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Miter Saw Station

39K views 77 replies 24 participants last post by  Lenny 
#1 ·
Cabinet Construction

In Fine Woodworking magazine's Winter 2014 Tool & Shops annual issue, Robert O'Brien shared his various shop work stations, including a chop saw station. As I studied it, I came to really like it, and decided to build one identical to it. It incorporates a shelf for the miter saw, flanked by a set of two base cabinets. There is a lot of work involved in this build and after a good start; I decided to post this as a blog series. If done timely, the first post would have shown cabinet construction. Since I am already past that, I will provide a brief description of how it played out.

I made four base cabinets from Âľ" birch plywood. The boxes have two sides with a rabbet at the top and bottom to receive those elements and the back is set into a dado milled on all four pieces. Glue and screws hold everything together. The face frames are solid maple milled to about 2 inches wide and joined via glue and pocket screws. The face frames are attached to the carcasses (carcases if you prefer) with glue and biscuits. Each cabinet has an opening for a drawer and a door beneath it. Two cabinets were screwed to each other making the two sets.

Next, I built a base for each set of cabinets. I used pressure treated 2Ă—6 and faced it with poplar. I leveled the cabinets with shims and screwed them into wall studs. The cabinets and the base received two coats of oil-based polyurethane. Here are a few photos. Next, the shelf and counter tops.

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Wood Interior design Cabinetry Floor Flooring


Wood Wood stain Rectangle Hardwood Table
 

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#2 ·
Cabinet Construction

In Fine Woodworking magazine's Winter 2014 Tool & Shops annual issue, Robert O'Brien shared his various shop work stations, including a chop saw station. As I studied it, I came to really like it, and decided to build one identical to it. It incorporates a shelf for the miter saw, flanked by a set of two base cabinets. There is a lot of work involved in this build and after a good start; I decided to post this as a blog series. If done timely, the first post would have shown cabinet construction. Since I am already past that, I will provide a brief description of how it played out.

I made four base cabinets from Âľ" birch plywood. The boxes have two sides with a rabbet at the top and bottom to receive those elements and the back is set into a dado milled on all four pieces. Glue and screws hold everything together. The face frames are solid maple milled to about 2 inches wide and joined via glue and pocket screws. The face frames are attached to the carcasses (carcases if you prefer) with glue and biscuits. Each cabinet has an opening for a drawer and a door beneath it. Two cabinets were screwed to each other making the two sets.

Next, I built a base for each set of cabinets. I used pressure treated 2Ă—6 and faced it with poplar. I leveled the cabinets with shims and screwed them into wall studs. The cabinets and the base received two coats of oil-based polyurethane. Here are a few photos. Next, the shelf and counter tops.

Table Wood Computer desk Drill Workbench


Wood Interior design Cabinetry Floor Flooring


Wood Wood stain Rectangle Hardwood Table
Nice job Lenny.
I recently did a wall like this. Best thing about it is the amount of storage that you get.

You really seem to do a nice job with these.
Steve
 

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#3 ·
Cabinet Construction

In Fine Woodworking magazine's Winter 2014 Tool & Shops annual issue, Robert O'Brien shared his various shop work stations, including a chop saw station. As I studied it, I came to really like it, and decided to build one identical to it. It incorporates a shelf for the miter saw, flanked by a set of two base cabinets. There is a lot of work involved in this build and after a good start; I decided to post this as a blog series. If done timely, the first post would have shown cabinet construction. Since I am already past that, I will provide a brief description of how it played out.

I made four base cabinets from Âľ" birch plywood. The boxes have two sides with a rabbet at the top and bottom to receive those elements and the back is set into a dado milled on all four pieces. Glue and screws hold everything together. The face frames are solid maple milled to about 2 inches wide and joined via glue and pocket screws. The face frames are attached to the carcasses (carcases if you prefer) with glue and biscuits. Each cabinet has an opening for a drawer and a door beneath it. Two cabinets were screwed to each other making the two sets.

Next, I built a base for each set of cabinets. I used pressure treated 2Ă—6 and faced it with poplar. I leveled the cabinets with shims and screwed them into wall studs. The cabinets and the base received two coats of oil-based polyurethane. Here are a few photos. Next, the shelf and counter tops.

Table Wood Computer desk Drill Workbench


Wood Interior design Cabinetry Floor Flooring


Wood Wood stain Rectangle Hardwood Table
Lenny; That is looking awesome. Makes me want to redo my current set up.
 

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#4 ·
Cabinet Construction

In Fine Woodworking magazine's Winter 2014 Tool & Shops annual issue, Robert O'Brien shared his various shop work stations, including a chop saw station. As I studied it, I came to really like it, and decided to build one identical to it. It incorporates a shelf for the miter saw, flanked by a set of two base cabinets. There is a lot of work involved in this build and after a good start; I decided to post this as a blog series. If done timely, the first post would have shown cabinet construction. Since I am already past that, I will provide a brief description of how it played out.

I made four base cabinets from Âľ" birch plywood. The boxes have two sides with a rabbet at the top and bottom to receive those elements and the back is set into a dado milled on all four pieces. Glue and screws hold everything together. The face frames are solid maple milled to about 2 inches wide and joined via glue and pocket screws. The face frames are attached to the carcasses (carcases if you prefer) with glue and biscuits. Each cabinet has an opening for a drawer and a door beneath it. Two cabinets were screwed to each other making the two sets.

Next, I built a base for each set of cabinets. I used pressure treated 2Ă—6 and faced it with poplar. I leveled the cabinets with shims and screwed them into wall studs. The cabinets and the base received two coats of oil-based polyurethane. Here are a few photos. Next, the shelf and counter tops.

Table Wood Computer desk Drill Workbench


Wood Interior design Cabinetry Floor Flooring


Wood Wood stain Rectangle Hardwood Table
Lookin good from here ;-)
 

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#5 ·
Cabinet Construction

In Fine Woodworking magazine's Winter 2014 Tool & Shops annual issue, Robert O'Brien shared his various shop work stations, including a chop saw station. As I studied it, I came to really like it, and decided to build one identical to it. It incorporates a shelf for the miter saw, flanked by a set of two base cabinets. There is a lot of work involved in this build and after a good start; I decided to post this as a blog series. If done timely, the first post would have shown cabinet construction. Since I am already past that, I will provide a brief description of how it played out.

I made four base cabinets from Âľ" birch plywood. The boxes have two sides with a rabbet at the top and bottom to receive those elements and the back is set into a dado milled on all four pieces. Glue and screws hold everything together. The face frames are solid maple milled to about 2 inches wide and joined via glue and pocket screws. The face frames are attached to the carcasses (carcases if you prefer) with glue and biscuits. Each cabinet has an opening for a drawer and a door beneath it. Two cabinets were screwed to each other making the two sets.

Next, I built a base for each set of cabinets. I used pressure treated 2Ă—6 and faced it with poplar. I leveled the cabinets with shims and screwed them into wall studs. The cabinets and the base received two coats of oil-based polyurethane. Here are a few photos. Next, the shelf and counter tops.

Table Wood Computer desk Drill Workbench


Wood Interior design Cabinetry Floor Flooring


Wood Wood stain Rectangle Hardwood Table
Great work, Lenny. This kind of cabinet makes the miter saw cuts so much easier.
I like your miter saw too ;-)
Ellen
 

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#6 ·
Cabinet Construction

In Fine Woodworking magazine's Winter 2014 Tool & Shops annual issue, Robert O'Brien shared his various shop work stations, including a chop saw station. As I studied it, I came to really like it, and decided to build one identical to it. It incorporates a shelf for the miter saw, flanked by a set of two base cabinets. There is a lot of work involved in this build and after a good start; I decided to post this as a blog series. If done timely, the first post would have shown cabinet construction. Since I am already past that, I will provide a brief description of how it played out.

I made four base cabinets from Âľ" birch plywood. The boxes have two sides with a rabbet at the top and bottom to receive those elements and the back is set into a dado milled on all four pieces. Glue and screws hold everything together. The face frames are solid maple milled to about 2 inches wide and joined via glue and pocket screws. The face frames are attached to the carcasses (carcases if you prefer) with glue and biscuits. Each cabinet has an opening for a drawer and a door beneath it. Two cabinets were screwed to each other making the two sets.

Next, I built a base for each set of cabinets. I used pressure treated 2Ă—6 and faced it with poplar. I leveled the cabinets with shims and screwed them into wall studs. The cabinets and the base received two coats of oil-based polyurethane. Here are a few photos. Next, the shelf and counter tops.

Table Wood Computer desk Drill Workbench


Wood Interior design Cabinetry Floor Flooring


Wood Wood stain Rectangle Hardwood Table
Thanks everyone. Steve, the additional storage space is all part of a larger scheme. I'm looking forward to getting several items in a proper drawer or cabinet tray. Ellen, you wouldn't have a biased perspective on the saw would you?
 

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#7 ·
Cabinet Construction

In Fine Woodworking magazine's Winter 2014 Tool & Shops annual issue, Robert O'Brien shared his various shop work stations, including a chop saw station. As I studied it, I came to really like it, and decided to build one identical to it. It incorporates a shelf for the miter saw, flanked by a set of two base cabinets. There is a lot of work involved in this build and after a good start; I decided to post this as a blog series. If done timely, the first post would have shown cabinet construction. Since I am already past that, I will provide a brief description of how it played out.

I made four base cabinets from Âľ" birch plywood. The boxes have two sides with a rabbet at the top and bottom to receive those elements and the back is set into a dado milled on all four pieces. Glue and screws hold everything together. The face frames are solid maple milled to about 2 inches wide and joined via glue and pocket screws. The face frames are attached to the carcasses (carcases if you prefer) with glue and biscuits. Each cabinet has an opening for a drawer and a door beneath it. Two cabinets were screwed to each other making the two sets.

Next, I built a base for each set of cabinets. I used pressure treated 2Ă—6 and faced it with poplar. I leveled the cabinets with shims and screwed them into wall studs. The cabinets and the base received two coats of oil-based polyurethane. Here are a few photos. Next, the shelf and counter tops.

Table Wood Computer desk Drill Workbench


Wood Interior design Cabinetry Floor Flooring


Wood Wood stain Rectangle Hardwood Table
you did a really nice job here lenny, your cabinet building skills are top notch and im glad to see this is a digital free project..:)..and as ellen has said, the saw is really nice too.
 

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#8 ·
Cabinet Construction

In Fine Woodworking magazine's Winter 2014 Tool & Shops annual issue, Robert O'Brien shared his various shop work stations, including a chop saw station. As I studied it, I came to really like it, and decided to build one identical to it. It incorporates a shelf for the miter saw, flanked by a set of two base cabinets. There is a lot of work involved in this build and after a good start; I decided to post this as a blog series. If done timely, the first post would have shown cabinet construction. Since I am already past that, I will provide a brief description of how it played out.

I made four base cabinets from Âľ" birch plywood. The boxes have two sides with a rabbet at the top and bottom to receive those elements and the back is set into a dado milled on all four pieces. Glue and screws hold everything together. The face frames are solid maple milled to about 2 inches wide and joined via glue and pocket screws. The face frames are attached to the carcasses (carcases if you prefer) with glue and biscuits. Each cabinet has an opening for a drawer and a door beneath it. Two cabinets were screwed to each other making the two sets.

Next, I built a base for each set of cabinets. I used pressure treated 2Ă—6 and faced it with poplar. I leveled the cabinets with shims and screwed them into wall studs. The cabinets and the base received two coats of oil-based polyurethane. Here are a few photos. Next, the shelf and counter tops.

Table Wood Computer desk Drill Workbench


Wood Interior design Cabinetry Floor Flooring


Wood Wood stain Rectangle Hardwood Table
Looks great, I agree it makes using the saw so much easier
 

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#9 ·
Cabinet Construction

In Fine Woodworking magazine's Winter 2014 Tool & Shops annual issue, Robert O'Brien shared his various shop work stations, including a chop saw station. As I studied it, I came to really like it, and decided to build one identical to it. It incorporates a shelf for the miter saw, flanked by a set of two base cabinets. There is a lot of work involved in this build and after a good start; I decided to post this as a blog series. If done timely, the first post would have shown cabinet construction. Since I am already past that, I will provide a brief description of how it played out.

I made four base cabinets from Âľ" birch plywood. The boxes have two sides with a rabbet at the top and bottom to receive those elements and the back is set into a dado milled on all four pieces. Glue and screws hold everything together. The face frames are solid maple milled to about 2 inches wide and joined via glue and pocket screws. The face frames are attached to the carcasses (carcases if you prefer) with glue and biscuits. Each cabinet has an opening for a drawer and a door beneath it. Two cabinets were screwed to each other making the two sets.

Next, I built a base for each set of cabinets. I used pressure treated 2Ă—6 and faced it with poplar. I leveled the cabinets with shims and screwed them into wall studs. The cabinets and the base received two coats of oil-based polyurethane. Here are a few photos. Next, the shelf and counter tops.

Table Wood Computer desk Drill Workbench


Wood Interior design Cabinetry Floor Flooring


Wood Wood stain Rectangle Hardwood Table
really nice!
 

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#10 ·
Cabinet Construction

In Fine Woodworking magazine's Winter 2014 Tool & Shops annual issue, Robert O'Brien shared his various shop work stations, including a chop saw station. As I studied it, I came to really like it, and decided to build one identical to it. It incorporates a shelf for the miter saw, flanked by a set of two base cabinets. There is a lot of work involved in this build and after a good start; I decided to post this as a blog series. If done timely, the first post would have shown cabinet construction. Since I am already past that, I will provide a brief description of how it played out.

I made four base cabinets from Âľ" birch plywood. The boxes have two sides with a rabbet at the top and bottom to receive those elements and the back is set into a dado milled on all four pieces. Glue and screws hold everything together. The face frames are solid maple milled to about 2 inches wide and joined via glue and pocket screws. The face frames are attached to the carcasses (carcases if you prefer) with glue and biscuits. Each cabinet has an opening for a drawer and a door beneath it. Two cabinets were screwed to each other making the two sets.

Next, I built a base for each set of cabinets. I used pressure treated 2Ă—6 and faced it with poplar. I leveled the cabinets with shims and screwed them into wall studs. The cabinets and the base received two coats of oil-based polyurethane. Here are a few photos. Next, the shelf and counter tops.

Table Wood Computer desk Drill Workbench


Wood Interior design Cabinetry Floor Flooring


Wood Wood stain Rectangle Hardwood Table
Great build on a very useful project. The cabinets and face frames came out great.
 

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#11 ·
Cabinet Construction

In Fine Woodworking magazine's Winter 2014 Tool & Shops annual issue, Robert O'Brien shared his various shop work stations, including a chop saw station. As I studied it, I came to really like it, and decided to build one identical to it. It incorporates a shelf for the miter saw, flanked by a set of two base cabinets. There is a lot of work involved in this build and after a good start; I decided to post this as a blog series. If done timely, the first post would have shown cabinet construction. Since I am already past that, I will provide a brief description of how it played out.

I made four base cabinets from Âľ" birch plywood. The boxes have two sides with a rabbet at the top and bottom to receive those elements and the back is set into a dado milled on all four pieces. Glue and screws hold everything together. The face frames are solid maple milled to about 2 inches wide and joined via glue and pocket screws. The face frames are attached to the carcasses (carcases if you prefer) with glue and biscuits. Each cabinet has an opening for a drawer and a door beneath it. Two cabinets were screwed to each other making the two sets.

Next, I built a base for each set of cabinets. I used pressure treated 2Ă—6 and faced it with poplar. I leveled the cabinets with shims and screwed them into wall studs. The cabinets and the base received two coats of oil-based polyurethane. Here are a few photos. Next, the shelf and counter tops.

Table Wood Computer desk Drill Workbench


Wood Interior design Cabinetry Floor Flooring


Wood Wood stain Rectangle Hardwood Table
Nice Level surfaces….you probably used angle iron with tapped set screws to do the leveling…am I right?
I'll be bringing over all my projects for my cuts now that you have that great station!!!!!

Paul
 

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#12 ·
Cabinet Construction

In Fine Woodworking magazine's Winter 2014 Tool & Shops annual issue, Robert O'Brien shared his various shop work stations, including a chop saw station. As I studied it, I came to really like it, and decided to build one identical to it. It incorporates a shelf for the miter saw, flanked by a set of two base cabinets. There is a lot of work involved in this build and after a good start; I decided to post this as a blog series. If done timely, the first post would have shown cabinet construction. Since I am already past that, I will provide a brief description of how it played out.

I made four base cabinets from Âľ" birch plywood. The boxes have two sides with a rabbet at the top and bottom to receive those elements and the back is set into a dado milled on all four pieces. Glue and screws hold everything together. The face frames are solid maple milled to about 2 inches wide and joined via glue and pocket screws. The face frames are attached to the carcasses (carcases if you prefer) with glue and biscuits. Each cabinet has an opening for a drawer and a door beneath it. Two cabinets were screwed to each other making the two sets.

Next, I built a base for each set of cabinets. I used pressure treated 2Ă—6 and faced it with poplar. I leveled the cabinets with shims and screwed them into wall studs. The cabinets and the base received two coats of oil-based polyurethane. Here are a few photos. Next, the shelf and counter tops.

Table Wood Computer desk Drill Workbench


Wood Interior design Cabinetry Floor Flooring


Wood Wood stain Rectangle Hardwood Table
So how do you like that Bosch Glide?
 

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#13 ·
Cabinet Construction

In Fine Woodworking magazine's Winter 2014 Tool & Shops annual issue, Robert O'Brien shared his various shop work stations, including a chop saw station. As I studied it, I came to really like it, and decided to build one identical to it. It incorporates a shelf for the miter saw, flanked by a set of two base cabinets. There is a lot of work involved in this build and after a good start; I decided to post this as a blog series. If done timely, the first post would have shown cabinet construction. Since I am already past that, I will provide a brief description of how it played out.

I made four base cabinets from Âľ" birch plywood. The boxes have two sides with a rabbet at the top and bottom to receive those elements and the back is set into a dado milled on all four pieces. Glue and screws hold everything together. The face frames are solid maple milled to about 2 inches wide and joined via glue and pocket screws. The face frames are attached to the carcasses (carcases if you prefer) with glue and biscuits. Each cabinet has an opening for a drawer and a door beneath it. Two cabinets were screwed to each other making the two sets.

Next, I built a base for each set of cabinets. I used pressure treated 2Ă—6 and faced it with poplar. I leveled the cabinets with shims and screwed them into wall studs. The cabinets and the base received two coats of oil-based polyurethane. Here are a few photos. Next, the shelf and counter tops.

Table Wood Computer desk Drill Workbench


Wood Interior design Cabinetry Floor Flooring


Wood Wood stain Rectangle Hardwood Table
Thanks guys. Paul, how did you ever guess? runwithscissors, I haven't used the saw a lot yet but it seems to be a dream miter saw. I threw in a 90-tooth Forrest blade and it cuts beautifully. The chopping and sliding actions are flawless and leave wonderfully smooth end grain. So far, no regrets…just smiles.
 

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#14 ·
Cabinet Construction

In Fine Woodworking magazine's Winter 2014 Tool & Shops annual issue, Robert O'Brien shared his various shop work stations, including a chop saw station. As I studied it, I came to really like it, and decided to build one identical to it. It incorporates a shelf for the miter saw, flanked by a set of two base cabinets. There is a lot of work involved in this build and after a good start; I decided to post this as a blog series. If done timely, the first post would have shown cabinet construction. Since I am already past that, I will provide a brief description of how it played out.

I made four base cabinets from Âľ" birch plywood. The boxes have two sides with a rabbet at the top and bottom to receive those elements and the back is set into a dado milled on all four pieces. Glue and screws hold everything together. The face frames are solid maple milled to about 2 inches wide and joined via glue and pocket screws. The face frames are attached to the carcasses (carcases if you prefer) with glue and biscuits. Each cabinet has an opening for a drawer and a door beneath it. Two cabinets were screwed to each other making the two sets.

Next, I built a base for each set of cabinets. I used pressure treated 2Ă—6 and faced it with poplar. I leveled the cabinets with shims and screwed them into wall studs. The cabinets and the base received two coats of oil-based polyurethane. Here are a few photos. Next, the shelf and counter tops.

Table Wood Computer desk Drill Workbench


Wood Interior design Cabinetry Floor Flooring


Wood Wood stain Rectangle Hardwood Table
Nice setup Lenny.
 

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#15 ·
Cabinet Construction

In Fine Woodworking magazine's Winter 2014 Tool & Shops annual issue, Robert O'Brien shared his various shop work stations, including a chop saw station. As I studied it, I came to really like it, and decided to build one identical to it. It incorporates a shelf for the miter saw, flanked by a set of two base cabinets. There is a lot of work involved in this build and after a good start; I decided to post this as a blog series. If done timely, the first post would have shown cabinet construction. Since I am already past that, I will provide a brief description of how it played out.

I made four base cabinets from Âľ" birch plywood. The boxes have two sides with a rabbet at the top and bottom to receive those elements and the back is set into a dado milled on all four pieces. Glue and screws hold everything together. The face frames are solid maple milled to about 2 inches wide and joined via glue and pocket screws. The face frames are attached to the carcasses (carcases if you prefer) with glue and biscuits. Each cabinet has an opening for a drawer and a door beneath it. Two cabinets were screwed to each other making the two sets.

Next, I built a base for each set of cabinets. I used pressure treated 2Ă—6 and faced it with poplar. I leveled the cabinets with shims and screwed them into wall studs. The cabinets and the base received two coats of oil-based polyurethane. Here are a few photos. Next, the shelf and counter tops.

Table Wood Computer desk Drill Workbench


Wood Interior design Cabinetry Floor Flooring


Wood Wood stain Rectangle Hardwood Table
You're off to a great start Lenny! You'll have a lot of storage space as well as in feed & Out feed tables for your miter saw.
 

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#16 ·
Cabinet Construction

In Fine Woodworking magazine's Winter 2014 Tool & Shops annual issue, Robert O'Brien shared his various shop work stations, including a chop saw station. As I studied it, I came to really like it, and decided to build one identical to it. It incorporates a shelf for the miter saw, flanked by a set of two base cabinets. There is a lot of work involved in this build and after a good start; I decided to post this as a blog series. If done timely, the first post would have shown cabinet construction. Since I am already past that, I will provide a brief description of how it played out.

I made four base cabinets from Âľ" birch plywood. The boxes have two sides with a rabbet at the top and bottom to receive those elements and the back is set into a dado milled on all four pieces. Glue and screws hold everything together. The face frames are solid maple milled to about 2 inches wide and joined via glue and pocket screws. The face frames are attached to the carcasses (carcases if you prefer) with glue and biscuits. Each cabinet has an opening for a drawer and a door beneath it. Two cabinets were screwed to each other making the two sets.

Next, I built a base for each set of cabinets. I used pressure treated 2Ă—6 and faced it with poplar. I leveled the cabinets with shims and screwed them into wall studs. The cabinets and the base received two coats of oil-based polyurethane. Here are a few photos. Next, the shelf and counter tops.

Table Wood Computer desk Drill Workbench


Wood Interior design Cabinetry Floor Flooring


Wood Wood stain Rectangle Hardwood Table
Thanks Lorna.
 

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#17 ·
Cabinet Construction

In Fine Woodworking magazine's Winter 2014 Tool & Shops annual issue, Robert O'Brien shared his various shop work stations, including a chop saw station. As I studied it, I came to really like it, and decided to build one identical to it. It incorporates a shelf for the miter saw, flanked by a set of two base cabinets. There is a lot of work involved in this build and after a good start; I decided to post this as a blog series. If done timely, the first post would have shown cabinet construction. Since I am already past that, I will provide a brief description of how it played out.

I made four base cabinets from Âľ" birch plywood. The boxes have two sides with a rabbet at the top and bottom to receive those elements and the back is set into a dado milled on all four pieces. Glue and screws hold everything together. The face frames are solid maple milled to about 2 inches wide and joined via glue and pocket screws. The face frames are attached to the carcasses (carcases if you prefer) with glue and biscuits. Each cabinet has an opening for a drawer and a door beneath it. Two cabinets were screwed to each other making the two sets.

Next, I built a base for each set of cabinets. I used pressure treated 2Ă—6 and faced it with poplar. I leveled the cabinets with shims and screwed them into wall studs. The cabinets and the base received two coats of oil-based polyurethane. Here are a few photos. Next, the shelf and counter tops.

Table Wood Computer desk Drill Workbench


Wood Interior design Cabinetry Floor Flooring


Wood Wood stain Rectangle Hardwood Table
Is that the 10 or 12" new Bosch? I have an older 12" slider Bosch that I really like. I have it on the portable stand and want to build a saw station for it like yours but am hesistant to do so because it would have to stick out so far from the wall.

I might put my saw up for sale and see if I can get a few bucks for it to put towards the new hinged Bosch.
 

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#18 ·
Cabinet Construction

In Fine Woodworking magazine's Winter 2014 Tool & Shops annual issue, Robert O'Brien shared his various shop work stations, including a chop saw station. As I studied it, I came to really like it, and decided to build one identical to it. It incorporates a shelf for the miter saw, flanked by a set of two base cabinets. There is a lot of work involved in this build and after a good start; I decided to post this as a blog series. If done timely, the first post would have shown cabinet construction. Since I am already past that, I will provide a brief description of how it played out.

I made four base cabinets from Âľ" birch plywood. The boxes have two sides with a rabbet at the top and bottom to receive those elements and the back is set into a dado milled on all four pieces. Glue and screws hold everything together. The face frames are solid maple milled to about 2 inches wide and joined via glue and pocket screws. The face frames are attached to the carcasses (carcases if you prefer) with glue and biscuits. Each cabinet has an opening for a drawer and a door beneath it. Two cabinets were screwed to each other making the two sets.

Next, I built a base for each set of cabinets. I used pressure treated 2Ă—6 and faced it with poplar. I leveled the cabinets with shims and screwed them into wall studs. The cabinets and the base received two coats of oil-based polyurethane. Here are a few photos. Next, the shelf and counter tops.

Table Wood Computer desk Drill Workbench


Wood Interior design Cabinetry Floor Flooring


Wood Wood stain Rectangle Hardwood Table
It's the 12" miter saw.
 

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#19 ·
The Shelf

With the cabinets in place, I turned my attention to the shelf that would be placed between them, on which the saw will sit. Because I had some questions about attachment of the fence, I contacted Fine Woodworking magazine and obtained Bob O'Brien's e-mail address. I asked him for specific info regarding the fence. He sent back a detailed response that included how he made and installed the shelf. Bob made his from a buildup of Âľ" MDF and phenolic plywood and wrapped it in a border of solid maple. To jump ahead a bit, the counter tops are made the same way. Phenolic plywood (available at Woodcraft and Rockler) is not cheap. I planned to make the counter tops from it but decided to cut my expenses a bit by not using it on the shelf. After all, the saw simply sits on the shelf. The counter tops will be what take a beating. Instead, I used two layers of MDF, painted it and once the maple border was attached, I used spray can polyurethane to finish it. The shelf is roughly 35" wide and 21" deep. I left room at the back for a dust collection hose.

Wood Rectangle Flooring Floor Wood stain


The saw has to sit on the shelf such that the bed is level with the finished counter tops. Here is the method Bob used and that I (for the most part) followed: I used 1-1/2×1-1/2 inch steel angle iron bolted to each of the side cabinets. The horizontal leg of the angle iron sits roughly ¼-inch below the bottom of the presumed location of the saw platform. Four ¼-20 hex socket cap screws are located in each angle iron. The two outer screws are for leveling and the angle iron is tapped for the screws to thread into. The two inner cap screws are to secure the shelf. They go through untapped holes in the angle iron and into threaded inserts recessed into the shelf bottom. You bolt the saw to the shelf, position the saw and shelf front-to-back, level it with the four outboard screws and finally, lock it in place with the four inboard screws into the inserts. I added a nut to jam against the angle iron and hold the cap screw in place. I had never tapped for screws so I contacted my buddy Paul. He is a fellow LJ (Harleysofttaildeuce). Paul is a machinist. He visited my shop with tapping tools in hand. With, the "feed a man a fish…teach a man to fish" theory in mind, he tapped the first hole, then taught me how to do the rest. Thank you Paul.

Wood Flooring Wood stain Floor Shade


Sewing machine Sewing machine feet Sewing Sewing machine needle Household appliance accessory


I am going to stop here and cover the counter tops in my next blog.
 

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#20 ·
The Shelf

With the cabinets in place, I turned my attention to the shelf that would be placed between them, on which the saw will sit. Because I had some questions about attachment of the fence, I contacted Fine Woodworking magazine and obtained Bob O'Brien's e-mail address. I asked him for specific info regarding the fence. He sent back a detailed response that included how he made and installed the shelf. Bob made his from a buildup of Âľ" MDF and phenolic plywood and wrapped it in a border of solid maple. To jump ahead a bit, the counter tops are made the same way. Phenolic plywood (available at Woodcraft and Rockler) is not cheap. I planned to make the counter tops from it but decided to cut my expenses a bit by not using it on the shelf. After all, the saw simply sits on the shelf. The counter tops will be what take a beating. Instead, I used two layers of MDF, painted it and once the maple border was attached, I used spray can polyurethane to finish it. The shelf is roughly 35" wide and 21" deep. I left room at the back for a dust collection hose.

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The saw has to sit on the shelf such that the bed is level with the finished counter tops. Here is the method Bob used and that I (for the most part) followed: I used 1-1/2×1-1/2 inch steel angle iron bolted to each of the side cabinets. The horizontal leg of the angle iron sits roughly ¼-inch below the bottom of the presumed location of the saw platform. Four ¼-20 hex socket cap screws are located in each angle iron. The two outer screws are for leveling and the angle iron is tapped for the screws to thread into. The two inner cap screws are to secure the shelf. They go through untapped holes in the angle iron and into threaded inserts recessed into the shelf bottom. You bolt the saw to the shelf, position the saw and shelf front-to-back, level it with the four outboard screws and finally, lock it in place with the four inboard screws into the inserts. I added a nut to jam against the angle iron and hold the cap screw in place. I had never tapped for screws so I contacted my buddy Paul. He is a fellow LJ (Harleysofttaildeuce). Paul is a machinist. He visited my shop with tapping tools in hand. With, the "feed a man a fish…teach a man to fish" theory in mind, he tapped the first hole, then taught me how to do the rest. Thank you Paul.

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Sewing machine Sewing machine feet Sewing Sewing machine needle Household appliance accessory


I am going to stop here and cover the counter tops in my next blog.
coming allong nicely lenny

i have a similar build for my saw too
but rather than bolting the saw itself to the shelf
i got it secure with corner stop blocks
so i can remove the saw
for job site use

then just drop it back in
when i need it in the shop
 

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#29 ·
Counter Tops

As noted in my previous post, the counter tops consist of a layer of MDF topped off with phenolic plywood. T-track runs the length of the countertop and is the means by which the fence system will be held in place. I purchased Woodpecker's DP (dual purpose) track. The underside has a single centered t-slot that accepts ¼ inch hex bolts. Rather than rout the channel for the t-track, I cut the phenolic ply to fit around the track. Since the track is only ½ inch thick, you have to add a spacer to bring it to counter top level. Here's a photo to show what I have described (minus the spacer).

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With the saw sitting on the installed shelf in the approximate location it will sit, I placed a straight edge against the saw's fence and extended it over the counter top and made a mark. That is exactly where the front edge of the track must fall. I continued taking precise measurements and then cut the rear pieces of phenolic ply to size. I attached these pieces to the MDF using hot melt glue to hold them in place so I could turn them over and nail them from below. Next, I glued and nailed the spacer for under the t-track alongside the rear phenolic ply. At this stage I placed the unit on top of the cabinet exactly where it would sit and drilled holes precisely where the ÂĽ-20 hex bolts would go. I drilled through the spacer, the MDF and the cabinet tops. I placed bolts in the t-track, slid the t-track in place and assured a snug fit. Now I measured for the front pieces of phenolic ply, cut those and glued and nailed them just as I did the rear pieces. All that was left was to wrap the unit in solid maple and polyurethane the maple.

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Furniture Table Wood Rectangle Wood stain


Wood Floor Table Flooring Hardwood


Table Wood Interior design Building Flooring


Next up: The fence system. Hint: Kreg does more than pocket hole jigs.
 

Attachments

#30 ·
Counter Tops

As noted in my previous post, the counter tops consist of a layer of MDF topped off with phenolic plywood. T-track runs the length of the countertop and is the means by which the fence system will be held in place. I purchased Woodpecker's DP (dual purpose) track. The underside has a single centered t-slot that accepts ¼ inch hex bolts. Rather than rout the channel for the t-track, I cut the phenolic ply to fit around the track. Since the track is only ½ inch thick, you have to add a spacer to bring it to counter top level. Here's a photo to show what I have described (minus the spacer).

Wood Flooring Automotive exterior Table Hardwood


With the saw sitting on the installed shelf in the approximate location it will sit, I placed a straight edge against the saw's fence and extended it over the counter top and made a mark. That is exactly where the front edge of the track must fall. I continued taking precise measurements and then cut the rear pieces of phenolic ply to size. I attached these pieces to the MDF using hot melt glue to hold them in place so I could turn them over and nail them from below. Next, I glued and nailed the spacer for under the t-track alongside the rear phenolic ply. At this stage I placed the unit on top of the cabinet exactly where it would sit and drilled holes precisely where the ÂĽ-20 hex bolts would go. I drilled through the spacer, the MDF and the cabinet tops. I placed bolts in the t-track, slid the t-track in place and assured a snug fit. Now I measured for the front pieces of phenolic ply, cut those and glued and nailed them just as I did the rear pieces. All that was left was to wrap the unit in solid maple and polyurethane the maple.

Wood Flooring Floor Wood stain Table


Furniture Table Wood Rectangle Wood stain


Wood Floor Table Flooring Hardwood


Table Wood Interior design Building Flooring


Next up: The fence system. Hint: Kreg does more than pocket hole jigs.
Very snazzy miter station Lenny
 

Attachments

#41 ·
The Fence System

I opted for the Kreg Precision Trak and Stop System for my miter saw fence. I attended the New England Woodworking Show in January and Peachtree was selling the system at a discount that put the price lower than any I had seen so I bought it. When I opened it up the other day, there were no instructions inside. A call to Kreg customer service took care of that quickly. The tech apologized and then helped me navigate their website to find and print the instruction sheet. The system comes with 8 feet of track, in two feet lengths. It also has a flip stop, production stop and adhesive measuring tape, one left to right and one right to left. Although my counter top is 54 inches on each side, the fence is 48 inches to match the track. You have to make the height of the fence exactly 2-1/4 inches in order for the stops to work correctly. I made my fence from 3/4-inch Baltic birch. It's simply two pieces joined at a right angle with glue and brads. I put two coats of polyurethane on it. I drilled holes in the horizontal leg for hex bolts that sit in the Woodpecker DP track to hold the fence in place with knobs. When I bought knobs for the fence, I purchased star knobs and they are too big. I have to swap them out for smaller ones. The track sits on top of the fence and is attached with supplied wood screws. You first have to drill the track. Kreg milled a score line along the back of the track as a drill guide. Once the track is attached, you place the fence exactly where it will sit and using a scrap board milled to exactly 24 inches long and 3 inches tall, you butt the board against the saw blade. Using an accurate square, you mark a line on the track. The cursor mark on the stops is offset by 3/8-inch. You align 24-3/8 inches on the tape measure with your pencil mark and adhere the tape the entire length of your fence. Fine adjustments can be made by moving the cursor slightly. Based on where my fence sits on the counter top, I can use the tape measure to about 66 inches. If I need to go beyond that, I can fit and cut up to 10 feet to the right of the blade and just under 7 feet to the left. These cuts will have to be measured with a hand held tape measure.

Wood Hood Flooring Floor Bumper


Wood Hardwood Wood stain Flooring Tool


Wood Door Floor Wood stain Hardwood


Wood Rectangle Floor Flooring Hardwood


Wood Hardwood Flooring Machine Sports equipment


All that's left is drawers and doors. I believe it will be awhile before the next post.
 

Attachments

#42 ·
The Fence System

I opted for the Kreg Precision Trak and Stop System for my miter saw fence. I attended the New England Woodworking Show in January and Peachtree was selling the system at a discount that put the price lower than any I had seen so I bought it. When I opened it up the other day, there were no instructions inside. A call to Kreg customer service took care of that quickly. The tech apologized and then helped me navigate their website to find and print the instruction sheet. The system comes with 8 feet of track, in two feet lengths. It also has a flip stop, production stop and adhesive measuring tape, one left to right and one right to left. Although my counter top is 54 inches on each side, the fence is 48 inches to match the track. You have to make the height of the fence exactly 2-1/4 inches in order for the stops to work correctly. I made my fence from 3/4-inch Baltic birch. It's simply two pieces joined at a right angle with glue and brads. I put two coats of polyurethane on it. I drilled holes in the horizontal leg for hex bolts that sit in the Woodpecker DP track to hold the fence in place with knobs. When I bought knobs for the fence, I purchased star knobs and they are too big. I have to swap them out for smaller ones. The track sits on top of the fence and is attached with supplied wood screws. You first have to drill the track. Kreg milled a score line along the back of the track as a drill guide. Once the track is attached, you place the fence exactly where it will sit and using a scrap board milled to exactly 24 inches long and 3 inches tall, you butt the board against the saw blade. Using an accurate square, you mark a line on the track. The cursor mark on the stops is offset by 3/8-inch. You align 24-3/8 inches on the tape measure with your pencil mark and adhere the tape the entire length of your fence. Fine adjustments can be made by moving the cursor slightly. Based on where my fence sits on the counter top, I can use the tape measure to about 66 inches. If I need to go beyond that, I can fit and cut up to 10 feet to the right of the blade and just under 7 feet to the left. These cuts will have to be measured with a hand held tape measure.

Wood Hood Flooring Floor Bumper


Wood Hardwood Wood stain Flooring Tool


Wood Door Floor Wood stain Hardwood


Wood Rectangle Floor Flooring Hardwood


Wood Hardwood Flooring Machine Sports equipment


All that's left is drawers and doors. I believe it will be awhile before the next post.
Nice work, Lenny.
You are so neat!
 

Attachments

#62 ·
Door, Drawers and Trays

Kitchen sink Cabinetry Wood Plumbing fixture Sink


Property Wood Tool Plant Floor


I have completed the doors, drawers and pull-out trays of my miter saw station. The drawers are pretty basic. They are ¾ inch solid maple fronts, ½ inch Baltic birch sides and back and ¼ inch bottom. Either laziness or the fact that this is for a workshop, led me to use a locking rabbet joint for the drawer fronts versus dovetails.

Wood Rectangle Floor Flooring Composite material


I did the same for the pull-out trays. All the drawers and trays ride on full-extension drawer slides. For the doors, I went with solid maple rails and stiles and a Baltic Birch ÂĽ inch panel. I used mortise and tenon joinery for the frames and made these doors the full inset type.

I haven't fully decided what will go where in the cabinets and drawers but as you can see in one photo, my oscillating spindle sander fits nicely in a tray.

Wood Table Floor Cookware and bakeware Gas


Cabinetry Table Furniture Computer desk Drawer


I have lots of tools that I keep in their original case (jig saw, brad nailer, Kreg pocket hole kit and my Dremel tool for example). I can get them off the shop floor and into a tray or two. Speaking of trays, I went with four for now but depending on what I store, I could add additional trays within the cabinets.

Table Wood Cabinetry Computer desk Shelving


This pretty much completes this project. As seen in the photos, I have purchased a 36" flexible hose (from Rockler) that I will use with my DC system to pick up dust at the rear of the cut. I will use a shop vac with fittings in place of the bag that comes with the saw. I suspect that will catch the majority of the dust but, as we all know, miter saws are notorious for throwing dust. Thanks for checking in on me.
 

Attachments

#63 ·
Door, Drawers and Trays

Kitchen sink Cabinetry Wood Plumbing fixture Sink


Property Wood Tool Plant Floor


I have completed the doors, drawers and pull-out trays of my miter saw station. The drawers are pretty basic. They are ¾ inch solid maple fronts, ½ inch Baltic birch sides and back and ¼ inch bottom. Either laziness or the fact that this is for a workshop, led me to use a locking rabbet joint for the drawer fronts versus dovetails.

Wood Rectangle Floor Flooring Composite material


I did the same for the pull-out trays. All the drawers and trays ride on full-extension drawer slides. For the doors, I went with solid maple rails and stiles and a Baltic Birch ÂĽ inch panel. I used mortise and tenon joinery for the frames and made these doors the full inset type.

I haven't fully decided what will go where in the cabinets and drawers but as you can see in one photo, my oscillating spindle sander fits nicely in a tray.

Wood Table Floor Cookware and bakeware Gas


Cabinetry Table Furniture Computer desk Drawer


I have lots of tools that I keep in their original case (jig saw, brad nailer, Kreg pocket hole kit and my Dremel tool for example). I can get them off the shop floor and into a tray or two. Speaking of trays, I went with four for now but depending on what I store, I could add additional trays within the cabinets.

Table Wood Cabinetry Computer desk Shelving


This pretty much completes this project. As seen in the photos, I have purchased a 36" flexible hose (from Rockler) that I will use with my DC system to pick up dust at the rear of the cut. I will use a shop vac with fittings in place of the bag that comes with the saw. I suspect that will catch the majority of the dust but, as we all know, miter saws are notorious for throwing dust. Thanks for checking in on me.
Your shop is looking "tight". And we know tight is right. Nice….................
 

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