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Works for me #3: Mounting Pegboard

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Blog entry by Dave Owen posted 02-17-2010 08:00 PM 7764 reads 2 times favorited 12 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 2: One-hand Dust Gate Part 3 of Works for me series Part 4: Horizontal Pipe Clamp Rack »

This should prove beyond all doubt that at least one retiree (this one) has more time than sense.

I’ve always enjoyed having most of my tools on pegboards where I could find them. I used to find it annoying, though, when the ‘hole’ I wanted to use for a ‘hook’ was blocked by mounting strips. I tried using spacing washers made for pegboard mounting, but they didn’t make the board stiff enough and it was a pain in the neck to align them with studs. That led me to come up with the following configuration for mounting strips.

First I cut the 3/4” x 1-1/2” strips with a dado blade as shown. Then I locate the studs and use that spacing to fasten the strips vertically to the back of the pegboard using round-head screws between the pegboard holes as shown below. Then I use square drive trim screws (through the pegboard holes) and the ‘U-shaped’ slot to fasten the assembly to the studs. (Since strips can be used as shown or reversed, the U-shaped slot can always be over a stud on one side of the other of the round head screw.)

See! I told you – more time than sense! But at least now every single hole in the board will accept a hook, and that means in a 4’ x 8’ board I’ve re-claimed almost 400 holes. Sure, I’ve wasted a little time – but what the heck, I’m retired.

-- Dave O.



12 comments so far

View bigfish_95008's profile

bigfish_95008

250 posts in 1760 days


#1 posted 02-17-2010 08:33 PM

What a great solution. Now I just need to get hooks that don’t lift out every time I reach for a tool.

-- bigfish "I am always doing what I cannot do yet, in order to learn how to do it." Vincent Van Gogh

View jockmike2's profile

jockmike2

10635 posts in 2904 days


#2 posted 02-17-2010 08:44 PM

Great idea, maybe I can reclaim some of my holes. Why do we have to get old to get smart?

-- (You just have to please the man in the Mirror) Mike from Michigan -

View Chase's profile

Chase

448 posts in 1683 days


#3 posted 02-17-2010 09:01 PM

Great, now i have to take my current pegboard down and completely redo it. Thanks for the genius idea!

-Chase

-- Every neighborhood has an eccentric neighbor. I wondered for years "who was ours?" Then I realized it was me.

View Jim Bertelson's profile

Jim Bertelson

3664 posts in 1821 days


#4 posted 02-17-2010 09:41 PM

bigfish
I saw an article somewhere and it demonstated making wooden tool holders, and attaching the wooden pieces to the pegboard with L bolts screwed into the wood. He claimed these never came out of the pegboard. I haven’t tried it but I am going to.

I like pegboard, but I like the idea of making my own tool holders to go on the pegboard even better.

Dave
Nice idea for saving pegboard holes…..........

-- Jim, Anchorage Alaska

View dbhost's profile

dbhost

5385 posts in 1889 days


#5 posted 02-17-2010 09:52 PM

Nice idea….

-- My workshop blog can be found at http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com

View HallTree's profile

HallTree

5661 posts in 2424 days


#6 posted 02-17-2010 10:16 PM

Good idea. Also, buy a package of those little plastic strips to keep the peg board hooks from coming out with the tool when you reach for it.

-- "Hold on to instruction, do not let it go; guard it well, for it is your life" Solomon

View Dave Owen's profile

Dave Owen

234 posts in 1731 days


#7 posted 02-17-2010 10:49 PM

I’m glad this idea appeals to several of you. I came up with it a number of years ago, and have used it ever since. It sounds like a lot of trouble, but it’s really not. I keep a short cut off piece (the pictured one) for setting up my blades the next time I need some.

Jim – I think I saw the same article about shop—made hooks, and made a couple to test. They work fine, but it’s important to run either a small roundover or chamfer along the top inside edge in order for the finished hook to sit snugly against the pegboard. Another thing about those I made was that I wanted a sturdy hook and the only larger-diameter ‘L-hooks’ I found were too long on the end that goes behind the pegboard. I just whacked those off with a Dremel tool.

My favorite hooks (although a bit expensive), are called Talon hooks (http://www.talonhooks.com/). Being plastic, they don’t damage tools, they’re sturdy, and they stay in place without any additional parts. They come with a ‘locking screw’ that I normally don’t use – since backing them out for future changes is pretty iffy and having spread the lock hook, it makes removal of the hook body more difficult. Even without the screw problem, getting the locking hook out of the pegboard can be a little tough occasionally, but I haven’t found it to be a major problem.

I’ve also used the little plastic retainer strips mentioned by Ron. I don’t like them nearly as well as the Talons, but they do work – and when combined with metal hooks they are certainly less expensive.

-- Dave O.

View Greg..the Cajun  Box Sculptor's profile

Greg..the Cajun Box Sculptor

5110 posts in 1965 days


#8 posted 02-18-2010 12:48 AM

Great idea Dave. I need to now rework my pegboards. Thanks for the info about the Talon hooks also. I remember seeing something about the Talon hook a good while back but I couldn’t remember what they were called. I am going to go to their website and order some. I have been using those standard metal pegboard hooks with the plastic clips. I don’t particularly like them.
I switched my pegboard a while back to the heavy duty plactic pegboard and I like it very much. The Talon hooks would be a good match with this.
As far as your statement about some thinking it might be a lot of trouble…well I believe that anything I do in my workshop is only “fun” and never could be considered a lot of trouble.

-- If retiring is having the time to be able to do what you enjoy then I have always been retired.

View Jim Bertelson's profile

Jim Bertelson

3664 posts in 1821 days


#9 posted 02-18-2010 02:27 AM

Dave

You belong in Alaska. I just made a couple of posts to dbHost’s blog item http://lumberjocks.com/dbhost/blog/13796 where my last statement was:

..........it’s the Alaskan Duct Tape and bailing wire mentality, fused with the Alaskan ‘more firepower is better’ mentality…..(-:

You’d fit right in up here.

Seriously, I plan to redo all the cabinets in my shop, think I alluded to that before, and peg board will be used in the cabinets, my current thinking. I like to plan for change and versatility. So I am going to approach this issue with some energy, and maybe we can converse along the way. I want a generally applicable solution to the pegboard limitations that is robust (pegs don’t come out when you remove a tool, and I am not limited by commercially available pegboard hook options), and yet maintains the versatility inherent in the peg board system. I am thinking that shop made pegboard appliances, preferably from wood, with a dependable pegboard attachment system is the answer. I was hoping that the L bolt was the answer. It may be, but you have made it suspect.

So I will work on it, not soon most likely, but eventually.

Thanks again for sharing your wisdom and experience…

Alasaka Jim

-- Jim, Anchorage Alaska

View ND2ELK's profile

ND2ELK

13495 posts in 2431 days


#10 posted 02-18-2010 03:30 AM

Hi Dave

I have my peg boards up but have not hung any tools on them yet. At least I got part of it right. I bought talonhooks to use on my peg boards but no dodoed strips. Good thing I am retired so I have time to redo them. Thanks for the tip.

God Bless
tom

-- Mc Bridge Cabinets, Iowa

View stefang's profile

stefang

13053 posts in 1991 days


#11 posted 02-18-2010 09:30 PM

A great idea Dave. It’s worth taking the time to solve peevish problems, especially for things used on a daily basis.

-- Mike, an American living in Norway.

View Dave Owen's profile

Dave Owen

234 posts in 1731 days


#12 posted 02-19-2010 04:31 AM

Before I go ‘off the charts’ I wanted to thank those who took the time to read this blog. I hope any of you who try this idea will find it as useful as I have. One last thing about the groove locations. It’s obvious that the center to center spacing of the grooves (or dados) must match the center to center spacing of the holes in the board. What might not be quite as obvious is that the centerline of the inside (U-shaped) slot should be the same distance from the uncut edge of the wood strip as the distance from the edge of the pegboard to the centerline of the first row of holes.

-- Dave O.

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