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    <title>American elm from fallen tree to lumber at LumberJocks.com</title>
    <link>http://lumberjocks.com/Julian/blog</link>
    <pubDate>Tue, 09 Jun 2009 00:13:50 GMT</pubDate>
    <description>I have just been given a clear 8' long, 36+" diameter American elm tree trunk from my neighbor. The plan is to get it to a mill and then get the lumber in a safe place to air dry. I will be using this blog to keep you all updated to the progress.</description>
    <item>
      <title>Saving money by urban logging #3: 3300 boardfeet of reclaimed douglas fir!</title>
      <link>http://lumberjocks.com/Julian/blog/9113</link>
      <description>
        <![CDATA[<p>This isn&#8217;t technically urban logging, but it is dealing with reclaimed timbers.</p>


	<p>I just got off the phone with someone who is gutting a building in downtown Chicago. They are GIVING away the 100 year old joists for free!  I offered to take the 60-2 1/2&#8221;x12&#8221;x22&#8217; floor joists off their hands. There is another 120-1 1/2&#8221;x12&#8221;x24&#8217; joists that are available if I want them also. The 60 2 1/2&#8221; joists are 3300 board feet alone. I forsee a bunch of home improvement projects, and furniture being built in my near future. They will be available in a few weeks for me to come and get them.</p>]]>
      </description>
      <pubDate>Tue, 09 Jun 2009 00:13:50 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://lumberjocks.com/Julian/blog/9113</guid>
      <author>Julian</author>
      <dc:creator>Julian</dc:creator>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Furniture for the house #2: The new computer desk part2</title>
      <link>http://lumberjocks.com/Julian/blog/8557</link>
      <description>
        <![CDATA[<p>Well, I finally had some time to work on this project today. Since I just got my backsaw set up, I went to town cutting and chopping the dovetails for the drawers. I decided to change up the dovetail pattern for the large drawer sides, which really lets you know they are handcut, and not from a router and a jig. The new saw really helps out in making it a breeze to bang out these drawers. So far I have half of the dovetails done, and have some of the wood for the sides milled and aclimating in the shop.</p>


	<p>Here&#8217;s a pic of some of the drawers. They are just pressure fit, and not glued up.<br /><img src="http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f247/pdmfpres/1-8.jpg" alt="" /></p>]]>
      </description>
      <pubDate>Fri, 01 May 2009 01:53:28 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://lumberjocks.com/Julian/blog/8557</guid>
      <author>Julian</author>
      <dc:creator>Julian</dc:creator>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Getting back to the basics. Working with hand tools #4: Completed restoration on a 1917- 1918 Disston backsaw</title>
      <link>http://lumberjocks.com/Julian/blog/8556</link>
      <description>
        <![CDATA[<p>After waiting a few weeks for the 4&#8221; double extra slim files to arrive via snail mail, the wait is finally over. I went right out to the shop to start the tedious process of filing new teeth on the blade. This was my first attempt and I must say that I was surprised to get it right. I made a simple file holder and a jig to help cut even teeth. It worked just fine, and I now have a 15 ppi rip blade with a very minor set to it. It tracks perfect, and starts the cut easily thanks to the 8 degree tooth. To fit the handle I used the freshly sharpened blade to cut the slot for the blade before I set the teeth. This made sure that the slot would be tight fitting. All in all I had a lot of fun giving this old saw a new lease on life. There is a great perfonal satisfaction to taking an old tool and making it perform like new or better. I can now bang out a half blind dovetail in 8 minutes, thanks to the straight and easy cutting action of this saw.</p>


	<p><img src="http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f247/pdmfpres/6-1-1.jpg" alt="" /><br /><img src="http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f247/pdmfpres/7-1-1.jpg" alt="" /></p>]]>
      </description>
      <pubDate>Fri, 01 May 2009 01:43:25 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://lumberjocks.com/Julian/blog/8556</guid>
      <author>Julian</author>
      <dc:creator>Julian</dc:creator>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Furniture for the house #1: The new computer desk</title>
      <link>http://lumberjocks.com/Julian/blog/8484</link>
      <description>
        <![CDATA[<p>I have been waiting for the american elm that I had in the kiln to dry for a couple of months now. All of it has finally been pulled out and is stacked in the shop ready to become my new computer desk, among other things. So far I have the design figured out, and have started with the drawers. I know this is a bit backwards to the norm, but I wanted to get all the handcut dovetails out of the way, since it would take the most time out of any other part of the project.</p>


	<p>So anyways, I planed all the drawer stock, cut it to size, and have all the pins laid out ready to go. The dovetails are coming along, and with every one I do, I get better/faster at it. It&#8217;s really not that bad, and it sure is much quieter than using the router! The sides are maple, and the faces are elm. I hope to have the drawers done next week, since I have a bunch of other work to do this weekend, and early next week.<br /><img src="http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f247/pdmfpres/0-02.jpg" alt="" /><br /><img src="http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f247/pdmfpres/0-01.jpg" alt="" /></p>]]>
      </description>
      <pubDate>Fri, 24 Apr 2009 00:31:31 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://lumberjocks.com/Julian/blog/8484</guid>
      <author>Julian</author>
      <dc:creator>Julian</dc:creator>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>shop upgrades #4: Making the delta 6" jointer dust collection ACTUALLY work.</title>
      <link>http://lumberjocks.com/Julian/blog/8483</link>
      <description>
        <![CDATA[<p>I have dealt with the sub par dust collection opening of this jointer for over ten years now. Today I went out to the shop and said no longer will I deal with a clogged dust chute, and wood chips all over the shop. All I did to correct the problem was to box out the chute and make it 4&#8221; deep all the way to the bottom, then put the chut facing 90 degrees to the chute, which would solve the problem of chips collecting and clogging up the chute. Well, I just ran a ton of boards through the planer and it worked perfectly for the FIRST time in ten years. Why I never did this before, I will never know, but I do know this. Delta really dropped the ball on the dust collection on this one. <br /><img src="http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f247/pdmfpres/2-01.jpg" alt="" /><br /><img src="http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f247/pdmfpres/2-02.jpg" alt="" /></p>]]>
      </description>
      <pubDate>Fri, 24 Apr 2009 00:21:35 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://lumberjocks.com/Julian/blog/8483</guid>
      <author>Julian</author>
      <dc:creator>Julian</dc:creator>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Getting back to the basics. Working with hand tools #3: The latest score. Restoring a 1917-1918 Disston backsaw</title>
      <link>http://lumberjocks.com/Julian/blog/8351</link>
      <description>
        <![CDATA[<p>I have been using a Japanese pullsaw for a while and have decided to come back to the western style saw. I picked up this saw online for $30 from an antique dealer. It&#8217;s a Disston backsaw from 1917-1918 and is in great shape (no pitting, and straight blade) and is all original except for one of the sawnuts. The teeth were bad and all over the place so I ground them off and am getting ready to try my hand at cutting new ones as soon as the files and saw set arive.</p>


	<p>Not being able to leave well enough alone I am making a new handle out of some choice curly bubinga and have ordered a new set of sawnuts. The handle was a lot of fun to make, and was finished with BLO then a few coats of amber shellac, followed by my home made beeswax polish. If all goes well with the rebuild, I might try my hand at building a few saws from scratch.</p>


	<p>Here is the saw as it was shown on the website I bought it from.<br /><img src="http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f247/pdmfpres/1-5.jpg" alt="" /></p>


	<p>Here it is with the teeth ground off, and the sawnuts polished.<br /><img src="http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f247/pdmfpres/2-2.jpg" alt="" /><br /><img src="http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f247/pdmfpres/3-2.jpg" alt="" /></p>


	<p>Here is the new handle.<br /><img src="http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f247/pdmfpres/4-2.jpg" alt="" /><br /><img src="http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f247/pdmfpres/5-1.jpg" alt="" /></p>]]>
      </description>
      <pubDate>Wed, 15 Apr 2009 01:36:08 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://lumberjocks.com/Julian/blog/8351</guid>
      <author>Julian</author>
      <dc:creator>Julian</dc:creator>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Saving money by urban logging #2: The latest score</title>
      <link>http://lumberjocks.com/Julian/blog/8079</link>
      <description>
        <![CDATA[<p>About three weeks ago I scored a full truck load of mulberry from a tree that had been cut down last November. The tree was over 100 years old, and around 36&#8221; diameter and over 100&#8217; tall. Unfortunately the tree had been cut into chunks 24&#8221; and under. I got about 60 board feet of mostly quartersawn wood out of it that will most likely get used for bookmatched panels, boxes and picture frames for gifts for the family. It is really beautiful wood with a fleck pattern that reminds me of sycamore and maple. I resawed a piece of it and bookmatched it to see what it would look like. I&#8217;m really curious to see what time will do to it, since it will turn a dark brown/orange color like osage orange.<br /><img src="http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f247/pdmfpres/mulberry-2.jpg" alt="" /><br /><img src="http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f247/pdmfpres/urban-logging-001.jpg" alt="" /><br /><img src="http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f247/pdmfpres/urban-logging-003.jpg" alt="" /></p>


	<p>Last weekend I was at a relatives house cutting some trees down and scored some decent apple, and spalted birch logs. The smell of the freshly cut apple tree made my van smell like 50 pounds of over ripe apples. It was pretty wild how strong the smell was.</p>


	<p>The tree wasn&#8217;t too large, but I did get enough wood out of it for plenty of small projects like boxes and picture frames, not to mention plenty of wood for grilling with! There was also a dead standing birch tree has some wild colors in it. Unfortunately, there was barely any salveagable lumber in it, but what I got out of it is really nice looking. <br />APPLE<br /><img src="http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f247/pdmfpres/urban-logging-006.jpg" alt="" /></p>


	<p>SPALTED BIRCH<br /><img src="http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f247/pdmfpres/urban-logging-009.jpg" alt="" /></p>


	<p>I recently decided to try adding a dehumidier to the kiln and seal up the vents in an attempt to get the kiln to work faster. Well it works, but unfortunately, my dh is on its last limb. It sat in my shop for the last few years and got completely caked with sawdust, and is in bad shape. It worked for 3 days nonstop, then all of a sudden it decided on its own to run very intermitently. <br /><img src="http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f247/pdmfpres/urban-logging-004.jpg" alt="" /><br /><img src="http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f247/pdmfpres/urban-logging-007.jpg" alt="" /><br /><img src="http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f247/pdmfpres/urban-logging-008.jpg" alt="" /></p>]]>
      </description>
      <pubDate>Fri, 27 Mar 2009 23:21:58 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://lumberjocks.com/Julian/blog/8079</guid>
      <author>Julian</author>
      <dc:creator>Julian</dc:creator>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Getting back to the basics. Working with hand tools #2: Card scraper holder</title>
      <link>http://lumberjocks.com/Julian/blog/8038</link>
      <description>
        <![CDATA[<p>Here&#8217;s a quick and dirty card scraper holder I built out of maple. I burnt the hell out of my thumbs a few weeks ago after a long session with the scraper, so I felt the need to make one of these. I used a small diameter knob I had lying around to adjust the curve of the scraper. This scraper holder works great. I just wish I would have built ti BEFORE I got the giant blisters on my thumbs!<br /><img src="http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f247/pdmfpres/scraper-holder-1.jpg" alt="" /><br /><img src="http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f247/pdmfpres/scraper-holder-2.jpg" alt="" /><br /><img src="http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f247/pdmfpres/scraper-holder-3.jpg" alt="" /></p>]]>
      </description>
      <pubDate>Wed, 25 Mar 2009 02:42:07 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://lumberjocks.com/Julian/blog/8038</guid>
      <author>Julian</author>
      <dc:creator>Julian</dc:creator>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Getting back to the basics. Working with hand tools #1: My fist half blind dovetails. </title>
      <link>http://lumberjocks.com/Julian/blog/8037</link>
      <description>
        <![CDATA[<p>I&#8217;d first like to thank T chisel for his very informative video on making half blind dovetails. I watched it this morning and went right out to the shop ready to try out his method. It works very well! I succesfully made two sides in about one hour. It&#8217;s no speed record, but the joint is pretty tight. I&#8217;m hooked now, and will NOT be spending the cash for a Leigh jig anytime soon, now that I know I can handle making my own variable spaced dovetails.</p>


	<p>I made a little 1:6 shooting block for paring the joints to the final dimensions, and also made a dovetail marking jig. To hold down the boards I built a small hold down jig that just gets temporarily screwed to the workbench.<br />Armed with the jigs, dividers, marking guage and knife, 1/4&#8221; and 3/4&#8221; chisles, and a dovetail saw, I proceeded to chisel, chop, and cut my way to the finished product.</p>


	<p><img src="http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f247/pdmfpres/2-1.jpg" alt="" /><br /><img src="http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f247/pdmfpres/1-3.jpg" alt="" /><br /><img src="http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f247/pdmfpres/3-1.jpg" alt="" /></p>]]>
      </description>
      <pubDate>Wed, 25 Mar 2009 02:34:54 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://lumberjocks.com/Julian/blog/8037</guid>
      <author>Julian</author>
      <dc:creator>Julian</dc:creator>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>shop upgrades #3: Motor upgrade for the bandsaw</title>
      <link>http://lumberjocks.com/Julian/blog/7645</link>
      <description>
        <![CDATA[<p>I just picked up a 1 1/2 hp 1740 rpm motor from a friend today for $30. It&#8217;s a VERY clean old Doerr brand motor made in Cedarburg, Wisconsin. After rewiring it to run in reverse, I installed it into my rigid 14&#8221; bandsaw that has a 6&#8221; riserblock, and many carter upgrades.</p>


	<p>Let me say that the saw is a totally different beast now! With the underpowered stock 3/4 HP motor, a very slow feed rate was needed to resaw tall stock. Now it breezes through 10&#8221; rock maple without slowing down at all. I am very pleased with the results, and would suggest this to everyone as one of the most needed upgrades to the typical 14&#8221; Chinese made saws. Now if I would have just saved my money before I bought this 14&#8221; saw, and just bought a well built 17&#8221; saw. Oh well, it works well now, and I am happy with it.</p>]]>
      </description>
      <pubDate>Fri, 27 Feb 2009 03:01:55 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://lumberjocks.com/Julian/blog/7645</guid>
      <author>Julian</author>
      <dc:creator>Julian</dc:creator>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Solar kiln #5: 7-9% moisture content finally!!!</title>
      <link>http://lumberjocks.com/Julian/blog/7620</link>
      <description>
        <![CDATA[<p>I just recievede my new <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001DDWR72">Comprotec moisture meter</a> today and went right out to the kiln to try it out. This is my first moisture meter and I have to say that it seems very well built, especially for only costing around $70. It&#8217;s also made in Canada and has a three year warranty, and not made in China, which was another great feature&#8230;..... So back to the load in the kiln. All of the 4/4 boards are between 7-9%, with the 5/4 at 14%, and the thicker boards around 20%. So after around 100 days in the cold midwest winter the solar kiln has done its job. The 4/4 boards have virtually no end checks or warp/twist. I tried ripping a board to see if it would bind the blade due to internal stress and there was none.</p>


	<p>I planed down a test piece and tried out three finishes; tung oil, shellac, and linseed oil. The coloring in the wood is great. Now its time to get to work on making furniture out of it!<br /><img src="http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f247/pdmfpres/elm-001.jpg" title="elm" alt="elm" /></p>


	<p>Tung oil<br /><img src="http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f247/pdmfpres/tung-oil.jpg" alt="" /></p>


	<p>Shellac<br /><img src="http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f247/pdmfpres/shellac.jpg" alt="" /></p>


	<p>Linseed oil<br /><img src="http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f247/pdmfpres/linseed-oil.jpg" alt="" /></p>


	<p>Now to look onto the next load to go in. I will be cutting down a pesky silver maple in my front yard due to it destroying my sidewalk, driveway, AND sewer pipe. I am hoping to get 300 or more board feet out of it, which will be more than enough to build a new dining room table and chairs.</p>]]>
      </description>
      <pubDate>Wed, 25 Feb 2009 04:25:54 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://lumberjocks.com/Julian/blog/7620</guid>
      <author>Julian</author>
      <dc:creator>Julian</dc:creator>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Solar kiln #4: Almost dry</title>
      <link>http://lumberjocks.com/Julian/blog/7192</link>
      <description>
        <![CDATA[<p>The elm in the kiln should be ready to use in early spring, once I get a week of 70+ degree days. The elm is just under 20% MC. I just couldn&#8217;t wait to see what it was going to look like sanded down, so I took a piece out and planed/sanded it down, and put a coat of linseed oil on it. The colors mellowed out a bit from when it was just milled, but it still looks great IMO. The sample piece is 1&#8221;x16&#8221;x50&#8221;.<br /><img src="http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f247/pdmfpres/elm1.jpg" alt="" /><br /><img src="http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f247/pdmfpres/elm2.jpg" alt="" /></p>]]>
      </description>
      <pubDate>Fri, 23 Jan 2009 01:16:03 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://lumberjocks.com/Julian/blog/7192</guid>
      <author>Julian</author>
      <dc:creator>Julian</dc:creator>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>shop upgrades #2: Updated router and outfeed tables</title>
      <link>http://lumberjocks.com/Julian/blog/7157</link>
      <description>
        <![CDATA[<p>After finally finishing my latest <a href="http://lumberjocks.com/projects/13198">project</a>, I had some time to do some well overdue upgrades to my shop. I bought a rousseau router plate, and a Freud FT1700VCEK 2 1/4 hp router for the new router table I built. It replaced my old router setup that was built into my outfeed table, and over the last five years had sagged a bit. I laminated 2 layers of baltic birch 1/2&#8221; plywood for the router table, then added formica on top and bottom. Let me be the first to say that being able to use the table saw fence with the router is great. The extra surface for ripping wide boards is also nice.</p>


	<p>The outfeed table is 44&#8221;x48&#8221; wide, and the router table is 18&#8221;x24&#8221;.<br /><img src="http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f247/pdmfpres/table-saw1.jpg" alt="" /><br /><img src="http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f247/pdmfpres/table-saw2.jpg" alt="" /></p>]]>
      </description>
      <pubDate>Tue, 20 Jan 2009 04:42:20 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://lumberjocks.com/Julian/blog/7157</guid>
      <author>Julian</author>
      <dc:creator>Julian</dc:creator>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>shop upgrades #1: 6" bandsaw riser block kit</title>
      <link>http://lumberjocks.com/Julian/blog/6845</link>
      <description>
        <![CDATA[<p>After months of waiting, I finally pulled the trigger and bought the grizzly model h3051 extension block kit for my rigid bs1400 bandsaw. The instructions were easy to follow, and there were no surprises with the conversion. Let me first say that the reviews were correct in stating that the supplied blade is garbage. I ordered a few different 105&#8221; olson allpro blades and the 5/8&#8221; 3tpi blade slices through 10&#8221;oak like butter. I was concerned that the 3/4 hp motor would be underpowered for resawing. Well it resaws just fine, but the feed rates have to be slower. I would like to upgrade to a 1 1/2, or 2 hp motor in the future, but for now I am content with the performance.</p>


	<p>All in all the cost of the riser block kit was WELL worth the money. I now have the luxury of being able to bookmatch panels for doors, and tops.<br /><img src="http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f247/pdmfpres/riserblock-kit2.jpg" alt="" /></p>]]>
      </description>
      <pubDate>Mon, 29 Dec 2008 01:51:20 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://lumberjocks.com/Julian/blog/6845</guid>
      <author>Julian</author>
      <dc:creator>Julian</dc:creator>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Saving money by urban logging #1: Felled black walnut trees for the taking</title>
      <link>http://lumberjocks.com/Julian/blog/6330</link>
      <description>
        <![CDATA[<p>Recently, I have put out the word to friends about my plans to use lumber that would otherwise be cut into firewood. Well it has paid off already. A good friend of mine has found 2-24&#8221;x11&#8217; clear black walnut trees that have been cut down. The owner of them was going to cut them into firewood, till my buddy asked him if he&#8217;d be interested in parting with them for a small fee. To make a long story short, I will be picking the logs up for $100 for both! I figure that there&#8217;s just under 800bf of useable lumber, so figure 25 cents per foot for milling, and $60 for gas, and that adds up to $360 for 800 feet of beautiful black walnut lumber.</p>


	<p>Now I need to build a nice storage shed to house all of this lumber that is coming my way. My garage woodshop can&#8217;t possible hold all of the wood I will soon have. I already have a few hundred feet of 4/4 white oak, a few hundred feet of 8/4 african mahogany, plus a bunch of cherry, and quartersawn sycamore, and soon will have 250 feet of red elm to add to it.</p>


	<p>I&#8217;m really hooked on the idea of using locally harvested trees for lumber instead of them being wasted as firewood.</p>]]>
      </description>
      <pubDate>Mon, 03 Nov 2008 23:48:38 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://lumberjocks.com/Julian/blog/6330</guid>
      <author>Julian</author>
      <dc:creator>Julian</dc:creator>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Solar kiln #3: Almost complete!!</title>
      <link>http://lumberjocks.com/Julian/blog/6311</link>
      <description>
        <![CDATA[<p>I finally can see the end is near for this project. The top is now weathertight, with the exception of the 2nd layer of plastic that is to go on the bottom of the frame, and the baffle with a fan installed . The weather is starting to cool off, so I am not too worried about things going sour on me. Here are some pics of the kiln loaded with just over 200 bf of red elm..<br /><img src="http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f247/pdmfpres/solar%20kiln/solar-kiln2-001.jpg" alt="" /><br /><img src="http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f247/pdmfpres/solar%20kiln/solar-kiln2-002.jpg" alt="" /><br /><img src="http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f247/pdmfpres/solar%20kiln/solar-kiln2-003.jpg" alt="" /><br /><img src="http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f247/pdmfpres/solar%20kiln/solar-kiln2-004.jpg" alt="" /></p>]]>
      </description>
      <pubDate>Sat, 01 Nov 2008 21:43:47 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://lumberjocks.com/Julian/blog/6311</guid>
      <author>Julian</author>
      <dc:creator>Julian</dc:creator>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Solar kiln #2: loading the charge</title>
      <link>http://lumberjocks.com/Julian/blog/6303</link>
      <description>
        <![CDATA[<p>Well, the time has finally come to load the kiln. Now I am wishing that I would have made the kiln 5&#8217; wide. When I initially came up with the dimensions, I had only measured a few of the elm boards I had recently milled. Well, it turnd out that most of the boards are 19&#8221; wide, not 16&#8221; wide, so I couldn&#8217;t get two rows in the kiln. I got all but 4 boards to fit, but I am not sure how it will dry since the top board are only 2 inches from the roof. I painted some leftover plywood flat black for the collector, but the front of the boards is exposed to direct sunlight. I am guessing that there will need to be some sort of cover to block this from happening, because I surely don&#8217;t want case hardened lumber. I&#8217;ll get some pics of it tonight if I have enough time.</p>]]>
      </description>
      <pubDate>Fri, 31 Oct 2008 13:02:31 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://lumberjocks.com/Julian/blog/6303</guid>
      <author>Julian</author>
      <dc:creator>Julian</dc:creator>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Solar kiln #1: from design to construction </title>
      <link>http://lumberjocks.com/Julian/blog/6264</link>
      <description>
        <![CDATA[<p>A few years ago, I had the idea of building a small solar kiln. Well, life happened, and I didn&#8217;t have the time or money to build one. Then two weeks ago, my neighbor had a red elm cut down that had been struck by lighning earlier in the spring. I figured that a beautiful elm tree would never just fall into my lap, so I had the tree removal service roll the 8&#8217;, 30&#8221;+ main trunk into my front yard. After having it milled, I realized that I couldn&#8217;t wait an entire year to work with such a beautiful wood, so now the solar kiln is finally becoming a reality.</p>


	<p>Here&#8217;s a rough plan I designed in sketchup. It was actually the first thing I designed using sketchup, and I must say that the program is excellent! The kiln deck measures 4&#215;10. The rear wall is 5&#8217;, and the front wall is 1&#8217;, making the roof 45 degrees angled to the south. It will be just large enough to fit 200-250 bf of lumber, which is perfect for my small scale needs.<br /><img src="http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f247/pdmfpres/solar%20kiln/solar-kiln-web.jpg" alt="" /></p>


	<p>I used 11 7/8 lvl&#8217;s and I joists for the deck, and 2&#215;4&#8217;s for the walls. The whole thing was sheated with 3/8 plywood( on sale for only 8$ a sheet!), then insulated and plastic wrapped. The inside was caulked and so far has a coat of alumized roof coating. My plan is to have a double layer of plastic sheathing 3 1/2&#8221; apart for the top for now, and in the spring will use clear corrugated fiberglass. The top, which is not yet finished, will be on hinges in back, and lift up for access.  <br /><img src="http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f247/pdmfpres/solar%20kiln/solar-kiln-002-1.jpg" alt="" /><br /><img src="http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f247/pdmfpres/solar%20kiln/solar-kiln-003-1.jpg" alt="" /></p>


	<p>Hopefully, I will have this kiln completed and ready for a charge of red elm by the weekend.</p>]]>
      </description>
      <pubDate>Mon, 27 Oct 2008 22:55:52 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://lumberjocks.com/Julian/blog/6264</guid>
      <author>Julian</author>
      <dc:creator>Julian</dc:creator>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>The tree has fallen</title>
      <link>http://lumberjocks.com/Julian/blog/6188</link>
      <description>
        <![CDATA[<p>It&#8217;s now 7:00 pm, and the three service just left a perfect 36&#8221;D, 8&#8217; long American elm tree trunk in my yard.</p>


	<p>The plan is to get it in my truck this weekend and get it over to a local sawmill to have it milled, then get it into storage stacked on 1&#8221; stickers to air dry. This is my first attempt at doing this, so any tips would be greatful.</p>]]>
      </description>
      <pubDate>Fri, 17 Oct 2008 02:06:31 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://lumberjocks.com/Julian/blog/6188</guid>
      <author>Julian</author>
      <dc:creator>Julian</dc:creator>
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