Blondie's Bridal Chest #3: Cutting the 45's and Gluing the Legs Together.

The only thing that would worry me about the contact cement is the instant bonding. If you are going to apply over sized pieces and trim them, then it shouldn’t be a problem but if you are going to try to butt two pieces together, you may only get one shot. I read someplace that TiteBond makes a “hide” glue that has a pretty long setup time.

Those 45° angles came out perfect!!

-- Lew- Time traveler. Purveyor of the world's finest custom rolling pins!

Those legs look like they are one piece! This is going to be another masterpiece. I’m with lew in that contact cement gives you no “wiggle room”.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

Looks like a good start Ken,the corners look nice .
As to the veneer I agree with what has been said and would check out SHIPWRIGHTS page,he does hammer veneering with hide glue ,I am playing around with PVA glue and a household iron on my current project and it also works and gives me time to shift the veneer around .

-- Kiefer 松

Ken, The problem with using contact cement with veneers is that any joints will eventually open up. The contact cement moves. Titebond III, Urea Resin glues, and epoxies are usually recommended. Titebond can also open at the seams. Only Urea and epoxies prevent joints from opening.

-- Oldworld, Fair Oaks, Ca

Hi Ken – Very nice work so far. Contact cement is often used on paperback or double ply veneer sheet material. In my vacuum press I use Unibond veneering glue, very good stuff. If you don’t want to invest in that, then I would go with what John is saying about the titebond 3 or urea glue, which if I remember right is like Weldwood plastic resin glue. It’s a powder that you mix with water, good stuff, I think I might recommend that over titebond. You will have to press this in clamps or vacuum system, I think you have a vacuum system don’t you? Best of luck, were all waiting to see what’s next.

-- Dan Wiggins

Sound like you got some good advice Ken. The miters look perfect. Well done.

-- Mike, American in Norway

I would say to leave contact cement for plastic laminate. But now days when I have to do some Formica style laminate, I use Titebond and vacuum – it is a lot less hectic.

The corners look perfect. Don’t you just love it when things work out that well?
Good job.

Steve

-- -- I'm no rocket surgeon

Nice looking miters Ken.
The final will be a real prize.

-- If you want it and it's within reason... It's on it's way!

Thx everyone, great advice and I think I’ll use the hide glue for veneer with the press. I have used hide glue before but was curious about the contact cement. I trust all of your advice and you have never steered me wrong is why I asked. The last thing I want is the seams coming apart on the book matched panels. Off too Austins Hardwoods for some veneer glue Monday. That could be trouble LOL

Thx again.

-- Ken, "Everyday above ground is a good day!"

HI Ken,

Another reason not to use contact cement is the glue expands the veneer. Several days after being glued, the flexible nature of the adhesive will allow the veneer to shrink, causing it to crack.

Also, many solvents in finishing materials can affect the bond.

Legs look good.

Lee

-- by Lee A. Jesberger http://www.prowoodworkingtips.com http://www.ezee-feed.com

Thx Lee and everyone. I went and purchased veneer glue and will not be using Contact Cement. Thx for everyone great advice and hep! Gave me an excuse to go to Austins Hardwoods store amazing place for woodworkers to go.

-- Ken, "Everyday above ground is a good day!"