Princess Daybed for Daughter

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Blog series by JohnMcClure updated 07-21-2018 01:09 PM 7 parts 2944 reads 13 comments total

Part 1: Design and Planning

07-03-2018 01:51 AM by JohnMcClure | 3 comments »

My wife and I will be bringing home our daughter in a few weeks. It’s time to get serious about her bedroom, so this blog is a chance for me to keep track of my thoughts during the design and building of the bed, and to ask you all for your valuable input.Wife wants a fancy bed, conceptually similar to this:But she wants it to be a daybed. I came up with this:Which is a terrible picture of an awful sketch I made. It’s going to be a twin, which gives mattress dimensions about 75...

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Part 2: Drafting my plans - taking shape!

07-03-2018 03:47 PM by JohnMcClure | 8 comments »

Moving right along: I’ve drawn my vision in AutoCAD. I made a lot of snap judgments about dimensions and proportions, which may need to be revised. I chose an overall height of 48”, which may be too high. Mattress height of 20”, with 12.25” clearance underneath – I think that’s about right. 3×3 (actual) post size. 4” wide and 1.5” thick for the bottom rails, except the front rail which will be only 0.75” thick (less li...

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Part 3: Stock prep and mortising

07-10-2018 12:24 PM by JohnMcClure | 0 comments »

I picked up two douglas fir 4×4s and two SYP 2×10s. One of those 2×10s contained three bottom rails (long back rail, two short side rails). The front rail is going to be thinner, 3/4”, to minimize shin-smashing risk; so it should be hardwood.How about this, from the pile under the tarp?You’ll see.Once that’s planed down and the rotten section trimmed out, it looks like this:Now I have a stack of boards cut to rough length, a bit overlong. It’s not the wh...

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Part 4: Tenons!

07-11-2018 12:56 AM by JohnMcClure | 1 comment »

First, those 3/4” mortises I’d saved for last:Came out much cleaner and easier than the 1/2”. The mortise is wide enough to vacuum chips out easily. Now time for tenons on the straight rails. The easiest ones will be on the front rail, since it is full-width and has no cheeks, just small shoulders. Perfect fit: The 1/2” holes are empty right now, but I’ll use oak dowels to pin this joint together and be able to disassemble it for moving. I like the look of ...

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Part 5: Cutting Curves and Dresser Delays

07-15-2018 12:31 PM by JohnMcClure | 0 comments »

Progress has been slow lately, because of other demands on my time. All I’ve done for the bed the last few days is cut out the curved rails on the bandsaw, and rough-cut the tenons. The short rails have a pretty aggressive curve, so I needed wider than 1×6 stock. I ended up jointing and gluing two 1×6s to make a wide enough board, then making a lot of funny-shaped scraps.Today I hope to fit the tenons to their mortises, then cut grooves for the panels in the rails, then cut ou...

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Part 6: Getting groovy; cutting out panels; some shaping; and a catastrophe

07-16-2018 02:16 AM by JohnMcClure | 1 comment »

First thing: cleaned up and fitted the tenons on the curved rails. Test-fit the frame: Now it’s time to put panels in those frames. Cutting grooves into the curved rails was a problem I’ve been thinking about since early in the design. I had thought about using a trim router on a purpose-made baseplate to ride the curves, but fortunately I had a rabetting bit that I could use as a slot cutter. Bearing guided – made this very easy on both the straight and curved rails.I di...

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Part 7: Shaping and Glueup

07-21-2018 01:09 PM by JohnMcClure | 0 comments »

When we left off, everything fit together but the legs were still blocky and square, and overly long: I decided to taper the legs toward the outside corner, bringing the foot down from 3” to 2” square, and chamfer the inside corner of each post.Rough out the taper on the bandsaw: Then plane down to the line: Finished taper: All that planing makes a pile of shavings: Crosscut the posts to length too. Cut them 3/4” above the top of the mortise. Time now to glue ...

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