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Modifying the Kreg Pocket Hole Jig #3: Final Assembly

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Blog entry by MT_Stringer posted 280 days ago 1864 reads 1 time favorited 5 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 2: Designing the new jig Part 3 of Modifying the Kreg Pocket Hole Jig series no next part

Time to get this project wrapped up.
I covered the plywood deck with white Formica as well as the material supports and the rear support for the cylinder. After trimming the laminate flush with the plywood, I used a chamfer bit to bevel the edges slightly.

Now for the nitty gritty.

Here is a close up of the cylinder mounted on the jig. The original four 10-24×1 inch machine screws secure the front of the plate. Two 1/4 -20×1 inch round knobs attach the rear of the plate to the sled. If necessary, I can remove the cylinder as a unit.

IT’S ALIVE!!!

Piston retracted.

Piston extended.

Foot operated switch with muffler.

Overview

I have my parts box fastened to the sled near the edge so I can loosen the latches. They secure the lid really well.

The black piece is the Kreg Micro jig.

And now for the good part. If something breaks, I can simply remove the four screws and the two 1/4 inch round knobs, remove the air cylinder unit and replace it with the original clamp!!! :-) A special thank you goes out to Crank49 for making that suggestion.

But wait, there is more!

If I need to drill pocket holes in 2x lumber, I will have to reposition the air cylinder. To do that, I simply remove the four 10-24 machine screws which will free up the sled. Then I will need to remove the four wood screws on the bottom side of the sled which keep the rear cylinder support in place. After determining the position for the cylinder, put the screws back in the aluminum plate, and drill new screw holes on the underside of the sled so the rear support will stay put. No need to remove the two 1/4 – 20 round knobs.

I drilled a few holes and the jig is working great. I had the air compressor set at 80 psi. I think I can easily reduce it to 60 psi.

The only thing left is to get a filter for the air line. The specs call for a 40 micron filter. HF has one that should work just fine.

I hope you enjoyed reading about this build as much as I did building it. My cabinet making should go a lot smoother next go round.
Mike

-- Handcrafted by Mike Henderson - Channelview, Texas



5 comments so far

View darthford's profile

darthford

532 posts in 549 days


#1 posted 280 days ago

Oh man metal working and shiny cylinders and foot switches, very nice! On a larger scale I’d like to build an air clamp jig for gluing up dovetail tube amp head cabinets.

View Handtooler's profile

Handtooler

1071 posts in 757 days


#2 posted 280 days ago

MT, Ya gotta patent those ideas and fabrication soon or Kreg will certainly steal them and market the Kit for several hundred dollars. Very nicely constructed!

-- Russell Pitner Hixson, TN 37343 bassboy40@msn.com

View sras's profile

sras

3813 posts in 1754 days


#3 posted 279 days ago

Nice project! Looks like you are set up for mass production.

-- Steve - Impatience is Expensive

View MT_Stringer's profile

MT_Stringer

1831 posts in 1856 days


#4 posted 272 days ago

And now for an update. I finally got a chance to drill some pocket holes in both 3/4 inch material and 1 1/2 inch 2×4 material. What I learned is that I can simply screw the rubber foot into the coupling about 1/2 inch and then lock it down. The piston will extend as far as it can and then stop and hold pressure against the 2x work piece without damaging it. That made the work go smoothly and quick. I am loving the foot switch.

I routed the air line through a 40 micron filter, which I have mounted to one leg of my work bench.

-- Handcrafted by Mike Henderson - Channelview, Texas

View MT_Stringer's profile

MT_Stringer

1831 posts in 1856 days


#5 posted 251 days ago

And…it can also be used as a pean cracker! :-)

Here is a short video demonstrating the pecan cracker in action.

-- Handcrafted by Mike Henderson - Channelview, Texas

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