To keep things seperated nicely, this post will start into the assembly process.
I (William) have started assembly of certain sub-assemblies. The assembly of the entire thing cannot begin in earnest until KTMM gets back to Vicksburg to do some of his magic on the frame. Some of the sub-assemblies though that are already to a finished state, I’m taking the liberty of going ahead with some of them.
I ended my last post with the for trunnion assemblies already partially done.
To assemble these on the trunnion support beams, the plans give you an accurate 1:1 scale drawing of both pieces with holes clearly marked for the placement of the dowels. I just laid the patterns on the end of the pieces and puched the center of each hole (clearly marked with an X) with a center punch. I then set up the drill press for each piece and drill 3/8” holes for dowels.
Everything lined up good enough, maybe too good. I dry fitted everything first and caught hell getting them back apart for gluing.
Then I reassembled the trunniun assemblies and checked to make sure everything was right by turning them upside down on a flat surface, my table saw top.
The photo shows both complete trunnion assemblies, ready for tables and to be bolted to the frames.
The bottom wheelblocks had to have a one inch hole ran through them. Being as they are four inches wide, my forstner bit would not go all the way through them. So I used the drill bit extenstion you see laid across the two blocks with a quarter inch drill bit. I drilled as far as I could go with my forstner bit. Then I drill through the center of that hole all the way through. Then it was turned over so I could use the quarter inch hole for a reference, and drill the rest of the material out from the other side.
I don’t know where to get these drill bit extenstions now. I haven’t seen one in years. This one is a left over from my mechanic days. If they still make them, I’m sure they have them at hardware stores. I’m going to look next time I go. If not, I know I’ve seen extended length bits recently that would do the same job.
The top wheelblocks had to be drilled for a one inch hole using the same procedure.
I still have to do some more drilling on the top wheelblock before they are ready for the frames. This was where I left off today though.
I will post updates of the assembly here.
I will go back and post any other parts that have to be made in the parts department post.
AND THE SAGA CONTINUES
Well I still didn’t feel up to snuff today. It was either sit here and cry or go push on though, so pushing I did.
I decided to work on the upper wheelblock and frame assembly, getting the tensioner and tracking mechanisms done.
The first problem I had was that I went through the bolts KTMM brought. It took me a little bit to figure out why I couldn’t find the bolt I needed. The tracking mechanism calls for a 3/8×2” hex head bolt. The only bolts we had that size are carriage bolts. I could do a little redesigning and use the carriage bolt, but the way it’s designed, I was worried about the head having enough bite for the knob.
Since I needed to make a cigarette run anyway, I decided to stop by the hardware store close to my house and pick up some hex head bolts. The shortest the store had was 2 1/2”. Since I don’t think it will hurt to have an extra half inch on the tracking, and I didn’t feel up to running all the way down into town to the big orange store, I am using the 2 1/2”
In this photo you can see how the bolt goes through the wheel block. There is a countersunk T-nut on the other side.
If you look at the other frame (for the second top secret project) you will notice a metal tab on the frame that is hidden from view on the one standing up with the wheelblock in it. You can use pretty much any flat piece of metal here. It is just to keep the tracking bolt from wearing on the wooden frame. These tabs I saved when I tore the cabinet out when I put in my wife’s stove. I knew I saved them for something.
And in this photo you can see how the tension bolt threads through the top.
Also note the two screws at the bottom of the wheelblock. These don’t have any purpose except to hold the wheelblock in so it doesn’t fall out when there is no tension on it.
On the knobs for the tracking, a hole needed to be chiseled out to fit the bolt head tightly and then the bolt pressed in. This was supposed to be done by my go-to hand tool buddy, KTMM.
Then I thought, I did recently find those Marples chisels on sale. Why not sharped one of those suckers up and give it a shot? What’s the worst that can happen?
KTMM and SuperD should be proud of me. My butchering worked and this is one less thing that KTMM has to worry about on his time limited trips to Vicksburg.
I do have to admit that the photo shows my third attempt at these. They’re made out of sycamore. The first two tries, of red oak, split before I could get deep enough for the entire bolt head to go in tight.
And here is one of the wheelblock assemblies ready to go into the frame.
Here’s one handle each for the tensioner.
The have a hole cut for the nut to fit into. I cut this on my scroll saw. Then it is slotted and a screw into from the side to clamp the wood down on the nut tightly.
The handle, according to the plans are supposed to be 2.5 cm. I cut that and didn’t like it. It was too small. So I recut them to 5cm.
Here’s the front and back of the whole assembly in the frame.
I didn’t take photo, but it is simply three thin strips of oak that acts as a spring, a block to keep stress off the holes in the spring strips, a washer, and then the handle screwed onto the top of the tensioner bolt.
Everything seems to work well right now. It will have to be fine tuned after KTMM cleans up the frame.
Next it was back to the trunnion assemblies.
The trunnions had to come off the trunnion assembly to be screwed to the subtable. This subtable helps keep everything flat. The actual table will be placed on top of this. I am still thinking about what I am going to use for my table. I will probably let KTMM do his own table to his liking.
None of this gets glued until the end of the project after everything is done and trued up.
And it all gets re-assembled with the trunnion cradles and support.
I admit I was worried about these. It was for nothing though. It all works beautifully.
I done a dry fit of what we have made yesterday. I thought ya’ll’d like to see some photos.
I also drop tested this whole assembly.
Last night, KTMM came to the shop to prep some material for his work bench. While he was on the table saw, I started gathering all of his clamps up to send back East with him. I took the two clamps holding this one to the table off, as I’d done every time I moved it while I’ve been sanding on it. I did not account for all the extra forward weight the wheels and table added though. It hit the ground with loud enough thud that it startled KTMM. He came running over to help me with the whole thing that was then in the floor with my holding it as best I could. I am happy to report that from this height, the fall did not hurt it. The only damage I found was one corner of the upright pieces on the top was dinged. It quickly sanded out straight and you can’t eve find evidence of my (planned as you know it was) drop test.
Today, I finished sanding this frame. The tensioner bars that hold the entire tensioner and wheel block assembly in up top is now screwed on with no clamps holding it. The bottome wheel block is bolted in place as well.
I started sanding on the other frame. If ll goes well, I hope to have it to the same point as this one some time tomorrow and then I can get back to truing wheels.