Blondie's Bridal Chest #3: Cutting the 45's and Gluing the Legs Together.

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Blog entry by Ken90712 posted 03-03-2013 01:43 AM 2281 reads 0 times favorited 11 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 2: Mortise and Tenon's done, Top dry fitted. Part 3 of Blondie's Bridal Chest series Part 4: Starting the Veneering for the 11 Panels. »

Saturday mornings is usually Blondie’s day to clean the house top to bottom. With that said, her house is spotless and rarely needs cleaning unless I’ve been home alone… LOL However, I was instructed to play outside for a few hours to not get in the way.

Off to the Wood-shop I go, Yea! Today I needed to cut the 8 legs 45* miters and then glue them together. I made the cuts just short or the required line on all 8 then re-cut them using a skim cut to hit the line perfectly. I then took a sanding block insuring the miters were perfectly smooth for glue up. I laid packing tape down and then laid the parts edge to edge on the tape. I used Titebond III, being its kinda brown and would blend in more with the wood. I folded one piece over with the tape holding them together and used blue painters tape to tighten the joints.

After the glue set for cpl hours I removed all the table and carefully used a plastic scraper to remove the glue and then Hand sand the corners. I hit it lightly with 120 grit on my sander removing the pencil marks. Tomorrow I will square up the ends on the top and bottom and sand the insides as well. I didn’t want to cut it on the saw until the glue is fully cured. The corner joints came out really nice and tight after sanding.

A fellow woodworker told me he has always done veneering with contact cement instead of glue. I did an experiment with a small piece today to see how it worked. I worked well with he exception it wanted to curl up while the glue was drying to become tacky before joining it to the substrate. It rolled out nicely, with no bleed through or bubbles. I did see some hairline cracks that if gluing might not be there.

What do you guys think?

-- Ken, "Everyday above ground is a good day!"

11 comments so far

View lew's profile (online now)


12102 posts in 3784 days

#1 posted 03-03-2013 02:01 AM

The only thing that would worry me about the contact cement is the instant bonding. If you are going to apply over sized pieces and trim them, then it shouldn’t be a problem but if you are going to try to butt two pieces together, you may only get one shot. I read someplace that TiteBond makes a “hide” glue that has a pretty long setup time.

Those 45° angles came out perfect!!

-- Lew- Time traveler. Purveyor of the Universe's finest custom rolling pins.

View gfadvm's profile


14940 posts in 2719 days

#2 posted 03-03-2013 02:27 AM

Those legs look like they are one piece! This is going to be another masterpiece. I’m with lew in that contact cement gives you no “wiggle room”.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

View kiefer's profile


5619 posts in 2696 days

#3 posted 03-03-2013 03:24 AM

Looks like a good start Ken,the corners look nice .
As to the veneer I agree with what has been said and would check out SHIPWRIGHTS page,he does hammer veneering with hide glue ,I am playing around with PVA glue and a household iron on my current project and it also works and gives me time to shift the veneer around .

-- Kiefer

View John Ormsby's profile

John Ormsby

1288 posts in 3766 days

#4 posted 03-03-2013 03:24 AM

Ken, The problem with using contact cement with veneers is that any joints will eventually open up. The contact cement moves. Titebond III, Urea Resin glues, and epoxies are usually recommended. Titebond can also open at the seams. Only Urea and epoxies prevent joints from opening.

-- Oldworld, Fair Oaks, Ca

View savannah505's profile


1813 posts in 3615 days

#5 posted 03-03-2013 03:43 AM

Hi Ken – Very nice work so far. Contact cement is often used on paperback or double ply veneer sheet material. In my vacuum press I use Unibond veneering glue, very good stuff. If you don’t want to invest in that, then I would go with what John is saying about the titebond 3 or urea glue, which if I remember right is like Weldwood plastic resin glue. It’s a powder that you mix with water, good stuff, I think I might recommend that over titebond. You will have to press this in clamps or vacuum system, I think you have a vacuum system don’t you? Best of luck, were all waiting to see what’s next.

-- Dan Wiggins

View stefang's profile


15881 posts in 3363 days

#6 posted 03-03-2013 10:41 AM

Sound like you got some good advice Ken. The miters look perfect. Well done.

-- Mike, an American living in Norway.

View SPalm's profile


5320 posts in 3911 days

#7 posted 03-03-2013 11:52 AM

I would say to leave contact cement for plastic laminate. But now days when I have to do some Formica style laminate, I use Titebond and vacuum – it is a lot less hectic.

The corners look perfect. Don’t you just love it when things work out that well?
Good job.


-- -- I'm no rocket surgeon

View plantek's profile


312 posts in 2828 days

#8 posted 03-03-2013 02:10 PM

Nice looking miters Ken.
The final will be a real prize.

-- If you want it and it's within reason... It's on it's way!

View Ken90712's profile


17563 posts in 3218 days

#9 posted 03-03-2013 11:24 PM

Thx everyone, great advice and I think I’ll use the hide glue for veneer with the press. I have used hide glue before but was curious about the contact cement. I trust all of your advice and you have never steered me wrong is why I asked. The last thing I want is the seams coming apart on the book matched panels. Off too Austins Hardwoods for some veneer glue Monday. That could be trouble LOL

Thx again.

-- Ken, "Everyday above ground is a good day!"

View Lee A. Jesberger's profile

Lee A. Jesberger

6859 posts in 4008 days

#10 posted 03-05-2013 01:47 PM

HI Ken,

Another reason not to use contact cement is the glue expands the veneer. Several days after being glued, the flexible nature of the adhesive will allow the veneer to shrink, causing it to crack.

Also, many solvents in finishing materials can affect the bond.

Legs look good.


-- by Lee A. Jesberger

View Ken90712's profile


17563 posts in 3218 days

#11 posted 03-06-2013 09:49 AM

Thx Lee and everyone. I went and purchased veneer glue and will not be using Contact Cement. Thx for everyone great advice and hep! Gave me an excuse to go to Austins Hardwoods store amazing place for woodworkers to go.

-- Ken, "Everyday above ground is a good day!"

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