Taking Back What I Said
Mark Mueller disagrees with my statement (in Part 8, Conclusions for Phase I) that “re-zeroing the fence will be required any time the positioner base unit is moved.” He points out that the fixed stops (against which the base is positioned) make re-zeroing unnecessary, and he may well be right (he should know). I will revisit this subject later, after doing some experiments to learn the truth.
I want to make a new extension table measuring (with trim) 29” x 36”. This extension table will be two layers of 3/4” MDF, in order to make a router base that will maybe stay flat. I envision cutting two pieces of MDF a bit larger than I need, gluing them together, then trimming them to exact size.
But how can I get very exact 90 degree angles, and exact sizes? The obvious answer is to use my table saw with the new fence… except that the standard setup yields a cutting capacity of 32” to the right of the blade, and I need 36. The instructions say that the standard setup give 14”-0” range on the left of the blade, and 0”-32” on the right.
So I have moved the rails 8 inches to the right, in hopes that this will modify the capacities to 6 – 0”, and 0-32” plus 8-40”. (The carriage arm does not give a 40” range, so wider cuts require moving the base.)
I plan to experiment with this setting for awhile, to see if I could be happy with that as my standard set up. I imagine I will, as I almost never make cuts to the left of the blade with a rip fence.
Since I have to live with having two ranges, it would be good to have stops set to quickly move between the two ranges.
A Problem I Haven’t Been Able To Solve
In setting up the 8-40” range, I cannot figure out how to precisely zero the fence. The fence won’t reach the blade. I could cut a strip of a specific width, then measure, and turn the micro-adjust the same number of clicks of the error in mils. But I don’t have a precise tool that can tell me how close it is in mils (thousandths of an inch), because my calipers only go to 6 inches.The closest solution I’ve thought of:
- set the 0-32” range precisely using the standard methods described in the manual
- cut a strip of wood to 8”. This should be correct +/- 2 mils.
- move the base unit 8 inches to the right.
- place the 8” strip against the blade
- move the fence against the 8” strip
- set this to zero
This solution should give me accuracy of 1/64 to 1/32”. I’d like to do better. Any thoughts?
-- Mark, hack amateur woodworker, Medford (greater Boston) MA