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need help-rebuilding a Craftsman 113.20650 Jointer

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Blog entry by MikeyL70 posted 04-03-2018 12:52 PM 347 reads 0 times favorited 7 comments Add to Favorites Watch

Anyone rebuild a craftsman 1 piece jointer before? I need to remove the cutterhead. I have the manual with the parts blow-up. I know there are a couple of screws that keep the cutterhead on the arbor shaft. Do I have to remove the snap rings to pull the shaft out? It looks like there are grooves to keep the cutterhead in place. Seems like I might have to find my snap-ring pliers….Thanks…



7 comments so far

View gleasoncraftworks's profile

gleasoncraftworks

28 posts in 1201 days


#1 posted 04-03-2018 04:26 PM

Hi Mikey,

I had one of these. I also rebuilt it, and I also was stumped for a very long time on how to remove the cutterhead. After getting nowhere, I decided to do the sole thing that seemed possible, which turned out to be the right way as far as I can tell.

The arbor is pressed all the way through the cutterhead, two bearings, and the jointer body. Remove the knives and the set screws (the ones in the center that hold it onto the arbor) from the cutterhead. Next, remove the outer retention clips that hold the bearings. There is one for each bearing. The inner retention clips can be easily removed later, or you can leave them in.

I don’t recall whether I pressed the arbor from the back towards the front, or vice versa. It may make no difference. Most likely, the manufacturer had a special machine or jig for pressing the arbor that distance, but I had to make do with hand tools. At first I used a hammer to beat the arbor as far as I could. I learned later that this was a mistake.

I should have used a 3/8” drive, 10 inch ratchet extension (impact-rated ideally), or something similar, and used the hammer to drive the arbor with that. The result of using the hammer directly on the arbor was a mushroom effect on the end that I had to grind down in order to get the arbor back in. You’ll need a ratchet extension or something long enough to go all the way through the machine while you firmly tap it with the hammer (don’t pound hard).

Before you press the arbor all the way through the cutterhead, make sure it is supported as you do not want to drop it on your foot. Don’t ask how I know. On the other hand, dropping on your foot is probably preferable to dropping it on the concrete floor and damaging it.

The process to reinstall is basically the reverse, but before you do, lube the arbor with some oil or light grease which will greatly help to get it back through the assembly. Put one bearing on the arbor and reinsert through the body. Next, align the cutterhead set screw holes with the indents on the arbor, and then press the arbor through. You will reinstall the other bearing from the opposite side.

I used a 1/2” drive, deep socket that I placed over the arbor and down onto the inner race of the bearing as a tool to hammer press it back into the body. If you do this, make sure the socket is not pressing on the bearing seals. Find the smallest socket that will fit over the arbor and onto the inner bearing race.

I hope it goes without saying that you should definitely replace the bearings. I do not recall the numbers, but they should be stamped on the seal.

Hopefully, this will help you. Let me know if I can help further. Good luck, and enjoy a great machine!

Jared Gleason
Gleason Craftworks

View MikeyL70's profile

MikeyL70

5 posts in 120 days


#2 posted 04-04-2018 06:32 AM

Craftsman 6&1/8” Jointer 20650: Thanks, Jared, I located the snap rings as per the manual, and was able to get one of the bearings out. yeah, bearings are still available from Sears, but not much else. Definitely going with new bearings… Removed the two 5/16×7/8” set screws holding the cutter head to the arbor shaft , but that damn arbor shaft won’t budge. I don’t want to take any chances on harming the castings where the bearings seat. i squirted some PB Blaster down those screw holes…Man, this shaft is tight. Can’t see any way to get a wheel puller in there.Thanks for the advice. I was using a hardwood dowel but I think I’ll go the socket route tomorrow. I’ll post some pics when I get far enough along. Thanks again…Got this dinosaur for free, wonder what it’s going to cost me…...:)

View cutmantom's profile

cutmantom

402 posts in 3001 days


#3 posted 04-07-2018 09:36 PM

You should be able to get bearings at any industrial supply that sells bearings, may be cheaper than Sears, just take the old ones with you and they can measure them to get the right size

View MikeyL70's profile

MikeyL70

5 posts in 120 days


#4 posted 04-09-2018 12:36 AM

Thanks; found a pair on ebay fifteen bucks cheaper than Sears…Got them in already…delivered in 2 days.

View MikeyL70's profile

MikeyL70

5 posts in 120 days


#5 posted 04-11-2018 01:50 AM

Finally got the cutterhead out, and the new bearings in. I saw that the inside of the original bearings were rusty as hell. When I got the new bearings and cleaned up cutter head in ,I had side to side play of ten thousandths of an inch. Just some more aggravation…I took a shim from my dado cutter set which already had a hole the same diameter as the cutterhead arbor and cut it to match the diameter of the bearing. Still had to pull everything back out and start all over.,though it was a klittle easier with everything cleaned up

I couldn’t get this piece of cast iron co-planer to save my soul. Found out that the outfeed table had a nice crown right down the middle; and the infeed table had a high spot near the cutterhead then a dish in the middle, and a high spot on the end….soooo; I took the stripped down casting to a place that did precision grinding….Both sides came out flatter than I expected. They lapped the infeed table after grinding it..told them they could just grind both sides the same but I guess they had other ideas..The original top was ground on a blanchard grinder and the cutter must have been pretty worn …Swirl marks were pretty deep.I would think I would get a flatter top this being made in 1973 and all…....Was a lot easier making both tables co-planer with the 4 adjustment screws on the underside. I put it up on two cement blocks to get at them..Pain in the butt. The two followers in the dovetailed ways were loose and I noticed there was no way to lock the nut that held the gib that put tension on it. With the vibration it was going to back out so I put a star washer on the bolt for tension.Something else I got to keep my eye on.. This is one crazy design for a jointer. Still, when I lowered the table it didn’t keep it’s co-planer settings. I checked it with some feeler gages and it was off, so I set it for a 32nd of an inch and re-adjusted the four bolts on the bottom. Guess I’m just going to keep it at that measurement. I set the blades per the manual .003 above the outfeed table…Never set blades like this with a jointer before…they were always even or .001 above…..Test pieces came out pretty true though…did notice a microscopic amount of snipe. Right now it’s close enough for glue-ups. Next time I change the blades I’m going to set them closer to the outfeed table and check it at +.001.. I made a stand out of 2×4’s and 3/4 stock for the corner posts. I cut out a hole in the middle right under the cutterhead for chip extraction to a dust hose. . Kind of a tight fit. Guess I could have made it a little bigger but everything fit as it was. I used a shop-fox mobile base…Just used it for a rectangular stand. Having trouble with the original cord but that’s an easy fix…That seems to be the only problem I have left….I think I’m going to have to keep this crapsman,errr…Craftsman..for awhile…....Enjoy the pics guys…

View gleasoncraftworks's profile

gleasoncraftworks

28 posts in 1201 days


#6 posted 04-13-2018 02:36 PM

Looking real good! I’m surprised to hear about the lateral play. I’m really searching my memory for how that is possible. Oh well.

Good job on the restoration. It’s a nice machine once you iron out the wrinkles.

Thanks for posting!

View MikeyL70's profile

MikeyL70

5 posts in 120 days


#7 posted 04-13-2018 10:22 PM

Thanks for the pat on the back; Yeah, bearings fit pretty good except, I think, one bearings width just might have been ten thousandths thinner than it should have been to fit inside the side with the two large snap rings..I only shimmed this one side and it seems to work a-OK now. I made sure I got sealed bearings for a little longer life. Like you say, I got all the “wrinkles” ironed out, and it’s probably operating better now than it has ever been. With the truly flat tables it is now making some nice flat stock. I noticed that when you square the fence don’t expect your setting to stay that way if you move the fence.

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