Spiral End Mallet #1: The Lay-Out

Thanks for your interest in my new Spiral-End Mallet, based on the Lazy Larry Spiral Cheese Boards, by degoose. Obviously with the small size of the pieces, the band saw jig Larry uses wouldn’t work. This is how I adapted his GREAT idea for something a little different.

The first step is to make the medallion that is inlayed in the end of the mallet. (Yes it is inlayed—-do you think I’m totally nuts?) If you are looking for a fast, easy project, this may not be it, but the end result is well worth the effort. As you see from jigs I’ve posted, I usually don’t take the easy way out. —-But it sure is FUN.

HERE WE GO!

First, do the math—-or maybe a little Geometry. You need to establish the size you want the medallion, which obviously is related to the diameter of the end of your mallet. Mine is 2 7/8”. My medallion finished out at
2 1/8”, including the band around the outside. The radius you need for this size is 1”. Set your compass on that measurement.—-Note—You certainly may change that to fit your needs, especially if you do another application, like coasters for instance. The principal remains the same, you just change lay-out sizes and create router jigs to accomodate. Draw a circle on any scrap piece.

Now place a mark at any point around that circle and draw an arc from that point through the center of the circle you drew.

OK are you still with me. It’s really not that complicated is it. Now place your center point where you crossed the outside of the circle, and do it again untill you have this. Again, it’s the same radius—You never change your compass.

Now you can start actually building something. The Router jigs began with a base clamped to th router table top. I drilled holes to accept the pivot bolt on the cicle jigs that clamp the workpiece.—You’ll see! I drilled a series of holes on 1” increments to use for other diameter spirals later. I had some plastic tubing that is pressed in the holes. It operates smoother, and will last much longer. Find some that will accept your pivot bolts. I used 1/4” bolts. You want it snug. Drill the holes the OD of the tubing, and glue it in—-Super Glue is fine. Yeah I know, mine’s sloppy. I get in a hurry too sometimes. The slot is for the spiral bit. You will need it to adjust things later, especially if you do a larger diameter later. The bottom of this base has a runner mounted that fits the miter slot. If you don’t have one, use something to hang over the edge to keep everthing lined up. It’s important later.

Now, the clamping jigs. There are two, One for the inside and outside radius. They are 1/2” Baltic Birch Plywood. Dimensions are not important here. Drill a 1/4” hole for the pivot bolt. Take a bolt and cut off the theads, so that only the shoulder remains. The length is enough to protrude from the bottom about 3/8”. I countersunk the bolt head and epoxied into the jig from the top. Next place the bolt into the base. With the router bit below the table start your router, and raise up through the jig. The pivot hole must be exactly the distance from the bit as the radius you have already established. Remember the lay-out step. After plunging the bit, move the top jig in a circle on the pivot bolt. Only go about halfway around (You don’t want to cut a hole in your jig now—do you?)



That’s it for now. I’ve typed way past my limit. Stay tuned for Part 2, coming soon. I’ll show you how to make the clamps. Critical if you want to keep your fingers—-Remember how small these pieces are.

-- Kent Shepherd * The goal is-----More Tools!