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Craftsman Table Saw 28462

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Blog series by LegendInMyOwnMind updated 1150 days ago 12 parts 23996 reads 39 comments total

Part 1: Craftsman Table Saw Miter

1163 days ago by LegendInMyOwnMind | 19 comments »

Like many people my first big shop tool was a table saw. Not knowing any better I bought a Sears Craftsman saw, model 28462. I’m sure there are good Craftsman saws, but the low end saws have a non-standard miter gauge slot. What does that mean? It means you can’t buy any standard tools such as featherboards, tenon jigs, etc. I really need a cross-cut sled and I am left to come up with a custom track to fit. Adding insult to injury this table saw has notches which mean that a squar...

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Part 2: Throat Plate pains

1159 days ago by LegendInMyOwnMind | 7 comments »

The standard throat is made so that the blade can be in any angle and not hit the plate. Trouble is, that’s pretty wide. 5/8” in fact. I want to make a zero clearance insert for my dado and a smaller throat for my standard blade but there’s some real problems. #1 – The throat plate is really thin. I measured .062. Will need to cut rabbits under the screw locations no matter what material I make it out of. #2 – The shape is a pain. Will use hardboard ...

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Part 3: Bars are in

1159 days ago by LegendInMyOwnMind | 3 comments »

The aluminum bar stock arrived and I got a big surprise. The 5/8” wide piece fit snugly in the bottom of the track with very little wobble/slop. The surprise was the 3/8” x 1/2” stock. It also fit nicely between the tabs – when I turned the 1/2” side between the slots.. Stacked together, the are a very nice solution with just a small amount above the table. I could probably bolt them together and easily make a sled that spans the blade and rides above th...

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Part 4: Trading off two designs

1158 days ago by LegendInMyOwnMind | 1 comment »

I’m trading off two designs for miter slot bars. The stock table and standard miter gauge looks like: My two piece build-up looks like: Removing the tabs looks like: This is a pretty fun tradeoff. MaterialEither uses available materials although removing the tabs uses one piece of material not two. The two piece build-up requires a method to bond the two bars together. I’m going to give JB Weld (the Qwik version) a shot. One bar is less expensive than two,...

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Part 5: More on the Throat Plate and a "Duh!"

1158 days ago by LegendInMyOwnMind | 0 comments »

OK, I’m not the sharpest tool in the shed. Nowhere near it. But it did occur to me that the reason the throat plate was so thin was that the table had a rubber gasket holding it up. What if I simply took out the gasket? How deep would it be then? And could I do something with the depth? Turns out really easily. Turns out when I measured the depth of the plate, it was a clean 1/8”. And I have piles of 1/8” hardboard. Maybe I am finally onto something? Sounds lik...

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Part 6: JB Weld - not so much

1157 days ago by LegendInMyOwnMind | 1 comment »

Tried the jb weld on the two Aluminum bars. Didn’t hold. Scuffed surface. Still didn’t hold. I did have a good idea. Wrapped the bars in wax paper before gluing to keep it from sticking in the track. Good news is that it does scrape off easily. Think I need to screw it together. Grinding off the tabs looks better now…

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Part 7: Stop the madness - track "solved"

1157 days ago by LegendInMyOwnMind | 0 comments »

I’ve been making this way too hard. I am going to cull the best ideas from this thread and fix this. Decided to forget about the bottom 1/8” and just use the 1/2” x 3/8” bar stock I bought. It’s nearly flush with the surface and has very little play (about .013” or less than 0.8 degrees across a 16” sled). I drilled oversized wood screw holes and will screw the tracks to the bottom of the sled. If I shim the track from opposite sides ...

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Part 8: Table Saw Sled

1157 days ago by LegendInMyOwnMind | 0 comments »

I cut the wood for the cross-cut sled. I’m basing this on the woodworking for mere mortals design , but with one difference, I want to have T track in the sled top to attach a tenon jig, The track will run parallel to the blade. Here’s the pile of “stuff”. The top is 18” deep x 26” wide. I made it a couple of inches deeper since I need to be able to square up 16” board shelving for my Stickley Inspired Entertainment Unit . I used the T-track me...

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Part 9: Notional Tenon Jig for Table Saw

1157 days ago by LegendInMyOwnMind | 0 comments »

One of my objectives in making the table saw sled is to mount a tenon jig to the sled. I want to bolt down the tenon jig into T track so I am adding a slot for the T track to the sled top. To do that I need to know the distance from the blade to the track. I’ve done a notional design using 3/4” lumber which shows the track needs to be 5-5/8” from the blade edge.

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Part 10: It's Hip to be Square

1157 days ago by LegendInMyOwnMind | 2 comments »

Fence glued and clamped. Squared fence to blade. Stop block… T-track – leave room to remove T bolt. Now I get to wait again for the glue to dry.

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Part 11: Sled and a Tenon jig oops

1156 days ago by LegendInMyOwnMind | 6 comments »

Assembled more of the sled. Waiting on glue to dry for the back fence and supports. Big Oops Didn’t think about this one… I wanted to mount a tenon jig on the sled. Even did a notional design to make sure I added T-track at the right place. Then I put the support bars. It wasn’t until the glue was mostly dried that I realized I had not thought through this very well. The bars go over the blade – right where the Tenon Jig needs to go. Need to rethink...

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Part 12: Sled done - working well

1150 days ago by LegendInMyOwnMind | 0 comments »

I got the sled done and it works well. Used Aluminum bar stock (see earlier) to match the inconvenient Sears Craftsman miter slots. Had to put the runners out the front and back. This is a pretty decent solution to the track issue although the result is pretty tight.

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