LumberJocks

Another "junk" Stanley #5 made usable.

  • Advertise with us
Blog entry by JohnnyB posted 303 days ago 893 reads 0 times favorited 9 comments Add to Favorites Watch

At my favorite local junktique store, I saw a badly rusted Stanley #5 jack plane. It looked complete and free of major chips or cracks except for the broken tote, and it had the hard rubber adjustment knob, which probably makes it a Type 17. I was tempted, but I didn’t really need another jack plane. “Need”, however, is such an indefinite concept. A few weeks later, I decided to check whether the plane was still in the store. It was, and I bought it for $10. Here are two pictures of it in as-bought condition.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/107170150@N03/10581970135/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/107170150@N03/10582045166/

Part of what attracted me to this plane was curiosity. What was under that layer of rust? Cracks? Horrible pitting? A good plane?

I scraped most of the rust off with a mill file ground on the end to be a scraper. This is how I have done other planes, and although it is not an elegant technique and does not result in a bright shiny plane, it does work. Turns out, under the layer of rust was a usable plane. I flattened the sole with abrasive belt material taped to my table saw top. The sole is flat even though it is stained and very lightly pitted. The wings are not flat, but I can live with that.

I didn’t notice until most the rust was removed that there were some dried paint spots. Why do “rescue” planes always have paint splatterings? I replaced the broken tote with a plastic tote left over from another plane. I sanded the tote to remove the slight molding flash and to dull the bright plasticy finish. The blade has a number (143) stamped on it that might indicate that the plane came from a school or some such. There is some pitting on the back of the blade that I dealt with by honing a slight back bevel.

The plane works well, and it would work better with a replacement iron, but c’mon, it’s a $10 plane. As for the “need” thing, I have observed that often you don’t need a tool until you need it, and when you need it, it’s nice to have it. Here are pictures of the cleaned up plane.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/107170150@N03/10581997955/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/107170150@N03/10582253913/

-- JohnnyB - - Sometimes determination can substitute for skill.



9 comments so far

View WayneC's profile

WayneC

12265 posts in 2731 days


#1 posted 303 days ago

Well done.

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

View ksSlim's profile

ksSlim

977 posts in 1523 days


#2 posted 303 days ago

You saved another one.

-- Sawdust and shavings are therapeutic

View SuperCubber's profile (online now)

SuperCubber

251 posts in 918 days


#3 posted 303 days ago

Great job! I need to find a junktique around here!

View Don W's profile

Don W

14888 posts in 1201 days


#4 posted 303 days ago

a sweet save

-- Master hand plane hoarder. - http://timetestedtools.com

View BrandonGonzales's profile

BrandonGonzales

8 posts in 501 days


#5 posted 302 days ago

Nice save on the plane! Also from what I have read, the number stamped on your blade is a date stamp. First number is the quarter, last two are the year. So yours is the first quarter of 1943.

View JohnnyB's profile

JohnnyB

84 posts in 1023 days


#6 posted 302 days ago

Thanks for the clarification, Brandon. I have not seen this before. This date would be consistent with the period that the hard rubber adjustment knob was used.

-- JohnnyB - - Sometimes determination can substitute for skill.

View BrandonGonzales's profile

BrandonGonzales

8 posts in 501 days


#7 posted 302 days ago

You’re welcome. Here’s a link to some more info from a Canadian forum, but I know I have seen that mentioned other places online too. LINK

View JohnnyB's profile

JohnnyB

84 posts in 1023 days


#8 posted 294 days ago

Thanks for the link to the plane iron dating. I checked my other old Stanleys, and this is the only one with the date stamp. Thanks also for the introduction to the Canadian Woodworking Magazine website.

-- JohnnyB - - Sometimes determination can substitute for skill.

View bons's profile

bons

24 posts in 572 days


#9 posted 294 days ago

I received my new Grizzly 1023 RLXW a couple of weeks ago. I had to hire a couple of movers (I am 62) to get it into my basement through the back basement door entrance. My house sits on a hill and it took all 3 of us to get it situated as we had to get the saw down a steep hill without losing control. I travel a lot so I really have not started the process of putting the saw together. There is one problem with the saw though. The small right hand door will not close properly. The mechanism (latch) will not stay fastened together when closed. It just pops right out. The door seems awful stiff in the hinge area. Grizzly is sending me a new door. Any thoughts or experience with this phenomena on a new Grizzly saw out there. I am fearful is not a latch issue but entire door is misaligned from the factory or something more serious?

Have your say...

You must be signed in to post the comments.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

GardenTenders.com :: gardening showcase