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Rebuilding a vintage Craftsman Table Saw 113.29920 #12: The saw has a new home / I hate jigsaws / Why I'm not an electrician...

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Blog entry by KTMM (Krunkthemadman) posted 11-30-2010 08:00 AM 3925 reads 3 times favorited 13 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 11: It's rebuilt, now it's time for the addons........ base and router cabinet Part 12 of Rebuilding a vintage Craftsman Table Saw 113.29920 series Part 13: After much delay and empty promises, it draws to an end. »

Well guys, after spending the days before and after Thanksgiving sick with a stomach bug, I decided I was going to get something done before going back to work Monday. So, after getting my strength back, I decided to go out to the shop and put the saw base together. Last weekend a buddy of mine came over to play the part of outfeed table and we progressed to get the pieces cut for the base of the saw. All in all, it’s a pretty simple box with a hole cut in the top so that sawdust can fall down into it. It is cut custom to the saw, and is held together using a bunch of pocket screws.

The only drawback I had assembling the saw base was cutting the hole in the top. I used the actual table saw to outline the hole on the base. Well, I decided it would best be cut out the hole using my jig-saw and not my sawzall. The sawzall may have been a better choice. I managed to butcher a hole into the top, and luckily, it wasn’t too much bigger than the bottom of the table saw. The jigsaw I have, was purchased when I first started woodworking. I found it on sale at about 25% of the original price in a BORG several years back. I was blown away by it’s Scrolling action, and powerful 6 amp motor and the price was right. The downright stupid things we do with money. The saw does scroll, pretty much wherever it wants to go, and it has enough power to destroy projects pretty quickly, so I guess it does what the package said. Enough about that, look at the unit before and after…....

With that done, it was time to start on all that wiring. I got a two way keyed switch along with two rocker switches to control the table saw and router. The two way switch will be used to switch power between the table saw and router switches, so that only one can be on at any given time. I selected rocker switches to use since they will work nicely with my knee operated mechanism to kill them both. The way I see it, I don’t want the power to be super easy to turn on, but SUPER easy to turn off. If you notice in the second picture I managed to cut the three holes for the power boxes, and I also managed to run the cords where they are needed. The problem is that I cut the holes too closely together, so that the covers won’t fit. Which is why I gave up for the night, took some pictures and went to bed. (Note the beer can on top of the saw extension, it had nothing to do with the boxes being too close together. It wasn’t opened until after I messed the switches up.) So, until next time, keep the saws a going, and the fingers intact and don’t drink and drill….....

-- Practice does not make perfect. Only perfect practice makes perfect. Vince Lombardi



13 comments so far

View William's profile

William

9222 posts in 1565 days


#1 posted 12-02-2010 09:22 PM

Are you able to just remove that piece of wood and recut the switch holes?

-- http://wddsrfinewoodworks.blogspot.com/

View Viking's profile

Viking

857 posts in 1918 days


#2 posted 12-02-2010 10:40 PM

You might look into a plastic three gang box, the type made for retrofit wiring. It may allow you to just cut out the wood between the present holes. Then you could cover with a single 3 gang switch plate.

If not, like William said, you can undo your pocket hole screws and replace that side of your cabinet. If you replace you may be able to cut holes with the cabinet piece horizontal in a bench scroll saw or build a quick template and cut the three holes with a spiral down cut bit in your router?

Good luck and don’t let a little set back like this slow you down! We look forward to seeing updates on your progress.

-- Rick Gustafson - Lost Creek Ranch - Colorado County, Texas

View Roz's profile

Roz

1661 posts in 2510 days


#3 posted 12-03-2010 01:28 AM

Making good progress. What brand is the fence and rail system you are using?

-- Terry Roswell, L.A. (Lower Alabama) "Life is what happens to you when you are making other plans."

View Howie's profile

Howie

2656 posts in 1646 days


#4 posted 12-03-2010 04:37 AM

Roz: that looks like Incra rails and fence.

KTMM: looks like you can replace the top board where you cut the holes with a new one????

-- Life is good.

View KTMM (Krunkthemadman)'s profile

KTMM (Krunkthemadman)

965 posts in 1917 days


#5 posted 12-03-2010 06:02 AM

Sorry guys, I’ve been swamped with work and after hours work. Here are some responses…..

William: Yes, and I plan to.

Viking: Great Idea, but I already got some better suited single boxes, more on that later…...

Roz: That is an Incra TS-LS 32. Possibly one of the best investments in my shop, just do a search for Incra….. The only drawback is the space it takes up (fence capacity x2)

Charliel: I couldn’t agree more. I know where I want the switches. Just wait and see what I’ve got in store for these…...

Howie: YOU WIN THE GRAND PRIZE. Bragging rights for being right on both counts.

I’m looking forward to a little shop time soon so that I can finish this and answer some questions comments with pictures….. Till’ then, take care everybody.

-- Practice does not make perfect. Only perfect practice makes perfect. Vince Lombardi

View OKCVintage's profile

OKCVintage

3 posts in 1382 days


#6 posted 02-13-2011 10:35 PM

KTMM: thanks for sharing your project with the rest of this community forum. I am a newbie to the forum and to woodworking, in general. I have recently bought a C-TS similar to yours and am in the process of tearing it down, removing dust, rust and the like. This one is in fairly good shape, but i have run into 2 probems: the crank handle on the arbor elevation worm gear won’t budge even after lots of “liquid wrench”. Do you have any advice on how to remove it? The second, my 3/4 HP motor badly needs the cleaning and inspection of the wire coils. How did you take apart the housing? Mine is very stubbornly stuck together; I used a rubber mallet to try to loosen the end plates, but I am very reluctant to use too much force. Which end of the motor should I try to pry off first; the brushing end of the shaft or the other? Thanks for the help and congratulations on the successful project you have posted here.

View KTMM (Krunkthemadman)'s profile

KTMM (Krunkthemadman)

965 posts in 1917 days


#7 posted 02-14-2011 03:16 AM

With the motor, check the yellow pages in your local area, normally there’s an electrical motor shop somewhere around. If so, take that puppy with you and see if the guys there can give you some advice. On the other hand, searspartsdirect has breakdown diagrams for pretty much every tool sears has ever sold, but you’ll need the sears part number. I don’t buy parts from Sears unless it’s the last resort. Also, the motor probably has aluminum wiring in it, it gets super fragile with age. I managed to break a bit of mine while I was rebuilding the motor. Another point is that the bells on the motor are aligned a certain way. MAKE SURE YOU MARK BOTH SIDES IN REFERENCE TO THE CENTER HOUSING BEFORE DISSASEMBLY. I had to use a cold chisel to persuade the end bells off my motor. As far as the stuck gear assembly goes, there is some stuff that’s better than liquid wrench, but I couldn’t tell you the name of it. My dad used to get it from an industrial supplier. I might even recommend a bit of evaporust, but you’ll have to put it in a spray bottle and continue to spray the area for a couple of days. (Unless you can soak it).

On another note, there is an update coming soon. I have the saw wired up and working, but I’m trying to finish the router table. Once it’s done, I’ll update everything, along with the little special surprise that I didn’t originally intend to do…....

-- Practice does not make perfect. Only perfect practice makes perfect. Vince Lombardi

View William's profile

William

9222 posts in 1565 days


#8 posted 02-14-2011 04:11 PM

You know I have done mechanic work most of my life. I have tried just about every penetrating oil out there. There used to be some stuff called snake oil that was sold by industrial suppliers. That stuff was great. If something wouldn’t move, spray it good, take a coffee break, and when you came back it would be just about disassembled for you. It disappeared though. I suspect governement regulation for it’s disappearance, maybe the EPA. These days, the best I have found is PB Blaster. It’s on the pricy side, but it’s worth keeping a can around. I keep a can hidden in my shop so that noone else grabs it and wastes it. It’s for my own use when needed.
I’ll be watching for the update. I like surprises.

-- http://wddsrfinewoodworks.blogspot.com/

View KTMM (Krunkthemadman)'s profile

KTMM (Krunkthemadman)

965 posts in 1917 days


#9 posted 05-12-2011 04:40 AM

Man, I feel like a real horses butt for not putting the final post on this. I’ll have it up this weekend, I promise….

-- Practice does not make perfect. Only perfect practice makes perfect. Vince Lombardi

View Grandpa's profile

Grandpa

3193 posts in 1399 days


#10 posted 05-12-2011 09:02 PM

OKCVintage,
there was a thread on here a couple of weeks ago. They referred you to a test that was on the internet. The best penetrating oil was home made. They used half power steering fluid and half acetone.
Check this out:
HTTP://STERKEL.ORG/PAPERS/VINTAGE/TESTINGPENETRATINGOILS.PDF
This is a lot of good information in my opinion.
hhhmmmm when I post this the word penetrating become italics and the underscores go away. When I go to edit they come back….go figure

View Brodimus_Max's profile

Brodimus_Max

2 posts in 429 days


#11 posted 09-24-2013 03:19 PM

I recently picked up one of these saws on craigslist. The guy I bought if from did a nice job cleaning it up. When I run the saw, however, it rattles a bit. I haven’t put on a link belt yet (next step), but I’m thinking that the arbor bearings may be bad. When I lift the motor to relieve some stress on the bearings, it sounds great. Did you have any issues with bearings? Also, on my saw, the weight of the motor (which is substantial) acts as the tension on the belt. Is this the same with yours? I saw a sears diagram that looked like some models had a fixed motor with a tensioner. Anyway, your saw looks great! I’m starting to build an outfeed table and cabinet around it much like yours.

View Grandpa's profile

Grandpa

3193 posts in 1399 days


#12 posted 09-25-2013 03:45 AM

I was working on my son-in-laws Craftsman saw. He is not mechanical so he took things apart and tossed them in multiple boxes. The little spring clips on the belt guard ARE $10 each!! ouch!! Since I didn’t see the saw before hand (not that it would have mattered) I had a lot of guess work to do and a lot of reading from the manual. I had a similar situation. I found a place on the motor mount and I think in the manual that showed a spring. The 2 halves of the motor mount hinge on the bottom side and the weight of the motor holds the bracket open to tension the belt. I did install a new belt (regular V-belt). I found a place with 2 small posts and had the idea to put a spring on these posts to hold the mount open. I think it helped with the bouncing and vibration. I think his manual showed this spring but I can’t remember. Anyway, I got the spring at ACE hardware.

View KTMM (Krunkthemadman)'s profile

KTMM (Krunkthemadman)

965 posts in 1917 days


#13 posted 09-25-2013 10:16 AM

I completely replaced all of the bearings on that table saw, it did use the motor weight to hold the belt in place.

William has it now, so any questions can be routed his direction.

-- Practice does not make perfect. Only perfect practice makes perfect. Vince Lombardi

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