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    <title>Liam's Blog at LumberJocks.com</title>
    <link>http://lumberjocks.com/Liam/blog</link>
    <pubDate>Mon, 03 Dec 2007 01:22:27 GMT</pubDate>
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      <title>Laymans description of the most common tools</title>
      <link>http://lumberjocks.com/Liam/blog/2664</link>
      <description>
        <![CDATA[<p>*copied from the web</p>


	<p>Explanation of Common Tools:</p>


	<p>DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat<br />metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and<br />flings your beer across the room, splattering it against that<br />freshly-stained heirloom piece you were drying.</p>


	<p>WIRE WHEEL: Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under<br />the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprints and<br />hard-earned guitar calluses from fingers in about the time it takes you<br />to say, &#8220;YEOWW CRAPP&#8230;.&#8221;</p>


	<p>ELECTRIC HAND DRILL: Normally used for spinning pop rivets in their holes<br />until you die of old age.</p>


	<p>SKIL SAW: A portable cutting tool used to make studs too short.</p>


	<p>PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of<br />blood-blisters.</p>


	<p>BELT SANDER: An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor<br />touch-up jobs into major refinishing jobs.</p>


	<p>HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board<br />principle. It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable<br />motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal<br />your future becomes.</p>


	<p>VISE-GRIPS: Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt<br />heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer<br />intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.</p>


	<p>WELDING GLOVES: Heavy duty leather gloves used to prolong the conduction<br />of intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.</p>


	<p>OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable<br />objects in your shop on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside<br />the wheel hub you want the bearing race out of.</p>


	<p>WHITWORTH SOCKETS: Once used for working on older British cars and<br />motorcycles, they are now used mainly for impersonating that 9/16 or 1/2<br />inch socket you&#8217;ve been searching for the last 45 minutes.</p>


	<p>TABLE SAW: A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood<br />projectiles for testing wall integrity.</p>


	<p>HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering an automobile to the ground after<br />you have installed your new brake shoes, trapping the jack handle firmly<br />under the bumper.</p>


	<p>EIGHT-FOOT LONG YELLOW PINE 2X4: Used for levering an automobile upward<br />off of a trapped hydraulic jack handle.</p>


	<p>TWEEZERS: A tool for removing wood splinters and wire wheel wires.</p>


	<p>E-Z OUT BOLT AND STUD EXTRACTOR: A tool ten times harder than any known<br />drill bit that snaps neatly off in bolt holes thereby ending any possible<br />future use.</p>


	<p>RADIAL ARM SAW: A large stationary power saw primarily used by most shops<br />to scare neophytes into choosing another line of work.</p>


	<p>TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST: A tool for testing the maximum tensile strength of<br />everything you forgot to disconnect.</p>


	<p>CRAFTSMAN 1/2&#215;24-INCH SCREWDRIVER: A very large pry bar that<br />inexplicably has an accurately machined screwdriver tip on the end<br />opposite the handle.</p>


	<p>AVIATION METAL SNIPS: See hacksaw.</p>


	<p>TROUBLE LIGHT: The home mechanic&#8217;s own tanning booth. Sometimes called a<br />drop light, it is a good source of vitamin D, &#8220;the sunshine vitamin,&#8221; <br />which is not otherwise found under cars at night. Health benefits<br />aside, its main purpose is to consume 40-watt light bulbs at about<br />the same rate that 105mm howitzer shells might be used during, say,<br />the first few hours of the Battle of the Bulge. More often dark<br />than light, its name is somewhat misleading.</p>


	<p>PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under lids<br />and for opening old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil on<br />your shirt; but can also be used, as the name implies, to strip out<br />Phillips screw heads.</p>


	<p>STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER: A tool for opening paint cans. Sometimes used to<br />convert common slotted screws into non-removable screws.</p>


	<p>AIR COMPRESSOR: A machine that takes energy produced in a coal-burning<br />power plant 200 miles away and transforms it into compressed air that<br />travels by hose to a Chicago Pneumatic impact wrench that grips rusty<br />bolts which were last over tightened 30 years ago by someone at Ford, and<br />instantly rounds off their heads. Also used to quickly snap off lug nuts.</p>


	<p>PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or<br />bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part.</p>


	<p>HOSE CUTTER: A tool used to make hoses too short.</p>


	<p>HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is<br />used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts<br />adjacent to the object we are trying to hit. Home owners primarily use it<br />to make gaping holes in walls when hanging pictures.</p>


	<p>MECHANIC&#8217;S KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of<br />cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well<br />on contents such as seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic bottles,<br />collector magazines, refund checks, and rubber or plastic parts.<br />Especially useful for slicing work clothes, but only while in use.</p>


	<p>DAMMIT TOOL: Any handy tool that you grab and throw across the garage<br />while yelling &#8220;DAMMIT&#8221; at the top of your lungs. It is also, most often,<br />the next tool that you will need.</p>]]>
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      <pubDate>Mon, 03 Dec 2007 01:22:27 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://lumberjocks.com/Liam/blog/2664</guid>
      <author>Liam</author>
      <dc:creator>Liam</dc:creator>
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