Curved Doors; Raised panel & Six light glass

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Blog series by Les Hastings updated 11-28-2008 01:58 AM 9 parts 96053 reads 77 comments total

Part 1: Finished product

07-01-2008 02:47 AM by Les Hastings | 14 comments »

Let me start off by saying I’ve been absent a while from Lumberjocks, been really busy the last couple of months. Working seven days a week again, yeap its no fun! I’ve had a number of Lumberjocks ask me to do a blog on curved doors,,,,,,,,,Well here it is! We’ve been building another kitchen in the shop, its just about complete. Lucky for you that are interested it has curved doors, two different kind of curved doors. A pair of rasied panel doors and one single six ...

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Part 2: Getting started

07-25-2008 03:10 AM by Les Hastings | 5 comments »

I’ll be covering the construction of two different kinds of curved doors. A pair of raised panel doors with one inch thick styles and rails and a 3/4 thick panel. With an outside radius of 20” and an inside radius of 19”. The second is a single six divided light glass door. Its style and rails are also 1” thick, its outside radius is 12 1/4” and the inside 11 1/4”. Lets start with making the jigs to mill the radius styles for each set of doors. The star...

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Part 3: Rails

08-09-2008 01:11 AM by Les Hastings | 5 comments »

First off here’s a better picture of the radius jig for the styles and panel parts. It shows how I set it up with both the inside and the outside cradles attached to the tray and the router base’s. And if you look close you can see the 1/2 inch foam pad that I use to sand the styles with. Just a reminder you can click on the picture to see the whole thing. Ok, lets get started on the rails for the doors and the the face frame for the cabinet case. I just make a 1/2” thic...

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Part 4: Finishing up the styles

08-13-2008 02:28 AM by Les Hastings | 5 comments »

The styles have been cleaned up and sanded to 120 grit. Now its time to cut the inside edge of the styles to the correct angle. I use a full size computer drawing to do this but you could draw out the door full size on a sheet of plywood to do the same thing. I never really concern myself with what the angle is. I usaully just take my style and stand it on end on the drawing and mark the front and back where the style needs to cut and connect the dots. That will be close enough for a good sta...

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Part 5: Finishing up the rails

08-29-2008 02:51 AM by Les Hastings | 7 comments »

In part three of this blog I milled out the pieces for the rails and got them glued up to width. Now after they have had plenty time in the clamps we’ll get started cleaning them up. get the glue all scrapped off and ready to sand. I make sanding blocks to the correct radius for the inside and outside of the rails and use 80 grit sticky back snad paper and stick it to the blocks. Below is picture of some finished rails with the sanding blocks that were used to clean them up. I use 80 gr...

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Part 6: Panel glue ups

08-30-2008 04:49 AM by Les Hastings | 12 comments »

The panels for these doors will be four boards wide. They were milled at the same time the styles were using the same radius jigs. the panels will end up 3/4 thick, the parts were milled a strong 1/32 over that thickness to allow for sanding. A tray was used once again to cut the angle on all the parts on the table saw. After the angle is cut on both both sides the parts are biscuted a to help in the gluing process. Make sure you keep them back far enough so they do not come out in the pro...

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Part 7: Shaping the raised panels/doweling the styles and rails

09-05-2008 03:53 AM by Les Hastings | 10 comments »

The panels are now ready to run the profile so lets get started. First we need to make a tray that has the same radius as the outside of the panel. This will help in supporting the panel fully while running the ends of the panel. I use a piece of 3/4 mdf long enough to support at least half of the panels length. Radius pieces are made from 3/4 mdf and screwed to tey base. The base will then be clamped to the shaper table. Another piece of mdf or plywood, 1/2” thick in ths case is atta...

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Part 8: Gluing up the doors/ Finished and hanging

09-08-2008 12:09 AM by Les Hastings | 9 comments »

The final glue up of the doors is done the same way the panels were glued up. I use a I” thick piece of mdf for a base clamping block. It is about an 1/8 narrower than the door is at this point. The styles on the doors are still wide at this point , they will be trimmed to fit the cabinet after they are all cleaned up. You’ll need two clamp blocks made from 3/4 mdf that match the outside radius of the doors. Then the glue up is done like the pictures below. Once the doors h...

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Part 9: Inside curved panels

11-28-2008 01:58 AM by Les Hastings | 10 comments »

I just got through doing a project that hand some curved raised panels, but instead of being outy’s these were iny’s. I go through the same process to make the panels the only difference is the way the profile on the edge is run. I purchased a horizontal router table from Woodhaven to help get these made and a vertical raised panel router bit that matched the all the flat panels on the project. Like I said the process is really close to the same, its just the way location of the...

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