At this point, this should be the last thing you need to glue to complete the construction phase of your bandsaw box.
A pretty straightforward step here that can be handled in a couple of different ways.
If you’re keeping your bandsaw box fairly rustic and basic in nature, then maybe you simply cut the back of the box off way back in Step 4 and left it at that.
Or, if you’re like me (meaning you tend to inherently make things more difficult on yourself,) you tend to sand things before glueing them together. Well, this presents a bit of a problem, unless you cut the back off in a perfectly straight line to start with. So, I sanded the back down to where I wanted it, but now it doesn’t mate up perfectly with the slightly not straight back from the original cutoff step.
I fixed this by carefully running the box through the tablesaw. The cut with the base side down was nice and simple, but when I ran the box through on it’s curved top, I took extra caution and tried to keep constant forward and downward pressure on the box so that it didn’t rock when running over the blade. That fixed it right there. Now everything was flush to my liking.
Got the Titebond III out one more time and put a thin bead around the carcass edge, spread it out evenly with a brush, mated the back up, used a couple of boards larger than the box for cauls and threw on the clamps:
After about 45-minutes, I went ahead and scraped as much of the glue as I could get to along the outside edge.
With the clamps and cauls in-place, I was obviously not able to scrape the inside squeezeout of the box. So after the clamps and cauls came off, I took a 1/4”-chisel and sort of popped most of it out, cleaning any little remaining bits up with an Xacto knife:
Normally your box is complete, or close to it at this stage, other than sanding and finishing. However, I had taken a little bit off here and there in messing with the drawer, so now the drawer sat inset if I pushed it all the way back. I toyed with leaving it like that, but in the end, thought that it looked better sitting flush with the front of the box.
In order to rectify this situation, I cut a couple of cork disks and glued them down with CA glue (super glue) at the back of the box to act as depth stops, as well as bumpers so that the drawer could not be slammed shut. Trying to clamp little cork disks at the bottom of the box was not going to be easy, so with the box laying on its back, I set the drawer down on top of the cork discs and carefully stacked a couple of bricks on top of the drawer to weight it down, using a piece of small scrap wood between the drawer front and the bricks:
After pulling the bricks off and removing the drawer, this is what I had:
Now when the drawer is pushed in, it sits between 1/32”-1/64” inset from the front.
-- Jonathan, Denver, CO "Constructive criticism is welcome and valued as it gives me new perspectives and helps me to advance as a woodworker."