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70K views 136 replies 35 participants last post by  Mosquito 
#1 ·
Table of Contents

Greetings,

This blog series is going to be for postings that don't necessarily go with anything else, and/or entries that will be just a single post. I will probably use it mainly for random things around the shop. Stuff like jigs, tool holders, etc.

I'm going to use this first blog entry as a "Table of Contents" of sorts.

Mortise Chisel RackRack built for my mortise chisels, out of scraps
Travel Plane TillA small cabinet style plane till with a carrying handle
Adjustable Plane TillPlane till with adjustable dividers
Plane Swap 2013Plane I made for the 2013 Plane Swap
Stanley #45 8H & 8RUsing my Stanley #45 8H & 8R bases to make an ogee
Stanley #55 MoldingsPracticing using the Stanley #55 for some mouldings
Grinder StandGrinder stand with some 'plans' added
Winding SticksMaking some winding sticks
Stanley #55 Set Up Follow UpA quick follow up on how I set up a #55
M-W TCA Regional Tool Meet Feb 2016A video about a recent M-W TCA meet I went to
Using a Shooting BoardA quick video about using a shooting board
 
#4 ·
Mortise Chisel Rack

This was a short and quick project using some scraps I had to make a rack for my mortise chisels. I was cleaning up the shop, and got to these, which were just sitting on the floor. I saw them and thought I should make a rack for them.

It was pretty simple, mostly poplar, with some oak dowel.

I don't have pictures of the "stock prep" stage, but I started by cutting the two bottom pieces to the same size, as well as the two vertical pieces. Then I marked marked them to mortise the verticals into the feet.

To do this, I marked them, used a knife to make the cuts, and a chisel to pare to the knife line, and repeated until I had a decent starting point. Then I used the chisel to clear out a large amount of the waste, and finally the #71 to clean it up, and get consistent dept on both of them.



Yes, I didn't go to the line, but that was just a layout line that was measured. what's important is that it's a tight fit to the vertical piece.

Then, for the top horizontal piece, I cut a narrower piece to length, then drilled and pegged it to the vertical pieces


I added dowels as cross pieces between the two feet, to keep them from bending towards each other (which they were trying to do)


Drilled the holes for the chisels to sit in, and there you have it. My mortise chisel rack.


 
#10 ·
Travel Plane Till

This was a project that I posted a little while ago. The back story is that I live in an apartment about 35 minutes from my parents' place. I go back and forth between the two if I'm doing extensive work where noise might be an issue (mortising, any power tools, etc). Not liking making a lot of trips to carry handplanes down the stairs, I built this special till to make that easier…

I started by using some poplar for the top and sides, and dovetailed them together.








Then, I started work on the front door. For this I decided to try something I hadn't done before, and do a raised panel door. I made the frame using pegged bridle joints. This was all done with hand tools

Here was my small scale test of this process.


Right, good enough for me :)

Got to work making the front door


Jacked


Jointed


And smoothed


I got lazy with pictures when making the raised panel, but I cut a rabbet with the #45, and then made the raised panel portion with the #3

Here it is just sitting on top of the other pieces


Quick test layout


Then I cut a piece of 3/4" edge glued pine to size, and pegged it in place. I glued the pegs into one side of board so they wouldn't move, and left the other side unglued, to allow for expansion. I also left a slight gap so I wouldn't have issues with it blowing apart.




Then for a little added strength and/or peace of mind, I pegged the pin board pieces into the tail board, so the sides couldn't pull the tails out. Due to the weight, I felt like over building, rather than having something go wrong


With that sorted, I attached latches and hinges to the front door, and then turned my sights on the handle.

For this, I used 2 pieces of hard maple, drilled and bolted them to the sides, after boring a hole half way through for a 1 3/8" oak dowel.


I got lazy with the pictures again, but here it is




 
#20 ·
Adjustable Plane Till

I posted this project recently, and had said I would do a blog about it, going into more depth than I did in my project posting. Here it goes…

I didn't take too many pictures of the work in progress, because quite plainly, it was pretty basic. Just cut some groves in a piece of 3/4" plywood, cut some poplar to length, and size, and screwed it all together.

I started out by making this little jig/poor mans drill press type thing. I used a rockler drill guide, and some scrap pieces of wood. The aluminum bar slides between two pieces on either side, and butt up against a stop block on the end. This ensures that all the aluminum pieces have holes 2" from the end. Or at least close enough.

I drilled 5/16" holes in them, even though the bolts are 1/4". I wanted a little buffer in case they weren't all perfectly aligned with the T-track.


For now I made 5 each, of 24", 18", and 12" pieces.


These are used in different T-tracks, depending on the planes they're used for, and their length.


Here I've used the router and a straight edge guide to rout the grooves for the T-track. I used 4' sections for the top and bottom rails, a 3' section for the 18" dividers, and a 2' section for the 12" dividers. I only did this because I only got 2 4' pieces of T-track when they were on sale, and so it was cheaper to get the 3' and 2' pieces. It works out fine, anyway, as can be seen later.


I cut a 1/2" groove 1/4" from the edge of a board that will be used for the bottom rest. I only cut it about 1/8 or 3/16" deep. I didn't really measure, because it doesn't really matter.




There were a couple reasons for why I cut the groove, and the size I picked.

First reason being, a place to rest the planes in so they couldn't somehow slide up and off the bottom board (not sure how, but hey, weird things happen)




And the second reason was in case the dividers weren't drilled perfectly, it allowed for some overhang (which is why I made it 1/2" wide)


For the side pieces, I glued a a pair of 3/4" boards together to make a rabbet, essentially. I left the side piece 1/2" above the plywood. This matches up to the height of the aluminum dividers (not necessary, but it would have bugged me otherwise).


I cut notches in the end boards so I could still slide the T-bolts in them. I did this with a hand saw and chisel


I cut the grooves for the T-track in the plywood to a depth of 7/16", so the T-track would sit about 1/16" below the surface. That is to keep any plane blades that don't get retracted from hitting them. The problem with that, was it only left about 1/4" to screw the T-track into.

I got some screws that were 1/2" and some that were 1". I alternated every other 1", starting on the ends with 1", and added some cross braces underneath.


After that, I cut some legs (I just eye-balled the angle, no idea what it is) and screwed them into the side pieces, and added a cross brace






I used 1/4-20 1" long T-bolts, and brass knurled nuts for the dividers




This is what this plane till was designed for. Here we've got a #4, #4, #5, #5.


Then, along comes a #4 1/2…


Now, being as picky as I am about things like this, I don't want to add it to the end, because it's larger than a #4, so it "belongs" between the #4's and #5's. With this till, not a problem.


Problem solved.

The T-track allows me to do pretty much whatever I can come up with. In this photo I'm using a spare 18" divider as a shelf for the Record 073 and Stanley #71, and made a custom shelf for my #45, a #46, and my spoke shave






A few other notes. I know it would have been cheaper to not use aluminum dividers, and instead use wood. That is what I was originally going to do, but then I decided to use the aluminum extrusions from 80/20 inc, because I could also use T-bolts in those as well. This allows me to make custom shelves or ladder type dividers for multiple block planes, or anything like that. I haven't done this yet, but it was just expanded flexibility. Whether or not it's "necessary" is up to whoever is using it. I just figured, if I'm going to run with this idea, I might as well go all out.

So there you have it. I hope that someone can find this useful, and feel free to ask any questions. I'll do my best to help as much as I can.
 
#26 ·
Making my Plane Swap entry

This is the plane I made for NateDog for the 2013 Plane Swap. It's made of red oak, and is sort of a hybrid between krenov and traditional.

It's made with 4 pieces, 1 for the bed and tote, one for the toe, and one on each side. This turned out to be good, as I could make multiple attempts at the sides before I settled on ones I was happy with (I believe I made 5 sides total).

The tote was then shaped out of the piece that's laminated in the middle.
The bed is 55° and is an older 2" ECE iron.

Made with all hand tools too :)

This is just a compilation of images of making the plane :)

The final project pictures can be found here: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/91014















































 
#58 ·
Practice Moldings with my Stanley #55



I've already posted this video on the Hand Plane and State of the Shop threads, but thought I'd preserve it this blog series as well.

I'm using my Stanley #55 for the first time (Technically the 2nd time, as I did a practice with this iron before I shot this video). It was relatively easy, and this was one of the more complex irons. It uses all 3 skates, and 1 fence.







 
#68 ·
Grinder Stand, with 'plans'

So along with several other LumberJocks, I got an 8" Slow Speed Grinder recently (last week).

This weekend I decided to spend some time to make a stand for it.
It only took me about an hour to build this, and I only used a pair of 2×4's and a piece of 12" x 18" 3/4" plywood (and some screws)



I also have a rough set of 'plans' that I made for it as well. Was pretty simple to do. Unfortunately, the camera was being less than cooperative (so I got none of it recorded). As such, I made these make shift assembly instructions the same way I built it. It may be useful or it may not, not really sure.



The assembled plan in sketchop



The exploded view of how the parts go together.



A cut list for the parts I used (also a link to a larger image).
2x32"
3x3-1/2"
2x12" with 45° partial miter on both ends
4x12" with 45° partial miter on one end
1x12"x18"x3/4" plywood



First step was to screw the pair of 32" pieces to the 3-1/2" pieces in the middle. This was in lieu of using a 4×4 (to cut down on cost/waste).



Next I attached the first foot to the 'front' of the column. I used 2 screws into the column to secure it.



I attached the second foot on the side. I again used 2 screws to secure it.



Third foot went on the same.



After the 4th foot was installed with 2 screws, I went back and put a 3rd screw in all the feet. This third screw went through one leg, into the end grain of the next one.



Next I used 2 screws to secure each of the two table supports to the column, taking care to get them roughly level (and the tops of the two co-planer).



The top is centered horizontally, with 3" of overhang on either side. I left more overhang on the front than the back (2" on the back, and 3-1/2" on the front). This was so I could have more space in front for installing an after market tool rest down the road.

I used 6 screws through the top into the supports to hold it down.
 
#82 ·
Winding Sticks

I started a new project this weekend, and part of that was prepping some rough cherry. What good projects generally start with, is another project first lol

I was looking for something to use as winding sticks (I usually use pieces of aluminum angles), when I decided I'd just make a set from some scraps instead (about time).

These are Poplar with Padauk accents. I used a scrap from a piece I had on my tool chest, but later removed (hence there's a few screw holes). It was pretty quick, maybe took 30-45 minutes or so. No finish yet, but may spray them with shellac once the weather dries out (and warms up) a little.





 
#84 ·
Stanley #55 Set Up Follow Up

I guess my definition of "Soon" is somewhat lax lol I had mentioned before (5 months ago, in this blog post I had taken some extra pictures and I would do a follow up on how I set up the various skates of the #55 to make the molding profile I had been testing out.

So this is the profile I had been using:


There are up to 3 skates on the #55 ( I used all 3 on this profile, but only two with the smaller version of it).

First is the skate that's on the main casting. I set the iron depth in the #55 to be where you would expect a #45 to be, or any other plow plane.


Then there is the sliding skate. The sliding skate on the #55 is much like that of a #45 or #45. The big difference between the #55 and those, however, is that it can also be adjusted up or down, as well as in or out on the rods.

I start by setting the sliding skate to be close to the outside edge of the iron


After the horizontal position is set and locked in, I adjust the vertical height, and position it just below the edge of the iron (ideally the same distance as the main skate and iron)


And lastly, there is an additional skate that can be used in between the other two skates. It is also height adjustable, and gets set in a similar way. Unfortunately I don't have many other detailed pictures of the actual setting up of the plane, just the skate positions.


And that's it, off and running. For the two smaller profiles I did not use the 3rd (center) skate, only on the largest one.


My approach is to set the iron in the main skate, and then set the sliding skate to the lowest outside point on the iron (in this case, the very outside has a fillet after the bead). Then I pick another arbitrary spot in the middle of the iron for the center skate (it is limited in how close to the sliding skate it can get, since that's what it's attached to).

Hopefully someone finds this useful. Once I get the new shop finished, set up, and get things rolling again I can do some more combination plane related blogs. They're probably my favorite planes to use (and probably why I have so many…)
 
#85 ·
Thanks for showing the skate set up, Mos!
Added to fav's so when I actually score a 55 I can play along. LOL. Still no router in my shop…I wanna learn to make moldings as nice as yours', though!

Good luck with the new shop!
 
#120 ·
Barnes Foot Powered Mortiser Disassembly






I finally got around to editing and uploading this video. After I got enough of the mortiser cleaned up to get it moving again, I disassembled it to get ready to start cleaning some of the parts up and getting rid of the rust. I haven't gotten very far on that part yet, but I did get it all disassembled.

Case Mod Portfolio: http://themodsquito.com
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"Great Skies" by Jay Man www.ourmusicbox.com

"Sock Hop" Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com)
Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 3.0 License
http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/3.0/
 
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