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Bosch Colt Router Table

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Blog entry by Dave Owen posted 04-13-2010 12:51 AM 18982 reads 19 times favorited 19 comments Add to Favorites Watch

This is a small router table I designed for a Bosch Colt trim router. I’ve used it a good bit and I believe it will be very useful for small routing jobs and for those times when I’d like to keep the Colt and my DeWalt table-mounted router set up for different cuts.
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The photo above shows the 17” x 25” table mounted on top supports of a knock-down shop table where it will most often be used. In the photo the table is pushed a little further back on the KD than normal so the top supports can be seen. When not in use, the table will be stored on an adjoining standard and bracket shelf system.

The miter slot location at the rear of the table rather than at the front is an experiment. I can still use a miter gauge from the left side of the table, just as a front slot can be used from the right side. This rear location leaves the front of the table flat and clear of obstructions – something I believe I’ll like when routing toys and other smaller pieces

The 1/4” Plexiglas table plate was drilled to receive P/C inserts rather than Bosch inserts.
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For use on the KD, I made the working height lower (39”) by letting the lower part of the router hang down into the space between the top supports. Because I also wanted to be able to use the router table on any flat surface, it was necessary to make a pair of removable legs for clearance of the router. The first photo below shows the legs – followed by a photo of the table with the legs in place. I used threaded brass inserts to secure the legs to the base, and I also put inserts in the bottom of the table top so the legs can be fastened just inside the drawers, as shown in the first photo above. With the legs mounted and the table on a 35” high surface, the top of the router table is 6” higher (45” above the floor). I was surprised that even at this height the table is very comfortable for routing.
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The three following pictures show the interior of the two drawers. One has a slot for the router wrench – holes for 12 to 15 bits – and one larger hole for bearings. The other has two layers for P/C inserts – the bottom layer is for standard bushings – and the top, lift-out, layer is for template guides. Drawer pulls were made from 1/4” screws, nylon spacers, and hinged nylon screw caps. Magnets keep the drawers from accidentally opening, and stops keep them from being pulled out too far.
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The basic one-piece basic fence is made from hard maple left over from a workbench. The 1-3/8” ‘bit hole’ was drilled 2” deep, after which the edges were squared to provide a clear opening width of 1-1/4”. A 1-1/8” horizontal hole was drilled in the center of the back for a 1” vacuum hose. Holes were drilled in the ends of the fence for fence clamps to secure the fence to the table. These fence clamps are retained in their holes by an inserted pair of 3/8” rare-earth magnets. When needed for other purposes, the clamps are easily pulled free of the magnets.
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Close-up of the fence clamp.
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The photo below shows a pair of MDF auxiliary fences. These pieces can be used in several ways. Their main purpose is for adjusting the bit opening for edge bits, but by placing a thin piece of material (such as plastic laminate) behind the outfeed side of the fence, the router can be used as a mini-jointer. The auxiliary fences can also be pushed together to eliminate the gap when cutting a groove or dado.
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The bit guard is made of scrap pieces of maple and 1/4” Plexiglas. As the photos show, the guard adjusts both ‘in and out’ and ‘up and down’, allowing it to be used either with or without the auxiliary fences.
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The final photo below shows the rear of the fence and with the vacuum hose inserted.
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I’ll be happy to try to answer any questions I’ve failed to cover above.

-- Dave O.



19 comments so far

View bigike's profile

bigike

4048 posts in 2686 days


#1 posted 04-13-2010 12:55 AM

very neat idea!

-- Ike, Big Daddies Woodshop, http://www.icombadaniels@yahoo.com

View John Gray's profile

John Gray

2370 posts in 3283 days


#2 posted 04-13-2010 12:58 AM

COOL!

-- Only the Shadow knows....................

View reggiek's profile

reggiek

2240 posts in 2667 days


#3 posted 04-13-2010 01:09 AM

I love innovation…very cool…I have a colt I bought to do some trim work in tight places but ended up using my wecheer wood carver in a dremel router base…couldn’t beat the flexible shaft and micro size. Now I’ve been wondering what to do with the colt (have been considering sell/trade for something more useful)...and your idea has a lot of merit…might be a nice way to rescue the colt from the shelf.

-- Woodworking.....My small slice of heaven!

View Dave Price's profile

Dave Price

90 posts in 2372 days


#4 posted 04-13-2010 02:59 AM

that is great

-- Dave Price , Roswell New Mexico

View davidroberts's profile

davidroberts

1023 posts in 2883 days


#5 posted 04-13-2010 03:18 AM

ok, now i’m impressed. big idea for a small tool. you just doubled it’s usefulness.

-- God is great, wood is good. Let us thank Him for wood......and old hand tools.

View rickf16's profile

rickf16

386 posts in 2978 days


#6 posted 04-13-2010 03:22 AM

Dave, That is a really nice table. Great idea for this router. I have the Colt and use it more than I thought I would. How much $$’s do you have in it and do you have any plans on paper?

-- Rick

View cutmantom's profile

cutmantom

387 posts in 2432 days


#7 posted 04-13-2010 03:59 AM

great use of those clamps

View ND2ELK's profile

ND2ELK

13495 posts in 3171 days


#8 posted 04-13-2010 04:28 AM

Hi Dave

Another great idea and informative blog as always. Thanks for sharing.

God Bless
tom

-- Mc Bridge Cabinets, Iowa

View owenusa's profile

owenusa

13 posts in 2493 days


#9 posted 04-13-2010 05:17 AM

Appa, another great project, you need to slow down, I’m 45 years younger and I can’t keep up with you. It looks like this will fit in the back of my car, can I come pick it up this weekend.

View 559dustdesigns's profile

559dustdesigns

633 posts in 2565 days


#10 posted 04-13-2010 09:26 AM

Well done, Thanks for showing us this project.

-- Aaron - central California "If you haven't got the time to do it right, when will you find the time to do it over?"

View N735AV's profile

N735AV

1 post in 1405 days


#11 posted 11-25-2012 11:49 PM

Dave, Very nice project. I’m new to all of this and wasn’t sure what the following meant: The 1/4” Plexiglas table plate was drilled to receive P/C inserts rather than Bosch inserts.

Would appreciate clarification,

Kim

-- Kim

View kaneohe's profile

kaneohe

4 posts in 130 days


#12 posted 05-23-2016 10:27 PM

What material did you use for the top surface of the table? I’m planning my own version of this table and I’m not sure if I should go with melamine, MDF, or a laminated surface.

View Dave Owen's profile

Dave Owen

251 posts in 2471 days


#13 posted 05-24-2016 01:13 AM

Hi Kaneohe – My top is white plastic laminate on MDF, with edge banding of about 3/8” hardwood. The laminate has held up beautifully. It allows wood to slide smoothly, and the white color provides a good contrast with both dark and light woods. If I were starting over again, I’d make the same choice. Good luck!

-- Dave O.

View kaneohe's profile

kaneohe

4 posts in 130 days


#14 posted 05-24-2016 02:48 AM

Dave, Is there any chance you could take a picture of the under side of the table so I can see what that looks like? I can sort of fill in the gaps with what I think it might look like but it would be nice to have an actual picture of it. I’m planning to use a slightly different design that will take advantage of a standard blank base plate so if I need to I can support a full-sized router for simple stuff and hoping the table doesn’t jitter too much. I’m thinking it will have to be a fair bit wider to accept the standard-sized base plate but that wider footprint should also help with stability.

View Dave Owen's profile

Dave Owen

251 posts in 2471 days


#15 posted 05-24-2016 02:22 PM

Hi again Kaneohe – In response to your request below is a ‘not-so-good’ photo of the bottom of the table-top. Notice that the top consists of two 3/4” layers of MDF. The clear left-to-right dimension is 12”, so I could easily have used the Rousseau router base insert that I keep mounted in the extended end of my table-saw.(actually, the ends of the Rousseau base could just as well have extended partially over the drawer units anyway). I’m very glad I decided on my shop-made base, though – for several reasons. One is that the roughly 5” x 5” plexiglass base I made allows me to lift the router and base through the top – flip it over – use it as a hand-held router – then set it back in place, all without changing bases. Another is that on this small table, by centering the router, I can use the fence on either front or back – while still leaving a good clear work surface. This small router has been so useful, that I rarely use my larger router anyway. Routers run pretty smooth, so I don’t get even a hint of vibration whether mounted to my KD table – or set on its auxilliary legs on a table top – and I don’t think I would even if my larger router were mounted in it. Again – good luck.

-- Dave O.

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