My First Bandsaw Box #2: Step 1: Hunka' Hunka' Beetle Kill Pine

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Blog entry by Jonathan posted 12-11-2010 10:23 PM 2510 reads 1 time favorited 2 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 1: Overview Part 2 of My First Bandsaw Box series Part 3: Step 2: Design and Layout of Your Bandsaw Box »

As mentioned in the Overview blog post #1, you can’t make a bandsaw box without a hunk of wood to saw out, right?

You either need a big hunk of wood to start with, or you need to make your own big hunk of wood.

When choosing a hunk of wood, or glueing up a hunk of wood, you need to keep the size of your bandsaw in mind as well. If you have a standard 14” bandsaw, for instance, you need to limit all of your dimensions to 6” or less, since that’s typically the capacity of a 14” bandsaw. Whatever bandsaw you use for your box, make sure to know your maximum cutting capacity before .

I have a 14” Delta bandsaw, but I just installed a riser block kit on it, so my maximum sawing capability is about 12”, or a touch less with the Carter bearings or Stabilizer attached.

I already have an idea of exactly what I want this bandsaw box to look like when finished, so I have to make my own hunk of wood.

My idea for the finished box revolves around the Penn State Nittany Lion logo:

Keeping the logo in-mind, I’m going to use beetle kill pine for my hunk of wood since it is already a natural blue shade. I used a piece of tongue and groove beetle kill pine that I bought maybe 8-months ago. So, I had to rip off the edges to get rid of the tongue and groove sections. This was the other half of the board after cutting off the 7-pieces for the glue-up:

To achieve the thickness I want for the box, I had to glue 7-pieces of pine together.

I decided to blog about this after I began the project, so I missed taking a few pictures along the way. If you look close enough at the last photo above, you might be able to see that I numbered the pieces consecutively after I figured out which piece would go where. I also drew line-up marks from one piece to the next so I could keep everything where I wanted it once I started the glue-up. Sorry I didn’t get any good pictures of my labeling setup. I’d highly recommend this for any piece you’re making, whether it’s a bandsaw box, or a chair, or a cutting board, or anything else, for that matter. I also made sure to alternate the grain direction from one piece of pine to the next to help keep the piece from moving too much in any one direction. Sorry for the crude way of showing you this, but I basically glued them up in opposing directions, something like this: ( ) ( ) ( ) (

OK, the glue-up is now done. Onto Step 2: Design and Layout the shape of your bandsaw box.

-- Jonathan, Denver, CO "Constructive criticism is welcome and valued as it gives me new perspectives and helps me to advance as a woodworker."

2 comments so far

View degoose's profile


7193 posts in 2773 days

#1 posted 12-11-2010 10:32 PM

Very ambitious and I would expect nothing less.. good start.

-- Drink twice... and don't bother to cut... @ For lovers of all things timber...

View Jonathan's profile


2608 posts in 2469 days

#2 posted 12-11-2010 11:02 PM

Thanks Larry.

It’s not how you start, but how you finish, right? :-)

So far, I’ve only made one “I meant to do that.” (I’m trying to get away from calling anything a mistake, and more of an “intentional design modification”.) Nothing I couldn’t deal with. I’ll let you know shortly in the next couple of blogs what happened with that.

-- Jonathan, Denver, CO "Constructive criticism is welcome and valued as it gives me new perspectives and helps me to advance as a woodworker."

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