Revonoc 28" Restoration

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Blog entry by Mambrax posted 06-07-2015 07:51 PM 895 reads 0 times favorited 3 comments Add to Favorites Watch

Over view of a Revonoc 28” Restoration.

Got it a rummage sale for $20. probably paid to much, but i never saw a other one like that before.
So step 1 : removing all part. Be-ward of dead bugs !!!

As seen it was in rough shape. Most all those get wrap all possible way, which make them unusable. It’s very important to square them out before any think. Now a plane that size is almost impossible to sand for the normal man like me. The only way is that I personally can use to square it is the joiner. Now for smaller planer it’s possible to sand them, but at 28” long, to the joiner we go.

Ok at point fear not ! You can do it, you’re the man. (Stuff i tell myself)

I set the cut depth at about nothing. Less is more. Last thins you want is for that piece to fly out, kick back or worth exploded. Arround 7 passes between the photos. The result around the mouth is really good i think.

Repeat for the side. Important is to keep the number of passes close for left to right so the plane don ot become off centered too much. Same take your time and breathe.

Now for the top. I did found out that it was badly wrapped as well. So joiner treatment. This is scary as hell, greanted but if the plane is solide and you run it through with th e grain of the wood, it should be fine. It important to flatten the top as well, because if it’s not done the steel will end up wrapping the soul again in no time.

Ok so the total time for those operation was about 40 minutes. Not bad for the result. I’m sure their is other way to do, but that the only one i feel will give a good to excellent result to a average ww.

Next step : gluing a new soul. I used hard maple. Joined, planed used Gorilla glue to bound.
Don’t be cheap with the clamp !!!! :-))))

For some raison 2 clamp left a oily mark on the body. Further investigation underway.
Once done, join the sides. I did by hand with some previously restored tools. Pretty cool !

Check for square and flat all the time. Super important.

The next step is to thin the new soul to about 3/16” or so. Then re-open the mouth with chisel. Takes a long time for two reasons : my chisels suck, and you need to be super duper i cannot stress enough careful doing that. This crucial. Make sure the area worked on with the chisel is FULLY supporter with a under backing of wood. If not it will explode and dislocate from the body.

Most likely some more jointing will be need at that point to make sure the iron clear the mouth. That particular iron is 2 7/8” wide and about .180” think so it took a little bit of testing. My approach is : better be tight that loose.
On that done, well stain and oil it ! That easy and you can see the hard work pay off !!!

For the metal side. I used Evaporust to clean the hardware and some scrubbing. I think it’s important that the plane still show it age and pay homage to his past. I do not try to make it look like new.

The crap/hell part was the blade. As noted before it’s huge and i think was last sharpened by a angry beaver with Parkinson disease. The point it was slanted by about 1/16” and the back was rounded on a grinder. Really the toughest sharpening ever for me. I used DMT diamond coarse and 80 grid sand paper belt to muscle it back to shape. Not fun at all. But that what it looked once done.

And put it back together ! Here we go and test !

For sure i could buy new tools, but why ? When at the end of the day a other, modest but real and alive, piece of craftsmanship history ready fro the next generation. It’s important to keep those item alive and usable to be used and enjoy.
Cheers !!!

-- Let's do the best we can !

3 comments so far

View Don W's profile

Don W

17875 posts in 1987 days

#1 posted 06-07-2015 10:53 PM

Good for another 100 years!

-- Master hand plane hoarder. -

View Combo Prof's profile

Combo Prof

2242 posts in 697 days

#2 posted 07-02-2015 05:33 PM

Working on my first transitional plane restore. Here is the end markings.

What finish should I apply to make the end marks really pop into view?

Oddly enough the bottom was flat and orthogonal to the sides. The top however was not parallel to the bottom
so I shaved off a little from the top with the plane. I hoping not enough to require new screw holes.

-- Don K, (Houghton, Michigan)

View Mambrax's profile (online now)


138 posts in 911 days

#3 posted 07-02-2015 05:46 PM

i think any oil finish should do it.
Glad that your restoration started on the right foot !

-- Let's do the best we can !

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