LumberJocks

Restoration of radial arm saw - Montogomery Wards TCP 2610E

  • Advertise with us
Blog entry by KTNC posted 05-10-2018 03:58 AM 1065 reads 0 times favorited 3 comments Add to Favorites Watch

4/17/2018

Purchased for $20 – craigslist

I already have one fully functional Craftsman radial arm saw and a DeWalt that I plan to restore later. Why buy this Montgomery Wards saw? I’ve been wanting one ever since I found out it has an extra deep cut depth and it has a 20,000 RPM spindle.

I brought it home in the Subaru Outback. I had to remove the saw from the stand and disassemble the stand to get it to fit. The seller helped me get it into the car.

It’s missing the anti-kickback device and the rubber elbow that goes on the guard. The vertical movement is frozen. The bevel motion is frozen. The arm does rotate on the column and the saw assembly does slide back and forth along the arm. The motion that allows the saw to rotate from crosscut to rip is OK. The plug is missing the ground pin.

After I got it home and started reassembling the stand, I realized it was damaged and flimsy so I won’t use the stand. The table it came with is worthless. There were no arbor wrenches.

The wood on the old table was soaking wet. I think they had this sitting outside in the rain recently. It looks too rust-free to have been out there for a long time.

Search for a router adapter part 84-2613. The shaft is 15/16 inch diameter – 20 thread per inch. There was a post on lumberjocks saying that a porter cable collet would work. I spoke with a customer service rep at Porter Cable and he said they don’t have anything that would work. He referred me to Delta as he thought they took over the Powr Kraft line. The Delta service rep said no they don’t have any parts either.

4/27/2018

I found a open end 15/16 inch wrench that was 1/8 inch thick at Habitat Restore. It bent when I tried to remove the saw blade. I’ve ordered a piece of 3/16 inch thick steel from Amazon and will make a wrench from that.

I checked the cut depth and was happy to see that it’s more than 3 1/2”. That means I’ll be able to cut a 4×4 in one go. My craftsman’s capacity is about 2 1/4”.

5/2/2018

I made a wrench from the 3/16 inch thick steel bar. I used a drill and hacksaw to remove most of the material. Finished with a file. I also had to use a grinder to reduce the thickness slightly near the opening. It worked great: I got the saw blade off.

I finished making a wooden base for the stand and installed the saw onto the stand. After that, I diassembled it into all it’s major components.

I installed a new 3 prong plug and ran the motor. It works but makes an unpleasant noise. That might just be how it sounds since it runs at 20,000 RPM and has hears to reduce the speed to 3450.

5/9/2018

On May 4, I tried to get the column and base separated. I used lots of PB Blaster and then used some pipe clamps to apply force. It did not work.

Based on what another Lumberjack experienced, I decided I need a press to apply more force. I took it to my auto mechanic and he put it in a 12 Ton press and it didn’t budge. The auto mechanic suggested I freeze it and then apply heat to the outside. I took it to a local tool sales/service shop and they only had a ten ton press. His advice was to order a new assembly and if that’s not possible then it’s junk. I bought a 20 Ton press from Harbor Freight and got it assembled today. By itself, even the 20 Ton press did not work.

The base is aluminum and the column is steel. Because Aluminum’s CTE is higher than steel, all I have to do is uniformly heat it rather than applying heat only to the base. The base will grow faster than the column and cause the parts to want to separate. I used my outdoor gas grill to heat it up. I then put the column (steel) end into a bucket of cold water. Back to the 20 Ton Press and it moved right away! I pushed it down as far as I could and then turned everything upside down and pushed the column all the way out. I preferred this method of heating because the base is painted and I didn’t want to scorch it with a torch. I think it’s also less likely to crack or for me to accidently cause a fire. Note that if I had followed the auto mechanic’s advice to freeze it, that would have backfired. Freezing the entire assembly would have caused it to get tighter because the aluminum base would shrink faster than the steel column.



3 comments so far

View TheNJ's profile

TheNJ

5 posts in 1200 days


#1 posted 05-10-2018 03:25 PM

I have the exact same model. Inherited it from my father in law, who got it from his dad. It is loud, probably the loudest tool in my shop, but it works great and I wouldn’t give it up. Only problem I’ve had is with the switch. I’ve had to rebuild the trigger at least twice, it’s just old tech and wears out over time. One day I might try to find a more modern solution.

View NormG's profile

NormG

6112 posts in 3003 days


#2 posted 05-11-2018 08:06 PM

Wow, great saw

-- Norman - I never never make a mistake, I just change the design.

View KTNC's profile

KTNC

64 posts in 255 days


#3 posted 05-17-2018 03:00 AM

5/16/2018

Today I worked on the motor and yoke assembly. The handle came apart pretty easily.

Freeing the wires from the switch proved difficult. I wanted to preserve the switch and not cut the wires. Now that I’ve done it the hard way, I suggest the following to anyone reading this.

The wires are not soldered, they are held in place by interference/friction. I didn’t try it, but I think you might be able to free the four wires by inserting a shaft (like a nail) into the hole adjacent to the hole the wire goes into.

what I did was to take apart the switch. The switch is held together by two #4 machine screws. They go all the way through the plastic housing and terminate in the metal part on the opposite side. The holes are tapped and the screws thread into those holes. Unfortunately, they would not back out. I think the assembly process involves some kind of damage to the threads once they are inserted – presumably to prevent them from backing out on their own. I used a file to remove the part that protruded through the surface and eventually got the screws out.

Since the switch was apart, I disassembled it and removed all the saw dust. I put it back together by using two 3/4 inch long #4 machine screws and two nuts. I put Lock tite on the threads.

I separated the yoke and the motor and removed the motor pivot. There appears to be no damage, just old grease and dirt. I think after it’s cleaned up and reassembled the bevel pivot will work fine.

Have your say...

You must be signed in to post the comments.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com