

Any thoughts ??

TIA !

-- -- Neil



21 comments so far

View Beginningwoodworker's profile

Beginningwoodworker

13347 posts in 3133 days


#1 posted 10-11-2010 01:37 AM

Looks good Neil, you got to two something with your time. :)

View NBeener's profile

NBeener

4808 posts in 2634 days


#2 posted 10-11-2010 01:40 AM

Thanks, Charles :-)

What do you think of using those two species of wood, together, though—good look or not so good ?

-- -- Neil

View SPalm's profile

SPalm

5256 posts in 3342 days


#3 posted 10-11-2010 01:44 AM

I say go with what you already got. Looks good from here.

Are the wedges to be permanently attached? Or can you just leave them loose right now, finish the project, and if you really hate them, then make new ones.

Steve

-- -- I'm no rocket surgeon

View patron's profile

patron

13535 posts in 2801 days


#4 posted 10-11-2010 01:47 AM

i’m with steve on this neil

change them later if they grow old

get back to smacking that bag

or a new project

-- david - only thru kindness can this world be whole . If we don't succeed we run the risk of failure. Dan Quayle

View NBeener's profile

NBeener

4808 posts in 2634 days


#5 posted 10-11-2010 01:48 AM

Works for me !

No reason they have to be permanently affixed.

Thanks, Gents.

-- -- Neil

View SPalm's profile

SPalm

5256 posts in 3342 days


#6 posted 10-11-2010 01:56 AM

I agree with JorgeC too. Walnut or something contrasting is what I would drift to. If you want to drift.

Dang, don’t we all get along just a little too well?
Steve

-- -- I'm no rocket surgeon

View NBeener's profile

NBeener

4808 posts in 2634 days


#7 posted 10-11-2010 01:59 AM

Sorry, Jorge. I guess a picture WOULD have helped ;-)

It’s this:

Walnut would probably be an excellent choice. Thanks !

-- -- Neil

View PurpLev's profile

PurpLev

8523 posts in 3108 days


#8 posted 10-11-2010 02:44 AM

Sorry, but since the shelves are Pine, making the false tenon out of anything else just seems counterproductive to me – but I have been known to be wrong – once!

as for the wedges – it really boils down to what looks good, and in this case – the wedges made of alternate wood would add a nice accent – I’d go with mahogany wedges, and pine false tenons. read – you’ll have more work to do ;) but I think it’ll be worth it at the end of things.

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

View patron's profile

patron

13535 posts in 2801 days


#9 posted 10-11-2010 05:11 AM

you didn’t have the picture up
when we commented earlier
the shelves are pine
the ends are part of them
should be pine too
the wedge can be a contrasting wood

-- david - only thru kindness can this world be whole . If we don't succeed we run the risk of failure. Dan Quayle

View NBeener's profile

NBeener

4808 posts in 2634 days


#10 posted 10-11-2010 05:16 AM

Nah.

You’re all 100% right.

I really got lost in the concept of fixing the false tenons, and doing it right, and … in the meantime …. lost track of the larger picture.

I’ll be re-making the false tenons, from pine, tomorrow. I’ll look at some darker options for the wedges after that.

Ya’ ever paid SO much attention to driving safely that …. you kind of end up in the wrong place ?

Yeah. That ;-)

-- -- Neil

View Dick, & Barb Cain's profile

Dick, & Barb Cain

8693 posts in 3759 days


#11 posted 10-11-2010 05:49 AM

I’m a little late, I think you’re right about using the same wood,

but I do like the idea of a contrasting wood for the pins.


-- -** You are never to old to set another goal or to dream a new dream ****************** Dick, & Barb Cain, Hibbing, MN. http://www.woodcarvingillustrated.com/gallery/member.php?uid=3627&protype=1

View BertFlores58's profile

BertFlores58

1684 posts in 2382 days


#12 posted 10-11-2010 09:26 AM

Additionally, for a very realistic wedge tightness, there should be at least 1/4” distance of the pins curve to the top surface of the slot. This reveals real tightness… only for those who knew wedges will see that pins are tight with the slots on the top only and loose on the bottom side. ... Do I make sense .. Nevermind, Anyway it is what it should be a FAKE TENONS …. LOL

-- Bert

View Jim Bertelson's profile

Jim Bertelson

3962 posts in 2624 days


#13 posted 10-11-2010 05:18 PM

I am with Dick and the others. Seems like you are tending that way as well. Work week starts again today, got in a fair amount of shop time over the weekend….........

Jim

-- Jim, Anchorage Alaska

View Dick, & Barb Cain's profile

Dick, & Barb Cain

8693 posts in 3759 days


#14 posted 10-11-2010 05:45 PM

Neil,

If you ever build another unit like this you should build it with real tenons.

-- -** You are never to old to set another goal or to dream a new dream ****************** Dick, & Barb Cain, Hibbing, MN. http://www.woodcarvingillustrated.com/gallery/member.php?uid=3627&protype=1

View NBeener's profile

NBeener

4808 posts in 2634 days


#15 posted 10-11-2010 07:41 PM

Nah. You’re all still right, or … right again.

As my brother always reminds me: these plans are nothing more than a starting point.

That’s right.

But … for a million reasons that don’t matter, here … I’ve wanted to “follow the recipe,” just for one less thing to think about.

But … yeah … I can DO real M&T joinery, so … I could have, or should have.

And … yeah … I understand that I should dimension the wedge/tenon coupling so that the wedge is NOT all the way down, when it’s in there.

Good things to think about. I’ll incorporate those thoughts, when I get back to it.

Who knows ? Maybe I’ll make a gift of this one, and DO the next one in hardwood….

Who knows ? ;-)

-- -- Neil

showing 1 through 15 of 21 comments

Have your say...

You must be signed in to post the comments.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com