Got busy with a few other things but I’ve finally got back to putting the finishing touches on the workstation.
I routed the recess for my router plate, making it the right size for the existing plate I had made out of 3/8” Lexan. This is to use with a DeWalt DW625 router. It is stiff enough to hold the router securely for what I do with it. Here’s a picture of the setup for routing the recess.
I used pieces of 3/4” MDF and stuck them to the table with double sided tape snug against the router plate with cardboard shims on two sides. The shims made the recess about .020” larger than the plate to make it possible to lift the plate in and out. The suction cup in the photo was used to lift the plate out of the setup before I routed the recess.
I routed the recess with a top bearing flush trimming bit 3/4” in diameter with a 1” cutting length. The 3/4” MDF boards and the 3/8” depth of the recess made this bit the most suitable for the job.
After routing around the inside of the MDF setup I cut out the waste with a saber saw. This picture shows the result.
There are two screw holes in the router plate for 1/4” flathead screws. These allow the plate to be held in position with two through holes drilled in the corners of the recess. Using screws, flat washers and wingnuts makes the setup quite secure. I didn’t like the way the saber saw cuts looked, being somewhat wavy. No effect on the utility of the table but it was aesthetically displeasing. I figured there were two choices. I could spend a lot of time and effort with a rasp or a sander to straighten the cuts or I could order an opaque router plate from Woodpecker’s to hide them. I ordered the plate from Woodpecker’s. I chose their phenolic plate with 3 interchangeable inserts for about $60 as I recall. It has a really nice feature in that two sides have adjustable clearance using ball bearings and adjustment screws – their website shows this better than I can here. Once adjusted correctly the plate sits flush and wobble free without using screws through the table, making bit changes quicker. Here’s a pic of the plate installed with a Rockler dust port set up with a flush trimming bit. The Rockler port fits without modification. There are screw holes in the plate that the slots in the port line up with. I hadn’t put the screws in yet when I took the picture. Note that the Woodpecker’s plate has large corner radii than my original home made one so there are gaps in the corners. I don’t think I’ll do anything about these as they don’t affect the function.
I still needed to fill the gap behind the saw blade that allows clearance when the blade is tilted. The waste piece from the router recess was almost big enough to fit but for the holes I had drilled as starter holes for the saber saw. I had drilled four holes and could work around three of them, leaving a part of the fourth one in the finished block. I decided to use the piece anyway and claim that the partial hole was for a finger grip. Here’s a picture of the waste piece set in place over the gap.
And here’s one of the finished block in place after all the trimming and fitting. I glued scrap pieces of laminate to the long sides to make it fit better and maybe last longer.
Guess now I no longer have an excuse for putting off the kitchen face lift. Plan is to make new cabinet doors and drawers, replace the countertops, new hardware, etc. The hardest part is getting started of course – it means cleaning out fifteen years of “stuff” from the cabinets and finding some place to put it. Most will go right in the trash but there is SOME good stuff in there.
Thanks for watching, stay tuned.