Today I cut the grooves in the box sides for the top and the bottom. I debated whether to cut the grooves at the router table with a 1/4” straight bit, or on the tablesaw with a full kerf rip blade. I decided it would be quicker and easier to cut them on the tablesaw.
Here are the box sides from yesterday:
I used a Freud full-kerf FTG rip blade to cut the grooves. The FTG feature gives the grooves a nice flat bottom, instead of the sawtooth pattern of my combination blade.
A technician at SawStop told me that Freud blades are slightly smaller in diameter than 10”, so whenever I use this blade, I need to adjust the blade brake, and remove the riving knife. The riving knife is just a hair taller than the Freud, so it needs to be removed to cut grooves. This operation is safe because the workpiece is not cut in two.
The grooves need to be 1/4” deep. Awhile back, I learned another technique for the Wixey angle gauge. For 1/4” grooves, take a 1/4” drill bit and lay it a few inches from the blade, and parallel to it. Next take a straightedge and lay it across the drill bit and the sawblade. Zero out the Wixey, on the saw’s tabletop, then place it on the straight edge. Raise or lower the blade until the Wixey reads “0.0”, and your blade is precisely 1/4” high.
Cut the grooves on the tops and bottoms of the box sides, except the top of the right side. The right side will be 1/2” narrower to accommodate the sliding lid, so it gets a groove only at the bottom. So, I cut all the grooves, slid the fence over 1/8” inch, and cut them to final width.
Tomorrow is milling to size the top and bottom of the box, and cutting the rabbets on their edges to fit into the grooves.
See ya then!
-- Dean -- "Don't give up the ship -- fight her 'till she sinks!" Capt James Lawrence USN