Constructing "Old 99" #3: A bumpy ride.

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Blog entry by MrWoody posted 08-27-2008 01:59 PM 1038 reads 0 times favorited 4 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 2: Continuing the journey Part 3 of Constructing "Old 99" series Part 4: Sitting on the by-pass. »

Unfortunately I got involved in the next part and forgot to take pictures. The camera is now in the shop. I’ll do my best to explain what I did.
After re-reading this, I decided that even I couldn’t understand what I did, so I used a piece of scrap poplar and made the cuts so I could take pictures. Back to page 2 of the plans. I mentioned earlier that a piece needed to be fit between the turned boiler and the base. On page 3 there is another piece that needs to fit on top of the boiler. To start you need the actual diameter of the boiler at the spot where the support block goes. The plans say it is 2 5/8” mine isn’t. My boiler is actually 2 11/16”. Page 2 boiler support block is 3/4” thick and page 3 headlamp base is 3/8”. I decided to cut both pieces out of the same piece. Using my circle cutter on my drill press I drilled a 2 11/16” hole.
Then I marked reference lines on each side of the hole so I could find centre. I actually had a centre line marked but the bit on the circle cutter must be dull, it moved.


The boiler support had to be 1 3/4” wide on center of the hole and the headlamp base had to be 1 3/8”.
One was marked on either edge of the board then I sliced it up the middle, lengthwise. I should mention that I left both these pieces about 8” long so I have something to hang onto. I now have 2 pieces with half a circle cut out on each piece that is still too wide.


The boiler support is 1 3/4” wide by 3/4” thick by 1 3/16” high but it has to fit between the boiler and the base so I ripped the piece marked for the boiler support at 1 1/4”. Now the piece for the headlamp base is still 3/4” thick by approximately 1 3/8” wide. I need 3/8” X 3/8” X 1 3/8”. I ripped it along the upper line which is the top of the lamp base/bracket. I raised the blade just enough to cut through the arc when I set the piece on its edge. Set the fence at 3/8” and with a push stick made a pass over the blade making sure my reference marks were against the fence.


Saw guard removed for picture clarity.

Now with the marks against the table and the keeper piece against the fence I made another pass over the blade. My push stick has a 1/2” hook so the cut piece passes by the blade and doesn’t bind.


Saw guard removed for picture clarity.

The boiler support needs to be checked for clearance, as I deliberately left it heavy I need to trim it.


I sneaked up on the correct height.


I now have the 2 pieces I need.


Using my miter gauge and my reference marks I cut them to length. The top of each piece has an angled cut on each side. I just marked them and sanded them off at the belt sander.


-- If we learn from our mistakes, I'm getting a fantastic education.

4 comments so far

View toyguy's profile


1652 posts in 3836 days

#1 posted 08-27-2008 03:02 PM

I like the fact that you told us about leaving the piece long so you have something to hang on to….... That’s a lesson I had to find out the hard way. Nice work Woody.

-- Brian, Ontario Canada,

View John Gray's profile

John Gray

2370 posts in 3884 days

#2 posted 08-27-2008 04:50 PM

Thanks again please keep them coming!!!

-- Only the Shadow knows....................

View Dick, & Barb Cain's profile

Dick, & Barb Cain

8693 posts in 4298 days

#3 posted 08-27-2008 07:50 PM

Very nice!

I just jumped on for the ride today.

Its been a fun ride so far.

-- -** You are never to old to set another goal or to dream a new dream ****************** Dick, & Barb Cain, Hibbing, MN.

View Karson's profile


35121 posts in 4399 days

#4 posted 09-01-2008 04:02 PM

I’m working backward. I’d missed a bunch of the earlier posts.

-- I've been blessed with a father who liked to tinker in wood, and a wife who lets me tinker in wood. Southern Delaware soon moving to Virginia †

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