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|02-22-2015 05:08 PM||
Breadboard ends help needed - 31 replies
I am making a table from 7/8” thick spalted maple with a border of 1 3/8” rustic maple. The rustic maple is used to make the top appear thicker. I planned to put breadboard ends on the tabletop, but have an issue. The table is supposed to be 60” long and I planned to have two 6” wide breadboard ends to make ...
|12-16-2014 10:08 PM||
Spalted Maple wood, do I need to stabilize - 4 replies
I hope I didn’t screw upI purchased Spalted Maple wood for a table for my son and his wife’s wedding present. It has many fine line black “spalted” marks and generally feels quite hard. I started glue up today and had no issues, it ripped well and the glue up and clamping went well. It occurred to me from reading some c...
|12-11-2014 05:38 PM||
Making a table top look thicker by laminating - 4 replies
I am going to be building a spalted maple table 42” x 60” with breadboard ends. I want the finished thickness to be 2”, but am having trouble finding quality material in that thickness. I am thinking to use 1” material and on each side laminate a another 1” piece to the top board so the edge is 2” thick. In ...
|12-03-2014 08:16 PM||
Breadboard ends, recommendations needed - 10 replies
I am planning to make a table for my son and his new wife as a wedding present. The top will be 42” wide X 60” long, made with 2” thick stock. They like breadboard ends and I agree the table needs them to look more finished. Unfortunately I have never done them so need recommendations on the method and style of breadboards to m...
|10-31-2014 07:22 PM||
need 1/4" premium domestic wood help - 16 replies
I am in need of 1/4” or 5/16” finished tiger maple, curly cherry, figured walnut and other fancy domestic woods. I am making boxes so the wood needs to be nice. Up to now I have had to purchase 4/4 boards and have them planed down to thickness. I hate to waste a nice 4/4 board and use only 1/4 of the wood in the board. My wood needs...
|09-21-2014 08:39 PM||
Steel City table saw fence help needed - 6 replies
I have a Steel City Hybrid table saw model 35990. The fence from day 1 has been a problem. When you lower the locking lever the fence cams to the right, leaving the fence angled so it is tighter on the outfeed side causing pieces to bind as they go through the saw. See the picture below. It is out of square by 1/8” compared to the table gr...
|07-13-2014 05:57 PM||
Lacquer over Arm-R Seal Oil & Urethane? - 10 replies
I am building a solid cherry side table that will see a lot of abuse; food, beverage spills etc. I planned to use General Finishes Arm-R Seal Oil & Urethane Top Coat to protect the finish. I am concerned the Arm-R Seal will not be up to the task and am thinking of having a few coats of lacquer sprayed over the Arm-R Seal. The table top is s...
|04-04-2014 05:05 PM||
Kitchen doors painted now what? - 6 replies
I just had all of my kitchen doors painted and I am not thrilled with the outcome. The finish on the doors is fine but the joint where the raised panel meets the styles and rails is partially filled with paint. See the pictures. Most of the doors have some form of this paint fillet; from 20 to 50% of the joints. Is this normal when you p...
|03-08-2014 08:51 PM||
Brad nailer recommendations- what to use when - 2 replies
I am remodeling our kitchen and as part of that I am installing 3/8” beadboard around the island and 1/4 round at the joint of the floor and the cabinet toe kick. I am looking at getting a brad nailer to help speed the installation and wondered if there are general guidelines as to what size gage gun to get for various applications as well...
|02-14-2014 01:44 AM||
Power miter saw vs miter box opinions needed - 19 replies
I am in need of a way to cut miters for furniture quality projects. I’ve been doing it on my table saw to limited success. I’ve been thinking of getting a old Stanley 150 or bigger Miterbox but I don’t know if there are capable of the precision I want. What should I look out for when shopping for an old miter box? Or should I j...
|02-04-2014 07:05 PM||
Painting over Merillat cabinet finish - 10 replies
I have a kitchen full of maple Merlilat cabinets with a “oatmeal” finish that is getting very tired looking. It looks like a white pickeled finish. I am planning to paint the cabinets using custom off white Benjamin Moore Impervo Satin Alkyd Low Lustre Paint which is what is used for all the trim in the house. I plan to first c...
|01-22-2014 08:11 PM||
Mitered bracket feet with splines - 8 replies
I am making a set of 4 mitered bracket feet that will be splined at the miter. I have made the groove in the miter faces but have a couple of simple questions:1. what material should the splines be made from. The feet are cherry.2. I am struggling to make the splines the correct thickness. Every time I rip a board to what I think is the right...
|04-07-2013 05:11 PM||
Need advice repairing old drawer - 7 replies
A friend of mine has a nice reproduction colonial style writing desk Windsor chair. Under the writing surface is a 8” x 12” x 2” deep drawer. The drawer slided on 2 wood rails. The drawer has 2 simple grooves for the rail to slide in. See picture. As you can see the drawer is broken at the front of one rail. I am not talented ...
|03-14-2013 04:50 PM||
Wood glue up help needed - 7 replies
I am making a solid cherry side table from 3/4” cherry boards. I already made up the panels by butt gluing multiple pieces together. I planned to run the boards vertically so the bottom and two sides would expand and contract at the same rates. The back obviously would run vertically too but when it is attached to the base the backs e...
|03-04-2013 07:52 PM||
Awhile ago I posted a question on how to sharpen a set of abused chisels that I enherited. I chose to go the scary sharp method and use sandpaper with a Veritas MK II honing guide. After quite a workout, I am nearing the end and have reclaimed these old war horses from the scrap heap. Now I’d like to get some new wood handles for the...
|12-31-2012 05:05 PM||
Assorted chisles butchered need help - 10 replies
I have accumulated or inherited a dozen or so chisels which have been butchered by someone who hand sharpenied them on a grinding wheel. I’d like to salvage them but need a good way to put them back to usefulness. I bought a Woodcraft chisel honing guide and tried to fix them using rough grit stone, but it will take me a year to hone all t...
|10-04-2012 07:38 PM||
Cherry crotch table top need source. - 6 replies
I am getting ready to buy marterial for my next project; a cherry side table with drawer. I would like to find a nice 4/4 or 5/4 cherry crotch that can be bookmatched to a width of about 22”. It needs to be about 28” long. I’ve looked all over ebay and done searches on this site and don’t find anyone selling cherry crot...
|09-30-2012 04:13 PM||
I am nearing completion (finally) of my TV console and need your assistance. The base is 3/4” cherry plywood. The solid cherry top is also 3/4”. I am concerned that the top will split if I screw it directly to the plywood base. There is a face frame on the front to hold doors on the right and left compartments. The center wi...
|08-23-2012 07:05 PM||
installing Flush mount cabinet doors - 15 replies
I have chosen to put flush mount doors on my cherry TV cabinet. I plan to use a somewhat traditional looking full wrap hinge from Woodcraft (http://www.woodcraft.com/product/2000987/2595/amerock-nickel-minaret-tip-cabinet-hinge-full-wrap.aspx). I am looking for instructions as to how to fit the doors to the faceframe and how to install the hi...
|07-18-2012 03:56 PM||
I am building a cherry TV cabinet and need to purchase 2 solid cherry doors. I was told that I should stain the doors before assembly as shrinkage can cause the unstained panel to show when the frame shrinks. I contacted one company who told me he would not sell unassembled panel doors as he couldn’t guarantee that I could assemble them du...