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My First Bandsaw Box #10: Step 9: Glue on the Back of Your Box

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Blog entry by Jonathan posted 1339 days ago 1691 reads 0 times favorited 4 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 9: Step 8 (and 8.5): Glue On the Front and Back of Your Drawer(s)... (Cut and Install Drawer Pulls) Part 10 of My First Bandsaw Box series Part 11: Step 9.5: (Extra Step) Decorating the Front of Your Drawer »

At this point, this should be the last thing you need to glue to complete the construction phase of your bandsaw box.

A pretty straightforward step here that can be handled in a couple of different ways.

If you’re keeping your bandsaw box fairly rustic and basic in nature, then maybe you simply cut the back of the box off way back in Step 4 and left it at that.

Or, if you’re like me (meaning you tend to inherently make things more difficult on yourself,) you tend to sand things before glueing them together. Well, this presents a bit of a problem, unless you cut the back off in a perfectly straight line to start with. So, I sanded the back down to where I wanted it, but now it doesn’t mate up perfectly with the slightly not straight back from the original cutoff step.

I fixed this by carefully running the box through the tablesaw. The cut with the base side down was nice and simple, but when I ran the box through on it’s curved top, I took extra caution and tried to keep constant forward and downward pressure on the box so that it didn’t rock when running over the blade. That fixed it right there. Now everything was flush to my liking.

Got the Titebond III out one more time and put a thin bead around the carcass edge, spread it out evenly with a brush, mated the back up, used a couple of boards larger than the box for cauls and threw on the clamps:

After about 45-minutes, I went ahead and scraped as much of the glue as I could get to along the outside edge.

With the clamps and cauls in-place, I was obviously not able to scrape the inside squeezeout of the box. So after the clamps and cauls came off, I took a 1/4”-chisel and sort of popped most of it out, cleaning any little remaining bits up with an Xacto knife:

Normally your box is complete, or close to it at this stage, other than sanding and finishing. However, I had taken a little bit off here and there in messing with the drawer, so now the drawer sat inset if I pushed it all the way back. I toyed with leaving it like that, but in the end, thought that it looked better sitting flush with the front of the box.

In order to rectify this situation, I cut a couple of cork disks and glued them down with CA glue (super glue) at the back of the box to act as depth stops, as well as bumpers so that the drawer could not be slammed shut. Trying to clamp little cork disks at the bottom of the box was not going to be easy, so with the box laying on its back, I set the drawer down on top of the cork discs and carefully stacked a couple of bricks on top of the drawer to weight it down, using a piece of small scrap wood between the drawer front and the bricks:

After pulling the bricks off and removing the drawer, this is what I had:

Now when the drawer is pushed in, it sits between 1/32”-1/64” inset from the front.

-- Jonathan, Denver, CO "Constructive criticism is welcome and valued as it gives me new perspectives and helps me to advance as a woodworker."



4 comments so far

View degoose's profile

degoose

6993 posts in 1980 days


#1 posted 1338 days ago

Keep em coming!

-- Drink twice... and don't bother to cut... @ lazylarrywoodworks.com.au For lovers of all things timber...

View Jonathan's profile

Jonathan

2603 posts in 1676 days


#2 posted 1338 days ago

One more official post to go, although I’m going to do at least one more “extra step” blog on doing the front of the box. I think I might as do a conclusion blog with final thoughts about the project as well.

Hopefully I’ll get another one posted tomorrow on final sanding and applying a finish.

-- Jonathan, Denver, CO "Constructive criticism is welcome and valued as it gives me new perspectives and helps me to advance as a woodworker."

View Pete Jansen's profile

Pete Jansen

250 posts in 1547 days


#3 posted 1337 days ago

I found the same thing with my drawers, cork is a good idea and easier to fit than hardwood. I have to do that tomorrow when I fit the drawer depth on mine. Thanks for the great idea.

PJ

-- Lovin' sawdust in beautiful Fort Collins, Colorado

View Jonathan's profile

Jonathan

2603 posts in 1676 days


#4 posted 1336 days ago

I actually used the bottom section of a cork from a bottle of Moscato d’Asti since these corks are wider than a typical cork. you could also cut the bottoms off sparkling wine corks if you wanted a bit wider bumper.

-- Jonathan, Denver, CO "Constructive criticism is welcome and valued as it gives me new perspectives and helps me to advance as a woodworker."

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