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|09-14-2015 06:07 PM||
Danish oil with Arm R Seal incompatibility??? - 3 replies
I am making a table of Spalted maple with a border of Ambrosia maple. I wanted a natural finish so I gave it 3 coats of Watco Danish Oil for a little color. I let it dry for almost 3 weeks (it dried completely and was fine when I prepped it for top coat with 4OOO steel wool) and then began applying a top coat of General Finishes Arm R Se...
|09-13-2015 02:23 PM||
Wipe on stain problem Need help - 4 replies
I am building a baby bed for my first Grandson. It is made from cherry which is very blotchy so I conditioned it with Charles Neil’s pre stain conditioner. I used General Finishes Gel Stain-Candlewood. I followed instructions to put it on wet and even in excess and then wiped it off with the grain. Everything went well except in one promin...
|07-15-2015 06:56 PM||
3 in 1 crib need source of wide cherry - 3 replies
I am planning to build a 3 in 1 crib for my daughters first baby and am using the Wood magazine plans. The cutlist is very efficient IF you can find a source of boards that are 7 1/2” or wider. I visited my normal purveyor of all things wood and I couldn’t come up with enough Cherry or maple that will fit the bill. I need a minimum o...
|07-15-2015 06:42 PM||
Failed mortise & tennon glue joint need opinion - 11 replies
I am building a trestle table and have completed the base. See the pictures attached. The picture shows the base upside down. The tenon glue joints are the joints identified in the picture. These top stretchers have slots that accommodate wood pieces that hold the top to the base. The problem is the glue failed and when I released th...
|05-30-2015 02:26 PM||
Problem with Grizzly 14" Band saw - 9 replies
I’ve got a Grizzly G0555 14” bandsaw that I purchased used. I have never been able to use it much as I can’t seem to get it tuned to cut curves. I’ve cranked up the tension and the blade rides the belt well. But I noticed that the blade does not line up with the support bearing above the table. When I cut straight th...
|05-20-2015 02:27 PM||
Triton MOF001 Router parts source in US? - 8 replies
I have the above plunge router that I purchased at Woodcraft about 3 years ago. They no longer sell Triton tools.The red on off switch has failed and I am trying to buy the TRA054 switch 100v, but the Triton website only leads me to purchasing the switch directly from Triton in Australia. I am trying to find a US source for the switch. I contact...
|05-12-2015 03:35 PM||
Japanese maple tree trunk drying advice - 4 replies
Our beautiful Japanese Maple of 25 years died with the cold winter of 2013/14 here in Michigan. I left it standing last summer in hopes it would come back, but only parts of the tree sprouted so it had to come down. I just sawed it down and plan to make a cocktail table height table and use it as the base of the table. As part of the tree h...
|04-10-2015 04:37 PM||
Japanese hand saws VS American saws - 6 replies
I am lucky to have a Lie Nielsen Dovetail saw which is one of the most beautiful and functional tools I have ever bought. I also have a quality Gyokucho Japanese dovetail saw. The LN has a .013” blade and the Gyokucho has a .010” thick blade. Both cut extremely well but I seem to gravitate to the Japanese saw because it cuts on the ...
|03-22-2015 08:58 PM||
I have been woodworking for 4 years now making mostly cabinets and small tables. Up till now I have been able to get by without a drill press. However, I am going to be making numerous projects using mortises (table breadboards, cribs with lots of slats etc.) and am thinking of getting a mortise machine. Can a mortise machine be used as a drill ...
|02-22-2015 05:08 PM||
Breadboard ends help needed - 31 replies
I am making a table from 7/8” thick spalted maple with a border of 1 3/8” rustic maple. The rustic maple is used to make the top appear thicker. I planned to put breadboard ends on the tabletop, but have an issue. The table is supposed to be 60” long and I planned to have two 6” wide breadboard ends to make ...
|12-16-2014 10:08 PM||
Spalted Maple wood, do I need to stabilize - 4 replies
I hope I didn’t screw upI purchased Spalted Maple wood for a table for my son and his wife’s wedding present. It has many fine line black “spalted” marks and generally feels quite hard. I started glue up today and had no issues, it ripped well and the glue up and clamping went well. It occurred to me from reading some c...
|12-11-2014 05:38 PM||
Making a table top look thicker by laminating - 4 replies
I am going to be building a spalted maple table 42” x 60” with breadboard ends. I want the finished thickness to be 2”, but am having trouble finding quality material in that thickness. I am thinking to use 1” material and on each side laminate a another 1” piece to the top board so the edge is 2” thick. In ...
|12-03-2014 08:16 PM||
Breadboard ends, recommendations needed - 10 replies
I am planning to make a table for my son and his new wife as a wedding present. The top will be 42” wide X 60” long, made with 2” thick stock. They like breadboard ends and I agree the table needs them to look more finished. Unfortunately I have never done them so need recommendations on the method and style of breadboards to m...
|10-31-2014 07:22 PM||
need 1/4" premium domestic wood help - 16 replies
I am in need of 1/4” or 5/16” finished tiger maple, curly cherry, figured walnut and other fancy domestic woods. I am making boxes so the wood needs to be nice. Up to now I have had to purchase 4/4 boards and have them planed down to thickness. I hate to waste a nice 4/4 board and use only 1/4 of the wood in the board. My wood needs...
|09-21-2014 08:39 PM||
Steel City table saw fence help needed - 6 replies
I have a Steel City Hybrid table saw model 35990. The fence from day 1 has been a problem. When you lower the locking lever the fence cams to the right, leaving the fence angled so it is tighter on the outfeed side causing pieces to bind as they go through the saw. See the picture below. It is out of square by 1/8” compared to the table gr...
|07-13-2014 05:57 PM||
Lacquer over Arm-R Seal Oil & Urethane? - 10 replies
I am building a solid cherry side table that will see a lot of abuse; food, beverage spills etc. I planned to use General Finishes Arm-R Seal Oil & Urethane Top Coat to protect the finish. I am concerned the Arm-R Seal will not be up to the task and am thinking of having a few coats of lacquer sprayed over the Arm-R Seal. The table top is s...
|04-04-2014 05:05 PM||
Kitchen doors painted now what? - 6 replies
I just had all of my kitchen doors painted and I am not thrilled with the outcome. The finish on the doors is fine but the joint where the raised panel meets the styles and rails is partially filled with paint. See the pictures. Most of the doors have some form of this paint fillet; from 20 to 50% of the joints. Is this normal when you p...
|03-08-2014 08:51 PM||
Brad nailer recommendations- what to use when - 2 replies
I am remodeling our kitchen and as part of that I am installing 3/8” beadboard around the island and 1/4 round at the joint of the floor and the cabinet toe kick. I am looking at getting a brad nailer to help speed the installation and wondered if there are general guidelines as to what size gage gun to get for various applications as well...
|02-14-2014 01:44 AM||
Power miter saw vs miter box opinions needed - 19 replies
I am in need of a way to cut miters for furniture quality projects. I’ve been doing it on my table saw to limited success. I’ve been thinking of getting a old Stanley 150 or bigger Miterbox but I don’t know if there are capable of the precision I want. What should I look out for when shopping for an old miter box? Or should I j...
|02-04-2014 07:05 PM||
Painting over Merillat cabinet finish - 10 replies
I have a kitchen full of maple Merlilat cabinets with a “oatmeal” finish that is getting very tired looking. It looks like a white pickeled finish. I am planning to paint the cabinets using custom off white Benjamin Moore Impervo Satin Alkyd Low Lustre Paint which is what is used for all the trim in the house. I plan to first c...