Laguna NLX31 #1: Problem with Motors

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Blog entry by Kim posted 09-03-2013 08:09 AM 1870 reads 0 times favorited 7 comments Add to Favorites Watch
no previous part Part 1 of Laguna NLX31 series no next part

I have a Laguna NLX31 combination machine with table saw, jointer/planer, and shaper.
The table saw motor works great but the jointer and shaper motors are running slowly maybe something like half speed.

I have had the motor and capacitors checked, the 40uF and a 50uF capacitors were within uF tolerance, but I have since replaced with with new. That did not fix the problem. The table saw starts even faster now, but the same problem exists with the other two motors.

I unhooked the belts from the jointer and started the motors a few times and for a little while it would start up at apparent full speed, I shut if off and started it again and its at half speed. That cyclic pattern repeated over 4-5 cycles before turning the motor on would only produce half speed. I checked the speed by running 2” oak over the planner and over a shapper flush cut bit. Both motors are clearly slow and lacking in power. The belts and bearings all seem fine.

All the motors are 3hp CEG brand. There is a main shutoff switch, a table saw and two other push button kill switches, a spring loaded start switch, and a tool (motor) selector switch.

Anyone have a clew to what might still be going on?

—Kim, Corvallis Oregon

-- Kim, Corvallis Oregon

7 comments so far

View ScottKaye's profile


620 posts in 1918 days

#1 posted 09-03-2013 10:40 AM

have you tried calling Laguna for help. I hear their customer service people are very good at this sort of thing. 1-800-332-4094

-- "Nothing happens until you build it"

View Don Butler's profile

Don Butler

1092 posts in 3360 days

#2 posted 09-03-2013 10:43 AM

One thing that can happen with motors with a start speed switch is that if the tool (for non-electrical reasons) fails to get up to running speed, the switch never actuates. That will result in the motor running only at start speed.

It could be a problem with something rubbing or bad bearings, perhaps?


-- No trees were damaged in posting this message, but thousands of electrons were seriously inconvenienced.

View Loren's profile


10260 posts in 3613 days

#3 posted 09-03-2013 04:04 PM

Try bypassing the switches individually and wiring each motor
to a plug. This will tell you if it’s something with the motors
or with the other electricals.

Those planers have a reverse switch to run the mortiser. I
had a XSD310 for awhile. As I recall the electrical components
inside were pretty complicated. I don’t have a clue how
it would be wired to the shaper, but consider that there
are multiple panic buttons that stop everything, it’s conceivable
one wiring problem is messing up the whole machine.

Also, check the panic buttons to make sure they are
properly reset for operation.

It could be you aren’t getting 220v power to the underpowered
motors. 220v motors can be started at 110v but they
run poorly under load at that voltage.

View Bogeyguy's profile


548 posts in 2033 days

#4 posted 09-04-2013 12:21 AM

If your power source is 3 phase you may have lost a leg of the phases.

-- Art, Pittsburgh.

View Kim's profile


7 posts in 1695 days

#5 posted 09-06-2013 07:46 PM

Laguna Tools Help has been very good. I realized that if I were to trace all 50 wires and send that information to them, it help things greatly and it is: One kill switch was disconnected which can cause problems. The jointer motor is only humming now. They sent my wiring table to the manufacturer and Im hoping they have a solution for me soon. I appreciate all your thoughtful comments.

-- Kim, Corvallis Oregon

View Kim's profile


7 posts in 1695 days

#6 posted 09-09-2013 02:27 AM

I have talking with Laguna and got some good help. They asked me to take pictures of the power bar and when I tried to do that I realized this was going to be the slow way of finding what was probably a mis-wiring problem. So I traced al 50+ wires to their connections and put that in a spreadsheet table and sent that to them. They noticed the jointer kill switch wasn’t attached. Plus it’s not obvious on the selector switch which wires correspond to which position but, in the table a pattern could be seen.

I rewired the jointer as the shaper was wired and wired back in the jointer kill switch which I had accidentally pulled out of the circuit. When I tried the machine, the reverse jointer/horizontal boring machine direction worked fine but the jointer only buzzed. I pondered that for a while and finally switch a black and brown wire position. BINGO!
It’s all working again. I dont know how the jointer got wired in that way, perhaps I was sleepwalking into my shop…

-- Kim, Corvallis Oregon

View Kim's profile


7 posts in 1695 days

#7 posted 09-10-2013 03:34 PM

Now that it up and running, I want to improve the dust collection for the tablesaw. It takes a 4-5’ twisting and turning pathway around support structure for the saw framework before existing through the back. There is a position behind the power panel on the front right of the saw that would provide a direct path for a dust collection hose. I have measured the various positions of the table saw blade dust port and find it moves 12 to 23” during its travels. A piece of corrugated plastic pipe I have will span that distance, being fully compressed at 12” and pretty fully stretched at 23”. 23” is the 45 degree position which I don’t often use. A dust collection hose would have to come out a new 4-5” hole I create in the 1/4” thick steel (not cast iron) saw enclosure.

A couple of questions: Has anyone out there done this kind of metal piercing before? What methods would you recommend? Is there a method that does’t require a torch such as a angle grinder, drill big, mountable metal drill, etc?

Im thinking of using a metal blast gate or coupling to dress up that hole, any suggestiuon on what type of use?

Also, has anyone tried using a moving dust collector hose through a hole like this? Seems like it would require about a 5” smooth slot and may be catch easily anyway.

Lastly I don’t think the cut hole has to be round. I’d appreciate any ideas you might have about this topic.

-- Kim, Corvallis Oregon

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