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38 days ago

Lacquer over Arm-R Seal Oil & Urethane? - 10 replies

I am building a solid cherry side table that will see a lot of abuse; food, beverage spills etc. I planned to use General Finishes Arm-R Seal Oil & Urethane Top Coat to protect the finish. I am concerned the Arm-R Seal will not be up to the task and am thinking of having a few coats of lacquer sprayed over the Arm-R Seal. The table top is s...

138 days ago

Kitchen doors painted now what? - 6 replies

I just had all of my kitchen doors painted and I am not thrilled with the outcome. The finish on the doors is fine but the joint where the raised panel meets the styles and rails is partially filled with paint. See the pictures. Most of the doors have some form of this paint fillet; from 20 to 50% of the joints. Is this normal when you p...

165 days ago

Brad nailer recommendations- what to use when - 2 replies

I am remodeling our kitchen and as part of that I am installing 3/8” beadboard around the island and 1/4 round at the joint of the floor and the cabinet toe kick. I am looking at getting a brad nailer to help speed the installation and wondered if there are general guidelines as to what size gage gun to get for various applications as well...

188 days ago

Power miter saw vs miter box opinions needed - 19 replies

I am in need of a way to cut miters for furniture quality projects. I’ve been doing it on my table saw to limited success. I’ve been thinking of getting a old Stanley 150 or bigger Miterbox but I don’t know if there are capable of the precision I want. What should I look out for when shopping for an old miter box? Or should I j...

197 days ago

Painting over Merillat cabinet finish - 10 replies

I have a kitchen full of maple Merlilat cabinets with a “oatmeal” finish that is getting very tired looking. It looks like a white pickeled finish. I am planning to paint the cabinets using custom off white Benjamin Moore Impervo Satin Alkyd Low Lustre Paint which is what is used for all the trim in the house. I plan to first c...

210 days ago

Mitered bracket feet with splines - 8 replies

I am making a set of 4 mitered bracket feet that will be splined at the miter. I have made the groove in the miter faces but have a couple of simple questions:1. what material should the splines be made from. The feet are cherry.2. I am struggling to make the splines the correct thickness. Every time I rip a board to what I think is the right...

500 days ago

Need advice repairing old drawer - 7 replies

A friend of mine has a nice reproduction colonial style writing desk Windsor chair. Under the writing surface is a 8” x 12” x 2” deep drawer. The drawer slided on 2 wood rails. The drawer has 2 simple grooves for the rail to slide in. See picture. As you can see the drawer is broken at the front of one rail. I am not talented ...

524 days ago

Wood glue up help needed - 7 replies

I am making a solid cherry side table from 3/4” cherry boards. I already made up the panels by butt gluing multiple pieces together. I planned to run the boards vertically so the bottom and two sides would expand and contract at the same rates. The back obviously would run vertically too but when it is attached to the base the backs e...

534 days ago

Reconditioned chisels, need suggestions for new handles - 8 replies

Awhile ago I posted a question on how to sharpen a set of abused chisels that I enherited. I chose to go the scary sharp method and use sandpaper with a Veritas MK II honing guide. After quite a workout, I am nearing the end and have reclaimed these old war horses from the scrap heap. Now I’d like to get some new wood handles for the...

597 days ago

Assorted chisles butchered need help - 10 replies

I have accumulated or inherited a dozen or so chisels which have been butchered by someone who hand sharpenied them on a grinding wheel. I’d like to salvage them but need a good way to put them back to usefulness. I bought a Woodcraft chisel honing guide and tried to fix them using rough grit stone, but it will take me a year to hone all t...

685 days ago

Cherry crotch table top need source. - 6 replies

I am getting ready to buy marterial for my next project; a cherry side table with drawer. I would like to find a nice 4/4 or 5/4 cherry crotch that can be bookmatched to a width of about 22”. It needs to be about 28” long. I’ve looked all over ebay and done searches on this site and don’t find anyone selling cherry crot...

689 days ago

Attaching solid cherry top to plywood case, help needed - 11 replies

I am nearing completion (finally) of my TV console and need your assistance. The base is 3/4” cherry plywood. The solid cherry top is also 3/4”. I am concerned that the top will split if I screw it directly to the plywood base. There is a face frame on the front to hold doors on the right and left compartments. The center wi...

727 days ago

installing Flush mount cabinet doors - 15 replies

I have chosen to put flush mount doors on my cherry TV cabinet. I plan to use a somewhat traditional looking full wrap hinge from Woodcraft ( I am looking for instructions as to how to fit the doors to the faceframe and how to install the hi...

763 days ago

Cabinet door source needed (and your opinions too) - 4 replies

I am building a cherry TV cabinet and need to purchase 2 solid cherry doors. I was told that I should stain the doors before assembly as shrinkage can cause the unstained panel to show when the frame shrinks. I contacted one company who told me he would not sell unassembled panel doors as he couldn’t guarantee that I could assemble them du...

796 days ago

Water based urethane, how many coats to get a great finish??? - 7 replies

My cherry TV cabinet staining came out well. I have put 5 coats of General Finishes High Performance Polyurethane on it and it looks great. How many coats should I put on for the best protection, without becoming visible (as in plactic looking).Thanks,John

803 days ago

Glue up- Big mistake need help! - 22 replies

After weeks of work on my project to build my cherry TV cabinet I stained and top coated the cherry ply box components. I taped off the dados and applied 2 coats of Charles Neil’s pre stain conditioner, followed by 1 coat of Trandtint yellow die, then 2 coats of General Finishes water based dye stain (antique cherry) and then 4 coa...

824 days ago

Cedar planks for grilling - 4 replies

Maybe this has been asked, but I couldn’t find anything on the subject. Lowes and others sell a package of cedar planks that you use to grill fish on. You soak the cedar and then put on the grill for 5 minutes to get the wood hot. Put your salmon or whatever on the plank and cook. The wood smokes and gives the fish a nice smokey flavor. Un...

827 days ago

Curly Cherry or not - 5 replies

I am building a cherry TV Console which I plan to put a solid cherry top on. The picture attached is of the 3 boards that I was planning to use. As I am a rookie, I need some advise. You will notice the board closest to the camera has curls like you see in tiger maple. When this is die stained, will the curl blotch and ruin the top. you not...

829 days ago

TV Console, should I stain before assembly - 12 replies

I am making a TV Concole 60”w x 27”h x 23” d. The box is 3/4” cherry plywood and I’ll be adding a cherry face frame and solid curly cherry top. I am planning to use Charles Neil’s Precolor conditioner and blotch control as the plywood is paticularly prone to blotching. I will stain with General Finish water b...

832 days ago

New definition of woodworker= Vacuum operator - 17 replies

I’ve had my shop set up in my basement for about 6 months. It is separated from the rest of the basement by 5 mil plastic sheet from floor to ceiling, so the dust is contained. I have a Steel City contractors saw with a vacuum attachment on the bottom. That catches a lot of dust but a lot still excapes out of the top. I use a thin kurf ...

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