What To Do With This Board? #5: Groov'n!

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Blog entry by Mean_Dean posted 05-14-2015 10:29 PM 763 reads 0 times favorited 4 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 4: Cutting the Miters Part 5 of What To Do With This Board? series Part 6: Silly Rabbet! »

Hey Guys!

Today I cut the grooves in the box sides for the top and the bottom. I debated whether to cut the grooves at the router table with a 1/4” straight bit, or on the tablesaw with a full kerf rip blade. I decided it would be quicker and easier to cut them on the tablesaw.

Here are the box sides from yesterday:

I used a Freud full-kerf FTG rip blade to cut the grooves. The FTG feature gives the grooves a nice flat bottom, instead of the sawtooth pattern of my combination blade.

A technician at SawStop told me that Freud blades are slightly smaller in diameter than 10”, so whenever I use this blade, I need to adjust the blade brake, and remove the riving knife. The riving knife is just a hair taller than the Freud, so it needs to be removed to cut grooves. This operation is safe because the workpiece is not cut in two.

The grooves need to be 1/4” deep. Awhile back, I learned another technique for the Wixey angle gauge. For 1/4” grooves, take a 1/4” drill bit and lay it a few inches from the blade, and parallel to it. Next take a straightedge and lay it across the drill bit and the sawblade. Zero out the Wixey, on the saw’s tabletop, then place it on the straight edge. Raise or lower the blade until the Wixey reads “0.0”, and your blade is precisely 1/4” high.

Cut the grooves on the tops and bottoms of the box sides, except the top of the right side. The right side will be 1/2” narrower to accommodate the sliding lid, so it gets a groove only at the bottom. So, I cut all the grooves, slid the fence over 1/8” inch, and cut them to final width.

Tomorrow is milling to size the top and bottom of the box, and cutting the rabbets on their edges to fit into the grooves.

See ya then!

-- Dean

4 comments so far

View kaerlighedsbamsen's profile


1177 posts in 1178 days

#1 posted 05-15-2015 10:41 AM

Looking good! Thanks for sharing this blog

-- "Do or Do not. There is no try." - Yoda

View BobAnderton's profile


219 posts in 2255 days

#2 posted 05-15-2015 11:55 AM

I’d like to offer food for thought on your blade height measurement method. If one were to use a caliper to measure be blade height directly they could reasonably expect to be correct to within a thousandth or two. Using the method illustrated above I calculate that with the drill bit 4 inches from the blade you have to raise the saw blade .0698” for every 0.1 degree change in the Wixey angle gauge, that reads to the 0.1 degree. Sine (0.1 degrees) x 4 = .0698. The further the drill bit is away from the blade the poorer the measurement capability of this method. Don’t mean to be a negative nellie. Just thought you presented an interesting topic to discuss. It was a clever approach no matter how the math worked out. Ditto on thanks for sharing this blog.

-- Bob Anderton - Austin, TX - Nova 3000 lathe, Alaskan Mark III mill, Husqavarna Saw

View BobAnderton's profile


219 posts in 2255 days

#3 posted 05-15-2015 02:57 PM

Well, heck. Make that .0698” per degree. For every 0.1 degree it would be 6.98 thousandths. Still not as good as one can do measuring the height directly with a caliper, but a lot closer to being in the same neighborhood, huh?

-- Bob Anderton - Austin, TX - Nova 3000 lathe, Alaskan Mark III mill, Husqavarna Saw

View Mean_Dean's profile


5052 posts in 2612 days

#4 posted 05-15-2015 03:39 PM

Bob, thanks for the discussion—that’s the whole point of this blog!

And hey, if I’m within 7 thousandths of an inch for a 1/4” groove, using a quick and easy method—I’m not going to lose any sleep over it!

By the way, I thought you guys might like that method!

-- Dean

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