Rebuilding a vintage Craftsman Table Saw 113.29920 #10: Long and tedious.......

  • Advertise with us
Blog entry by KTMM (Krunkthemadman) posted 11-04-2010 06:42 AM 3977 reads 2 times favorited 5 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 9: How the Incra screwed up my table saw..... Part 10 of Rebuilding a vintage Craftsman Table Saw 113.29920 series Part 11: It's rebuilt, now it's time for the addons........ base and router cabinet »

It’s been a while, too long in fact since updating. I don’t have pictures with this one, so I must go ahead and apologize for that. I want to take this time to thank ajosephg for his document on making an old saw do new tricks. His insight was much needed, and is the reason my saw is not scrap metal right now. Also, this helped me fix the wobble in my arbor…

I noticed three problems while working on the alignment of my saw. First, the blade alignment was never quite right no matter how much work I did or how I adjusted it. Second, with the belt off, I realized that the arbor shaft would move in and out by about 1/32 of an inch. And third, I noticed that the

So, I noticed the 0 degree alignment was off by about .002 and the 45 degree alignment was off by around 1/8 of an inch from the front of the blade to the back. To fix this, I installed three 3/8 washers between the front mount and the table top. This reduced the 45 degree alignment difference down to .005 of an inch with the rear being high now. I’ve not gotten around to it, but I’ll shim the back with an old beer can and that problem should be fixed. The problem that remained was with the 0 degree alignment. I pulled the whole saw apart and used a round file to open up the mounting holes for the saw cradle assembly. Like I said, read ajosephg’s file and it lists how to do all of this. I also took the time to file two flat spots on either side of the rear mount so that the PALS had a flat area to push against. (The PALS instructions say to do this). I mounted the front and rear, and alignment for the 0 degree was a cinch.

While I had the saw apart I decided to remedy the arbor problem. The way the bearings and arbor assembly mount on this saw there is supposed to be a spring washer between the saw side bearing and the inside of the mounting area. Also there is a plate / washer that mounts using three screws on the pulley side of the arbor. That plate / washer is concave shaped so that when it’s tightened down it pushes the bearing into it’s mount and keeps it there. I noticed that particular washer / plate was now convex and wasn’t applying any pressure to the bearing race as it should. So, I pulled the pulle off, flipped the washer / plate over and screwed it back in place. Problem solved right? Nope. as soon as I began to tap the pulley back onto the shaft, the recoil popped the washer / plate back out. Undeterred I did some creative bending and re-installed the piece. Problem solved…. I should note that I had the arbor shaft mounted in a vice so that I was not leaving the bearings to absorb the blows from the rubber mallet as I installed the pulley.

With two problems out of the way, I only had one more left. The source of my blade wobble, the inner mount for the blade. To fix it, I followed the advice here. The only difference is that I used an 80 grit truing stone for grinder wheels. It worked like a charm.

So at this point, I have to finish shimming the back mount and re-install the incra fence and I should be on my way to building that new saw workstation…...

-- Practice does not make perfect. Only perfect practice makes perfect. Vince Lombardi

5 comments so far

View William's profile


9949 posts in 2866 days

#1 posted 11-04-2010 02:32 PM

You’ve presented some very interesting reading in this post. I the links to all this, but after reading just some of this, I believe that all of it is beneficial for all table saws. My saw, for example, is fairly new and cuts great. However, after reading some of this, I think checking some of the very fine allignment on it may explain some of the little things I’ve just learned to live with in the past. I may even be able to actually get a glue line rip eventually. While my saw cuts great, I’ve always had to run a sander over the edges before gluing. Good isn’t always good enough if you know what I mean.


View ajosephg's profile


1880 posts in 3585 days

#2 posted 11-04-2010 03:07 PM

Good job! Appreciate your kind words, and posting my story, I was always going to post it, but you know – just never got around to it.

-- Joe

View KTMM (Krunkthemadman)'s profile

KTMM (Krunkthemadman)

1055 posts in 3217 days

#3 posted 11-05-2010 06:41 AM

Just got the saw aligned with less than a .001 difference at 0 degrees, and there is a .001 difference from front to back at 45 degrees. I should note that 24 oz beer cans and 8 oz soda cans have different thicknesses. I used pieces from both to get the rear mount shimmed.

-- Practice does not make perfect. Only perfect practice makes perfect. Vince Lombardi

View HokieMojo's profile


2104 posts in 3752 days

#4 posted 11-05-2010 07:15 PM

That is great shimming advice!! And to think I almost spend money on shim stock from McMaster Carr.

View William's profile


9949 posts in 2866 days

#5 posted 11-06-2010 04:21 AM

Hokie, I find it hard to believe they even make commercially available shim stock anymore. Almost anything can be used for shim stock. I haven’t had a need in quite a few years, but we used all kinds of stuff for shim stock lining up motor pulleys when I was doing industial mechanic works years ago. My memory has went into the toilet, but I used to be able to tell you the thickness exactly to the decimal point of aluminum cans from various producers, playing cards, banding straps, and even sardine can lids. We just cut the thicker shims out of various thickness iron. I thought I’d seen it all in the vast world of shims, until one day we moved a motor that hadn’t been moved since the 1940s and found it shimmed with a carefully cut scale from a very large fish. I think it came from a buffalo (fish common in the Mississippi river with large thick scales).


Have your say...

You must be signed in to post the comments.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics