How to make a 22.5 degree cut.

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Blog entry by Kjuly posted 10-08-2009 10:08 PM 7620 reads 0 times favorited 0 comments Add to Favorites Watch

I posted this on my blog with pictures and wanted to share with LJ. The following is a copy of the text.
There are pictures of the table under my projects.

This post is in response to a question I received on the woodworking site The Wood Whisperer

The question/challenge is how to cut the 22.5 degree angle for the top section of the table and have all eight pieces fit together.

There are two factors that influence how well the joint will fit. The first, and most obvious, is the angle cut. The second is the size of the piece. Each section must be the exact same size, any difference in the length or width will effect the quality of the joint.

Here’s a outline covering how I cut the eight sections using a dedicated cross cut sled that is permanently set to a 22.5 degree angle.

Following these steps will give you eight pieces the same width and length with the 22.5 degree angle cut on each end. Before I make any cuts, I check my table saw and jointer to make sure they both are cutting properly. If either machine in not cutting square, it will affect the quality of the joint.

  • Plane the pieces to their finished thickness. 1″
  • Joint one edge.
  • Rip to finished width.
  • Cross cut to length plus 1″
  • Setting the jointed edge against the side stop, cut the angle on one end of all eight pieces.
  • Install a stop on the crosscut sled that is set to the finished length of the board.
  • Again using the jointed side against the stop and the end firmly seated against the end stop, cut the second angle on each piece.

I use a spline and pocket screws to join the sections together and pin them for a little added insurance. The sections are assembled in pairs, paying close attention to lining up the outside corners.

After the glue has set, I attache the two sections together to give me half of a table and then assemble the two halves.

A few notes:

Using splines allows me to focus on lining up the corners while holding the surfaces flush. I pin the spline and then add the pocket screws.

As noted above, the boards are 1″ thick so I can use longer pocket screws that can go through the spline and not penetrate the opposite surface.

-- Keith, Charlotte, MI

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